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1971 Super Beetle Rebuild thread (not another!)
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Joel
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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2012 4:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vinnems wrote:
Huh. Honestly, I've never seen one before. Thanks for learning me, Volkscab.


They are not very common, 1970 was the only year sedan that got them, they were dropped in 71 when the bigger doghouse cooling system started as they block too much air flow.
People just fit them to later cars to keep rain out, the decklid on this bug isn't the correct one so who knows where it probably came from.


Mr.Duncan wrote:
IT shifts fine, only issue ive had, is when sometimes coming from 3rd down to 2nd. it grinds like its going into reverse gear Crying or Very sad (clutch all the way in)


Sounds like 2nd gear syncro is abit ordinary, real common problem in old VWs.
_________________
Quick little bug, you got a Porsche motor in that?
1974 Germanlook 1303 2.5 Suba-Beetle
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2012 7:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joel wrote:
Vinnems wrote:
Huh. Honestly, I've never seen one before. Thanks for learning me, Volkscab.


They are not very common, 1970 was the only year sedan that got them, they were dropped in 71 when the bigger doghouse cooling system started as they block too much air flow.
People just fit them to later cars to keep rain out, the decklid on this bug isn't the correct one so who knows where it probably came from.


Mr.Duncan wrote:
IT shifts fine, only issue ive had, is when sometimes coming from 3rd down to 2nd. it grinds like its going into reverse gear Crying or Very sad (clutch all the way in)


Sounds like 2nd gear syncro is abit ordinary, real common problem in old VWs.


Whats the correct decklid? Its the 2 slot one instead of the 4 i belive?

For the transmission im going to replace the bushing and shift gate, should i be worried about this 2nd gear syncro? its just like hard to find 2nd and 1st like somthing is in the way.


Last edited by Mr.Duncan on Fri May 18, 2012 7:38 am; edited 1 time in total
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2012 7:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most of the tin off, going to clean the case with a wire brush and, replace the pistons, cylinders and most likely the heads/valves (spark plugs wiggled a little but didn't shoot out)

Any recommended brands for this engine?

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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2012 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just took the heads off,.... Looks like I'm gonna need new ones.

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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 9:29 am    Post subject: Damn! Reply with quote

Ive been busy working on the car for a while,

Ill be updating all my progress soon, got the newly built engine in, in turn i ruined my brake system!

videos and pics soon Cool
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well,

Took the crappy 009 Dizzy out, (ill be replacing it soon with a Botch from Glenn when I have the funds.)

Must say look at that lovely Points Wire!

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Even better close up of that great insulator. I have no idea how I drove with this.

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Wonder how old my old coil was?

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Still works- ill keep it as a spare.

Replaced all that!

Oiled the cotton Wick.

Replaced Cap, Wires, Points, Plugs, and coil!
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 10:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After cleaning my engine case,

decided to replace my heads/ jugs/ pistons.

Old ones.
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New Mahle Brazil 85.5 pistons Cool

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Shinny new heads, $170 each, cast in china, valves and springs assembled and installed in USA.

I was amazed at the quality of the casting, all airways open!

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Wanted to build my Engine in a clean air conditioned room, so I brought my tarp and started to rebuild the top end of my engine inside my office!

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[/img]


Last edited by Mr.Duncan on Sun Dec 16, 2012 11:40 am; edited 1 time in total
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Getting everything ready after torquing down the heads.

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Installed new rubber gaskets in the engine bay and the firewall!

Just a tip, instead of greasing it up and sliding it through the C channel,

I put the seal in place by lining it up with the C channel, put the bottom edge of the seal in, then bent down the top and poped it into the c channel with a flat head screw driver!

(and use some silicon spray)

put the engine back in, realized... I forgot to hook up the accelerator cable..

Also the new rubber seal didn't have a cut out to see the accelerator tube!

Pulled the engine back about 1 inch, spent about 1 hour cutting that rubber seal a small dime sized hole to gain access.

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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 11:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sanded down my muffler, and painted it with high heat paint!

