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Overheating 1969 1500SP... please help... I'm out of options
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jhicken
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PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2012 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How are you taking temp readings? Are you just figuring it's hot because the oil pressure light is coming on at idle? Put a gauge on it and see what the actual temp is. What color are you plugs? If they are white you could be lean which would raise your temps.

-jeffrey
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Cadaver
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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 7:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

so many things to check
seems you have dont them all now.... sorry for your grief !!!

if the motor overheats
36 ways to overheat a bug motor, tins are 1


the riser just must work. on a stock single carb motor.
if you run 1600 under SP tins. it might work too.
so long as you dont flog it too hard up hill.
or lug the the motor badly.
that 1600 jug will have same CR if your builder was not FUNKY.

once the disty works right and using a stock disty with matching carb
is one easy path.
dont run 009 unless Glenn tunes it for you, better is stock are SVDA setup.
(or you plot the curve of yours and post it 900 to 3500 rpm every 500)



after that , then riser fixes, and last carb tuning
the riser my be so hot you cant touch it.
your carb may have issues.... some have 10 issues,
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Last edited by Cadaver on Sun Jun 10, 2012 9:40 am; edited 3 times in total
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Alpha_Maverick
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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 7:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I double checked the dizzy over the last few days. It works perfectly, according to the oldvolkshome description, and the carb ports are clear. I triple checked it, by using a timing light and vacuum pump after marking the crank pulley. Dizzy is good. I then "Teed" a vacuum line into the distributor vacuum line, and ran it up to the passenger seat. I get 5"Hg during part-throttle, and just over 3"Hg at WOT just before I hit the rev-limit. That's working, too.

No air leaks. I checked with carb cleaner spray.

All I've got left is the heat riser. Hope it works.
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Cadaver
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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GOOD,

that leaves
RISER
and CARB tuning.....
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Last edited by Cadaver on Thu May 31, 2012 10:10 am; edited 1 time in total
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danielsan
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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My guesses.

1. You need a doghouse shroud, fan and cooler. Sounds like you are using the 1500 cooling system. The 1500 set up isn't designed to take the heat that the 1600 produces at highway speeds. It really didn't take care of the 1500 very well . . . .

2. The builder might have just slapped on some cylinders without measuring deck height and you might have either too much deck or one cylinder way off.

Its not what you want to do but you can change the cooing system and measure the deck in a weekend.

http://www.aircooledtech.com/deck_height/

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Deck-Height-Measuring-Tool-Deluxe-p/deck-height-tool.htm
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Cadaver
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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i think the 1500 tins will work so long as he dont flog it up hill loaded.
no power pulleys allowed. just easy normal driving...

engine to tin rubbers in place front and rear. no missing tins.
thermostat works.
Missing tins?( even the sled tins make the STAT work on the right)

one guy found a SP fan in a DP housing. it overheated.

so closed inspections are important. (dont feel bad the tins dont just yell at you and say, Im the wrong tin... its a humbling experience....)
close photos posted though will get fast responses here with the very sharp eyes, here.. im sure.
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Alpha_Maverick
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well...
After a month-long ordeal trying to get an intake manifold that fits, seals, and has a clear heat riser...


The engine spun a bearing. Now I tear her down and do an autopsy, and rebuild whatever's left.
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Cadaver
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 6:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you overheated it, and spun a bearing (my bad for not telling you to run mobil one , until the overheat was solved.. m1 runs up to 300F (tested too)
check the deck height and CR test. do that make sure
the CR is stock. or it will make lots more heat.
CR makes more power (matching fuel octane) but makes more heat.


i highly recommend reading
2 books
Tom wilsons
and Bill fishers.

see them here. under BOOKS

http://ac-vw-remove.com/info.html

the bug is a light car but of you have increased displacement or CR or both.
then it will make more heat when flogged hard. (not driving normally)
normal driving makes normal heat.
the stock cooling system has extra cooling overhead, not as much as a
DOG house, but does.
pay close attention to the CR
my 1600 does (on a box stock 1500 block 68 ) does not over heat .
but i dont drive it over 60. (i never drive relics of that, and for sure on super hard to find SP heads... im crazy for trying to run SP heads.. never again. )
i'd not run any relic with out gauges.. its way too old for running blind.

I have tach,oil pressure, oil temp. and volts, soon to have CHT,
CHT is hard to fit up , (easy with motor out)

at the very least pressure and oil temp,, are very helpful.

next time,, 044 heads, and full dog house. and not look back....
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Alpha_Maverick
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually, no. The overheating was a symptom, not the cause. The cause was excessive clearance between the case and oil pump. At high speed, the left valve cover collects oil, and the reduction in oil in the sump caused the pump to suck air, resulting in reduced lubrication, and hot oil. The reduced lubrication killed the bearing, while the hot oil turned on the light.

Now I build a new engine, and take every precaution and cooling trick I can find. (windage tray, windage pushrod tubes, o-ringed oil pump, doghouse cooling system, bob hoover mods, etc.)

Oh, and my compression ratio was fine.
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Cadaver
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

as you know:
the engine is both air cooled and oil cooled.
course running it dry, is a first order problem.
some serious engine oiling problems you have.
you saw pressure drops in turns?

you must be racing it, to collect oil in the VC.
ouch. pulling some big time lateral "G" are you?

that pump to casing deal is an interference fit.
it must not suck air on the suction side
or blow it out, the other side. (a full flow kit solves the pressure side.)
getting that suction side sealed up, is a more complex matter.

running full flow? filter?, that is one more liter of oil in the loop.
GBE pump must be installed on a open case, it mangles the seal, going in.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5565157


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Last edited by Cadaver on Fri Jul 20, 2012 4:01 am; edited 1 time in total
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Alpha_Maverick
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's -supposed- to be... it wasn't. I just tore the engine down.
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