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Montehms 67 Prairie Square
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MonT3
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 9:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My progress has been slowed a bit but I'm still plugging away at it. cleaning a few areas here and there. The latest was closing the corners on the outer skin. I had a few pin holes I had to take care of. Also was the rear side of the rocker skin that joined the inner door jam. The curves are a pain to deal with. I'm taking my time and really trying to flush that up as it'll be seen every time the doors are opened.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Another area I've been contemplating having to deal with are my A-pillars. Here's a pic of what they look like know...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

We'll see what comes back from the blaster. Speaking of which I had a great visit with a hotrod guy here that does blasting and he's taking on my shell as he hadn't seen one of these wagens in a while and wants to see it on the road. Unfortunately I have to wait about a week and half as his appendix was just removed but he's onboard to hammer it out and it's gonna run me about $400, picked-up and delivered.
I was shocked over the pick-up and delivery part alone but thanked him for that service.

So I have a little time to close a few loops before his crew comes over, picks up the shell and takes it.
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260KMN
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad your back Monte
I have been following your rocker rebuild very closely, as my 63, although different is similar enough in construction.
Its amazing how many sections there are at the front and rear areas of the rockers, trying to copy off a combination of your pictures and the goodish side of my car has been a timely experience.
I think ive got it somewhere near.
I am using the same outer skin as you on my bad side, i chose to leave the upper part, basically the door opening bit you can see in place and hopefully line up the cut down panel.
I found the shape of the repair outer panel completely different to the original also, especially around the area that the door seal buts up to, hence my decision to use as little as possible.
Good luck and keep the pictures coming.
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Clatter
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did I catch that right?
$400 for blasting the whole thing?
Like the whole shell and the removeables (doors, hood, decklid, frunk, etc.)?

For $400....

Right?

Question

Shocked

Impossible...
I just spent $150 or so for some media, and $300 to retro-fit my free blaster.

Now i am staring at days and days of miserable, tedious work.
With my two compressors, plumbing project, and tarp garage...

Everyone here charges about $1500 or $2000 for this.
Hopefully, you can see it blasted bare?
Able to see it clean before they cover it in primer?
Or you will prime it?

Anything cheap like that makes me suspicious.
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MonT3
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clatter wrote:
Did I catch that right?
$400 for blasting the whole thing?
Like the whole shell and the removeables (doors, hood, decklid, frunk, etc.)?

For $400....

Right?

Question

Shocked

Impossible...
I just spent $150 or so for some media, and $300 to retro-fit my free blaster.

Now i am staring at days and days of miserable, tedious work.
With my two compressors, plumbing project, and tarp garage...

Everyone here charges about $1500 or $2000 for this.
Hopefully, you can see it blasted bare?
Able to see it clean before they cover it in primer?
Or you will prime it?

Anything cheap like that makes me suspicious.

Clatter, the estimate given was for the shell only, taken down to bare metal. I’m planning having the inner parts of the fender, doors, frunk hatch done after the shell’s been sealed up and primed so I can do those pieces. Won’t be able to do that until:
-Rear corners are in
-Close up the rear sides by the arm rests
-Bumper bracket area is re-enforced
-Find out the condition of the A-pillar
-Find out the condition of the rear apron
Once I can get those areas done and get the shell sprayed, I’ll start on the other pieces. The guy doing the job is well known in the local rod community here and used to do this type of work for a living before retiring.

Am planning chemically stripping them down as possible and should the first piece prove to be a huge pain, mess and toxic fume factory, I‘ll have to shift gears to get them blasted as well but really only want to get the inner pieces blasted if I have to. I worry about warping or other mysterious surprises I may encounter with them. Hope that answers your questions or concerns
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MonT3
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

260KMN wrote:
Glad your back Monte
I have been following your rocker rebuild very closely, as my 63, although different is similar enough in construction.
Its amazing how many sections there are at the front and rear areas of the rockers, trying to copy off a combination of your pictures and the goodish side of my car has been a timely experience.
I think ive got it somewhere near.
I am using the same outer skin as you on my bad side, i chose to leave the upper part, basically the door opening bit you can see in place and hopefully line up the cut down panel.
I found the shape of the repair outer panel completely different to the original also, especially around the area that the door seal buts up to, hence my decision to use as little as possible.
Good luck and keep the pictures coming.

