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DubStyle SBS Hit Squad
Joined: July 26, 2003 Posts: 6250 Location: SBS headquarters: Missery
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Posted: Mon May 21, 2012 10:02 am Post subject: Eberspacher Basics |
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I seen a post about manuals and what not. I'm a hands on kind of person. When I start hooking it up, I want to know hot, ground, switch... blah blah blah. Anyone good at explaining these kind of things? I have until Sept/Oct before the cold weather kicks in. I'd rather have it kicking before then. _________________ Anthony
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Empicollector Samba Member
Joined: March 02, 2002 Posts: 316 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Sun May 27, 2012 8:06 pm Post subject: Eberspacher Basics |
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Ant,
Manual online:
www.oacdp.org/ebersp.HTML#q2
If it doesn't work put above address in search and it will work |
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notchboy Samba Member
Joined: April 27, 2002 Posts: 22416 Location: Escondido CA
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Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 11:41 am Post subject: |
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What kind of unit? BA6, BN4, BN2, B2, BA4????? Eithor way you are going to have to read.
Im about to tuck into a BN2 that Im putting into my 77 westy under the seat for extra cabin heat. Ive rebuilt several but always dive back into the manuals for a refresher coarse. _________________
t3kg wrote: |
OK, this thread is over. You win. |
Jason "notchboy" Weigel
1964 1500 S
1964 T34 S Convertible
1977 Westfalia Camper pop-top |
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thomas. Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2010 Posts: 1288 Location: South West (Pa.)
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Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 5:02 pm Post subject: |
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I'm ready to cut the holes in my '62 bug and have a pretty good idea where to cut for the B2 eber I'm installing.Most of the old literature on this has poor pictures or unclear description .If someone has digital photos of the holes when they cut in an early to mid sixties bug that would be great. Thanks in advance
Tom |
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notchboy Samba Member
Joined: April 27, 2002 Posts: 22416 Location: Escondido CA
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thomas. Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2010 Posts: 1288 Location: South West (Pa.)
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Posted: Tue May 29, 2012 7:21 am Post subject: |
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These are the ones I've been using.I think the top one(the oacdp) is for a Bn2.They may be the same dimensions as the B2 though.On another B2 rebuild thread the OP used those and it worked for him.Then again his was a later bug.'72 I think.On the bottom it's assumed you have the templates and you measure from those holes once marked.I've tried printing the temps. off but can't seem to get just right.I even traced it off my screen and its close but wanted to make absolutely sure before I cut.There's enough identifying marks in the trunk if I can just find a digital picture of the holes.These marks seem close but don't seem to match underneath when I look in the wheelwell. Thanks for posting .
Tom
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notchboy Samba Member
Joined: April 27, 2002 Posts: 22416 Location: Escondido CA
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Posted: Tue May 29, 2012 9:04 am Post subject: |
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You should be good. THe hardest part is cutting a perfectly good car. If I can put a BN2 in a 62 notchback with out a template - you should be able to put in a B2 in a bug with one _________________
t3kg wrote: |
OK, this thread is over. You win. |
Jason "notchboy" Weigel
1964 1500 S
1964 T34 S Convertible
1977 Westfalia Camper pop-top |
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thomas. Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2010 Posts: 1288 Location: South West (Pa.)
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Posted: Tue May 29, 2012 6:07 pm Post subject: B2 install |
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So I decided to just go for it .It might not be perfect but it's in there.I noticed one thing .On another rebuild the exhaust shoe was facing the front of the car but on mine the two screw holes line up so the exhaust is facing rearward .I'm assuming my way is correct? Anyway here's some pictures and I'll post back when I'm getting heat. Thanks for any comments. Man you can really see the surface rust in these digital photos ! Tom
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notchboy Samba Member
Joined: April 27, 2002 Posts: 22416 Location: Escondido CA
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thomas. Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2010 Posts: 1288 Location: South West (Pa.)
