Steps to take to protect your engine from overheating

[75bus4/me]

With summer just around the corner. I want to make sure I have done what I can to protect my engine from overheating.
Things done:
Oil change
Valves adjusted
Timing set
All engine tin in place
All foam seals in place
All holes plugged
Spark plugs properly gaped

Things I do not have:
Tin on bottom of motor under exhaust manifolds

1975 bay window 2.0, single Weber,
thanks
Gerry
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1975 Bay Window {Big Red}

[RatCamper]

So... Is there a question?
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Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based pop-top camper (LCA / Sunliner). Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.

[75bus4/me]

[RatCamper]

[SGKent]

check your air to fuel ratio and shoot for around 13.1 - 13.3 at 65 mph. Set your timing to 28 BTDC at full in with no vacuum and then reattach the vacuum hose if you have one. Use the engine timing scale and not the one on some HF light.
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Steve aka Merlin the Wrench

formerly Steve's Racing and Engine Blueprinting. Wrenching since 1967.

bdamico on GF wrote

[75bus4/me]

I did do the times as you described but set my carburetor by ear. Before setting my carburetor it ran like crap and would fall flat on its face when accelerating.
Here is a picture of the bottom are the cylinder vanes the fines that surround the cylinders?


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1975 Bay Window {Big Red}

[RatCamper]

[75bus4/me]

[Wildthings]

If you don't have the tins under the cylinder head, you shouldn't run a thermostat as the air passing under the bus may keep the thermostat from heating up fully. This may be more of a cold weather problem than a warm weather one though.

Do you have the boot that seals the oil pressure switch to the tin and the boot that supplies cooling air to the alternator?

[Manfreds78bay]

Those tins you are missing are very important to cooling your engine. My guess is that you will have over heating issues.


Those bear heat exchange pipers are going to give off a lot of heat which is going to go right up into your cylinder heads.

Usually that heat is moved away from the engine by the fan. You might be okay as long as you are moving, but if you get stuck in traffic that engine is going to over heat.

I'm sure there are plenty of people that will chime in that will say they have run that type of setup for years, but my advice is to run the correct setup.

[Bleyseng]

[copellos]

how about a aux oil cooler with a fan. anyone know a good source

[Wildthings]

Synthetic oils can handle the heat generated in the heads and cylinders better than dino oil.

[thewalrus]

[Wildthings]

[RatCamper]

I've done the calculations and a Weber only flows slightly less maximum CFM than stock dual Solex carbs. The Weber is also good for a max of about a 2.3L motor I think? So there's no airflow issues. If anything the long runners help with constant throttle application if fuel dropout isn't an issue. Before someone says it my Weber was totally responsive, didn't bog and there wasn't really any throttle delay. Well, Holley Economaster. Same thing really.
I rejetted it and am using it on the Subaru motor now and it's every bit as happy as it was on the Type 4. There is nothing wrong with a well set up progressive.
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Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based pop-top camper (LCA / Sunliner). Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.

[bugger101]

[grandpa pete]

I was listening to a discussion about anyone using "J" tubes should put a home made shield between the "J" tubes and the valve covers . Howard is a retired engineer and has several articles published in hot vw,s
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69 tintop camper 1600 DP

[XXX/Rx/RnR]

I have the same setup except with pipes. Blocked off the air that went to the exchangers from the fan. I live in Chandler, Az. No over heating issues. Cut the flanges off those exchangers and weld in stright pipes. That will cut down alot of weight. No need for shields. The air blowing down from betweent the cylinders will blow the exhaust heat away from the heads. Been running this way for about ten years now. That looks like a S&S header you have. Where did you get that? I will be needing one soon. Thats a bunch of bull when people say you need heatexchangers, or I would of had a failure a long tome ago. I drive pedal to the metal.

[75bus4/me]

Do you have the boot that seals the oil pressure switch to the tin and the boot that supplies cooling air to the alternator?[/quote]

I don’t know where to look or what they look like. I need to look for a diagram in my Bentley.
Can someone explain how the tin on the bottom works to cool? Does it take air from the motor outlets and blow across? or air from under the bus and blow it across?

Gerry
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1975 Bay Window {Big Red}