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Clatter Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2003 Posts: 7544 Location: Santa Cruz
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Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 10:48 pm Post subject: |
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FWIW, I'm really glad I got my shell upside down.
There was no way even a fraction of the sand was going to come out otherwise.
Dunno if SD is anything like CA,
but,
Coulda had a couple dozen street mattresses by now.
Got rid of the ones I had, even though one might come in handy again,
because I see new ones at least once a week.
Boy, is my wife disappointed they are gone!
Seriously, turning a bare shell over is an easy two-man job.
If you have open rafters in your garage, and a come-along or a few block/tackles, you could probably roll it yourself.
Nice to see you plugging away at it again... _________________ Bus Motor Build
What’s That Noise?!? |
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MonT3 Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2012 Posts: 1988 Location: South Dakota
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Posted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 6:41 pm Post subject: |
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The project has slowed a bit since my work shift changed. However, I've managed to get some work done on it and feeling pretty good about my progress. Sorry no pics to post at the moment but
- Frunk pits got some material and was ground/flushed - Done
- Rear fender lower trim holes welded up and ground down - Done
- Rusted areas of lower fender lip cut and new piece grafted in - In progress
- Front Fender lower corner rot cut out - In progress
- Dents in rear hatch tapped out - Sort of. Had a mishap and had to cut into my hatch. Cost me a couple of hours of frustration but I have a piece grafted in and need to finish the weld/grinding. Long story, PBRs involved, late, tired = Mistake made. Should have just waited for morning to work on it.
I'll be doing some grinding on the hatch in the AM. _________________ MonT3
67 Squareback
64 Squareback
63 Squareback
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Clatter Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2003 Posts: 7544 Location: Santa Cruz
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Posted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 7:10 pm Post subject: |
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MonT3 wrote: |
Long story, PBRs involved, late, tired = Mistake made. |
Heyman,
I can relate to this^^^^
If this was easy, all kinds of fools would be rolling tight, fresh type 3s... _________________ Bus Motor Build
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Bobnotch Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 22425 Location: Kimball, Mi
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Posted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 8:17 pm Post subject: |
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Clatter wrote: |
MonT3 wrote: |
Long story, PBRs involved, late, tired = Mistake made. |
Heyman,
I can relate to this^^^^
If this was easy, all kinds of fools would be rolling tight, fresh type 3s... |
Yup, BTDT, but had either Bud lights, or Michelob lights involved. _________________ Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote: |
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
Tram wrote: |
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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930 Samba Member
Joined: January 31, 2013 Posts: 90 Location: Europe
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Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 9:22 am Post subject: |
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Hi MonT3,
great progress with the project and looking good
Would it be possible for you to do a small favor for me? If you could take a couple of measurements as per the picture below I would be really grateful.
Keep up the good work and patience with the project
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MonT3 Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2012 Posts: 1988 Location: South Dakota
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Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 6:31 pm Post subject: |
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From left to right:
11" top of armrest to top of hump
16 1/4" center hole to bottom of inner rocker
14 1/8" center hole to top of inner rocker
My rockers were made from scratch for the it may vary just a tad compared to the OG ones. Hope this helps some and thanks, I haven't posted my last batch of work will be doing so possibly tomorrow after another day in the garage. _________________ MonT3
67 Squareback
64 Squareback
63 Squareback
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930 Samba Member
Joined: January 31, 2013 Posts: 90 Location: Europe
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Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 11:40 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks a ton MonT3,
Yes I am sure it will help a lot - mine will be done from scratch as well and as I don't have original comparison points anymore it's kind of tough to know where to place the rockers
Looking forward to see the next batch of pictures.
Seasons greetings from cold Northern Europe...
MonT3 wrote: |
From left to right:
11" top of armrest to top of hump
16 1/4" center hole to bottom of inner rocker
14 1/8" center hole to top of inner rocker
My rockers were made from scratch for the it may vary just a tad compared to the OG ones. Hope this helps some and thanks, I haven't posted my last batch of work will be doing so possibly tomorrow after another day in the garage. |
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MonT3 Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2012 Posts: 1988 Location: South Dakota
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Posted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 7:02 am Post subject: |
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930 wrote: |
Thanks a ton MonT3,
Yes I am sure it will help a lot - mine will be done from scratch as well and as I don't have original comparison points anymore it's kind of tough to know where to place the rockers
Looking forward to see the next batch of pictures.
Seasons greetings from cold Northern Europe...