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Posted: Wed May 30, 2012 3:16 pm Post subject: |
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That makes sense .How do you connect the two exhaust pieces then ? Do I even need that little screw to hold them-it's pretty tight just the way it is . Also I'm thinking about deleting the hole for the intake combustion air and just getting the combustion air thru the trunk.Maybe just leave that flex hose on. |
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notchboy Samba Member
Joined: April 27, 2002 Posts: 22416 Location: Escondido CA
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Posted: Wed May 30, 2012 4:49 pm Post subject: |
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Most exhaust pipes are conected to the combustion can with a clamp-simular to a regular exhaust clamp on the motor, but I have seen a set screw used to hold it on. I would secure it because its just hanging out there in the wheel well. What if you run through a puddle or his arock - roll over gravel??? All that crap is bound to hit it and dislodge it, right? Do you have the rubber gasket for the hole you gut in the body for the exhaust and fresh air tube? If not then crap will get in your trunk. I would vent the fresh air out into the wheel well. Eberspacher conected that to a J tube that went even furthor away from the exhaust out put. I tend to do it all as they intended. If your exhaust and fresh air are to close then youll suck bad air in and possibly stall combustion or atleast foul the glow plug with bad air.
The fresh air that will pass over the heat can can be sucked in from the trunk. But I wouldnt do it without having those gaskets for where you cut the holes to the fender well-you might create a negative air flow that pulls the air in through that hole that contains CO2. Eberspacher B2 modles evolved to have the intake for fresh air being pulled from the trunk to later having it pull from the cabin - 2 reasons, more efficent to re-heat cabin air as well as lessen the liklyhood of pulling in co2 or nasty smells from the trunk like bad gas cap-spare gas can-oil-dead bodies-stale beer-rotten tuna samich-shit like that.
Early style sucking air from the trunk.
Later style pulling air in from cabin.
_________________
t3kg wrote: |
OK, this thread is over. You win. |
Jason "notchboy" Weigel
1964 1500 S
1964 T34 S Convertible
1977 Westfalia Camper pop-top |
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thomas. Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2010 Posts: 1288 Location: South West (Pa.)
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Posted: Thu May 31, 2012 5:42 am Post subject: |
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Jason thanks for the responses.Regarding the parts I'm pretty sure I have most everything.I even have the plastic ducting from a 12 volt model to scavenge the air from the interior.I'm going to try it without the ducting at first.I understand it causes the windows to fog.I wanted to ask you about this J pipe though.Maybe there were different sizes or whatnot because when I line it up it looks like it will hit the steering wheel column.So I guess its obvious I should just cut it some ?
BTW-DubStyle sorry about the thread hijack.
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thomas. Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2010 Posts: 1288 Location: South West (Pa.)
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notchboy Samba Member
Joined: April 27, 2002 Posts: 22416 Location: Escondido CA
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Posted: Thu May 31, 2012 7:49 am Post subject: |
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And see the rubber gaskets? I dont think you are hi-jacking. This is all basic Eber stuff-any and all. Its a great place for any of us with any type of VW that had an eber. I usualy talk about it in the T3 or T2 bay sections. _________________
t3kg wrote: |
OK, this thread is over. You win. |
Jason "notchboy" Weigel
1964 1500 S
1964 T34 S Convertible
1977 Westfalia Camper pop-top |
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thomas. Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2010 Posts: 1288 Location: South West (Pa.)
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Posted: Thu May 31, 2012 1:32 pm Post subject: eberspacher install |
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Well I finished it today.The only thing left to do is hook up the power wire from #58 on the unit to #30 in the fuse box.So this being the first time I've hooked one up when I tested it out of the car I always grounded with a wire to the neg.terminal on the battery.I'm assuming I won't need a separate ground being it's bolted to the car.The only gromit I didn't have was the one for combustion air,so I just borrowed the one from the pre-heat hose to carb.in the engine compartment since I don't really have it hooked up.I have a plug in that line & it's just there for looks more or less.I have to order another one.Well here are more photos if anyone's interested.I needed the little lite that tells when it's on so borrowed that from my 12 volt eber.&replaced the light with an old speedometer 6 volt light.It works.The switchs next to the heat register-one on the right turns the fuel pump off if needed .The one on the left is a separate switch to turn radio off.(long story) (like this one).The little brass switch turns the heat on and off. Heading down to garage to finish hooking up .
