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FPCT Samba Member
Joined: May 17, 2012 Posts: 13 Location: Portugal
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Posted: Thu May 17, 2012 11:48 am Post subject: VW Beetle 1966 - Distributor |
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Hello guys,
I have been reading this forum for quite some time, it contains a lot of posts with useful information for VW guys, but now I will be doing my share of posting
Recently I bought a VW Beetle 1966, in Portugal, that its in good shape, although in the future I will do a top to bottom restoration, but for now I need some feedback about the distributor.
Here is some data on the car and some pics:
VIN: 116 933 174
Carb: VW 75-1 / B6 157
Color: L 633 (14) VW blue (it seems thats the color he has on)
The first time when I saw the engine I asked myself: "This distributor has a vacuum hose? "
I thought that the 30 PICT-1 did not use a vacuum hose but it seems it does.
From the little information I can provide at the moment I would like to know if:
- the distributor is the correct one?
- is there any better distributor for this engine? (SVDA, Etc...)
FPCT
Last edited by FPCT on Thu May 17, 2012 3:39 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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glutamodo The Android
Joined: July 13, 2004 Posts: 26298 Location: Douglas, WY
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Posted: Thu May 17, 2012 12:40 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, all bugs in the mid 60s had vacuum-only advance distributors... so they all had vacuum hoses. (and no, these are not SVDA, which are not appropriate for the 30PICT-1 or any of the 30-series carbs)
What you have appears to be correct - the picture is so small it's hard to tell though. You didn't list your distributor number, which will be facing away from you as you look at the engine. It looks like a 113905205K and that is one of the ones you'd want to use with that late 66 1300-only carb.
Actually, I clicked on the photos and found the larger versions. (also had Avast antivirus come up with a warning and blocked something potentially bad... )
Anyhow, here's the larger version of that engine photo:
It looks pretty original.
In comparison, here's a factory photo of the 1966 1300 engine. (early version, without the spring on the carburetor)
-Andy
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FPCT Samba Member
Joined: May 17, 2012 Posts: 13 Location: Portugal
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Posted: Thu May 17, 2012 2:14 pm Post subject: |
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Blocked something potentially bad? perhaps its the popup that shows the small picture. I used Image Shak for the pictures, don't know if was the reason for the Anti Virus kick in.
Anyway, thanks for the feedback Glutamodo
As soon as I return to PT I will get the number of the distributor and update the post.
One other thing, I want to keep the Beetle all original, haven't drive it a lot yet so don't know if theres flat spots (read some folks here that have them) or if theres something that I could do to improve, is there?
The engine has some years on it so a rebuild is in the to do list |
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glutamodo The Android
Joined: July 13, 2004 Posts: 26298 Location: Douglas, WY
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Posted: Thu May 17, 2012 2:28 pm Post subject: |
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The only reason that combination would have acceleration flat spots would be due to equipment malfunction (like if the vacuum advance canister was bad or the advance plate sticking... or if the accelerator pump in the carburetor was bad, or manifold vacuum leaks), otherwise that should be a smooth runner set up as it is now.
However, that carb is designed for a 1300 - it lacks a power fuel system for high speed enrichment. If you up-size the engine to a 1600 as most 1300s end up, that's not the best carb for it, it will restrict your power at the higher end. VW had a different 30PICT-1 with the power fuel system for 1500 engines, and that's probably my favorite VW-Solex carb.
I think it was one of ImageShack's advertising pop-up ads that Avast nailed as a threat. I don't know much about those free file hosting sites, I seldom go there, as I have an FTP allotment that I pay for where I host most of my own images, that plus TheSamba's Photo Gallery, which is free.
-Andy |
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61SNRF Samba Member
Joined: March 29, 2009 Posts: 4657 Location: Whittier 90602
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Posted: Thu May 17, 2012 3:08 pm Post subject: |
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I just got a virus warning when I clicked on the pics
Now my machine is prompting me to run a scan
I would advise anyone else not to try and view the pics above until the matter is resolved. _________________ -Bruce
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. |
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FPCT Samba Member
Joined: May 17, 2012 Posts: 13 Location: Portugal
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Posted: Thu May 17, 2012 3:40 pm Post subject: |
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61SNRF wrote: |
I just got a virus warning when I clicked on the pics
Now my machine is prompting me to run a scan
I would advise anyone else not to try and view the pics above until the matter is resolved. |
Problem solved. The popups were causing triggering the Anti Virus.
