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Double hayabusa exhaust
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streetbuggy8804
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 7:16 am    Post subject: Double hayabusa exhaust Reply with quote

I have been through many exhausts on my buggy and I am still not happy. I was thinking about putting on a baja header with two hayabusa exhaust canisters. I can't post pics from my I-phone but it would look like the style exhaust that the Hawaiian dune buggy club guys use. Any thoughts on the functionality of this system? I want to make sure it's functional as well as pretty.
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Mr. Unpopular
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I run a single muffler from a street bike on my bug. I really like it. It's a very muted mellow sound, kinda like a subaru.

Many will say street bike mufflers won't work on cars because they aren't sized properly, but an exhaust designed to flow 180hp through a street bike motor will surely flow enough for a normal street VW engine. I notice no performance difference between no muffler and the street bike muffler on my 1600 with ICT's.
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MURZI
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

quiet......and easy to fab

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73SpeedBuggy
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 5:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you tried Supertrapps? They're basically a motorcycle muffler but they're highly customizable for your application:
http://supertrapp.com/product_sections/universal/index.asp
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didget69
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 5:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

73SpeedBuggy wrote:
Have you tried Supertrapps? They're basically a motorcycle muffler but they're highly customizable for your application:
http://supertrapp.com/product_sections/universal/index.asp


Unless you have access to a dyno to tune the 'trapp, you're guessing at the results... and may be creating backpressure in the system that kills power. However, I don't deny the tunability factor - I've had good results with Supertrapp mufflers, but took the time to tune it.

bnc
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sandsquirt
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sure everybody has a "Butt Dyno". I think you have the best options going the Supertrap route. Good Luck.
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didget69
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 4:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sandsquirt wrote:
I'm sure everybody has a "Butt Dyno". I think you have the best options going the Supertrap route. Good Luck.


And chrome tinware is good for an additional 5 horsepower -

Be certain to mount your remote oil cooler over the fan intake for maximum cooling... and remove the flaps & thermostat for maximum engine cooling.

You don't need functional heat risers on the header if you are running a single carb -

And for a true performance motor, the 009 distributor is da bomb!

Laughing

bnc
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Wayne26
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

didget69 wrote:

And chrome tinware is good for an additional 5 horsepower -

Be certain to mount your remote oil cooler over the fan intake for maximum cooling... and remove the flaps & thermostat for maximum engine cooling.

You don't need functional heat risers on the header if you are running a single carb -

And for a true performance motor, the 009 distributor is da bomb!

Laughing

bnc



Thanks! I just did all that and must have gained 20hp.

I think the chrome tin was closer to 10hp, so I sent my distributor cap, rotor and plug wires out to have them chromed. Idea
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LeeVW
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, no - not the cap, that's supposed to be clear!

I actually had one of those on my rail buggy. Turned out it wasn't the best quality but I have to admit it looked cool!

Lee
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MURZI
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am using 150hp paint on all my builds. Can't tell you guys where to get it though. Proprietary secret. Laughing Laughing

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But I will tell you I only use Stainless muffler bearings....just too many bad experiences with that Taiwan chrome. And I "knife edge profile" all my distributor rotors for decreased air resistance.....learned that one night at a Holiday Inn Express Laughing Laughing

just all the little BS that adds up and makes you a great BS'r. Cool Cool
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1968 BAJA http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b374/MURZI/testmule/
My old Dune Buggy http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b374/MURZI/

Quit playing...build a 2276 and be done with it.......
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GTBRADLEY
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just dont forget to keep the Blinker fluid full! You could get pulled over for lack of it Laughing
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didget69
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MURZI wrote:
I am using 150hp paint on all my builds. Can't tell you guys where to get it though. Proprietary secret. Laughing Laughing

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

But I will tell you I only use Stainless muffler bearings....just too many bad experiences with that Taiwan chrome. And I "knife edge profile" all my distributor rotors for decreased air resistance.....learned that one night at a Holiday Inn Express Laughing Laughing

just all the little BS that adds up and makes you a great BS'r. Cool Cool


Pffft... looks like common fence paint to me -

And cross-drilled pistons relieve that nasty internal crankcase pressure.

For you serious horsepower guys, I do have a big question though... I've got a 1835 turboed motor that I've had for awhile and wanted to get more performance out of it.

