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My Manxter 2+2 Build Thread
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sbussard
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One step forward, two steps back. I measured crank end play tonight on the "good" motor, .007, good to go, I thought. Drained the oil (and some water which I knew it had) and then pulled the cover plate. It looks as if the case is starting to disintegrate where the oil cover plate bolts on. Lots of non-magnetic metal sludge on the top of the cover plate. It's silver-ish in color. And inspecting around the sump area, the case is falling apart there. I've never seen anything like it, but I've not worked on many VW motors. The threads for one of the studs where the acorn nuts goes is completely gone, that's how much of the case is gone.

Any ideas what caused this?

As far as I'm concerned, it's not repairable.

Bummer, back to square one on the motor.

Scott
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 7:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott, that is a classic case of magnesium oxidation. I have seen it a lot in old engines I have torn apart. Any water that gets into a engine will go to the bottom, (Oil floats on water) and galvanic corrosion happens between the steel sump plate and the manesium.

Pull the flywheel off of the 1st engine, vigoriously move the crank end to end and watch the thrust bearing to see if it moves in the case, (take the flywheel seal out so you can see the bearing). If it does move, that engine does need rebuilt. If the bearing is still tight in the case, it may be saveable.
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Iguana
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

looking good, if you ever need to revisit your dash and flexing is still an issue just let me know and I will cut you a new one out of thicker material. I use 2.5mm for mine to avoid the issue you are having with flex. If you know what layout you want I can do that for you at the same time.

Going rate for guys with cool builds = $FREE Laughing (yours is cool Cool )

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[/img]

I also have a support bracket for thr dash top to stop it falling down behind the screen so to speak.
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sbussard
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 4:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the explanation Joe. I figured it was some sort of dissimilar metal thing going on, but didn't realize something as simple as water could be the catalyst. I'll borrow the neighbor's big sockets soon and try to get the flywheel pulled to check the thrust bearing as you suggested. I didn't realize I could see it from the outside. On that motor, my youngest son was helping drain the oil and he pulled the plate and then asked why there was gravel (his word) on the plate. There were magnetic "crumbs" of metal on top of the cover. The crank end play with the P&C and heads still attached was 45 thousandths. I think that motor may need rebuilt, but am willing to check if you think it may be worth it.

Igauna - Thanks for the offer, but when would you have time! Your builds look great, you do nice work. I haven't noticed flexing on the dash, but I haven't driven it yet either. One of my problems I do have is that I bought 4 inch gauges, and in hindsight 3.5" would have fit better. There's not much room top to bottom of the dash for where I want the gauges. I'm left with a tiny sliver of dash above and below the speedo gauge. I'll try to get pics tonight to show what I mean. I am interested in pics of the dash top bracket. I haven't put my dash top in yet, but noticed early on that there was nothing to support the middle along the windshield side.

Thanks,
Scott
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 5:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you are checking the first engine, the pictons/cylinders/heads have no effect on the crankshaft end play. The end play is constant if the P&C's are on of off.
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lhutson
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott,
Thanks for the welcome. Yes, this is my first build and it has been a blast. I grew up with a Manx and it the car I learned to drive. My son and I bought a 69 that had been in a fire about 18 months ago (he got his drivers license last week so the push is on). We have progressed slowly but carefully. Chassis is complete missing only one brake line and a few minor tweeks. The motor is a 1776 that needs a few items (built from a long block) alternator, carbs, etc. we are waiting for the fan shroud to come back from the powder coaters. I am ready to order the kit and was just trying to decide what I need to keep from my pile of parts. Its fun to see your build coming together. Fun stuff and expensive.
Lyle
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lhutson
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 1:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott,
Thanks for the welcome. Yes, this is my first build and it has been a blast. I grew up with a Manx and it the car I learned to drive. My son and I bought a 69 that had been in a fire about 18 months ago (he got his drivers license last week so the push is on). We have progressed slowly but carefully. Chassis is complete missing only one brake line and a few minor tweeks. The motor is a 1776 that needs a few items (built from a long block) alternator, carbs, etc. we are waiting for the fan shroud to come back from the powder coaters. I am ready to order the kit and was just trying to decide what I need to keep from my pile of parts. Its fun to see your build coming together. Fun stuff and expensive.
Lyle
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sbussard
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

joescoolcustoms wrote:
The end play is constant if the P&C's are on of off.


I didn't know that. I figured the P&C's would offer some resistance, but now realize we're talking thousandths, which isn't much. I didn't see my neighbor today, so no big socket. He must be working OT. I still plan on pulling the flywheel and seeing what I can see.

Here's pics of the dash, not my best work. I pulled it out tonight to get it powder coated. I'm hoping it will help hide the uglies. Not much material left with 4" gauges, but I wanted the speedo in the middle of the steering wheel. Lots of lessons learned along the way....

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Thanks,
Scott
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First time, garage built, and living out the childhood dream of owning a life-size Hotwheel!

Check out my build thread-->My Manxter 2+2
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sbussard
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 2:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't made a post for awhile, so I thought I should.

