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Tram
Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 22728
Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
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 Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 1:16 pm Post subject: |
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| D/A/N wrote: |
| Tram wrote: |
| KTPhil wrote: |
| D/A/N wrote: |
| Still haven't found a cable assembly for the fuel door that can either be verified as working or is cheaper than $200 NOS. If anyone's got one for sale, please give a shout! |
Check the classifieds, of course. Also consider asking someone selling a fender if they would remove the cable assembly and sell it separately. A fender buyer may already have one and not need it.... worth a try. |
I'm looking around out here as well. |
Found one! ISP West to the rescue! |
Great! I was going to suggest just not putting gas in it as a workaround, but that might affect how it runs a little.
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KTPhil 
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34022
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 1:16 pm Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
This won't work like you think Phil, as Dan has a 69, which uses a seperate full load enrichment switch/circuit.
The 914 set up, is more like the 70 and later cars use. |
Aahh, righty-o.
Is there a similar expose on the early MPS units? I imagine although the full throttle and also the baro corrections are different, there is still more than one adjustment and that they interact. |
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D/A/N
Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2010
Posts: 2227
Location: 11222
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| Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 1:23 pm Post subject: |
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| Tram wrote: |
| Tram wrote: |
| D/A/N wrote: |
| KTPhil wrote: |
The FI shuts off all fuel flow when coasting (throttle closed) until the engine slows down to about 1800 RPM, for lower emissions and improved economy.
Sounds a bit lean so maybe biasing the head temp sensor might lean it out just a bit across the rpm range. This can be done without tampering with the MPS. |
Phil, thanks for the reply. Truth be told, I've never really thought much about this part of engine operation....the transition from under load to coasting. I thought that when coasting, the fuel flow went from whatever it was under load back to what it is at idle. In any case, I get the sense you're saying that whatever AFR #'s I'm seeing when letting off the throttle aren't cause for concern.
I found a thread you started a few years ago on the subject of AFR and was intrigued by the discussion of there only being a generally recommended AFR for idle (not under load or while cruising) of either 13 or 13.1. If that's the case, then our 12.2 at warm idle could/should be adjusted up to that #
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...hlight=afr
In terms of ballasting our CHT sensor or not, our MAP is already open and has already been adjusted and would be quite easy to do again with the AFR meter hooked up. Question is, how to tell whether ballasting the CHT or adjusting the MAP is the better move in this situation? |
I'm personally not a fan of ballasting the MAP. Quite frankly, I'd leave your settings where they are if your engine is running cool and well. |
**EDIT**: Phil PM'd me to point out that I am being a dolt. I meant "ballasting the temp sensor", natch! |
Oh, man.....I just spent the better part of this afternoon soldering resistors into the MAP sensor wiring. Guess I've got to undo that. 
Ok, just kidding. If there's no real value in adjusting the idle mixture from 12.2 to 13 then I guess we might as well not bother with any adjustment at all. |
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neena
Samba Member
Joined: September 10, 2010
Posts: 581
Location: Brooklyn, NY
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| Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 1:17 pm Post subject: |
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So, just as mysteriously as it appeared, stayed for 3 weeks and then vanished for 3 weeks, the POPPING is back and worse than ever.
Whereas before it was intermittent, now every time we let off the throttle at high RPM's in 2nd, 3rd, or 4th we get either a very loud POP!!!, a moderate pop, or a little fffftttt depending on how much load the engine was under. Now that it's pretty much constant it's really really nerve-wracking and takes the fun out of driving 
Before we go an blow money having a muffler shop weld some flanges onto the heater boxes and muffler, is there any last thing we should look at as a possible cause other than an exhaust leak? Because if it was an exhaust leak, why would it come and go for 3 weeks at a time? |
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Tram
Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 22728
Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
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| Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 1:43 pm Post subject: |
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| neena wrote: |
So, just as mysteriously as it appeared, stayed for 3 weeks and then vanished for 3 weeks, the POPPING is back and worse than ever.
Whereas before it was intermittent, now every time we let off the throttle at high RPM's in 2nd, 3rd, or 4th we get either a very loud POP!!!, a moderate pop, or a little fffftttt depending on how much load the engine was under. Now that it's pretty much constant it's really really nerve-wracking and takes the fun out of driving
Before we go an blow money having a muffler shop weld some flanges onto the heater boxes and muffler, is there any last thing we should look at as a possible cause other than an exhaust leak? Because if it was an exhaust leak, why would it come and go for 3 weeks at a time? |
Just for fun, get a bottle or 2 of "Techron" injector cleaner and run it. I'm wondering if you might not have an injector intermittently not spraying right.
