My Manxter 2+2 Build Thread

[MURZI]

I like the dremel with a stone...grind it away slowly. Might even clamp half of that pulley,an old pulley, or something similar to the back side to use as a guide/template to make the half moon perfect.
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62 vert
2276
Tim’s welded heads
45 Dells
A1 sidewinder
Fk44 cam

[scooby223]

Might want to check with the inspection station about a belt guard before you clearance the deck lid, your exhaust covers some of the belt but I would hate to see you have to take it back just for a guard and have to re clearance it. I know with my dual cannons I will need a guard. Hope to get my engine back next wed. Doesn't look like you have much left for inspection, have you created a punch list yet?
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=516085

1969 Dune Runner Mini Mercedes
1985 Ford F250 460 1 owner 64000 mi

[OutCasted]

Before cutting the body I would try some diffent pulleys or maybe a serpentine belt system.

[sbussard]

Thanks for the tips guys. Does anyone have any pics of their rear deck lids trimmed up to clearance the pulley. It looks like I may have to remove a little bit to clearance the top of the alternator also, so I don't think a serpentine belt setup would work.

I need to sort out my transaxle before trimming up the rear deck lid. It shifts fine while the engine is off and appears to be going in all gears. But with the engine running, I can't even get it to grind gears. If I get it even close to getting into gear the motor stalls out. I'll be pulling the motor in the AM to look at the PP and TO bearing. The transaxle is an unknown to me. It was given to me ~12 years ago and the PO said it worked well when he pulled it. I've adjusted the cable to both extremes and everywhere in between. I'm sure I'll get it, not giving up yet!

Thanks,
Scott
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Manxter #122
First time, garage built, and living out the childhood dream of owning a life-size Hotwheel!

Check out my build thread-->My Manxter 2+2

[sbussard]

Scooby - Good call on the belt guard. I bought one used. A friend picked it up since it was near his house in Irwin and he still has it. I forgot until you mentioned it. I'll call the inspection garage and see what they say about needing it.

The punch list keeps getting shorter.

1) Transaxle/Clutch problem.

2) Finish running fuel line. The piece I had for the carb to the filter that I mounted near the transaxle (away from the engine) came up 3 inches short. I picked up 3 ft piece today that will reach.

3) Seatbelts & mounts

4) Fuel tank sending unit needs final terminations and fuel levels need programmed/set for the gauge. Wiring is done on gauge side and pulled to tank already.

5) Clearance rear deck for pulley & alternator.

6)Fix a small oil leak in passenger side valve cover. Hoping it's simply tweaking the lip. I've already replaced the gasket & it still is leaking.

7) Rotate the tires side to side, a friend pointed out I have the directional tires mounted a$$-backwards. Doh!

8 ) Reinstall rear roll bars and bumper.

9) Get front end aligned

10) Put in dash - I've already had it in, so this should be simple. Famous last words....

11) Inspection.

Not needed for inspection, but still to do, is to come up with a bracket to mount the rear curtains. And install the doors. This all can wait until after inspection while I wait for the title work.

Work completed last few days:
Front seat brackets made & seats installed. Seat heaters work now. Speakers are wired and working. Seat covers installed. Tach is set up & working. Carb is adjusted now so that it idles smoothly at 850 rpms.

I'm tired but still pushing. I want to drive it....

Scott
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Manxter #122
First time, garage built, and living out the childhood dream of owning a life-size Hotwheel!

Check out my build thread-->My Manxter 2+2

[scooby223]

I noticed the tires, I used to mount big jeep tires when I worked at 4wd hardware. The first set of 35's that I mounted were directional and I had them all screwed up after that I learned to pay attention. I am having problems finding 1st in trans, and I even have an adjuster however that all might change once engine is installed. I to have no idea if my trans is any good as I bought my buggies in pieces. Geno suggested I beef it up over winter for the 1915. Just remember to take your time that nice factory finish is only nice and new once. The end is near!