Last edited by thomas. on Thu May 31, 2012 1:39 pm; edited 3 times in total |
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thomas. Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2010 Posts: 1288 Location: South West (Pa.)
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Posted: Thu May 31, 2012 1:34 pm Post subject: |
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notchboy Samba Member
Joined: April 27, 2002 Posts: 22416 Location: Escondido CA
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Posted: Thu May 31, 2012 2:10 pm Post subject: |
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Nice! Connections to both ground and power are crucial to its operation due to the high amps used at startup. Take a vid and post it to you tube. There is a lack of running ebers on their especialy early ones. _________________
t3kg wrote: |
OK, this thread is over. You win. |
Jason "notchboy" Weigel
1964 1500 S
1964 T34 S Convertible
1977 Westfalia Camper pop-top |
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thomas. Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2010 Posts: 1288 Location: South West (Pa.)
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Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 12:39 pm Post subject: eberspacher install |
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So I had some time today to mess around with my B2.The one problem I've never addressed on it is I can't seem to get it to light up unless I turn the fuel pump off 1st and let it run for a bit.I've got a separate switch to do that.It pumps real good.Maybe too good .When I turn it on it doesn't click like it should at one click per second but sounds like a machine gun.I'm thinking the rubber diaphragm needs adjusted .Like the number of turns out from full in.That's got to be the shittiest part of restoring one of these.Especially when your testing with raw gasoline.Anyway I got it to run today. So while its heating up my bug I'm in there taking photos of the little red light working .In the mean time out under the hood it's leaking raw gas down the return hose Lucky I caught it early and just shut it down.It ran real good though, went to cool down faze and ran for 3 minutes before turning off.I took the bad line off and put another one on I made up.It don't look as cool but I'm hoping it will work.Here's a couple of pictures for anyone that is interested.One is the red function light working.The other one my spare line from a 12 volt eber.The return line on this one had the cloth covered regular German fuel line and seemed too narrow so I'm going to try this .The other one is my exhaust.I just clamped it with a generic band clamp.
Tom
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notchboy Samba Member
Joined: April 27, 2002 Posts: 22416 Location: Escondido CA
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Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 1:10 pm Post subject: |
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You are taking a chance by using those original braided covered lines. Theyve got to be 44+ years old? I agree they are cool, but it wont be cool if your trunk lights up. Keep an eye on them.
You can keep all the original fittings from them, you just need to cut off the press clamp at the end. Ive never looked into braided line-but it is out there as replacement as well as those press clamps, but braided line with a cool blue plastic bit in it? Im not sure. _________________
t3kg wrote: |
OK, this thread is over. You win. |
Jason "notchboy" Weigel
1964 1500 S
1964 T34 S Convertible
1977 Westfalia Camper pop-top |
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thomas. Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2010 Posts: 1288 Location: South West (Pa.)
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Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 6:14 am Post subject: eber b2 install |
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You're right.I'm going to redo the one I had on there that was leaking.Until then I put this one on from my other 12 volt eber.It had a cloth covered fuel line for a return line so I changed it to this bigger one.I ran it last night and everything is working better than ever.In fact I thought the pump gave up on me but it was just doing its thing but quiet.It now works without using the fuelpump shut off switch.And no more leaks.The manual said to connect to #30 so I assumed #30 on the headlight switch.Decided to use that opportunity to change to a new headlight switch I had in my stash.The original headlight switch I refurbished from a site I found on here.Need to put in a fuse connection I have.It calls for a 25amp and all I have is a 30amp blade fuse.Something else I'll have to get.The heavy black wire on the right of the switch is the heater connection.Also some pictures of the tool I used to butcher my gas tank with.Once I got a hole in it I tied a string to the metal scrap so I wouldn't lose in the tank.( hi tech huh ) Anyway ran it again this morning and worked perfect.Had full heat in just a few minutes.
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