| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
TOURJEE Samba Member

Joined: July 18, 2006 Posts: 75 Location: Prescott AZ
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
GeorgeO. Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2010 Posts: 526 Location: Menifee, CA
|
Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 6:06 pm Post subject: Pull the drums |
|
|
When I started my project, I'm sure there was a Brown Recluse as well as a couple of Black Widows in all the spider webs I encountered. One of the first things I had to do is pull the rear drums, since sitting for 17 years, I needed to check the wheel cylinders and the condition of the drums. I replaced everything including the rubber hoses. So far its running, stopping and once I replace the rear bearings I start the interior next.
 |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
RatCamper Samba Member

Joined: November 13, 2008 Posts: 3307 Location: Australia
|
Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 7:55 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Last time I took the stone guard off the front there was a redback nest. Every time I go near the wheels there are either redbacks or whitetails.
I'd take redbacks any day. Although for some reason the officials won't acknowledge one of the worst things about white tail bites. It causes a slow steady dissolving of the flesh. Lots of people have had this happen. Even my mother has. Big chunk of her leg just sort of eaten away inside. Awful things.
Thanks for the advice, busdaddy. What do I do about the threaded bit being seized though? I got the stars going. _________________ Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based pop-top camper (LCA / Sunliner). Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
busdaddy Samba Member

Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 23859 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, Land of the giant flying moose!
|
Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 8:55 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Pull the star out and heat it up with the propane torch, then stick someting flat through the slot in the threaded part and twist (star still in the vice grips of course). Or clamp the end of the threaded part in a vice and twist the star, iy may only move a hair to begin with, lots of penetrating oil and heat and repeat as necessary. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
RatCamper Samba Member

Joined: November 13, 2008 Posts: 3307 Location: Australia
|
Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 9:33 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Sounds like a plan. Give it a shot tomorrow I hope. Today I think I'll just give it another spray and a few test taps. _________________ Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based pop-top camper (LCA / Sunliner). Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
RatCamper Samba Member

Joined: November 13, 2008 Posts: 3307 Location: Australia
|
Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 12:15 am Post subject: |
|
|
Tried again. Still no go. I'll have to dismantle and attack the adjustor on its own. I'm more than a little curious as to why it is seized because it looks pretty good. _________________ Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based pop-top camper (LCA / Sunliner). Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
onion456 Samba Member

Joined: September 09, 2006 Posts: 666 Location: Houston, TX
|
Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 2:29 pm Post subject: |
|
|
oh man, i wish i had seen this thread sooner.
use a big flathead screwdriver and unscrew the adjusters from the stars. go the the hardware store and buy some long-ish bolts the same thread size... thread em into your stars until they bottom out, and then keep going- they will push your stars right out.
clean up the star body on the belt sander, use moly grease when reinstalling... they will spin like new! _________________ '76 Sage Green Westy 2.0 FI
'76 Creamsicle 7-passenger 2.0 CS FI
'85 Tan Westy |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
VDubTech Samba Member

Joined: December 29, 2002 Posts: 8548 Location: Syracuse, NY
|
Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 3:11 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| onion456 wrote: | | clean up the star body on the belt sander |
Ummm...belt sander? A simple file or even a wire brush will do the job quite nicely and not destroy the star or your hand when it's flung across the garage. A belt sander is ridiculous overkill for what you're trying to do. _________________ First Trip in the RustyBus:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=279077&highlight=
| borninabus wrote: | | a measurement of your rod would be extremely useful. |
| notchboy wrote: | | my dad wasnt a belittling cock when he tought me how to wrench on cars. |
| EverettB wrote: | One photo = good for reference.
10 photos = douchebaggery |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
busdaddy Samba Member

Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 23859 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, Land of the giant flying moose!
|
Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 3:17 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| VDubTech wrote: | | A belt sander is ridiculous overkill for what you're trying to do. |
Oh come on!, a job isn't worth doing if you can't do it with power tools! and bigger is always better!  _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
ccpalmer  Samba Member

Joined: September 17, 2006 Posts: 3518 Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
|
Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 3:28 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| busdaddy wrote: | | VDubTech wrote: | | A belt sander is ridiculous overkill for what you're trying to do. |
Oh come on!, a job isn't worth doing if you can't do it with power tools! and bigger is always better!  |
True; I wouldn't use anything less than a lathe.  _________________ '71 Westy
'77 Bay/rusty shed on wheels
--
Chris Palmer
Cocobolo Co., LLC
ccpalmer.com |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
onion456 Samba Member