Thanks 61SNRF & Glutamodo |
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FPCT Samba Member
Joined: May 17, 2012 Posts: 13 Location: Portugal
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Posted: Thu May 17, 2012 3:45 pm Post subject: |
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glutamodo wrote: |
However, that carb is designed for a 1300 - it lacks a power fuel system for high speed enrichment. If you up-size the engine to a 1600 as most 1300s end up, that's not the best carb for it, it will restrict your power at the higher end. VW had a different 30PICT-1 with the power fuel system for 1500 engines, and that's probably my favorite VW-Solex carb.
-Andy |
I think I will not increase the size of the engine since I want to keep it original. But out of curiosity is the 30 PICT-1 VW 105-1 a better carb for the 1300 and above because of the power fuel system and would it work with the stock distributor? |
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glutamodo The Android
Joined: July 13, 2004 Posts: 26298 Location: Douglas, WY
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Posted: Thu May 17, 2012 4:48 pm Post subject: |
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As far as the vacuum plumbing inside the carb for the distributor advance, the 105-1 is the same as the the other 30PICT-1s. That extra power fuel nozzle won't change that at all. So all the 30PICT-1s are good for the 205K... as well as all of the other bug distributors from the mid and late 1960s.
(the 205K distributor was used both on the 1966/1300 and the 1967/1500)
It's possible that the engine already is a 1600... in the US it would be more likely, outside the USA though, maybe not as much. 1300 piston/cylinder kits haven't been that easy to come by for a long time, and even when they were, the 1600 kits were usually cheaper.
You could use the 105 style carb on a 1300, you'd probably have to rejet it. Would it run any better, probably not much. The 1300, not having the power fuel system, ran with a larger main jet to compensate, but with the small displacement of the engine and small valves, it was sufficient to run that engine. The previous 1192cc engine with the 28PICT-1 and a power fuel system... rated top speed of 72MPH. The 1285cc engine with that 30PICT-1 without the power fuel system... rated top speed of 74MPH. Comparing later engines beyond that that is pointless becuase the 1500-1600 engines were mated to transmissions that were geared differently.
On my big-bore 40HP engine (1385cc) I ran a 30PICT-1 (Mexican clone of the 105 series) with my stock fat-cap distributor and it ran just fine. On my 1600DP, I've run both Mexican and Chinese clones of the 105 carb, along with a 205K distributor, and that runs fine.
-Andy |
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FPCT Samba Member
Joined: May 17, 2012 Posts: 13 Location: Portugal
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Posted: Thu May 17, 2012 11:48 pm Post subject: |
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glutamodo wrote: |
It's possible that the engine already is a 1600... in the US it would be more likely, outside the USA though, maybe not as much. 1300 piston/cylinder kits haven't been that easy to come by for a long time, and even when they were, the 1600 kits were usually cheaper.
-Andy |
Yes I have read that in the US is usual to change from 1300 to 1600. I doubt that they did that to this engine in the past but if I'm wrong I will try my best to put him original with the correct pistons.
Will update the post with the distributor number as soon as I can.
One other question that its not related to the distributor. It seems that my choke is missing the electric wire that heats the choke.
Where can I find that wire? And if its not there because the choke is not working where can I find a replacement or rebuild kit?
I only found for 12v systems and mine is 6v. |
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glutamodo The Android
Joined: July 13, 2004 Posts: 26298 Location: Douglas, WY
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Posted: Fri May 18, 2012 2:22 am Post subject: |
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Easiest thing for a choke wire it make your own... get some wire (black is the correct color) and crimp some ends on it. If your coil only has the one Terminal 15 + push tab you'll have to either get a piggyback adapter or cut off the original wire end and crimp on a new one to both the original wire and the extra wire for the choke element.
You can check the choke element with an ohm meter. I think the 6V chokes are around 2-4 ohms resistance.
New PICT-1 style 6V choke elements are out there, but don't know how hard it is to find them in Portugal.
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D113%2D129%2D191%2DH
Plus good used and NOS are often in the Classifieds.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php?...ton=Search
Now the choke butterfly itself needs to move without binding, and the vacuum pull-back should function. The only replacable part in a gasket "rebuild" kit is that diaphram. Removing varnished depsits from the moving parts sometimes is needed to free up a stuck choke butterfly.
-Andy |
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