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Stereo Installation Help 1971 Beetle
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halte_ginger
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:05 am    Post subject: Stereo Installation Help 1971 Beetle Reply with quote

I have a 1971 beetle, the guy I bought it from left it with a newer stereo installed, but the power is not connected. It seems to have the appropriate wiring harness with it, but i am puzzled at where to connect the power cable from the new stereo to the beetle.
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hobbybob517
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the constant + (memory) goes to the top of the no.8 fuse (12 fuses fuseblock)

the switched 12V goes to the top of no 2 or 3 , your choise.
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Joel
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 2:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

fuse 2 or 3 will be perfect if the radio only needs to when the lights are on Laughing

You need 11 or 12 for ignition power for the ACC wire (usually red). Wink
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Cadaver
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 6:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you can read a road map (schematic) sorry no GPS for that.....

click the top right tab, tech,+ wiring. bingo.

ok all this depends on your needs and your radio.
unsaid.
the radio needs power and ground.
each radio is different.
some have need for memory (newer use FLASH and dont need this wire)
and power antenna wire, (nhah)
ground goes to a body terminal. (find one, add one)
power can go to , the IGnition wire (switched power)

or to, hot all the time, like my stock car has. (radio fuse #10 on right)
there are 2 schematics (at least on that TAB above type 1)
one shows a radio on fuse 10 (right) like mine. Hot full time.
the other drawing has 12 fuses. not 10... so tell me is yours 10 or 12.
both cars have no accessory key position.
so you get 2 choices still hot all time, or Ignition on.
location 12 is ignition, on that second model.
but if you like listening with key off, that wont work.

btw,they sell fues lug expanders, if you run out of plug in points. in the fuse box.
also digikey.com sells the vw type lugs, if you need them,(ask for link)

happy trails.
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hobbybob517
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 11:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joel wrote:
fuse 2 or 3 will be perfect if the radio only needs to when the lights are on Laughing

You need 11 or 12 for ignition power for the ACC wire (usually red). Wink


o yeah, was thinking the wrong way round, sorry.

have my fusebox hanging loose backwards Embarassed
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Cadaver
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 6:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the schematic is clear, the fuse number don't care.

only the wire colors
and where what wires go to which fuse.

its best to look at them all and see if the PO, mixed them all up
in a drunken stupor. (or the like)

my of these cars are wired wrong. so many...
look for wrong amp fuses too.
over fusing is way bad.
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halte_ginger
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It seems the radio/stereo is not on the wiring diagrams
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

halte_ginger wrote:
It seems the radio/stereo is not on the wiring diagrams


That's because the radios were installed at the dealerships, cost about $80.

If you don't know how to use a DC voltmeter ($15) or 12 volt test light ($6) to find live 12 volt + on the fuse block, and to find good ground spots, you proably aren't qualified to install a radio...
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Cadaver
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 6:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

radios , heaters and sometimes, even back seats are optional i n 60s. and before.
some drawings show it , others dont. Code 'R" (see 1968 ,it has it)
but it dont matter,, it's just 2 wires, to play.
1 wire is power
1 wire is ground, (tie the to the body or at the other code 31 point )

so that leaves 1 wire (speakers are unique to the radio, and antenna is obvious ,right?)
that one wire, is power, usually red.

that begs the question, do i want the radio on , key off, or key on.?
if you want the radio power with key off ,wire it like the 1968 schematic shows
to hot full time fuse. (8 and 9)
if not, wire it to the Ignition line. 10,11,12 (use an inline fuse 2amps to RAD)

bingo the radio plays.
but you then discover the radio forgets station settings.
not to worry that goes to fuse 8 (hot all time)
then you wonder why the radio dial lamp is dead?
so you wire that to fuse 1 , parking lamps. bingo dial gloes , first click of HL.

now my other secret, how to connect up to full fuse box.
easy, login to digikey.com buy P/N A27891-ND Female to 2 males.
lighting fast shipping,

left is fuse 1, in my comments.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/bus_8_70_usa.jpg
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mcbump
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2012 7:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Stereo Installation Help 1971 Beetle Reply with quote

halte_ginger wrote:
I have a 1971 beetle, the guy I bought it from left it with a newer stereo installed, but the power is not connected. It seems to have the appropriate wiring harness with it, but i am puzzled at where to connect the power cable from the new stereo to the beetle.