Jarrett
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=516085

1969 Dune Runner Mini Mercedes
1985 Ford F250 460 1 owner 64000 mi

[Lo Cash John]

BMD Pulleys makes a pulley kit to solve your problem. Go to the link below and look at the "Dry Sump Kit"

http://www.bmdpulleys.com/pro.html
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www.LoCashRacing.org
More brains than bucks...Believe it or not!!

If you actually drive your VW, you need www.AirMapp.com

My boss told me I need to work on my mutli-tasking. So now when I use the bathroom at work I surf The Samba on my iPhone.

[sbussard]

[Lo Cash John]

Both pulleys are reduced in size but the drive ratio is stock. It's designed for guys using dry sump oil systems where the oil pump is very large.

Yes $220 is a chunk (1 income family man here) but still a small price for not cutting into the body and BMD makes a very nice product.

If you clearance the body, I'd do it so the body is symmetrical. Just my thoughts.

Very nice build overall!!
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www.LoCashRacing.org
More brains than bucks...Believe it or not!!

If you actually drive your VW, you need www.AirMapp.com

My boss told me I need to work on my mutli-tasking. So now when I use the bathroom at work I surf The Samba on my iPhone.

[sbussard]

[sbussard]

I fought the clutch problem all day, walking away from it many times. I'm no closer to getting it resolved than when I started.

Here's the symptoms:
With the motor off, I can shift through all gears easily.
With the motor running, I can not get it to go into gear at all. Even without the clutch pedal pushed in, I can not get the gears to even grind. If I try to force shift very hard, I never get it to grind and the motor stalls. As soon as the motor stalls, it can go right into gear.
It never feels as though the TO bearing is making contact with the pressure plate.

Transmission is an AH, which I believe to be a 1970, with no TO bearing collar. Bowden tube has approx 1 inch of sag. I've adjusted the cable to both extremes, and everywhere in between. With the motor out, we checked each gear to make sure it spun the output shaft of the transaxle when we rolled the car.

I have these components:

HD Clutch Cover (Pressure Plate) 200mm, Early 1966-70 Type 1, With Collar http://vwparts.aircooled.net/HD-Pressure-Plate-200mm-Early-311-14-025E-p/311-141-025e.htm

Daikin Solid Center 200mm Clutch Disc http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Daikin-200mm-Solid-Center-Clutch-Disc-p/daikin-solid-center-200mm.htm

Economy Lightened Flywheel 13lb http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Economy-Lightened-Flywheel-13lb-8-Doweled-p/light-flywheel-ec.htm

VWC-111-141-165-AGR - OE QUALITY - EARLY THROW OUT BRG - BEETLE 46-70 http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-111-141-165-AGR

This is a pic of my TO bearing:

It looks nothing like this pic I found in the Gallery of another Early TO bearing:

I took the TO bearing out and it seems to match up to the collar on the pressure plate, meaning not too big or small.

I pulled the motor today and it did not want to come out. It seemed like it was the clutch disc stuck on the shaft of the transaxle that was holding it. Three of us (me, 15 yo son, and neighbor) finally wiggled, pulled, and pried it out. I've noticed the old used clutch disc slide easily on the shaft, but the new one does not. Should it slide freely, forward & back?

I'm at a loss and this is the last thing holding me up from taking a ride. I plan on installing the old disc tomorrow, putting the motor back in and seeing what happens. It kicked my a$$ today, and I want to figure it out.

Thanks,
Scott
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Manxter #122
First time, garage built, and living out the childhood dream of owning a life-size Hotwheel!

Check out my build thread-->My Manxter 2+2

[joescoolcustoms]

I would bet that rusty input shaft is the problem. I guess it is holding the clutch disc againt the flywheel so hard it cannot do anything.

Clean it up until the new disc can slide on and off with ease. This is the reason the engine fought you going in the first time.
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Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone

[bornred62]

[Lo Cash John]

Yup. Clean all rust off so the shaft is raw steel and add a THIN coat of grease or anti-seize.
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www.LoCashRacing.org
More brains than bucks...Believe it or not!!