You might be due for a fuel filter as well.
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| Bryan67 wrote: |
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neena
Samba Member
Joined: September 10, 2010
Posts: 581
Location: Brooklyn, NY
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| Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 1:59 pm Post subject: |
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| Tram wrote: |
| neena wrote: |
So, just as mysteriously as it appeared, stayed for 3 weeks and then vanished for 3 weeks, the POPPING is back and worse than ever.
Whereas before it was intermittent, now every time we let off the throttle at high RPM's in 2nd, 3rd, or 4th we get either a very loud POP!!!, a moderate pop, or a little fffftttt depending on how much load the engine was under. Now that it's pretty much constant it's really really nerve-wracking and takes the fun out of driving
Before we go an blow money having a muffler shop weld some flanges onto the heater boxes and muffler, is there any last thing we should look at as a possible cause other than an exhaust leak? Because if it was an exhaust leak, why would it come and go for 3 weeks at a time? |
Just for fun, get a bottle or 2 of "Techron" injector cleaner and run it. I'm wondering if you might not have an injector intermittently not spraying right.
You might be due for a fuel filter as well. |
Okay, we can do that Techron thing but it's gonna take a few days for us to work through that tank of gas to see if it helps. If this is a lean thing, I really hope we're not doing damage to the engine in the meantime. We're not, right?
Just ordered some fuel filters! |
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Tram
Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 22728
Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
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| Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 2:07 pm Post subject: |
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| neena wrote: |
| Tram wrote: |
| neena wrote: |
So, just as mysteriously as it appeared, stayed for 3 weeks and then vanished for 3 weeks, the POPPING is back and worse than ever.
Whereas before it was intermittent, now every time we let off the throttle at high RPM's in 2nd, 3rd, or 4th we get either a very loud POP!!!, a moderate pop, or a little fffftttt depending on how much load the engine was under. Now that it's pretty much constant it's really really nerve-wracking and takes the fun out of driving
Before we go an blow money having a muffler shop weld some flanges onto the heater boxes and muffler, is there any last thing we should look at as a possible cause other than an exhaust leak? Because if it was an exhaust leak, why would it come and go for 3 weeks at a time? |
Just for fun, get a bottle or 2 of "Techron" injector cleaner and run it. I'm wondering if you might not have an injector intermittently not spraying right.
You might be due for a fuel filter as well. |
Okay, we can do that Techron thing but it's gonna take a few days for us to work through that tank of gas to see if it helps. If this is a lean thing, I really hope we're not doing damage to the engine in the meantime. We're not, right?
Just ordered some fuel filters! |
How's the device reading? Lean under no load isn't a danger. Remember- the FI system cuts off fuel when coasting.
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| Bryan67 wrote: |
| Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
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neena
Samba Member
Joined: September 10, 2010
Posts: 581
Location: Brooklyn, NY
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| Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 2:17 pm Post subject: |
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| Tram wrote: |
| neena wrote: |
| Tram wrote: |
| neena wrote: |
So, just as mysteriously as it appeared, stayed for 3 weeks and then vanished for 3 weeks, the POPPING is back and worse than ever.
Whereas before it was intermittent, now every time we let off the throttle at high RPM's in 2nd, 3rd, or 4th we get either a very loud POP!!!, a moderate pop, or a little fffftttt depending on how much load the engine was under. Now that it's pretty much constant it's really really nerve-wracking and takes the fun out of driving
Before we go an blow money having a muffler shop weld some flanges onto the heater boxes and muffler, is there any last thing we should look at as a possible cause other than an exhaust leak? Because if it was an exhaust leak, why would it come and go for 3 weeks at a time? |
Just for fun, get a bottle or 2 of "Techron" injector cleaner and run it. I'm wondering if you might not have an injector intermittently not spraying right.
You might be due for a fuel filter as well. |
Okay, we can do that Techron thing but it's gonna take a few days for us to work through that tank of gas to see if it helps. If this is a lean thing, I really hope we're not doing damage to the engine in the meantime. We're not, right?