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Also drilled the pre-heat holes this muffler had them welded on, but no holes....
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

At first starting of the engine, one of the lock nuts wasnt tight enough and screwed up.

I noticed bad pitting on the valve adjusting screw and replaced all 8.
Heres a short video of it running.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6sj-xIOtF_M&list=UUfTwLfmCiRICPsM8hCMmPHw&index=3

After this, I purchased some flaps and thermostat system from Awesome Powedercoat!

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Pulled the engine out, (only after having it in for 30 minutes.

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After some shipping time, I purchased new cylinder tin.
It being aftermarket i cut the little air vanes in the OEM tim, and riveted them into the new tin!
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

While waiting for the parts to arrive, I painted the tarboard with truck bed liner. (it was in good condition but just looked nasty)

I chose to install Red upper cylinder tin, Because I like the way it looks, and to explain to other non-aircooled people, that under that red THOSE are my pistons.

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At this point I sanded down, and painted my doghouse tin with fresh black paint.

Assembled everything with the cooling flaps, and thermostat & tested for the operation of the flaps.

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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Installed into the engine bay, THIS TIME remembering to hook the accelerator cable inside the tube before bolting to the transmission.

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At this point I drained the tranny fluid, the PO put the top fill plug in with 50 LBS of torque! WTF!

Black fluid came out, cleaned the magnetic plug, and filled it with new fluid.

Ran the car around the block (storage unit complex) for about 10 minutes,

Drained the new fluid again, (wanted to make sure I removed any old fluid/particles out)

Then filled it back up for the last time and leveled the fluid from the fill hole.


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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now I chose to replace all my CV joints, Orginaly i was going to clean and re-grease my old ones.

They were worn to hell.

Didn't have money for nice German ones, so i chose EMPI. :/

Still looked lovely.

Cleaned them parts cleaner, installed ontop my repainted axles.


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turns out, my left axle is a 69 bug, and my right one is from a 74?

(painted on the axles)
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now, here is the interesting part!

Before I bought this PO beetle. I had the owner take a video of it running,

Here is that video:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgvnyLbsZHM&list=WL9A10F690CCFFEAD1

Compared to the video I took after re-building, and new tin, cooling system, proper seals.

How it is today:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MWHNGclnavA&list=UUfTwLfmCiRICPsM8hCMmPHw&index=1[/u]
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 11:36 am    Post subject: UPDATE Reply with quote

Currently, I have replaced the Master cylinder, (3 of them)

I cant get it working, so I had my bug towed to the local VW aircooled shop.

(texasaircooled.com)


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While its sitting at the shop for about 3 weeks, (im having the brake system re-done, Electrical work Install & wire a horn, Fix blinker issues, make the high beams work, Rebuild and tune the carb, replace lower ball joints, and replace Shocks & Struts)

Also purchasing new tires! $50 a pop at walmart.
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also, i have a paint chip sheet for 72 &73 VW.

Im going to take these non-faded colors to get some rustoleim paint and touch up/ possibly repaint the beetle.


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Twony
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any updates? I am about to paint mine but I haven't touched the motor besides getting it somewhat running good enough to pull onto a tow truck, lol...

Thanks Anthony
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Twony wrote:
Any updates? I am about to paint mine but I haven't touched the motor besides getting it somewhat running good enough to pull onto a tow truck, lol...

Thanks Anthony


Non yet, still at the shop for brake work, I had to post pone due to buying 4 tires for my daily driver.
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

While the bug is still at the shop I went and tore out the tarboards.

My plan is to get the rust out, and por-15 then use Quick-roof .

Its a roofing material that is just like dynomat but cheaper.

The only issue i've ran into is when trying to use a grinder on the floor pans, the tar/glue heats up and melts all around the grinding wheel, thus it becomes useless in removing tar....

Anyone have luck with removing this stuff?



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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I left, I took my speedometer with me to rebuild it,

While greasing all the gears, I panted the needle.

Ive also taped up every spot inside the speedometer housing with reflective tape to help increase the light output at night.

Before:

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Here is the inside of the housing before and after the tape:

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Tape added:

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end product!


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