I also have a 1971 bug and want to install a stereo,any tips to connect the power will help.Thanks
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Cadaver
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 6:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

what radio
what actions do you wish to do , to prevent battery discharge.
see fuse 10 1968
see fuse 7 , 1971 , radio. (they dont show the radio ICON just the empty fuse, other documents cover this detail, at VW.
under dealer installed options.
cars very by year, and options. how to do yours, depends on lots of things
even the early 1971 did not have the door key buzzer feature. as posted.
and supers are wired different that standards, so you forgot to say that.

so state how you want it to work?
key in , key out, keyon, key off.
4 choices, pick one.

http://ac-vw-remove.com/stereo.html
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Last edited by Cadaver on Mon Oct 08, 2012 7:20 am; edited 3 times in total
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mondshine
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 7:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're willing to take a little extra time, here's a nice way to power your radio:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


My Retrosound radio requires constant power to maintain station memory and to operate the clock.
The switched power (to operate the radio) is from a standard Bosch relay. The relay receives constant power to terminal 86, and is energized when terminal 85 is grounded through terminal SU on the ignition switch. Terminal SU normally provides ground to the buzzer which sounds when the driver's door is opened and the key is in the ignition switch. The diode is a "1N4005" from Radio Shack; about $1.

Wired this way, the radio will operate with the ignition switched on or off until the key is removed.

Good luck, Mondshine
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 8:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

there is no need at all for any relay
on low powered systems
a relay only has 2 purposes.
for logic, (not needed here)
or for power buffering. also not needed.

the leaving key in ignition for the radio may not make him happy, nor the buzzer actions.

he never said what he wants.?
radio on only with doors closed,
open doors
open doors, key in stalled
or only doors closed ops. only.

it's his choice.
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Last edited by Cadaver on Sun Oct 07, 2012 10:08 am; edited 3 times in total
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mondshine
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As clearly stated in the previous post, the relay is used to operate the radio with the ignition switched off without the risk of draining the battery from inadvertently leaving the radio on. The radio will shut off when the key is removed from the ignition switch.
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TJs73Vert
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2016 8:51 am    Post subject: Re: Stereo Installation Help 1971 Beetle Reply with quote

mondshine wrote:
If you're willing to take a little extra time, here's a nice way to power your radio:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Thanks Mondshine for this diagram, illustrating what i just heard someone describe in a YouTube video when replacing an ignition switch.

QUESTION 1: WHAT'S THE PURPOSE OF THE DIODE? And, what happens without it? Radio Shacks near me have all gone under.

I currently have the radio wired as working with key on only. But I've read some comments suggesting that leaving the key on will fry the points??

QUESTION 2: DOES THIS ALSO APPLY WITH ELECTRONIC IGNITION?

I don't want to accidentally fry anything. Should i switch back to constant hot, only risking a dead battery?

thanks for any advice here!
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mondshine
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2016 10:06 am    Post subject: Re: Stereo Installation Help 1971 Beetle Reply with quote

Here are a couple ideas.
If your car really is a '71, Terminal SU of the ignition switch is connected to ground when the key is inserted. In later models (I mention this because your name is TJs73Vert), Terminal SU provides +12V when the key is inserted.
So check this on your car with your VOM.
The result of this test will determine how you wire the relay.

On my '74 Thing, Terminal SU provides +12V with the key inserted.
Check this link:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=596821

I used the diode (on my '71 Beetle) because I was afraid the relay would be energized when the driver's door was opened, or that current passing through the relay coil would continue through the dome light filament. The diode might have been unnecessary, but I used it anyway. Any car alarm or radio installation shop will sell you a similar diode for $1.