I've been working on the little things, so not much to show in pics. I got the side pods mounted 100% including the vents, gas tank is installed, and push button RFID start button kit works like it should.

The motor should be ready by next Wednesday. Hoping to get it installed next weekend. This weekend I plan on working on the front seat brackets.

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Hoping to start the PA enhanced inspection process by the weeknd of 8/31/13. Gonna be cutting it close for MOTB, but I'm still pushing.

Thanks for looking,
Scott
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scooby223
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

looking good. Did you build a stock 1600? I have been putting my 1915 together and bolting all the small stuff to the pan, hope to have a full roller minus engine by Monday evening. I was hoping to start the inspection process by the end of the month but I can tell that is not going to happen. If I had to do it over again I would have bought a new body however I will put the work into this one. I can not wait to drive this thing I am sure you are getting there too. You are defiantly right about the little things not looking like much in the photos but when you look at the parts shelf you can tell your getting some where.
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sbussard
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 2:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ended up having Hoovler's in Greenville build my motor, I was out of time and still too much to do to get to MOTB. Other than taking more time than he said, he's done a very nice job. I'm pleased, but can't wait to get it back so I can take a ride. It is a 1600DP, single carb. I really would like to upgrade to a 1800 mini stroker or 1935 in the future, that I plan on building. Seems summer is over and I'm still running.....Hopefully I'll get time to get to your place Scooby, I do want to check your buggy. Did you ever get the spacers and such sorted out on your rear axles?

Scott
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scooby223
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 4:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yea got them in right it was over a year ago that I took it apart. I will be starting an outage at the nuke plant around the 2nd week of sept so I an trying to crank this thing out before then. Do you know how long the inspection process will take is it a drop it off deal or do they just go over it while you wait? I sure hope that goes well for you and I.

your hard work will pay off hope you get the bugs worked out before motb

Jarrett
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sbussard
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've never been through Enhanced Inspection for a Specially Constructed Vehicle title before, so I'm still nervous about it also. from what I understand they inspect it while you wait, but then send the paper work and pictures off to Harrisburg for final title work. The paper work & pictures can not be filed electronically. And I've heard ancedotal stories that it can take 1 week to never. I have not met or talked to anyone that has actually been through the process themselves.

Here's the FAQ: http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/pdotforms/fact_sheets/Specially_Constructed_Vehicle.pdf

Here's the Inspection Criteria:
http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/pdotforms/pub_45/SubchapterK.pdf

I'm hoping it's quick, or MOTB won't be happening for me or my kids.

Scott
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sbussard
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My mom & dad stopped by tonight to bring the kids home from a weekend with them. Dad wanted a few pics of the buggy, so we rolled it outside. I was showing him how the side curtains & doors will eventually look, nothing is attached yet. If I can get to inspection soon, I hope to work on the mounts for the doors & curtains, but like everything else they will require more engineering on the fly.

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FWIW, this is the first time I've ever seen my father in a tie dye shirt..... Very Happy

Scott
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks fantastic!

The buggy that is. The jury may be out for awhile on the tie dyed father. Shocked
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Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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bornred62
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

NICE WHEELS
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

looks sweet. you have to be jonesing to go down the road under its own power
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sbussard
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 8:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

joescoolcustoms wrote:
Looks fantastic!


Thanks Joe, I'm still not certain of the tie dye look yet either....

bornred62 wrote:
NICE WHEELS


Hmmm, wonder where I got them? Cool I still couldn't be happier with them. IMHO, they look right at home on the buggy, like they were meant to be. Thanks.

Kreelak wrote:
looks sweet. you have to be jonesing to go down the road under its own power


If you only knew!! This is the 3rd summer of the build. All I want to to is take it for a spin. Hopefully the motor will be 100% this Weds and I can pick it up. I've already told my Manager I may need a few days off of work this week Very Happy Who needs sleep when there's a buggy waiting to drive??

Scott
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sbussard
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Getting closer to take a ride. I picked up my motor today.

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Many hours later, I was able to get it in. It fought me every inch of the way. I've had motors pop right in before, but not today. Tried every trick I knew, and then some.

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


And she's alive!! Still a bunch of tweaking to do. It won't hold an idle yet without the choke closed a wee bit. I'm sure with some reading and searching, I'll figure it out. Solex Pict34-3 single carb, dual port.

Video of her running, I have pics so it did happen Cool --> http://youtu.be/KsGvu9abd0A


And I've got to clearance the rear deck lid still. The upper pulley interferes with closing it completely. Any words of wisdom here? I have a jigsaw, sawzall, router, and Dremel. Of those tools, I'm leaning to the jigsaw and cleaning up the cut with the Dremel.

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Thanks,
Scott
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nightmanx11
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used a small sharpie to mark the cut line, then a small belt sander to slowly remove material until it would close without hitting the pulley.
Be sure that you have a large enough that the engine will not hit if you get a misfire or broken motor mount.
It makes a heck of a racket if it hits. can also chip the gel coat a bit.
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