34Pict Tuning Problems

[spencerfvee]

yes worn out shafts .water damage.( yea i open the top of the carb and i pour the water out and they will say that wont hurt the carb will it lol) dirt mud tar looking crap . sand stripped out threads . most of the time the passages are blocked . most guys think that soaking a carb in carb cleanner is a fix all . most of these carbs are 40 years old . so how much time is one going to invest in trying to fix a carb (and from reading the forums on samba theres some guys that have been trying to fix carbs for 90 days and they have spent a lot of time and money some carbs you just have to walk away from ) some shops charge may be from $60.00 to $80.00 to rebuild a carb around here . ok if you have a carb thats not working right after its been rebuilt. how much time are you going to use trying to fix that carb . time cost money . thats what it all comes down to money . most people are not willing to put a lot of money into a stock solex 34 carb belive me . and i dont blame them . .oh theres shops around here that say they can fix any carb and there the best carb rebuilders around .till you see the bill they get from them lol . for what they charge you could buy a new carb . just my two cents spencerfvee

[spencerfvee]

you would not want the carbs belive me lol under ohio law we have to give the carbs back to the owner . unless they put them in the trash can then they are junked 90% of guys take them with them some times i see them for sale on the samba lol .or at swap meets . spencerfvee

[mharney]

You should see some of the crap I bring back to life.

Brass parts and steel parts are a commodity for me. I replate all the steel I can, and brass parts frequently are missing from cores. Choke protection caps too.. Bodies are salvagable for stripped threads and minor water damage. I am probably going to start passivating bodies soon.

[hosspowerinc]

The float measured at 19mm so that checks out. I decided to go for an actual drive today and it did really well. I should have mentioned I live in the mountains have all my driving had been on hilly switch back roads so far. Once I got on level roads it drove really well and cruising at 70mph was no problem. Im going to get a 130 and 132 main ordered and see what it does next week.

On another note I drove about 30 miles and parked to eat lunch for 30-40 minutes. It started right up after but died as soon as the carb bowl went dry. I pulled the fuel line to the carb and wasnt getting anything. I pulled the fuel line to the pump and had fuel. Waited about 30 minutes and it started pumping again. Im guessing heat soak in the fuel pump caused it but what can be done about that? I have the german style rebuildable pump but its an aftermarket unit. I did check for vapor lock but there was none.

[spencerfvee]

hi you said you have 2 1/2 lbs fuel pressure are you useing one of those fuel regs that has a dial on it and you dial the fuel pressure you want .?to get your 2 1/2 lbs fuel pressure / if you are useing one dont ...there junk and they do not let a enough fuel into the carb .they allso can leak and burn your car to the ground. i have seen it first hand . and if your not useing a fuel reg. if you can check the fuel pressure at the pump a good pump will put out 3 1/2 lbs to 51/2 lbs of fuel pressure . if your pump is way under 3 lbs i would replace the fuel pump if it was me spencerfvee.........

[hosspowerinc]

Mine was at 7psi out of the box. I added several gaskets to lower it to 2.5 as many say thats where it should be. I guess I will bump it up some and see if that helps. Its only 80 degrees today but I was running it hard to get it broken in. Plus new engines seem to run a little warmer.

[RailBoy]

hos, try the shorter of the two fuel pump push rods.....

I had like 9 or 11 psi with the long push rod, forget exactly, but went with the shorter and go like 3 psi.

Thing is Beetles out of the factory had like 3psi fuel pressure in all there motors, but people over time swapped things around meaning push rods and fuel pumps getting away from stock set-up and that is were peeps have problems.....

I got mine back into the 3psi realm for my 2110 with OEM parts that came original with out extra gaskets, so it can be done....

Also, FYI, you may have to swap around your Fuel Pumps, mine was the wrong one and I had to figure out what was original to get back to Stock... RB

[hosspowerinc]

I have the short pushrod ground flush with the flange and about 10 gaskets to get the pressure down. Ive read that a factory spring in these aftermarket pumps fixed them but I couldn't find one.

Ive been reading some on the fuel pump heat soak and it seems to be somewhat common. I might try shielding the steel fuel line and see if that helps any but I will be keeping an electric pump in the car as a spare.

[mharney]

I really don't like mechanical fuel pumps. The OEM German ones were good, and the replacements tend to suck. An electric pump is all I will use and recommend anymore. Pick the right one, and you don't need a regulator.

[Altema]

[hosspowerinc]

I really like that idea. I have the same fitting and have some 3/8" tubing that should work well. I also thought about bringing a can of the CO2 "duster" to quickly cool the pump. When held upside down they will put a layer of ice on something quickly.

[Altema]

[mharney]

And this is much more of a problem with modern replacements than it was with the originals. This is one reason I don't use mechanicals anymore.

..but no one listens to me anyway.. <crawls back in crevice>

[hosspowerinc]

If I were to put an electric pump in series with the mechanical would the mechanical boost the pressure or would it self regulate to 3 psi (assuming that is the pressure you would have without the additional pump). In airplanes we have an electric boost pump for redundancy and Im liking that idea for this. I already have a 3 psi solenoid pump on the shelf but Ive had 2 burn up on me in the past and like the idea of a mechanical backup. I could also mount it with a remote switch but Id rather not have to think about it and have it run when the ignition is hot.

[mharney]

Any time you put two pumps inline, the second pump increases the pressure as

P3 = P2 + P1

Where P3 is the final pressure, and P1 and P2 are the outputs from pump 1 and pump 2.

It's not a good idea from my chair.. You want 3-4 psi referenced from atmospheric pressure.

I also don't like diaphragm pumps. I like rotary pumps like the Carter ones that are self regulating at 3.5 psi.

[Altema]

[mharney]

Right.. parallel is how you do that. In line or series is additive.

[hosspowerinc]

Who would have thought you guys knew what you were talking about? I put in a 130 main and problem solved. I can start out in 2nd gear, on a hill, without slipping the clutch and it just pulls away smoothly. Thanks for the help.

[Altema]

[spencerfvee]

glade your happy with your vw now . spencerfvee