Just ordered some fuel filters! |
How's the device reading? Lean under no load isn't a danger. Remember- the FI system cuts off fuel when coasting. |
We can't keep the device hooked up all the time because we have to leave the engine lid cracked to run the wires into the cabin. We'll plug it in for another ride this weekend and see what it says. Last time we used it the car had stopped popping, so it'll be interesting to see if anything's changed. |
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Tram
Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 22728
Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
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| Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 2:56 pm Post subject: |
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| neena wrote: |
| Tram wrote: |
| neena wrote: |
| Tram wrote: |
| neena wrote: |
So, just as mysteriously as it appeared, stayed for 3 weeks and then vanished for 3 weeks, the POPPING is back and worse than ever.
Whereas before it was intermittent, now every time we let off the throttle at high RPM's in 2nd, 3rd, or 4th we get either a very loud POP!!!, a moderate pop, or a little fffftttt depending on how much load the engine was under. Now that it's pretty much constant it's really really nerve-wracking and takes the fun out of driving
Before we go an blow money having a muffler shop weld some flanges onto the heater boxes and muffler, is there any last thing we should look at as a possible cause other than an exhaust leak? Because if it was an exhaust leak, why would it come and go for 3 weeks at a time? |
Just for fun, get a bottle or 2 of "Techron" injector cleaner and run it. I'm wondering if you might not have an injector intermittently not spraying right.
You might be due for a fuel filter as well. |
Okay, we can do that Techron thing but it's gonna take a few days for us to work through that tank of gas to see if it helps. If this is a lean thing, I really hope we're not doing damage to the engine in the meantime. We're not, right?
Just ordered some fuel filters! |
How's the device reading? Lean under no load isn't a danger. Remember- the FI system cuts off fuel when coasting. |
We can't keep the device hooked up all the time because we have to leave the engine lid cracked to run the wires into the cabin. We'll plug it in for another ride this weekend and see what it says. Last time we used it the car had stopped popping, so it'll be interesting to see if anything's changed. |
Good. That will be the real test. Never assume anything unless you have test results. Maybe you should consider running wiring right into the car under the back seat and mount the gauge under the dash. this way you won't be panicking unless you really need to. Yes, lean will make it pop, but an exhaust leak sucking in more air will lean things out too. Maybe the gasket maker failed on one of the donuts. See if you're getting carbon tracers again. If so, reseal and see if it stops after the sealer "melts in" again. Then you know for sure!
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| Bryan67 wrote: |
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D/A/N
Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2010
Posts: 2227
Location: 11222
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| Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 2:32 pm Post subject: |
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We didn't have a chance to hook up the 02 sensor today but we looked for exhaust leaks and found some on the heater box side of the donut gaskets....lots of soot behind them and also on the box itself. We reapplied Permatex Copper and will see what, if anything, comes of it.
Also pulled all the spark plugs and found an old and discouragingly familiar sight.....different cylinders, different conditions. Last time I looked at the plugs (about a month ago) the two sides of the motor looked different but the plugs on the same side were at least identical. Not quite so this time. I think we're going to have to go 2 years back in our thread to see what we did last time this happened. 
1 and 2 are roughly the same (white and tan) but the insulator was far more tan on one side than the other. Also the base of #2 is black but not #1. Not sure what that means. Here they are
And then 3 (looks like #1) and 4 which is on the richer side of "normal"
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Tram
Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 22728
Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
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| Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 11:30 pm Post subject: |
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I'm really thinking that a couple/ three treatments of injector cleaner and a sniff are in order here. See how full of stuff the filter is when you change it. The tank's been cleaned, so if there's a lot of debris in the filter (the old one will weigh perceptibly more than the new one) it's probably where you are getting your gas.
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| Bryan67 wrote: |
| Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
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D/A/N
Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2010
Posts: 2227
Location: 11222
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| Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 7:07 am Post subject: |
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| Tram wrote: |
| I'm really thinking that a couple/ three treatments of injector cleaner and a sniff are in order here. See how full of stuff the filter is when you change it. The tank's been cleaned, so if there's a lot of debris in the filter (the old one will weigh perceptibly more than the new one) it's probably where you are getting your gas. |
Ok on the Techron and we can probably get the sniffer on tonight for a reading. Filters won't be here until midweek I think. How long are those filters supposed to last btw? This one isn't that old (maybe 6k miles) but I guess if it's clogged, it's clogged.
In the meantime, 20 miles of highway and local driving this morning including coasting downhill in gear and abrupt braking on the highway (guaranteed pop causers) without a single pop!!