It was recommended that I 'port and polish' the intake and exhaust. Me and a buddy found out that the tuner shops use abrasive material to port intakes & exhausts. I then got with my other friend that tunes Hondas and we decided to try it ourselves. We got a bag of sandblasting sand and hooked up a tube to go from the sandbag into the intake and started the car. We had to hold the gas wide-open so it would run. My buddy wanted to let the engine suck in the sand through the intake so it would port it out, and then figured it'd push the sand out the exhaust so it would port the exhaust manifold at the same time.

I was worried that it might cause problems, but he figured it'd be OK as long as we didn't make boost and allow any sand to get sucked in the turbo. After running the car at 5,000 rpm and letting it suck in sand we got about half way through a 25 lb bag. The oil light was on and the engine was bucking and kicking and sounding really weird. We stopped and hooked the car back up normal and took off the sand supply. We tried to start it again, but it was really hard. Once started it couldn't idle, and it kept making weird noises. We took it out and drove it and it started to make scraping and knocking noises.

Help! Can anyone tell me what to do? My buddy only does Hondas, so he doesn't know much about VWs...

bnc
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MURZI
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Common mistake.....shoulda fogged the intakes with PAM cooking spray. nothing would of stuck. Man if you would have called first.......

just chalk it up to experience......
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PENNY LOAFER MAFIA..step up or step back...
1962 Beetle Convertible http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b374/MURZI/new%2062%20vert/
1968 BAJA http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b374/MURZI/testmule/
My old Dune Buggy http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b374/MURZI/

Quit playing...build a 2276 and be done with it.......
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didget69
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good Luck & the folks here CAN give you good advice! Wink

bnc
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Last edited by didget69 on Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:36 pm; edited 1 time in total
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73SpeedBuggy
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

didget69 wrote:

For you serious horsepower guys, I do have a big question though... I've got a 1835 turboed motor that I've had for awhile and wanted to get more performance out of it.

It was recommended that I 'port and polish' the intake and exhaust. Me and a buddy found out that the tuner shops use abrasive material to port intakes & exhausts. I then got with my other friend that tunes Hondas and we decided to try it ourselves. We got a bag of sandblasting sand and hooked up a tube to go from the sandbag into the intake and started the car. We had to hold the gas wide-open so it would run. My buddy wanted to let the engine suck in the sand through the intake so it would port it out, and then figured it'd push the sand out the exhaust so it would port the exhaust manifold at the same time.

I was worried that it might cause problems, but he figured it'd be OK as long as we didn't make boost and allow any sand to get sucked in the turbo. After running the car at 5,000 rpm and letting it suck in sand we got about half way through a 25 lb bag. The oil light was on and the engine was bucking and kicking and sounding really weird. We stopped and hooked the car back up normal and took off the sand supply. We tried to start it again, but it was really hard. Once started it couldn't idle, and it kept making weird noises. We took it out and drove it and it started to make scraping and knocking noises.

Help! Can anyone tell me what to do? My buddy only does Hondas, so he doesn't know much about VWs...

bnc


Hah.. you had me going there for a minute!
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didget69
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

73SpeedBuggy wrote:

Hah.. you had me going there for a minute!


I can no longer, in good faith, recommend the GEX Performance tuning method... Laughing

bnc
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streetbuggy8804
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You guys are all failed comedians. Just picked up some Suzuki TLR pipes for $50. Gonna use my tri-mill header and connect the two pipes. Should match the look of the buggy really well as well as sound good. I was doing some tuning work on the buggy yesterday and some old bag came down to complain about the noise. Open stinger isn't gonna work anymore.
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streetbuggy8804
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You guys are all failed comedians. Just picked up some Suzuki TLR pipes for $50. Gonna use my tri-mill header and connect the two pipes. Should match the look of the buggy really well as well as sound good. I was doing some tuning work on the buggy yesterday and some old bag came down to complain about the noise. Open stinger isn't gonna work anymore.
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MURZI
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My baja is so quiet at idle I can barely hear the engine at all at stop signs. Really....... Like whisper quiet.
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PENNY LOAFER MAFIA..step up or step back...
1962 Beetle Convertible http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b374/MURZI/new%2062%20vert/
1968 BAJA http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b374/MURZI/testmule/
My old Dune Buggy http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b374/MURZI/

Quit playing...build a 2276 and be done with it.......
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didget69
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

streetbuggy8804 wrote:
You guys are all failed comedians.


Nope. We're more than simply broke college students... we don't take ourselves too seriously.

bnc
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