If you actually drive your VW, you need www.AirMapp.com

My boss told me I need to work on my mutli-tasking. So now when I use the bathroom at work I surf The Samba on my iPhone.

[sbussard]

Thanks guys. I didn't realize how rusty the input shaft was until I saw it in the picture. I cleaned it up and the new disc now slides freely. And the old disc goes on much farther than it did before. I'm hoping that's all it was. Sometimes I can't see the forest through the trees.

And Gary, the front tires are flopped now, my 12 yo did it today. He says he wants to do the rears tomorrow. Lately he's been into helping, so I'm letting him do what he can. Hey, I'm not part of No Brains Racing (20+ yr old inside joke among friends) for no reason....We had these stickers made somewhere around 1994 and I still had a few. Had to go on the buggy somewhere.

Motor will go back in tomorrow after church. I'll let everyone know the outcome.

I appreciate the help. Thanks!

Scott
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Manxter #122
First time, garage built, and living out the childhood dream of owning a life-size Hotwheel!

Check out my build thread-->My Manxter 2+2

[sbussard]

I cleaned up the input shaft as best as I could last night. The old disc slid on another 3/4 to 1 inch. The new disc slipped on the same, slick as could be. I put a light coat of anti-seize on the shaft.

Jarrett (Scooby223) came over today and I can't thank him enough. He brought a motor cycle jack and it made lifting & installing the motor a breeze. It slipped right into place. Clutch works exactly as it should!! We put in the fuel line from the carb to the solid line, put a gallon of gas in the tank, and took a celebratory ride around the block. Breaking the law. I offered to let him drive and he graciously declined. I can't say thanks enough. Sometimes I just need the extra push.

I did take some other friends for a ride and noticed with 4 people in the buggy that I am getting some wheel rub on the passenger side rear.

Any suggestions?

I think I can:
1) cut out a portion of the fender well so it will clear with 4 people in it
2) order new spacers, but the most I can add is 1/4 inches more. This should help. Would be ~$200 for the thicker spacers
3) New wheels, cost prohibitive.
4) Don't give any more rides with people in the back seats.

I'm down to installing seat belts, clearancing the rear deck lid, and remounting the rear bumper bars.

Happy Day!!! Three years to get to this point.

Thanks,
Scott
_________________
Manxter #122
First time, garage built, and living out the childhood dream of owning a life-size Hotwheel!

Check out my build thread-->My Manxter 2+2

[scooby223]

That does not look so good, I guess you could turn the rear suspension up a notch or two. The joy ride we took today was just what I needed to kick my build into high gear. Did the wife like it?
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=516085

1969 Dune Runner Mini Mercedes
1985 Ford F250 460 1 owner 64000 mi

[bornred62]

Glad to hear you got her rolling.

[sbussard]

The wife and kids liked it! Took a spin around the block with them. Wife said it was louder than she thought it would be, so a new exhaust will be in the future. I didn't think about reindexing the rear torsion bars. I guess I could turn them up a few notches. It did not rub with my kids in the back, but with more weight it did. There is some rubbing on the driver's side also, but not nearly as bad.

Thanks again Jarrett, you're visit was a great help both physically and mentally. It was good to meet you and I hope I can repay the favor some day. I'll let you know for sure how inspection goes.

Thanks,
Scott
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Manxter #122
First time, garage built, and living out the childhood dream of owning a life-size Hotwheel!

Check out my build thread-->My Manxter 2+2

[Tom_Kathleen]

Scott - cutting the engine cover for clearance for the generator/alternator has been done since the start of building Manxters with VW engines. See picture in attached link. http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/album154/P2080191
We also had to cut away part of the side pod where your tire rub is. Do a nice smooth job and you will never know it was cut away. Tom
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Manxter #16, 1968 Meyers Manx & Kick-Out SS #16 (WIP)
Manx Club & CVA