I just love intermittent problems. Maybe it really is an exhaust leak and Jessica's liberal application of Copper did the trick. But could an exhaust leak really explain the variety in our spark plug appearance? The only other thing we did yesterday was reseat the plugs. But if it was loose plugs (not that any were loose), we hadn't touched them recently last time the popping went away. Still gonna do the sniffer and all that but damn this issue is starting to get to me!! |
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Tram
Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 22728
Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
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| Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 11:46 am Post subject: |
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| D/A/N wrote: |
| Tram wrote: |
| I'm really thinking that a couple/ three treatments of injector cleaner and a sniff are in order here. See how full of stuff the filter is when you change it. The tank's been cleaned, so if there's a lot of debris in the filter (the old one will weigh perceptibly more than the new one) it's probably where you are getting your gas. |
Ok on the Techron and we can probably get the sniffer on tonight for a reading. Filters won't be here until midweek I think. How long are those filters supposed to last btw? This one isn't that old (maybe 6k miles) but I guess if it's clogged, it's clogged.
In the meantime, 20 miles of highway and local driving this morning including coasting downhill in gear and abrupt braking on the highway (guaranteed pop causers) without a single pop!!
I just love intermittent problems. Maybe it really is an exhaust leak and Jessica's liberal application of Copper did the trick. But could an exhaust leak really explain the variety in our spark plug appearance? The only other thing we did yesterday was reseat the plugs. But if it was loose plugs (not that any were loose), we hadn't touched them recently last time the popping went away. Still gonna do the sniffer and all that but damn this issue is starting to get to me!! |
Yes, I think the popping is an exhaust leak. It will be fine until the sealer burns off again, then it will be lather- rinse- repeat. The difference in plug appearance is somewhat puzzling, but overall really not that bad. Remember- the FI system cuts off fuel when coasting, and it's not really unusual to see weird patterns like that, especially if you're doing lots of stop and go city driving with the fuel cutoff feature.
You're letting little issues get to you too much. Use the sniffer and see what it says. Instead of focusing on one small annoyance that may mean exactly nothing, try to look at the overall big picture.
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| Bryan67 wrote: |
| Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
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neena
Samba Member
Joined: September 10, 2010
Posts: 581
Location: Brooklyn, NY
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| Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 7:24 pm Post subject: |
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| Tram wrote: |
Yes, I think the popping is an exhaust leak. It will be fine until the sealer burns off again, then it will be lather- rinse- repeat. The difference in plug appearance is somewhat puzzling, but overall really not that bad. Remember- the FI system cuts off fuel when coasting, and it's not really unusual to see weird patterns like that, especially if you're doing lots of stop and go city driving with the fuel cutoff feature.
You're letting little issues get to you too much. Use the sniffer and see what it says. Instead of focusing on one small annoyance that may mean exactly nothing, try to look at the overall big picture. |
Today we had one of the biggest misadventures yet...
I picked up Daniel from work, we hooked up our sniffer and settled in for the drive home from Queens. We were going about 55 in the middle lane on the Long Island Expressway when suddenly the engine seemed to stop responding to the gas pedal...and then it cut out.  I tried to say as calmly as I could, "Daniel, something's wrong." Hazards went on, key turned off...so there we were, coasting on the L.I.E....attempting to restart the car...
Of course all the a-holes on the road chose to zoom around us on the right instead of letting us get over to the emergency lane as we slowed to 20, then 10 miles per hour.  Finally forced our way over and came to a stop just before having to merge onto the Brooklyn-Queens Expressway.
Checked the engine and didn't see anything wrong. Checked the fuel pump relay up front and all looked well. Opened the fuse box cover and noticed some water drippings and sludge in the plastic cover (have to remember to check out the windshield washer hose that I've been suspicious of!) but fuses were fine.
With all the cars zooming by, it was hard to hear (even with windows rolled up and sweat rollin' off us) if we were getting 2 clicks with the turn of the key, so Daniel put his ear to the relay under the seat and it was fine. Then he shoved his head under the wheel while I turned the key and discovered that the relay up front was not clicking.
Went back to the engine to check wires when we saw that that PITA wire #19 that caused us so much difficulty 2 summers ago decided to do THIS
(I removed the connector it broke out of before taking the photo):
By this time, TWO tow trucks were lined up in front of us salivating....