It's not a good idea to keep the ignition switched on without the engine running. Burning up the points or coil is the major concern.
Re: electronic ignition, I don't know if any damage will occur, but why risk it?
If your radio is powered by Terminal SU (through a relay) there will be no need to switch on the ignition just to listen to the radio. When you remove the key, the radio will switch off.

Good luck, Mondshine
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TJs73Vert
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 10:16 pm    Post subject: Re: Stereo Installation Help 1971 Beetle Reply with quote

mondshine wrote:
Here are a couple ideas.
If your car really is a '71, Terminal SU of the ignition switch is connected to ground when the key is inserted. In later models (I mention this because your name is TJs73Vert), Terminal SU provides +12V when the key is inserted.
So check this on your car with your VOM.
The result of this test will determine how you wire the relay.

On my '74 Thing, Terminal SU provides +12V with the key inserted.
Check this link:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=596821

I used the diode (on my '71 Beetle) because I was afraid the relay would be energized when the driver's door was opened, or that current passing through the relay coil would continue through the dome light filament. The diode might have been unnecessary, but I used it anyway. Any car alarm or radio installation shop will sell you a similar diode for $1.

It's not a good idea to keep the ignition switched on without the engine running. Burning up the points or coil is the major concern.
Re: electronic ignition, I don't know if any damage will occur, but why risk it?
If your radio is powered by Terminal SU (through a relay) there will be no need to switch on the ignition just to listen to the radio. When you remove the key, the radio will switch off.

Good luck, Mondshine
thanks for the thorough reply.

My car IS a 73 Super. (Yes that's it pictured)

I read about the variation of positive or negative on the same pin. That's risky. I'll be sure to meter it first.

I don't know anything about diodes so their use is new for me. I'll have to learn more about this because i still don't get how they can help. I was wondering if it prevented the radio from buzzing with the door open. Ha!

I understand using the relay as a switch, activated by the key grounding S pin on insertion.
But if it's a positive and not a negative S pin, I'm not exactly sure of how to wire the relay.

I don't know all the science between electronic ignition and points either. I was only hoping the conversion eliminated whatever this risk is of leaving the key on. No huh? You think they'd have addressed that somehow. At least i now understand why VWs came stock with constant power to the radio.

No one should be running the radio with the car off anyway. It's not a jukebox. I wired it to the ignition circuit to prevent accidental dead battery because most people aren't in habit of turning off modern car radios. But i guess i need to make it idiot proof because you never know.

4 pin bosch relay? Like for a horn etc?
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mondshine
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 5:25 am    Post subject: Re: Stereo Installation Help 1971 Beetle Reply with quote

From what I can tell (guess) looking at my wiring diagrams, if the SU wire at the ignition switch plug is gray, it will be connected to ground when the key is inserted.
If the SU wire is gray/black, it will read +12V when the key is inserted.

Check yours.

If you read +12v at the SU wire (with the key inserted), there is no need for a diode. Just wire it like i illustrated.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The "standard Bosch" relay you buy at any auto parts store will have 4 or 5 terminals. In this case, a 4 terminal (SPST) relay is preferred.
Connect your +12V SU wire to relay 86.
Connect a ground wire to relay 85.
Connect an "always hot" 12V source to relay 30.
Connect your radio's switched power feed to relay 87.

That's all there is to it.
Good luck, Mondshine
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cusser wrote:

If you don't know how to use a DC voltmeter ($15) or 12 volt test light ($6) to find live 12 volt + on the fuse block, and to find good ground spots, you proably aren't qualified to install a radio...


This. It's a 1 minute job with a test light.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hotsam wrote:
Cusser wrote:

If you don't know how to use a DC voltmeter ($15) or 12 volt test light ($6) to find live 12 volt + on the fuse block, and to find good ground spots, you proably aren't qualified to install a radio...


This. It's a 1 minute job with a test light.


    Well thanks so much for your informative post! I thought it might take an hour! Which would most likely be too hard for me. But if it only takes a minute I'm sure i could handle that!

    Quoting a condescending smart remark to question my competency with (affordable) basic tools was also very helpful. You obviously have a natural talent for contributing just the appropriate comment at any given time. So gifted! Praise YOU. Rolling Eyes
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