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Add caster on 75 thing?
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csterl
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 6:26 pm    Post subject: Add caster on 75 thing? Reply with quote

I have been working on the front suspension on a 75 (mexican) thing. All components with the exception of the ball joints were good. I replaced all 4 ball joints and, after alignment, it still pulls to the right. In talking to the alignment technician, he told me that both sides needed an additional 1 degree +/- caster and it was as close as he could get it with the cams on the upper joints. I know the joints have alignment slots on them; do the joints have an offset built into them and could the joints be reinstalled offsetting the slots to possibly gain a little camber? Is there any other way to add camber? Ride height appears to be at or just slightly below stock.
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Shadd
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey csterl, welcome to the samba,

I believe that you can get some additional caster by adding shims between the beam and the lower mounting point on the frame head. (at least this is true for king/link pin beams)
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 10:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have been thinking that mine would steer a bit better with more caster as it tends to wander a bit. Anyone have a feel for what the maximum amount of shimming that can reasonably be added is? Don't have enough adjustment to get the camber to come into spec on one side, but can't see that anything is bent or made wrong. Any ideas here would be great as well.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 4:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
Have been thinking that mine would steer a bit better with more caster as it tends to wander a bit. Anyone have a feel for what the maximum amount of shimming that can reasonably be added is? Don't have enough adjustment to get the camber to come into spec on one side, but can't see that anything is bent or made wrong. Any ideas here would be great as well.


You can check for bend pretty easily (well as quick and easy as removing all of the brake parts from the spindle is). The factory had a tool for checking for spindle bend, but also stated that it can be done with a straight edge and a caliper. You put the straight edge on the backing plate mounting surface of the spindle (hence why the brakes have to come completely off) and measure the distance from the spindle to the straight edge all the way around (just below the threads and at least three places). If the difference between all of the measurements varies more than 0.25mm, it needs to be replaced.

If you remove the tie rod at the same time, you can also check the steering arm for bend. Straight edge on the backing plate surface to the outer edge of the tie rod hole should be 117.75mm to 118.25mm.
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citroen
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 6:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i think this will fix your problems they are from bugpack. Caster shims, longer bolts and camber adjusters. They fixed mine.

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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 7:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will have to check the spindles for straightness at some point, but would have thought the drum would rub against the backing plate if the spindle were bent much. Crying or Very sad

I have heard about eccentrics with more offset, but can Bug eccentrics be used on a Thing? I thought the Thing ball joints used larger studs.
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74 Thing
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those eccentrics will not fit a 181 ball joint.

Those caster shims will though-get a set and loosen the 4 front beam bolts and slide the two shims between the lower beam and the frame then retorque.
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drscope
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you need to find a better front end alignment technician who doesn't belive close is good enough!

Probably one of the eccentrics is stuck and he can't get it to turn.



Why is this post in the split beetle forum?
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

drscope wrote:
I think you need to find a better front end alignment technician who doesn't belive close is good enough!

Probably one of the eccentrics is stuck and he can't get it to turn.


Why would anyone use an "alignment technician" to align an ACVW front end? You just need a dead level piece of concrete to work on, a torpedo level and a tape measure. I can check my alignment and have it reset in less time than it would take me to drive to an alignment shop.



Quote:
Why is this post in the split beetle forum?


Obviously someone's alignment is off Crying or Very sad Crying or Very sad Crying or Very sad

.
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citroen
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry i have a thing axle with bug arms and ball joint so the adjuster work on mine. Correct the caster shims will work on bug or things.
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Ian Epperson
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I put a set of castor shims on my Thing a couple years back - I highly recommend them as it makes freeway driving much more stable.

For most other ball joint front ends, they're an easy install. However, for a Thing, you've got to either eliminate the side brackets for the front beam or oval out the holes to allow you to bolt them in place with the modified castor.

I removed the side brackets, installed the shims, loosely bolted in the side brackets for the holes that fit and used the new offset hole to mark the new shape of the bracket hole, removed the brackets, used my neighbor's mill to reshape the holes, reinstalled the brackets.
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csterl
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 4:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

drscope wrote:
I think you need to find a better front end alignment technician who doesn't belive close is good enough!

Probably one of the eccentrics is stuck and he can't get it to turn.



Why is this post in the split beetle forum?


Sorry, first post and am having a hard time getting anything it to post at all. Is there a button to respond somewhere I don't see?

Thanks for the responses. I will get a set of shims and see if it gets it to not pull.
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csterl
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

csterl wrote:
drscope wrote:
I think you need to find a better front end alignment technician who doesn't belive close is good enough!

Probably one of the eccentrics is stuck and he can't get it to turn.



Why is this post in the split beetle forum?


Sorry, first post and am having a hard time getting anything it to post at all. Is there a button to respond somewhere I don't see?

Thanks for the responses. I will get a set of shims and see if it gets it to not pull.


The eccentrics were loose, as I deliberately left them loose before taking it to the tech. He said it was as close as he could get it but not in spec. He's usually really good at even hard to align vehicles, but he is not familiar with ball joint vw's. No-one around here is.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ian Epperson wrote:
I put a set of castor shims on my Thing a couple years back - I highly recommend them as it makes freeway driving much more stable.

For most other ball joint front ends, they're an easy install. However, for a Thing, you've got to either eliminate the side brackets for the front beam or oval out the holes to allow you to bolt them in place with the modified castor.

I removed the side brackets, installed the shims, loosely bolted in the side brackets for the holes that fit and used the new offset hole to mark the new shape of the bracket hole, removed the brackets, used my neighbor's mill to reshape the holes, reinstalled the brackets.


Thanks for the advice. Sounds like it is worth pursuing. Where your shims made from aluminium or where they steel.
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Ian Epperson
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aluminum.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 12:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ian Epperson wrote:
Aluminum.
How much caster did your shim set add? Do you think the same, or more, or less would be better?
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74 Thing
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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 8:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Start with one set of shims (you do not need longer beam bolts for these)-if you need another set you can always add it. It is probably the best cheap item to add to your car.

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Caster-Right-Shim-Kit-Caster-Shims-Pair-p/6611-10.htm
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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
Ian Epperson wrote:
Aluminum.
How much caster did your shim set add? Do you think the same, or more, or less would be better?
I'm not exactly sure. More would, I think, require longer bolts. I don't think it needs any more than a single shim. Maybe I'd feel different if I were to go drag racing or lowering it.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 11:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just presuming that the shims are about 3/16 thick that would give just shy of 2° of extra caster. Since I want to replace the body mounts above the front axle assembly, I might as well add the shims at the same time.
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