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Swing axle rear bearing installation
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Tdog71
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 1:34 pm    Post subject: Swing axle rear bearing installation Reply with quote

I am just about to remove the trans-axle with tubes attached (1967). I understand how to use a puller to pull the axle tube off of the axle with bearings still on, but I was wondering what the procedure is for putting the new bearings on. Yes, I have the bentley manual, but all it says is to use a "drift". I have no idea what that means.
1. Does one install the bearings on the axle ends when the transaxle is out of the car ? easier ?
2. how do you press on the bearing ?


Last edited by Tdog71 on Tue May 15, 2012 2:29 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Ace
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A "drift" is basically a brass hammer as to not mar or scratch the harder axle or bearing when hitting it.
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Tdog71
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ace wrote:
A "drift" is basically a brass hammer as to not mar or scratch the harder axle or bearing when hitting it.


Does one strike the bearing on the inner or outer ring area ?
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silver66
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 2:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually a drift is like a big punch. You know the kind to reccess nails into lets say wooden window moldings just bigger. If you don't have one maybe use a screwdriver with the tip cut off or something similar, and you want to hit the bearing on the inner ring and don't just hit it in one spot work your way around the bearing until you seat it.
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Tdog71
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

silver66 wrote:
Actually a drift is like a big punch. You know the kind to reccess nails into lets say wooden window moldings just bigger. If you don't have one maybe use a screwdriver with the tip cut off or something similar, and you want to hit the bearing on the inner ring and don't just hit it in one spot work your way around the bearing until you seat it.

Thank you. I will see what I can find. I may have a pipe that is just bigger than the axle. That might do the trick too
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blue77bay
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

find a piece of pipe that goes over the axle,but is the same size as the inner race ,use that as your drift,that way you cant slip or get the bearing jammed by not hitting it squarely
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Tdog71
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

blue77bay wrote:
find a piece of pipe that goes over the axle,but is the same size as the inner race ,use that as your drift,that way you cant slip or get the bearing jammed by not hitting it squarely

Thanks. If any old timers know the pipe size for that exact task, I will stop by the hardware store tonight and make one
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Dr OnHolliday
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brass punches are sold (or homemade) to protect the item being "punched" (ie softer than steel) Eastwood used to sell them.

When using a drift / punch to remove a roller/ball bearing, you drive the race that is "fixed" on the axle or in the housing - beating on the non-fixed race will just destroy the bearing.
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drscope
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Installing the bearing is easy. Removing it is not.

You can actually use a piece of PVC pipe to push the bearing on. It should go on very easily.

Or use a piece of wood or even a hammer handle.

No need to make a trip to the hardware store for this job!
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Tdog71
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

drscope wrote:
Installing the bearing is easy. Removing it is not.

You can actually use a piece of PVC pipe to push the bearing on. It should go on very easily.

Or use a piece of wood or even a hammer handle.

No need to make a trip to the hardware store for this job!

This video shows the puller method for removal. I will be taking the old axles out to use in my new transaxle. Any problem with the way he's doing this ? on YouTube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j1ZMKYfNLWw&feature=youtube_gdata_player
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old DKP driver
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 6:57 pm    Post subject: axle tube Reply with quote

Yepp, I see a problem with this video. Laughing

I could have built a bench to set the transmission on in the time it
took him trying to remove the snapring with those Dinky pliers. Embarassed

The puller worked and thats all you need besides the Large tipped
snapring pliers and~Safety glasses.
Long pants too if you are working on the floor.
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EVfun
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When growing up I remember a puller that clamped around the bearing outer race and then you pulled that off with a 2 jaw puller. I've also tapped one off with a sharp metal chisel by digging into the exposed part of the outer race. Once any such efforts are undertaken the bearing needs to be replaced.
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Dubbydubdub
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

for re-installation. that shouldn't be the difficult part, i've been able to put the bearing back on without hitting the inside race. Clean off the axle spline with a wire brush, lube it with some tranny fluid and it should slide on.
Snort wrote:
I've had these photos sitting around for a while, now's as good a time as any to post them up. These are all Oval axle tube photos, yours will be nearly identical.

First the bare axle tube bearing recess.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Next the inner spacer.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Install bearing by tapping on the inner race.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Washer and small O-ring.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Outer bearing spacer.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Backing plate.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Large O-ring, hard to see on the early ones, they sit right in the backing plate space.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Paper gasket.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Bearing cap with seal installed.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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Tdog71
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 8:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great information and pictures. Quick question. Once I have my old tubes and axles off and inserted into new transaxle with the gear + fulcrum plates , when do I add the fluid ? I'm guessing its after its installed back on car with bearing covers back on. Where do I add the fluid and how much ?
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buickman_86
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you will add the fluid in the transmission fill hole on the drivers side it takes a 17mm allen head i belive is what it was. i just replaced my transmission on my 63 last weekend. worst part was the axel nut was stuck and the tulcrum plates moved before i got it all back togeather so i had to re position them.

awsome illistration bearing and gasket install
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Tdog71
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

buickman_86 wrote:
you will add the fluid in the transmission fill hole on the drivers side it takes a 17mm allen head i belive is what it was. i just replaced my transmission on my 63 last weekend. worst part was the axel nut was stuck and the tulcrum plates moved before i got it all back togeather so i had to re position them.

awsome illistration bearing and gasket install

I take it you added the fluid after it was back in car and bearings sealed up ? Adding the fluid while out of car would mean it would all leak out through the axle tubes, at least that is how I see it. First timer here
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buickman_86
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes you will have to add it after it is back on the car and the the seals are in place i filled mine up and found out i cut the large o ring Shocked and had a big leak so i got to re do that not as much fun with the new oil running out lol
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Tdog71
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

buickman_86 wrote:
yes you will have to add it after it is back on the car and the the seals are in place i filled mine up and found out i cut the large o ring Shocked and had a big leak so i got to re do that not as much fun with the new oil running out lol

I was surprised how stuck the old oil seal was in the wheel bearing cover. Did you just tap the new ones in from the outside ?
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The seals go in from the inside. Maybe thats why they are so stuck if you are trying to drive them out the wrong way.

Also, while you have the transmission out of the car, make sure you check to see that the fill plug is loose! It really sucks to find out it's stuck when it's in the car with very little room to work.

Don't put fluid in until evrything is finished and the brake drums are on and axle nuts are TIGHT! Otherwise, you will get leaks past your new seals and onto your new brake shoes and clean floor.
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Tdog71
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

drscope wrote:
The seals go in from the inside. Maybe thats why they are so stuck if you are trying to drive them out the wrong way.

Also, while you have the transmission out of the car, make sure you check to see that the fill plug is loose! It really sucks to find out it's stuck when it's in the car with very little room to work.

Don't put fluid in until evrything is finished and the brake drums are on and axle nuts are TIGHT! Otherwise, you will get leaks past your new seals and onto your new brake shoes and clean floor.

This is where I am getting confused. See here: http://www.superbeetles.com/Tech_talk/jul3.htm
This looks like he is putting the seal on from the outside, unless this is an IRS ?
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