Joined: September 09, 2006 Posts: 666 Location: Houston, TX
|
Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 6:13 pm Post subject: |
|
|
lol, i have a small hobby belt sander, made by dremel, that is perfect for small jobs like this.
 _________________ '76 Sage Green Westy 2.0 FI
'76 Creamsicle 7-passenger 2.0 CS FI
'85 Tan Westy |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
RatCamper Samba Member

Joined: November 13, 2008 Posts: 3307 Location: Australia
|
Posted: Tue May 08, 2012 4:06 pm Post subject: |
|
|
So I unhooked the shoes, totally forgetting about the handbrake cable of course. Then just decided to leave it all sort of there because the adjusters were cleared and that was my goal anyway.
Took out the frozen one, gave it a wipe off and cleaned the congealed brake dust out of the threads. I have absolutely no idea why the adjuster thread is frozen. I was expecting to see a rusty horrible mess behind the star. No such thing. It's shiny in there. I suppose the next step is to pull out the propane torch and hope that it still has gas. Once that runs out I can't refill it Stupid Australia. _________________ Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based pop-top camper (LCA / Sunliner). Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
VDubTech Samba Member

Joined: December 29, 2002 Posts: 8548 Location: Syracuse, NY
|
Posted: Tue May 08, 2012 4:18 pm Post subject: |
|
|
You don't need heat. You need vice grips and a big ass flat head screwdriver. Hold the star with the vice grips, turn the big ass flathead sideways and turn the adjuster out of the star. Like I said originally, this is a 5 minute job. _________________ First Trip in the RustyBus:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=279077&highlight=
| borninabus wrote: | | a measurement of your rod would be extremely useful. |
| notchboy wrote: | | my dad wasnt a belittling cock when he tought me how to wrench on cars. |
| EverettB wrote: | One photo = good for reference.
10 photos = douchebaggery |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
RatCamper Samba Member

Joined: November 13, 2008 Posts: 3307 Location: Australia
|
Posted: Tue May 08, 2012 4:59 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| VDubTech wrote: | | You don't need heat. You need vice grips and a big ass flat head screwdriver. Hold the star with the vice grips, turn the big ass flathead sideways and turn the adjuster out of the star. Like I said originally, this is a 5 minute job. |
I can do that. Might have a shot at it shortly. My drum brake toolkit pretty much just consists of a big ass screwdriver anyway so I'm set.
After that's done, on to the other side, but probably not today. Been flat out with lots of other things recently. on top of that the 3 point safety harness I bought for the back seat of my bay arrived. Still not sure if I should leave installing that until after inspection though. _________________ Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based pop-top camper (LCA / Sunliner). Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
RatCamper Samba Member

Joined: November 13, 2008 Posts: 3307 Location: Australia
|
Posted: Tue May 08, 2012 7:23 pm Post subject: |
|
|
That worked a treat. I slapped that side back together for now. When I get some time I'll adjust the brakes and do the other side.
After that I'll have to see if I have the huge socket for the castle nut or not. Have to find out why those bearings are loose. _________________ Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based pop-top camper (LCA / Sunliner). Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
RatCamper Samba Member

Joined: November 13, 2008 Posts: 3307 Location: Australia
|
Posted: Wed May 09, 2012 1:01 am Post subject: |
|
|
I got through my brain fart and went on to get the rest of the first side, and all of the second side done promptly.
There's essentially no free play in the pedal now with the engine off. Hard from the top. Next up the hand brake.
What is worrying me is it was apparent that the shoes were sorely overdue for adjustment. That means that currently they are sitting differently and the adjustment will probably change after a few good hard braking sessions. When they do the lateral force test or whatever it is on the brakes that could cause an issue. Pretty much they get up to a certain speed and hit the anchors while they have a special machine on board with accelerometers etc. I have also seen one with a pedal pressure sensor. Depending the either generate a sheet of figures or a graph. If it isn't so hot it fails inspection. _________________ Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based pop-top camper (LCA / Sunliner). Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Stuartzickefoose Samba Post Whore
Joined: February 07, 2008 Posts: 5373 Location: Edmonds, WA.
|
Posted: Wed May 09, 2012 6:30 am Post subject: |
|
|
i may be wrong on this, but have heard, and done, this to avoid the whole "reset by hard braking" thing. get the drums on, wheels up off the ground, and adjust each adjuster until its tight, then keep adjusting it till you cant turn the star anymore, then go step on the brakes a few times firmly. then back the star off, and as soon as the wheel spins freely, set it so it JUST touches the drum lining. then repeat on each star.
anyone else want to tell my im wrong? i was curious about it anyways....id love to be told its done a different way.... _________________ MINE - 1978 Westfalia ~ Maisy ~ FI, Hydraulic Valves, Electronic Points, 2.0 (NEED A SET OF HEADS, PM ME IF YOU HAVE A SET)
DAD's - 1972 Westfalia ~ Sticky ~ 1.7(?) 914 motor, allison electronic ignition, electric fuel pump, dual webers w/o choke.
“Don't cry because it's over, smile because it happened.”
“Those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind.” |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
RatCamper Samba Member