One driver stood by and watched us fiddle with trying to get a new connector onto that brittle wire when Daniel remembered that we could just as easily jump it to ground and be on our way 
We used a jumper wire that was already set up for other purposes - a ridiculously long coil of wire:
Car started right up. I think the tow truck driver shed a tear at the lost $. We made it home (about a 10 minute drive...don't these things always happen close to home?) without incident.
Unfortunately, a casualty of our initial panic was this, which we'd been babying since we've had the car:
FWIW, the sniffer readings seemed fine, but we may need to double check when we have clearer heads and can record the data.
About wire 19...any suggestions? It's SO short and SO brittle that I think the best way to keep it in play is to extend it before reconnecting it. However, I don't want to add potential weak spots to the harness. Daniel is of the opinion that we should run a new wire alongside the main harness from back to front and call that wire 19. |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22431
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2014 5:10 am Post subject: |
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| neena wrote: |
About wire 19...any suggestions? It's SO short and SO brittle that I think the best way to keep it in play is to extend it before reconnecting it. However, I don't want to add potential weak spots to the harness. Daniel is of the opinion that we should run a new wire alongside the main harness from back to front and call that wire 19. |
I think Dan is right on the money. I only say that, as I think you've got a new JSM Engineering FI harness (didn't want to go back thru the entire thread, but remember you guys discussing it), and all of those wires should be nice and flexible, which just leaves the #19 wire as being the old brittle one left doing any FI duties.
But, I only say that as the other power wires in the engine bay (for the engine itself) seem to be of a better quality than the FI wires (my experience with them over 20 years time). Just a thought.
P.S. Nice catch on the problem, and quick solution. Might be worth having a slightly shorter jumper lead left in the car. 
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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D/A/N
Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2010
Posts: 2227
Location: 11222
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| Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2014 6:28 am Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| neena wrote: |
About wire 19...any suggestions? It's SO short and SO brittle that I think the best way to keep it in play is to extend it before reconnecting it. However, I don't want to add potential weak spots to the harness. Daniel is of the opinion that we should run a new wire alongside the main harness from back to front and call that wire 19. |
I think Dan is right on the money. I only say that, as I think you've got a new JSM Engineering FI harness (didn't want to go back thru the entire thread, but remember you guys discussing it), and all of those wires should be nice and flexible, which just leaves the #19 wire as being the old brittle one left doing any FI duties.
But, I only say that as the other power wires in the engine bay (for the engine itself) seem to be of a better quality than the FI wires (my experience with them over 20 years time). Just a thought.
P.S. Nice catch on the problem, and quick solution. Might be worth having a slightly shorter jumper lead left in the car. |
Yep....it's a harness from Joe (where did he go off to anyway?) and maybe only 1.5 years old with perfectly heat shrunk and labelled wire ends and connectors, so I don't want to cut anything there.
How realistic is it to imagine that we could slice into the main harness sheath and use a fish tape or something to run the wire up front through the sheath? I imagine the sheath would probably split from age but figured it'd be worth an ask. Alongside would probably be easier, just not quite as clean.
We definitely have to shorten that jumper and maybe get some better connectors on there......those roach clips are one NYC pothole away from popping off at the wrong moment!! |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22431
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2014 6:41 am Post subject: |
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| D/A/N wrote: |
How realistic is it to imagine that we could slice into the main harness sheath and use a fish tape or something to run the wire up front through the sheath? I imagine the sheath would probably split from age but figured it'd be worth an ask. Alongside would probably be easier, just not quite as clean. |
I personally don't think you can fish tape another wire inside the main harness.
You'd be better off running the new wire along side it, and or thru a different area (with grommets) altogether. I only say that, as the sheething around the main harness is slightly shrunk when made, and then you have points in it where other wires join in that are actually taped inside. I'd just make it as easy on myself as I possibly could. But make sure it's out of the way from getting snagged on stuff.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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Tram
Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 22728
Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
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| Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2014 8:58 am Post subject: |
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| D/A/N wrote: |
| Bobnotch wrote: |
| neena wrote: |
About wire 19...any suggestions? It's SO short and SO brittle that I think the best way to keep it in play is to extend it before reconnecting it. However, I don't want to add potential weak spots to the harness. Daniel is of the opinion that we should run a new wire alongside the main harness from back to front and call that wire 19. |
I think Dan is right on the money. I only say that, as I think you've got a new JSM Engineering FI harness (didn't want to go back thru the entire thread, but remember you guys discussing it), and all of those wires should be nice and flexible, which just leaves the #19 wire as being the old brittle one left doing any FI duties.
