Starter switch

[pomfritz]

As I sit here waiting for AAA.....

Van won’t start. It’s been acting up over the past year where nothing happens when I turn the key. It’s very intermittent and usually after three or so tries it starts. Not today. I have a spare and it was getting very close to the top of my to do list. Now it’s gonna move up down more...

So what’s with these switches? Supposedly it was switched out (haha) by the P.O. right before I bought it 3 years ago. What goes bad in them that causes these symptoms?

BTW as I was cranking it. A guy was taking pics and came up to tell me he use to own an 80 and was lookin to get another one. He was familiar with my issue. Didn’t deter him.

Good man

Well. I’ve now joined the broke down van club.

Finally got that out of the way
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83.5 233K. GW 2.3, SS exhaust, My German Frau named her Stefi

[wesitarz]

Cheap, Made in China switches.Take off the plastic cover, unplug the connector and plug it into your new switch. Turn it with a screwdriver to start. Install it properly when you have time.

[shagginwagon83]

Not 100% sure but I have heard that the bad housing can cause the switch to wear out more quickly? Like I said not sure maybe someone needs to clarify on that.
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Brandon
"Jo Ann" - '83.5 Westfalia EJ22e w/Peloquin
Instagram @joannthevan

[Paulbeard]

[pomfritz]

Yeah I bought what I hope is a quality switch from what I was reading about the brands.

So tow truck arrived and of course it started. So guess not a member yet...

Will swap out tomorrow
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83.5 233K. GW 2.3, SS exhaust, My German Frau named her Stefi

[Paulbeard]

[pomfritz]

Apparently this saga is not over yet....

I replaced the switch yesterday and started right up. It continued to do so until last night while I was out. Same thing wouldn’t turn over. I can hear the fuel pump but that’s it.

Waiting for a tow. FYI I just replaced the starter a few months ago and cleaned up all the contacts down there.

This is beyond my YouTube training and it’s off to my mechanic for diagnosing.

Waiting for a tow is a great time to catch up on the samba....
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83.5 233K. GW 2.3, SS exhaust, My German Frau named her Stefi

[Brownj]

I'd say either:

1. Starter solenoid
2. (If AT) Park/Neutral switch

My 87 is an auto and just started doing this. If I put the shifter in neutral it starts fine. Used to have an 85 that had same issue but was manual trans and was the solenoid.

[?Waldo?]

The hype about short-lived ignition switches is usually caused by people not actually understanding the actual issue. When the ignition lock cylinder housing gets worn it will cause the new ignition switches to 'fail' quickly or work intermittently just as you describe because the little part that rotates the switch does not turn it the appropriate amount. After replacing the housing you will probably find that the 'failed' switches actually work fine.

[pomfritz]

Waldo,

I’ve seen this before. I’ve taken apart the housing before, I’m having a hard time understanding how the housing gets worn as both the lock cylinder and switch plug in and don’t really move against the housing. I am getting the situation diagnosed and did mention this as a possibility.

Thanks

Gary
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83.5 233K. GW 2.3, SS exhaust, My German Frau named her Stefi

[?Waldo?]

You're right. I was remembering incorrectly. It is the piece that is pinned on the end of the ignition lock cylinder that wears. I was mistakenly remembering that as part of the housing rather than the cylinder.

When the end wears or the interface between lock cylinder and that end piece wears, the slop results in the switch not being rotated appropriately.

[pomfritz]

Okay, leave it to a pro and it gets solved and repaired in one hour.

The problem was a bad relay from the Starter Relay kit I installed.

If you got one, keep this is mind.
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83.5 233K. GW 2.3, SS exhaust, My German Frau named her Stefi

[oceanair]

My relay got me too this week. I'm now rethinking the wisdom of adding one. But I have figured out how to test it.

1st is easiest, but not what I did until later! Pull the relay, slide in another, that got me going in the end, used the one I installed for the high beams.

I had power at the #50 wire when the key is in start on the solenoid and at the post both equal 12.5v. Ran a wire from the big post to the little one and the stater spun So it had to be something to do with the relay since everything was there but the trigger. I could here the relay clicking and thought it was fine earlier but when I swapped relays, she started right up, swapped back and nothing.

Problem solved! How to know you have a bad relay...
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84 Vanagon Pop Top Conversion from Tin Top, 1970 Ghia - all sweet rides! Love em!
Previous: Green 72 Tin Top, White 72 Westy, Blue 64 Beetle, Yellow 71 Squareback, 2014 Jetta TDI Wagon - wish I could have them all back!

[Paulbeard]

At some point you have to wonder why a relay is needed. Starting is momentary thing, not like headlights that might be on for hours. Good connections, solid grounds, and a powerful starter are all you really need. It was all the these rigs had when delivered.
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Currently -> Frida: 87 Tizian Red (mostly) Vanagon GL Westfalia w/ 2.0L ABA conversion
Formerly -> Steward of a 73 Super Beetle (Beater) and 67 Beetle 1300 (Little Max) both names by POs

[badspeller]

Hi! I have a similar problem (maybe). However, I tried hot wiring the #50 wire with no affect. I then did the tap tap tap on the starter. This has been working every time and got me back from Tahoe this weekend.

So? will a relay make my solenoid work better? do I need a new starter solenoid? or something else?

Currently starter is in broken state about 50% of the time. works fine the other 50%. Always starts after tapping on the starter.

[oceanair]