dual valve spring-engine breakin question

Woody Gee

I have heads with dual valve springs. I'm in the process of removing one of the springs to ease the break in cycle. I'm removing the inner spring and then wondered if taking out the outer might be better. This is just for the break in and then it will be reassembled.

Any thoughts?
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mark tucker · Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 11:09 am Post subject:

just remove the inner.adjust lash as normal.but dont forget you will also need to heat cycle the inners befor you go out and kkill it if you expecpt them to last.

DarthWeber · Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 11:54 am Post subject:

I agree 100% completely with Mr. Tucker.......for now. Very Happy

Remove the spark plugs, rocker assemblies and pushrods when you crank it for oil pressure. Also make sure your fuel magnets are oriented properly.
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tattooed_pariah · Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 12:10 pm Post subject:

DarthWeber · Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 12:27 pm Post subject:

Well, if you have tool steel lifters it doesn't matter a bit. With normal lifters the less spring pressure during breakin, the better. The engine is only reving to about 2500 and there is no load on the engine. You just need to keep the lifter faces and cam lobes in friendly contact with each other to work harden them nicely.
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tattooed_pariah · Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 12:32 pm Post subject:

Woody Gee · Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 12:39 pm Post subject:

Ok, just how does one heat cycle the inner springs? How often should one do such a procedure without appearing pushy??

As for the magnets I'm using hi-tensile duct tape,
_________________
His: 74 standard bug
2332
Hers: 67 bug project
2332
theirs: 62 2110 turbo drag car
floor sweep motor
12.98 @107

In my research I have discovered that senility is painless.

scotth17 · Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 12:49 pm Post subject:

Duct tape can interfere with the flux field of the magnets and should never be used! Gorilla tape can be used in a pinch. Also never use a 009 with magnets as it will cause a flat spot at WOT...

tattooed_pariah · Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 1:04 pm Post subject:

i hate you guys soo much right now... hahaha! i shoulda known what fuel magnets were... I vaguely recall seeing them on the shelf when I bought my muffler bearings.. Rolling Eyes

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DarthWeber · Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 1:08 pm Post subject:

[email protected] · Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 1:19 pm Post subject:

I have seen the lifters and cam grenade in 3 minutes if they are mismatched.
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tattooed_pariah · Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 1:40 pm Post subject:

DarthWeber · Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 3:01 pm Post subject:

I wouldn't worry about your Engle parts. The cam blank is Chinese, can't avoid that, but it's still ground here as are the lifters if I'm not mistaken.
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tattooed_pariah · Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 3:07 pm Post subject:

neil68 · Samba Member Joined: March 17, 2007 Posts: 2227

Given the wide range of cam and lifter issues that some have experienced, it's difficult to say for sure what the best way to break in an engine would be.

For myself, I've always done the break-in with dual springs and never experienced any issues. I don't bother removing the rocker arms or the spark plugs either. I think it was Mark Herbert who said something similar years ago, as well...just make sure you develop oil pressure with the coil lead grounded first. I use a zinc coating on the lobes and lifter tops, plus a zinc oil supplement and always synthetic oil.
to each his own I guess...I think we sometimes beat this issue to death with worry.
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tattooed_pariah · Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 3:18 pm Post subject: Re: break-in

modok · Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 5:02 pm Post subject:

I think this is true, there is definitely no benefit to running exactly X rpm, you probably better off to vary the rpm some.
I just try to stay in the lower two thirds of the engines rpm range at first

If you want to get complex about it, one aspect is temperature. The faster you are spinning it the hotter it will get. For break-in you would not want it too cold or too hot.
What speed will give the optimum surface temperatures for the parts and springs and oil you are using???? WHO KNOWS I'm sure it varies.

mark tucker · Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 6:01 pm Post subject:

heat cycle+ cold, hot cold hot cold. just put the inners in adjust the valves & get it hot,not over heat!!! & let it cool compleatly do this a few times before going on a bonzi run.and dont forget to change theoil&filter a few times.
can lifters die fast?? YES.
if you have a stock vw cam, go and get it...... do you have it?? ok look at it,now look at the lobes.they have a chamfer around them on both sides dont they?? yes they do.and no sharp edges either do they?? no. now go get an aftermarket cam......... got it? good look at it, see the chanfer on it???? what??? no chamfer??? sharp edges??? tapered lobe,raidusted lifters=what??? ride on the side of the lobe where the sharp edges are.yes in theroy the taper on the lifter & the cam should match .but who made what when with what standards as far as taper??? some .001 some .002 some more. so what do you do to make it last longer??? deburr the cam&lifter, a slight chamfer of the cam lobes,and a slight chamfer of the lifter od&make sure there isant any nicks or burrs(spurrs for the basketball guys) on the lifter face. like everything else make it as good as possiable before assembly and it will last longer.....unless you effit up.

andy198712 · Posted: Sat Apr 28, 2012 1:35 am Post subject:

polish lift face or not?

i was suprised at the chamfer of a stock cam, will take a pic when i'm next home!

slalombuggy · Posted: Sat Apr 28, 2012 6:14 am Post subject:

Like Neil, I break my cams in with dual springs in place. We do it on other flat tappet motors all the time at work so why should our motors be any different.

I will prefix this by saying if you are running K-motion K-800s or an all out race spring I would only use one spring. My new motor is only going to be broken in with one spring and then pull the heads and put the inners back in.....

brad
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dual valve spring-engine breakin question
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