MonT3 wrote: |
From left to right:
11" top of armrest to top of hump
16 1/4" center hole to bottom of inner rocker
14 1/8" center hole to top of inner rocker
My rockers were made from scratch for the it may vary just a tad compared to the OG ones. Hope this helps some and thanks, I haven't posted my last batch of work will be doing so possibly tomorrow after another day in the garage. |
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I can only recommend if you're planning on using the outer skins being offered on the web, mock your rockers off the car prior to your attachment. I thought I had everything lined up with the lower lip of the outer skin and the inner rocker skin sitting against each other. The outer skin shape was longer so I had a gap on the bottom. I had to add an extension to the bottom lip as well as adding a little compression. If I had to do it all over again, which I may when it comes time to rebuild my 63, I plan on making that extension longer and trimming it down when the rockers are put together. I'll also build them off the car then attach the whole thing rather than build them onto the car. My stress level was high as I had alot going on with placing them back on, rotted corners and footwell. Certainly was a hard puzzle to put together. Looking back at it, I had fun and lots of beers were consumed while planning my attack and figuring out my mistakes. But it was fun.
Gearing up to get into the garage to clean up some fenders. Will post some pics this evening. Seasons greetings to you as well. _________________ MonT3
67 Squareback
64 Squareback
63 Squareback
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930 Samba Member
Joined: January 31, 2013 Posts: 90 Location: Europe
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Posted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 8:58 am Post subject: |
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Hi MonT3 & thanks for the tip, appreciate it.
I'm not using panels available but everything is done from scratch using measurements / shape from the old parts - where available as rust had eaten a *lot* of metal away I've lined everything up using intergrips and gleko's and I asked for the measurements to double / triple check everything before I weld the parts properly.
MonT3 wrote: |
930 wrote: |
Thanks a ton MonT3,
Yes I am sure it will help a lot - mine will be done from scratch as well and as I don't have original comparison points anymore it's kind of tough to know where to place the rockers
Looking forward to see the next batch of pictures.
Seasons greetings from cold Northern Europe...
MonT3 wrote: |
From left to right:
11" top of armrest to top of hump
16 1/4" center hole to bottom of inner rocker
14 1/8" center hole to top of inner rocker
My rockers were made from scratch for the it may vary just a tad compared to the OG ones. Hope this helps some and thanks, I haven't posted my last batch of work will be doing so possibly tomorrow after another day in the garage. |
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I can only recommend if you're planning on using the outer skins being offered on the web, mock your rockers off the car prior to your attachment. I thought I had everything lined up with the lower lip of the outer skin and the inner rocker skin sitting against each other. The outer skin shape was longer so I had a gap on the bottom. I had to add an extension to the bottom lip as well as adding a little compression. If I had to do it all over again, which I may when it comes time to rebuild my 63, I plan on making that extension longer and trimming it down when the rockers are put together. I'll also build them off the car then attach the whole thing rather than build them onto the car. My stress level was high as I had alot going on with placing them back on, rotted corners and footwell. Certainly was a hard puzzle to put together. Looking back at it, I had fun and lots of beers were consumed while planning my attack and figuring out my mistakes. But it was fun.
Gearing up to get into the garage to clean up some fenders. Will post some pics this evening. Seasons greetings to you as well. |
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MonT3 Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2012 Posts: 1988 Location: South Dakota
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Posted: Sun Dec 28, 2014 12:30 pm Post subject: |
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Progress has been slow but I've managed to get the rear fenders and one front completed.
I spent some time on the driver side fender with the ripples on it. I'm please with the turn out as I tapped on it for a while and all I need to do is to patch a few holes in it. I thought I was going to have to cut that corner out and put in a new piece so saving it was a good feeling. here a before and after...
The doors had a few more issues than I thought. Being the driver door was a late that had been modified, I cleaned up what I could. some holes on the bottom of the door were filled but there are some areas that'll have seam sealer filling the holes as it's too close to the outer door skin. But what's been the most frustrating part is this...
I'm debating grinding these jagged pieces down, getting a small strip and using JBweld on it. Any thoughts? And the door corner was corrected. just need to clean up the weld...
Had a piece of a donor fender. Slipped in there good...
Tomorrow will be door cleaning day. I've got about few weeks before the shell is due at my buddies for epoxy. Still need to remove the paint from the roof, grind a few high weld spots near the rear bumper bracket area and give it a good once-over before it goes. _________________ MonT3
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Bobnotch Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 22425 Location: Kimball, Mi
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Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 2:45 pm Post subject: |
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MonT3 wrote: |
Progress has been slow but I've managed to get the rear fenders and one front completed.
The doors had a few more issues than I thought. But what's been the most frustrating part is this...
I'm debating grinding these jagged pieces down, getting a small strip and using JBweld on it. Any thoughts? And the door corner was corrected. just need to clean up the weld... |
That fender came out great. Nice job.