Joined: November 13, 2008 Posts: 3307 Location: Australia
|
Posted: Wed May 09, 2012 1:53 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Stuartzickefoose wrote: | i may be wrong on this, but have heard, and done, this to avoid the whole "reset by hard braking" thing. get the drums on, wheels up off the ground, and adjust each adjuster until its tight, then keep adjusting it till you cant turn the star anymore, then go step on the brakes a few times firmly. then back the star off, and as soon as the wheel spins freely, set it so it JUST touches the drum lining. then repeat on each star.
anyone else want to tell my im wrong? i was curious about it anyways....id love to be told its done a different way.... |
No, that's more or less how I did it. Started off with the adjusters right in, wound them out until contact, kept spinning the wheel, when the friction didn't fade I'd go stomp on the pedal a few times. Repeat the process until the friction doesn't go away, back it off a few teeth and begin again on the other side.
On the left I was a little confused by the friction when I had barely started. Thought about it a bit and tried the pedal which had a large dead spot up top. So i went and just kept winding and spinning until the friction disappeared. Kept on going further until it reappeared and it was business as usual.
Unless I'm wrong it is pretty much the best way to do it because it re centres the shoes in the drum each time the pedal is pressed.
I'm looking forward to the result of adjusting the handbrake. It has gotten so pathetic as to be nearly useless. _________________ Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based pop-top camper (LCA / Sunliner). Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Stuartzickefoose Samba Post Whore
Joined: February 07, 2008 Posts: 5373 Location: Edmonds, WA.
|
Posted: Wed May 09, 2012 2:52 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| RatCamper wrote: | | Stuartzickefoose wrote: | i may be wrong on this, but have heard, and done, this to avoid the whole "reset by hard braking" thing. get the drums on, wheels up off the ground, and adjust each adjuster until its tight, then keep adjusting it till you cant turn the star anymore, then go step on the brakes a few times firmly. then back the star off, and as soon as the wheel spins freely, set it so it JUST touches the drum lining. then repeat on each star.
anyone else want to tell my im wrong? i was curious about it anyways....id love to be told its done a different way.... |
No, that's more or less how I did it. Started off with the adjusters right in, wound them out until contact, kept spinning the wheel, when the friction didn't fade I'd go stomp on the pedal a few times. Repeat the process until the friction doesn't go away, back it off a few teeth and begin again on the other side.
On the left I was a little confused by the friction when I had barely started. Thought about it a bit and tried the pedal which had a large dead spot up top. So i went and just kept winding and spinning until the friction disappeared. Kept on going further until it reappeared and it was business as usual.
Unless I'm wrong it is pretty much the best way to do it because it re centres the shoes in the drum each time the pedal is pressed.
I'm looking forward to the result of adjusting the handbrake. It has gotten so pathetic as to be nearly useless. |
my handbrake gets better every time i adjust my brakes...thats how i know they need adjusting  _________________ MINE - 1978 Westfalia ~ Maisy ~ FI, Hydraulic Valves, Electronic Points, 2.0 (NEED A SET OF HEADS, PM ME IF YOU HAVE A SET)
DAD's - 1972 Westfalia ~ Sticky ~ 1.7(?) 914 motor, allison electronic ignition, electric fuel pump, dual webers w/o choke.
“Don't cry because it's over, smile because it happened.”
“Those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind.” |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
RatCamper Samba Member

Joined: November 13, 2008 Posts: 3307 Location: Australia
|
Posted: Wed May 09, 2012 3:52 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Stuartzickefoose wrote: |
my handbrake gets better every time i adjust my brakes...thats how i know they need adjusting  |
You made me wonder. i just ducked out side and applied the handbrake six notches, which is where I should feel both wheels start to grab. Still free spinning so the handbrake is out of adjustment too. No big deal. _________________ Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based pop-top camper (LCA / Sunliner). Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|