260KMN, Like to see some pics of what you’re up against once you clear up the rusty flakes. My front corners were in bad shape so I cut and checked and cut again until I found myself at the lower end of the bottom hinge. If you find yourself there and need to pie-cut the outer skin, give yourself some extra metal on the outer skin as you can trim back when you bend that portion in. And one important thing to do is test fit until you’re sick of it. Doors, fenders, both front and rear, put them back on with the rockers tacked in or screwed in with. Check your mount points for the fender-to-outer-skin area. Those areas area a pain but I’m got them there. I’ll be happier when the shell is all bare metal and I can see what’s left to be done and I hope to have no more surprises with it.

Post up some pics when you get a chance, I’m sure there are others in the community that will chime in with suggestions on dealing with what you have going on.
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And off it goes...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

The shell left today. I was able to work on it a little prior to it being picked up. I look forward to it coming back with all it's issues visible. Tomorrow I start stripping fenders down with some aircraft remover. Will see how that works.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2014 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Monte
Sorry for delay in replying, been away for a few weeks, back on it now, ive added some shots of my RH channel to my 63 RHD notch thread and some others in the gallery under notchback.
Its rough round the edges but generally ok. The front of the heater channel repair is testing me though, so many repair sections to make and weld in. Will post more when I get there.
Keep up the good work
Cheers
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MonT3
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2014 6:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Couple things to update... Over the weekend I started to strip the paint from one of the fenders and quickly realized this process wasn't going to work out for me so I elected to send the panels off to get sprayed when the shell comes back. So I spent my weekend cleaning the garage in anticipation of the shell showing up on Monday

Yesterday the shell was delivered and was really excited to see it in one color. The blaster did a good job with it and was under budget from my initial quote.

I spent the afternoon looking the shell over and have some holes to contend with as well some other areas...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I asked the blaster to leave the roof alone as I'll sand it down...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Have some patch work to do on the edges...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

came out better than I thought but still...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Yeah...well...this should be fun
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

and this...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

this too...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

both sides of my bumper bracket area is this bad...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Here's my apron damage. Gotta figure out how to deal with this one. Some dents on the other side as well but not that bad...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

one of a few in the window channel area...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2014 6:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MonT3 wrote:
Couple things to update...

Yesterday the shell was delivered and was really excited to see it in one color. The blaster did a good job with it and was under budget from my initial quote.

I spent the afternoon looking the shell over and have some holes to contend with as well some other areas...

came out better than I thought but still...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Well, at least we now know why you were having so much trouble welding. Shocked That area looks pretty thin.

The rest of the areas will need some metal welded in. Make up some cardboard templates first, then cut your shapes out. Wink
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Clatter
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Woo!
$400!
Did you hear that, Dave?
Very Happy

So, best to turn it upside down/blow out before epoxy, to keep the sand out of the epoxy?
But then, you risk contamination to the bare metal...
Epoxy, then upside down?
You are in a really dry area, vs. my wet spot.
Plus, you can seal your shell up in the garage at night.
So maybe not so crucial to get it coated right away?

One thing for sure,
Is that all those holes will make it easy to blow all the sand out.
Looking at the bright side!

Congratulations on the milestone!
Very Happy
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MonT3
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2014 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the comments guys. Gonna start out with filling in the pin holes starting at one corner and working my way around. I have a wheel well hump just in case a giant hole came back. Will be looking at that when the time comes.

I will have to tackle it with the shop vac as I see material still hanging out. So with the some air pressure and shop vac I can get some of it. So into the garage I go to start filling some holes. More to follow...
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Clatter
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tell you what, you want to turn tha sucker upside down first.
Use those holes as a probletunity to get the sand out.

When I emptied (each) shop vac after our upside down blast session, it was a strain to lift each one.
That was after a couple of hours blowing and vacuuming right side up first.

You might still have 50-75 pounds of sand in that car still even after a thorough right side up vacuum/air blow session.

Promise....
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MonT3
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2014 12:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

*EDIT* Seemed to have duplicated an image. Second one added

Spent the morning with air pressure and shop vac going down the heat tube in the rocker channel as well as getting into as many crevices as possible. Still had material in there. Will try to move this thing around before I get it sprayed. I then focused my attention to the front cowl. I had a few small holes I was able to plug up and get cleaned up pretty good but I had a few that were near the air vents and I didn't want to put a 2in flap disk in there.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

New image...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I can't seem to find anything smaller to work the excess material out from there. Does anyone have a good source to buy these discs in various sizes and bulk? I've been using 3 and 2in HF discs. Any assistance in sourcing these would be greatly appreciated.