As for the bottom of the right door, that lip that's missing helps support the door seal at the bottom. There's 2 things you can do, clean it up as best as you can, and not worry about it, or replace the entire door. Sorry, but that's the best I can do from here. I only say that, as you'd basically have to cut the entire bottom off a donor door, and weld it on that one, to fix it. But, if you clean it up good (spend some extra time with the sand blaster), then seal it in epoxy (dump some in from behind to help it weep in the gap), it'll probably las a long time. Hell, you might find a pair of cleaner doors in a year or 2 to replace both of them (hey, you never know ). I only say that, as that's how it usually works. _________________ Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote: |
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
Tram wrote: |
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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MonT3 Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2012 Posts: 1988 Location: South Dakota
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Posted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 8:55 am Post subject: |
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Since my last post, I've been pushing to get other things done so I took a break from the door and last fender issue. Wish I could push/pull this dent out as well as the mod made at the handle Had small holes so I filled them. I don' think I can do much more to it unless I could get at it from the inside. Any thoughts on one of those dent puller tools ( drill small hole and screw in the bit and pull the dent by a hammering-type action)?
I then went back into the engine bay and cleaned up some high points on the bumper bracket welds. Then came sanding the roof of the remaining paint on it...
I found the layers of primer, paint and clear a formidable opponent as the roof ended up taking me a couple of days to clean up...
I also thought I was going to get away with a nice dent/ding-free skin and as I wounded the rear driver corner, the putty began to reveal itself. It's in a spot where tools can't get to the underside to work the dings out. I thought about leaving what had been put on but chose to remove it all together and see the issue.
All that's left to remove from the roof...
Also, do these metal pieces come off the door windows to replace them or is this something I need to look into getting the windows replaced?
I plan on another shakedown of the shell for anything missed and try to work out some more blasting material. I'm planning on getting the shell and fenders under some seam sealer and epoxy primer and some raptor liner mid month if all goes well. _________________ MonT3
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Bobnotch Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 22425 Location: Kimball, Mi
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Bobnotch Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 22425 Location: Kimball, Mi
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Posted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 9:32 am Post subject: |
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MonT3 wrote: |
Since my last post, I've been pushing to get other things done so I took a break from the door and last fender issue. Wish I could push/pull this dent out as well as the mod made at the handle Had small holes so I filled them. I don' think I can do much more to it unless I could get at it from the inside. Any thoughts on one of those dent puller tools ( drill small hole and screw in the bit and pull the dent by a hammering-type action)?
Also, do these metal pieces come off the door windows to replace them or is this something I need to look into getting the windows replaced?
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Those dent pullers work, but you might want to try 1 of those stud welders instead, as then you don't have to fill the hole that you drilled. Sometimes those pullers also try to bulge the metal around the hole, making more work for yourself.
I'd contact Joel (Boo-Koo-Z), or Mike Fisher, and see if he'll sell you just the metal part, as they do come off the glass. The glass is the same side for side, it's the placement of the metal part that determines right or left.
The roof bondo sucks, but it might not be as bad as you think (your pics might make it actually look worse than it really is). It might be some hail dents, or maybe a tree branch fell there, and put a small dent section in that area, that the body person just filled in to level everything out. Now, if you remove the bodo, and find rust, then I'd be worried. My old 70 Square had people walk on it's roof, and it had a section of heavy surface rust. I sandblasted that area, popped as much of the roof back into place, and sealed it with epoxy, before filling it in with filler (bondo). It still looks as good as it did back in 1998 when I fixed it (I drove the car last spring). What I'm getting at, is if it's done correctly, it's not a big deal. _________________ Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote: |
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
Tram wrote: |
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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MonT3 Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2012 Posts: 1988 Location: South Dakota
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Posted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 7:51 pm Post subject: |
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Bobnotch wrote: |
MonT3 wrote: |
Since my last post, I've been pushing to get other things done so I took a break from the door and last fender issue. Wish I could push/pull this dent out as well as the mod made at the handle Had small holes so I filled them. I don' think I can do much more to it unless I could get at it from the inside. Any thoughts on one of those dent puller tools ( drill small hole and screw in the bit and pull the dent by a hammering-type action)?
Also, do these metal pieces come off the door windows to replace them or is this something I need to look into getting the windows replaced?
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Those dent pullers work, but you might want to try 1 of those stud welders instead, as then you don't have to fill the hole that you drilled. Sometimes those pullers also try to bulge the metal around the hole, making more work for yourself.
I'd contact Joel (Boo-Koo-Z), or Mike Fisher, and see if he'll sell you just the metal part, as they do come off the glass. The glass is the same side for side, it's the placement of the metal part that determines right or left.
