want to lower the front of my 66

[billy270]

Ok i know there is a lot about lowering and all that i have a stock 66 vw i just orderd cb disc for the frount and 2 1/2 drop spendals... i am running 185/65/15 on stock wheels will i run in to any issues

[60ragtop]

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=143095
Lots of good reading here on lowerin BJ front end

[Joey]

I think you will need a narrowed beam. Dropped spindles alone adds 1/2" of track to each side.
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Joey

'56 Beetle
'65 Beetle
'74 Bus
'79 Panel

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[billy270]

I am wanting to narrow my beam 4" i like the acn adjusters but kinda high any good leads to some narrowed tierods with ends for a good price and also what all will i need to rebuild my bj beam

[slalombuggy]

Why don't you put on the dropped spindles and disk brakes and THEN see if you need a narrowed front beam. Chances are you won't. We've lowered cars for 25 years without narrowed beams.

brad
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BB Buggy 121.253mph @ Bonneville 2012
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Raisin cookies that look like chocolate chip cookies are the main reason I have trust issues

[billy270]

Well i deff would love to but it is the only car i have u know so if i put that on it has to be driveable what all do i need to rebuild a beam

[smitty24]

I agree with Brad.

It is amazing what just tire change and spindles can do, alone! My last setup was pretty low to people here in Utah, funny thing was that 80% of the front drop was just spindles and small tires. I dont think you will need a narrow beam with 185/65 and just spindles. One of my setups last year was 175/65, a 2" beam, and 5" wheels. I barely rubbed on tight turns but that was due to the fact the beam was down more than the range of just spindles.

Another example= my old '67 had an adjustable beam (stock width) with 165/80 (taller than your current tires). The beam was literally 4" down. Tires rubbed on bad turns. The 2.5" a spindle drops, aint much.

[billy270]

well what is involved in a beam rebuild

[smitty24]

removing beam, removing arms, rebuilding spindles if there is play, setting the steering geometry all back correctly when putting everything back together, new bushings or bearings. It is easier for me to just buy a new CB 2" beam compared to factory beams, especially since most of us run wider wheel/tire combos nowadays, along with discs/spindles etc. The CB are superior to anything else I have ever used. They have precise adjustment, exact tolerances, inner Delrin outer needle bearings. When you get one, you install the new leaves all greased up, then add new grease to zerks in beam. You setup your arms properly using a manual or two and shim the pins correctly, then adjust pins and grease spindles. You setup your brake system again, adjust brakes, wheel bearings, wheels back on and do some final toe stuff and you are done. Its a good weekend full of work if things go smooth.

[Dubbydubdub]

[smitty24]

my bad...didnt realize it was ball joint! You want a good pickle fork and a shop to press the new joints in to the arms. I strongly recommend extra travel joints. The only guy I ever knew that rebuilt a stock beam had a real hell of a time locating new needle bearings. When he found some and had the old ones removed, the cost exceeded the cost of a new US built beam by far! As DDD said, the job isnt that bad. If the beam has never been off or rebuilt, it will take a bit longer.

[billy270]

Well where can i geet the barings.... what about bushuigs and all the inturnal stuff

[drscope]

Billy, reading your posts, it obvious you don't know how the front suspension works or how it goes together.

Thats fine - we all had to start somewhere and we all started with NO knowledge.

BUT, do you really think it's a good idea to jump in and make major modifications like this if you don't understand how it is all supposed to work?

I'm suggesting you be a little more cautious and take your time before you start tearing into things. Learn about how and why it works before you try to make changes. And know what you want the results to be when those changes are done.

If you jump in with out that knowledge you can get into trouble really quick.

And since you mention that this is your only car, you run the risk of either having it out of commission for a really long time, having a very poor end result, or having to spend a lot of money to get it to someone who can finish it for you when you discover you are way over your head.

Doing it yourself does have it's rewards. But you need the knowledge, the skills and the tools to do the job. And if you don't have those things, this can get really expensive in many ways very quickly.

So I suggest you sit back and think about your abilities and the tools you have to work with.

Get a copy of Muier's "Idiot" book and read and learn about how the front end works. He explains things very well.

Then explore your other options.

You can get trailing arms with new ball joints already pressed in if you don't have a press. And you can also buy a beam in MANY different configurations from a bare beam to a fully assembled drum to drum or disc to disc set up.

All it takes is money!
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[billy270]

I have all the tools needed for the job...and I understand how it works. I just never been in the beam. i dont know what to check are where to get parts if needed thanks for the concern ...

[Dubbydubdub]

[billy270]

well.. I do have a bit of experiance in this area just wanted to know where i can get barings if needed

[drscope]

This place should have everything you need.

http://www2.cip1.com/

Good Luck!
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Mother Nature is a Mean Evil Bitch!

[Dubbydubdub]

[billy270]

I did not know i had to say what baring when i am talking about the beam the needle barings..not wheel barings are crank not even rod barings

[smitty24]

Most people will not just sell you new bearings for your old OG beam. The ones I have seen are from a bearing house and NOT cheap; hence the reason why I said earlier a new CB setup might be more up your ally, especially if you might need a couple more inches of clearance in the future. I highly recommend their beams.