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Flywheel Endplay
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orangesuper
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 6:40 pm    Post subject: Flywheel Endplay Reply with quote

Stupid question but here goes anyway. I am in the process of checking flywheel endplay if I bolt up the flywheel and check end play I notice that I can push on the flywheel and the pulley and get the flywheel to move back and forth .004" perfectly to spec. However this is where it settles after pushing it in either direction. If I push harder on the pulley I can get it to go another .002" but when I let go it springs back to .004". If I use my hand to "clamp" between the flywheel and bell housing I can get another .004" but as soon as I let go it springs back to spec. Is this normal not sure where the flex comes from?

Also I noticed the bugpack flywheel gasket goes on very tight you have to force it over the dowel pins and then force the flywheel a bit to get it to start over the gasket. Is this normal?
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Glenn73
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the gland nut fully torqued?
It could possibly be your pressing out oil from between the shims and crank
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orangesuper
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I didn't oil the shims for setting the end play. The gland nut is as tight as I can get it on the stand before the stand starts rotating but without a torque wrench that goes that high I think it's around 200 ft/lbs.
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bsairhead
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 6:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have a O-ringed fly-wheel do not use the gasket, if it does not, never mind.
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orangesuper
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is an oring flywheel but I don't have an oring in it yet since I am only testing endplay. Without the gasket I end up with too much end play even with the thickest 3 shims in my kit. The shims I have run .009-.015 are there thicker shims? Can I run 4?
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

try 3 .015's, (9+11+15 = 35, 3x15=45)get the shims you need, 4 would be the most I would want to use, but I only use 3. And torque the flywheel to atleast 400 even for checking.dont use the gaskets unless you have to. there is deflection in just about everything, if the shims were not perfectly flat they will spring back.I check it with a light pressure from my fingers, spes is about .0027-.005somethen.I usualy stay around .0035, but have done .003&.004.
does the thrust bearing fit tight in the case?if the case was linebored and the thrust either not cut or cut off axis it can/will also cause it to spring back.even a burr on some part can cause it.and the cam gear could probably cause it with the helical gears if you have spring pressure on the cam.. then there is the quality of bearings we have today, they may not be perfectly flat or cut at the right angle.I would say if you have .004 and that much spring set it to .003" and let the big dog eat.and dont forget to oil them.and make sure there isant any scratches or burrs on the end of the flywheel that will grab the shims.(Ive seen guys lay the flywheel on the ground /concreat floor and effup the end of it and wipe it clean and stick it on.I always use a serface plate(somethen flat)and some .600-800 grit and have a few go rounds to be sure there isant any grabbers.and while your there check for burrs on the seal serface too.
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modok
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 12:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

orangesuper wrote:
It is an oring flywheel but I don't have an oring in it yet since I am only testing endplay. Without the gasket I end up with too much end play even with the thickest 3 shims in my kit. The shims I have run .009-.015 are there thicker shims? Can I run 4?


huh? a gasket between crank and flywheel give MORE end play........right?

Lose the gasket
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