The roof bondo sucks, but it might not be as bad as you think (your pics might make it actually look worse than it really is). It might be some hail dents, or maybe a tree branch fell there, and put a small dent section in that area, that the body person just filled in to level everything out. Now, if you remove the bodo, and find rust, then I'd be worried. My old 70 Square had people walk on it's roof, and it had a section of heavy surface rust. I sandblasted that area, popped as much of the roof back into place, and sealed it with epoxy, before filling it in with filler (bondo). It still looks as good as it did back in 1998 when I fixed it (I drove the car last spring). What I'm getting at, is if it's done correctly, it's not a big deal. |
Decided to take the morning off since I had to work this evening. Picked up a Stud Welder from HF and look forward to using it on the door as well as the rear hatch and maybe even the roof piece dependent on what’s under the bondo . Didn’t read anything in the HF Win/Lose thread on this unit so I guess I’ll give it a review when I’m done with it with this project.
I'll reach out on the window piece. Thanks Bobnotch. _________________ MonT3
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ibjack Samba Member
Joined: February 06, 2002 Posts: 2106 Location: Imperial Beach CA
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Posted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 9:26 pm Post subject: |
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ErikG recommended it to me, so I say win. I'm planning on buying one once I'm able to _________________ '68 Lotus White T34 automatic sunroof
'64 Manila Yellow T34
'65 Sea Blue Square Panel
the1500club.com
Shop Lacky at the T3/34 Factory, https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100094313902074 |
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MonT3 Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2012 Posts: 1988 Location: South Dakota
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Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 7:14 pm Post subject: |
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There's been alot going on since the last update. I found a new hatch. Used the stud welder on it and it was cool to get some of the dent out. since the it's close quarters in the lower hatch area, I had trouble getting dolly tools in there so I elected to go with what I accomplished for the moment.
Next up was going back to visit the door. What I found with the stud welder was the half second-to-second hold on the trigger wasn't working for me all the time. Don't get me wrong, I like that thing. But when I placed the cheesy dent puller into place, some of the studs would come undone. I made sure I had everything turned off so the circuit was committed as the instructions stated but at times two out of five would stick. That became a little frustrating. So I improvised and created a little jig using some rod stock, same diameter as well as some flat sock. Drilled a few choice holes where I needed in the lowest portions of the work area, inserted the rod from the jig from the inside of the door, set up the dent puller and straightened the area out. I was very please with my little jigs
Next up was going back to the fenders and addressing any dings and cleaning anything I missed.
]
I'm taking the pieces I had soda blasted to the car wash and cleaning and air drying them off tomorrow. I'm about two weeks from shooting all of it in epoxy and start the funs stuff... Bodywork.
I've decided to go with 67 VW Blue as my color and my interior, well, I'll put out a teaser later. _________________ MonT3
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squaretobehip Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2004 Posts: 3693 Location: San Jose, CA
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Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 7:31 pm Post subject: |
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VW Blue is a great choice! _________________ 1963 Notchback - Ruby Red
1963 Squareback - Pearl White
1965 Squareback - Baltic Blue
Follow ISP West on:
Facebook - www.facebook.com/ispwest
Instagram - @ispwest - www.instagram.com/ispwest |
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MonT3 Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2012 Posts: 1988 Location: South Dakota
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Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 10:37 pm Post subject: |
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Finally to a point where the shell is getting ready for its trip to the shop to get some epoxy. These small holes were found during a flashlight check in a blacked-out garage. Cleaning them up in the AM.
The dent on the roof was worked out but there's 3 dings so that place will get some putty. The Stud welder did a good job there. Once the shell is gone, my focus goes back to the fender and door to see if there is anything more I can do.
I washed the fenders, hood, doors and hatch while we had some warm and windy days. I'm glad I was able to get them done as I just got a cold front in with rain freezing and leaving a sheet of ice all over.
Seem my progress as of late is slowing, putting alot of thought into the next step. Still need to do the following to call the shell complete:
- Lay down the epoxy primer. This includes inside the rear air-duct area where I have the outer skin removed. I want to get some good coats in those areas that were rusted/rotted.
- Weld in the air duct outer skins and seal them up as well as the heater channel tubes that connect to the backrest/floor area. I'll be doing this at my buddies shop to prevent from having to move the shell again just to weld the pieces in from home.
- Spray the Raptor liner in the underside as well as the wheel well areas, trunk and cargo area.
Maybe February will be a good month...
Gotta give thanks to Joel (Boo-Koo-Z) for squaring me away with the lower metal pieces from the door glass. Thanks man, appreciate it! _________________ MonT3
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bobnorman Samba Newfoundlander
Joined: August 09, 2010 Posts: 1389 Location: Newfoundland
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Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 6:31 am Post subject: |
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Nice work Monte, you’re really moving along with this, good for you. Seeing it in epoxy will be quite the motivator I’m sure, it’s onward and upward from there. I’m sure you’re glad to see the metal work stage done. _________________ Air does not freeze. Air does not boil.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=289807 |
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