I had a hole on the pass side of the cowl that I can only imagine may have been a antenna or something of the sort - maybe. It had a plug on the underside so I began to fill that area. Almost done with it as it needs a little more material
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Last edited by MonT3 on Wed Aug 27, 2014 10:12 pm; edited 2 times in total
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supersuk
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2014 1:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You sure have a lot of work ahead of you regarding the rust, but its looking good and keep chugging away! It may seem like a lot of work, but once you start chugging it'll keep going. Next thing you know, you're ready for primer and body work!

How thin is the metal by the front louvers? You might start burning holes and the last thing you want is to burn a hole in that curved section where the louver starts. Weld with a piece of copper backing that area to absorb the heat.

Keep on chugging!!
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2014 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would a dremel work? Might take a little while longer, but it's only in a few small areas...
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2014 10:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

supersuk wrote:
You sure have a lot of work ahead of you regarding the rust, but its looking good and keep chugging away! It may seem like a lot of work, but once you start chugging it'll keep going. Next thing you know, you're ready for primer and body work!

How thin is the metal by the front louvers? You might start burning holes and the last thing you want is to burn a hole in that curved section where the louver starts. Weld with a piece of copper backing that area to absorb the heat.

Keep on chugging!!


Yup, I suspected I was going to have more on my hands after the shell came back from the blaster. Especially the rear wheel hump. The pillars also posed concern. I have two sets of replacements (one set's a piece of inner skins and the other set is the whole pillar) for them but haven't really looked the damage over well enough to choose my next move on it.

The metal by the louvers isn't thin (at least that what it looks like to me). I was able to seal the holes up and looking at the underside, it wasn't bad as far a blowing a hole thru the metal. The front section by the louvers are done and I just need to clean that built up area there at the edge. But the louvers themselves are good. I was a bit concerned over them earlier and had sought out a replacement cowl just in case. May not need that piece after all.
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MonT3
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2014 10:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bobnorman wrote:
Would a dremel work? Might take a little while longer, but it's only in a few small areas...


I think that may be the course to take. At least to tear down the built up area and go in by hand afterwards. I did find a small 1in disc kit but the amount of grinding discs as part of the kit wasn't worth it to me. Will have to seek out some dremel bits to see what shapes may be best suited for this spot. BTW, how's your project going?
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 5:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MonT3 wrote:
bobnorman wrote:
Would a dremel work? Might take a little while longer, but it's only in a few small areas...


I think that may be the course to take. At least to tear down the built up area and go in by hand afterwards. I did find a small 1in disc kit but the amount of grinding discs as part of the kit wasn't worth it to me. Will have to seek out some dremel bits to see what shapes may be best suited for this spot. BTW, how's your project going?


I recall using the small coarse drum sander bit in tight areas before, seemed to work well.

The project is pretty much at a dead stop...for now. Time in the garage doesn’t seem to get anywhere near the top of the pile of the other demands on my time lately. That'll change I'm sure, but for now I'm buying the scattered part online and living vicariously through you guys. So, keep at it…you’re all I’ve got! Laughing
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MonT3 wrote:

I had a hole on the pass side of the cowl that I can only imagine may have been a antenna or something of the sort - maybe. It had a plug on the underside so I began to fill that area. Almost done with it as it needs a little more material
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


You should have ground out the porosity (lack of shielding gas in the welds) out of that plug before welding it back in. Right now you can still see some of the weld craters, that need to be filled with weld. It'll take a little longer to fix this (high heat, and low wire speed), but it should come out smooth when done. Wink

Your cowl repair looks pretty damn good though. I think a dremel with a sanding drum should get you the rest of the way. I do agree on the 1 inch discs. Very hard to justify the cost of them. It's easier to wear out a 2 inch disc down to that size. Wink
Looking good though. Very Happy
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64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 6:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="Bobnotch"]
MonT3 wrote:

I had a hole on the pass side of the cowl that I can only imagine may have been a antenna or something of the sort - maybe. It had a plug on the underside so I began to fill that area. Almost done with it as it needs a little more material
You should have ground out the porosity (lack of shielding gas in the welds) out of that plug before welding it back in. Right now you can still see some of the weld craters, that need to be filled with weld. It'll take a little longer to fix this (high heat, and low wire speed), but it should come out smooth when done. Wink

Your cowl repair looks pretty damn good though. I think a dremel with a sanding drum should get you the rest of the way. I do agree on the 1 inch discs. Very hard to justify the cost of them. It's easier to wear out a 2 inch disc down to that size. Wink
Looking good though. Very Happy


I didn't think about grinding those spots down and was more about filling it in - lesson learned. Embarassed I'll add more heat and use less material while trying to fill those craters. I'll take a few of my work down discs and cut them down and use them with the 1in disc and see what comes of it. But the Dremel will be within arms reach Laughing
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