Joined: March 23, 2008 Posts: 74 Location: portland,oregon
Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 2:24 pm Post subject: tightening the bolts on the spindle of my super
I've just repacked the front wheels of my 71 type1. In the older wheels you were supposed to gently tighten the nut while turning the wheels to seat the bearings. then snug them and reverse that a somewhat. But the new style has an allen nut and a different tightness intended. The idiot book gives a description that feels vague to me. Do I want to tighten and then reverse just enough to free the washer underneath to a sideways push with a flat blade screwdriver? I'm unclear. _________________ yes... I'm the one who destroyed this fine, vintage, automoble...
Joined: February 07, 2001 Posts: 5407 Location: Auburn WA
Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 2:55 pm Post subject:
I tighten the nut(well terning the wheel) tell the wheel no-longer terns freely, then back it off just to the point that it can spin, tighten the allen bolt and go for A drive, then do it agen.. this way has always worked for me.. _________________ 1302s sunroof..
TimsACVW 1600cc motor. Glenn ring 010. full toplineparts.com suspension. factory front disk brakes. Tram type-3 rear brakes. Hurst shifter. empi-8's. low-back's. tons of mods!
Big thanks to my friends Jes67 & Keoki
Joined: January 07, 2007 Posts: 6244 Location: N.W. Phoenix
Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 3:05 pm Post subject:
No - the bearing then is to tight- always test the bearing by grabbing the tire (install it) and make sure that you can feel some distance.
Bearings are never to be run tight and with the new nuts many are doing this.
The bearing has to have some area so that it can carry the grease and with this method the bearing surfaces are never rubbing at all times during its travel.
Jerry _________________ Experience always triumphs over hearsay and You get to select which theory to believe
Joined: March 23, 2008 Posts: 74 Location: portland,oregon
Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 3:20 pm Post subject:
I remember the old wheels always felt a little loose to me back in the day but that's what they wanted. So with the new allen nuts, the method I first described (just loose enough to budge the washer sideways under the nut) is too tight. So a little looser than that but tighter than the old style? My method came from the "idiot book" which used to be decisive on such things. I think the rewrites have deluded the book I remember from high school... Where's John Muir when you need him? _________________ yes... I'm the one who destroyed this fine, vintage, automoble...
Joined: January 07, 2007 Posts: 6244 Location: N.W. Phoenix
Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 3:35 pm Post subject:
you have to have some left and right - (very small) amount of play when wiggling the wheel _________________ Experience always triumphs over hearsay and You get to select which theory to believe
the book is clear.
as is the spec.
how you do it is your business....
but for $10 lousy bucks you can do it right. and not have to beg
online for , how much is right by feel....... wow....!
Last edited by schadenfreude on Fri Apr 20, 2012 7:05 am; edited 2 times in total
Joined: February 07, 2001 Posts: 5407 Location: Auburn WA
Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 4:10 pm Post subject:
JerryMCarter1 wrote:
vw hank knows much more that most posters but I think he stands corrected on this one!
Jerry
Did you read my hole post? , I said to back it off tell the wheel can spin ,, from my experience, at the point you can spin the wheel freely you well have A small amount of side to side play,, if that side to side play was tightened to "0" there would be too much friction for the wheel to freely spin..
Every one has there own way of doing things, the most important thing is to re-cheek after A drive cents the bearing may sedle in and loosen up some.. _________________ 1302s sunroof..
TimsACVW 1600cc motor. Glenn ring 010. full toplineparts.com suspension. factory front disk brakes. Tram type-3 rear brakes. Hurst shifter. empi-8's. low-back's. tons of mods!
Big thanks to my friends Jes67 & Keoki
Joined: February 07, 2001 Posts: 5407 Location: Auburn WA
Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 4:30 pm Post subject:
Jerry, got your PM and replied.. I think we are arguing potato/potato were thing the same thing just saying it differently
"0" side play is bad!!! we can all agre on that _________________ 1302s sunroof..
TimsACVW 1600cc motor. Glenn ring 010. full toplineparts.com suspension. factory front disk brakes. Tram type-3 rear brakes. Hurst shifter. empi-8's. low-back's. tons of mods!
Big thanks to my friends Jes67 & Keoki
Joined: January 08, 2010 Posts: 1010 Location: Gladstone, Ore
Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 5:04 pm Post subject:
I used to use the Muir move the washer method, it's always a question of how much force to move the washer etc, the above wiggle the wheel method seems more secure.
Joined: January 07, 2007 Posts: 6244 Location: N.W. Phoenix
Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 6:09 pm Post subject:
right at 20 mins 25 seconds he does the last test - by two hands on the wheel and moving it left to right . _________________ Experience always triumphs over hearsay and You get to select which theory to believe
that is correct the larger bearings do have a different spec in 1950
but they all do. the bearing makers has a datasheet, ever read one.
and learn why there is play.
and why too much or why too tight (interference ) causes rapid fail.
i can link you to these pages and to the tests.
but you know it all. so you can find it easy.
Last edited by schadenfreude on Fri Apr 20, 2012 7:21 am; edited 2 times in total
Joined: January 07, 2007 Posts: 6244 Location: N.W. Phoenix
Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2012 1:05 pm Post subject:
No I have a whole box full of them – I belong to a metal club with 750 members- we got it all!
No person uses them to set bearings-
When I said 1950 -- back then the 1/4 was the standard because the bearings were built will more tolerances- I only packed a few hundred cars .
They made roller bearings in 1910 for gods sake
Each to his own -- the next time you go to a mechanics shop or to a dealership ask them if they set the bearings with a dial indicator and they will laugh you out of the shop !
Jerry _________________ Experience always triumphs over hearsay and You get to select which theory to believe
Joined: February 07, 2001 Posts: 5407 Location: Auburn WA
Posted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 1:32 am Post subject:
JerryMCarter1 wrote:
No I have a whole box full of them – I belong to a metal club with 750 members- we got it all!
No person uses them to set bearings-
When I said 1950 -- back then the 1/4 was the standard because the bearings were built will more tolerances- I only packed a few hundred cars .
They made roller bearings in 1910 for gods sake
Each to his own -- the next time you go to a mechanics shop or to a dealership ask them if they set the bearings with a dial indicator and they will laugh you out of the shop !
Jerry
I got to agree with that! I think the only ones that do, work on F-1 cars, NASCAR's, ext,,,, not the family truckster _________________ 1302s sunroof..
TimsACVW 1600cc motor. Glenn ring 010. full toplineparts.com suspension. factory front disk brakes. Tram type-3 rear brakes. Hurst shifter. empi-8's. low-back's. tons of mods!
Big thanks to my friends Jes67 & Keoki
no body uses them! really?
laughed out of shop.... for a $10 tool.
ok, so you can either do it with the dial
or
you can spend eternity explaining how to do it in the internet cloud
lets see, spin wheel and set it to no play. bucking the VW book end to end.
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,, from my experience, at the point you can spin the wheel freely you well have A small amount of side to side play,, if that side to side play was tightened to "0" there would be too much friction for the wheel to freely spin..
were thing the same thing just saying it differently 