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tjettom
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Joined: November 09, 2012
Posts: 43
Location: Illinois
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 Posted: Fri Aug 30, 2013 12:41 pm Post subject: Change Intake manifold |
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Hello...I have a new carbon free intake manifold I would like to install along with a Volksbits rebuilt carburetor. With apologies,I know this has been discussed and I have read a lot about it but without having done the work myself (yet), am I just as well to drop the engine first? I had considered using doubled half nuts and removing the generator stand studs without removing the engine. Is that a good idea? Is there a reason the generator stand isn't fastened with bolts instead of the protruding studs.
Thanks in advance for a reply as I am still learning. Being disabled with severe spinal problems, I was hoping not to have to drop the engine unless its easier or necessary. It seems very inconvenient just to change a intake manifold to me.
Thanks,
Tjettom |
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camaroboi13
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| Posted: Fri Aug 30, 2013 12:50 pm Post subject: |
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I just removed the doghouse/alternator combo as a unit, which made things extremely easy after that 
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Multi69s
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Joined: January 24, 2006
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Location: Lefty, CA
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| Posted: Fri Aug 30, 2013 8:21 pm Post subject: |
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As some one else with a bad back, I would suggest that you just leave your old manifold on.
I definitely would not try and remove the fan housing / alt, while it is in the car. There will be a lot of bending over to get it loose. Then you have to lift it over the oil cooler (while bending over). If you have a good floor jack with a sturdy lift base for the engine. Dropping the engine would be easier on your back then trying to pull the fan shroud in the car.
Not much worse then a bad back to cramp your style. Get up in the morning, take a handful of your favorite pain medication and crawl to a chair until it takes affect. 
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Joel
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Joined: September 04, 2006
Posts: 11099
Location: NSW Australia
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| Posted: Fri Aug 30, 2013 8:39 pm Post subject: Re: Change Intake manifold |
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| tjettom wrote: |
| I had considered using doubled half nuts and removing the generator stand studs without removing the engine. Is that a good idea? Is there a reason the generator stand isn't fastened with bolts instead of the protruding studs. |
I've done this with one of my engines, it works well, it's just a bit harder to reseal it and get the baffle plate positions when putting it all back together. |
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tjettom
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Joined: November 09, 2012
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Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Fri Aug 30, 2013 10:26 pm Post subject: |
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If I can remove the generator stand studs by using the half nuts then wouldn't the fan/generator just all slide to the rear of the car thus eliminating the dropping of the engine? Maybe I'm missing something but that approach seems easier to me...No? Isn't the only real problem with removing the fan from the dog house getting the generator base (bracket) over the studs while the fan hits at the top side of the hole in the dog house? I greatly appreciate all fore sight I can gain concerning this issue ...Also, seems like it would also be a pita to change out a generator. Was this an on going design flaw that should of benefited with a better design?
Thanks,
Tom |
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Multi69s
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tjettom
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Joined: November 09, 2012
Posts: 43
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 6:51 am Post subject: |
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COOL BEANS Multi69.... Thanks for the knowledge so I didn't have to find out there would be other obstacles once I started in on it. Seems like removing the studs is the way to go to me. Why isn't this the way (standard procedure) whenever changing the generator etc...? Seems (to me),the engineers could have done a better job with the design....
Thanks,
Tom |
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Multi69s
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Joel
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Location: NSW Australia
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| Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 4:24 pm Post subject: |
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I was looking at my engine I did this to this morn, I've screwed the studs back in on the front 2 but used bolts with the back ones.
It was 6-7 years ago I did it but from memory the rear 2 didn't have enough thread to lock nuts together as mentioned above so I just used vice grips to unscrew them out.
I was only swapping the alternator out on mine and have twin carbs so it was very straight forward but with a stock setup the carb would definetly need removing first but there should be enough room to wiggle the fan out of the shroud with the manifold in place
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tjettom
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Joined: November 09, 2012
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Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 5:20 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the replies and confirming my plan of action with my project at hand. I still can't help to wonder why everyone doesn't use this technique instead of all the work pulling the dog house or dropping the engine. Seems to me an engineering oversight and something Volkswagen should had addressed with a service repair memo.....Maybe others may consider this approach as well? Also, when reinstalling the generator base bracket, bolts and or studs, are the threaded holes into the case through holes and how much care must be used not to use too long of bolts/studs to keep from interfering inside the case?
Thanks again,
Tom |
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Multi69s
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Joel
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Location: NSW Australia
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| Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 3:07 am Post subject: |
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| tjettom wrote: |
| Thanks for the replies and confirming my plan of action with my project at hand. I still can't help to wonder why everyone doesn't use this technique instead of all the work pulling the dog house or dropping the engine. |
The case is only soft so its easy to damage the threads and like I said earlier its a bastard to get the sealant right and baffle in place.
There are other ways around it.
I've also taken the alt pulley off, put a spanner on the flats and undone the big fan nut with a socket so the alt/gen just pulls straight out. |
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volksworld
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| Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 3:56 pm Post subject: |
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| the normal way to remove a gen/alt is to put a vise grip chain wrench around the outer rear edge of the pully(nut tightened) and reach behind the fan shroud with a 36 mm 3/4 drive socket,1/2 inch adaptor and a long handled ratchet and remove the fan nut....pop the fan off the hub and leave it in the fan shroud...removing the 2 lower 10's is tedious(long pattern 10 combo)but once you deal with them,pull carb and belt off and the gen and back plate tilt right out...nobody pulls a motor or fan shroud unless the fan nut has been chiseled to death by a john muir devotee |
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Multi69s
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volksworld
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| Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 7:56 pm Post subject: |
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| I just brought it up cause he seemed to think the standard procedure was to pull the engine and fan housing...since he's only doing a manifold swap modifying the stand might not be a bad idea...and i'm one of those people with a bad back...herniated a disc in 92...and owning a one man shop had to keep working that way...only time I was comfortable was on a creeper...felt like a knife plugged into a 110 outlet when I hit the wrong position...took almost 2 yrs to get back to somewhat normal |
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