But, I only say that as the other power wires in the engine bay (for the engine itself) seem to be of a better quality than the FI wires (my experience with them over 20 years time). Just a thought.
P.S. Nice catch on the problem, and quick solution. Might be worth having a slightly shorter jumper lead left in the car. |
Yep....it's a harness from Joe (where did he go off to anyway?) and maybe only 1.5 years old with perfectly heat shrunk and labelled wire ends and connectors, so I don't want to cut anything there.
How realistic is it to imagine that we could slice into the main harness sheath and use a fish tape or something to run the wire up front through the sheath? I imagine the sheath would probably split from age but figured it'd be worth an ask. Alongside would probably be easier, just not quite as clean.
We definitely have to shorten that jumper and maybe get some better connectors on there......those roach clips are one NYC pothole away from popping off at the wrong moment!! |
You could stick a permanent wire in there with a switch for emergency purposes, or a male/ female insulated connector to slip together. Just don't leave it on with #19 functioning.
Why not gingerly slice the sheath open an inch or two and attach a new wire to fresh meat? The rest of 19 is probably fine up in there since it's protected. When you are done, snugly tape the sheath back up.
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| Bryan67 wrote: |
| Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
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D/A/N
Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2010
Posts: 2227
Location: 11222
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| Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2014 10:02 am Post subject: |
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| Tram wrote: |
| D/A/N wrote: |
| Bobnotch wrote: |
| neena wrote: |
About wire 19...any suggestions? It's SO short and SO brittle that I think the best way to keep it in play is to extend it before reconnecting it. However, I don't want to add potential weak spots to the harness. Daniel is of the opinion that we should run a new wire alongside the main harness from back to front and call that wire 19. |
I think Dan is right on the money. I only say that, as I think you've got a new JSM Engineering FI harness (didn't want to go back thru the entire thread, but remember you guys discussing it), and all of those wires should be nice and flexible, which just leaves the #19 wire as being the old brittle one left doing any FI duties.
But, I only say that as the other power wires in the engine bay (for the engine itself) seem to be of a better quality than the FI wires (my experience with them over 20 years time). Just a thought.
P.S. Nice catch on the problem, and quick solution. Might be worth having a slightly shorter jumper lead left in the car. |
Yep....it's a harness from Joe (where did he go off to anyway?) and maybe only 1.5 years old with perfectly heat shrunk and labelled wire ends and connectors, so I don't want to cut anything there.
How realistic is it to imagine that we could slice into the main harness sheath and use a fish tape or something to run the wire up front through the sheath? I imagine the sheath would probably split from age but figured it'd be worth an ask. Alongside would probably be easier, just not quite as clean.
We definitely have to shorten that jumper and maybe get some better connectors on there......those roach clips are one NYC pothole away from popping off at the wrong moment!! |
You could stick a permanent wire in there with a switch for emergency purposes, or a male/ female insulated connector to slip together. Just don't leave it on with #19 functioning.
Why not gingerly slice the sheath open an inch or two and attach a new wire to fresh meat? The rest of 19 is probably fine up in there since it's protected. When you are done, snugly tape the sheath back up. |
Yeah, I guess that would be the most direct thing to do, but that wire has been giving us grief since we got the car and it hasn't survived any fixes any of us have attempted. If this had happened while we were cruising at 70 on the NYS Thruway where everyone else drives 80+ and tailgates like crazy, we probably would have gotten into an accident. Of course anything other than this wire could also happen at any time, but neurotic as I am, I'm inclined to bypass the wire in the harness so as not to have to think about it anymore. For the next day or so, we can use the jumper until we settle on a solution after looking at 19 further up the sheath to see how trustworthy it is.
The stupid fucker is already popping again too. I'm gonna buy stock in Permatex. 
Or else get those flanges welded on! 
From what I recall of yesterday's sniffer readings, the system is healthy.....cold idle AFR at 11.5, warm idle around 12.5, high 12's, low 13's when cruising but I still aim to record a more thorough drive when we get a chance to get a more thorough picture. |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22431
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2014 6:16 pm Post subject: |
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| Tram wrote: |
Why not gingerly slice the sheath open an inch or two and attach a new wire to fresh meat? The rest of 19 is probably fine up in there since it's protected. When you are done, snugly tape the sheath back up. |
They could probably do that, but with all the trouble they've had over the last year or so, I think just abandoning it where it is, and running a new wire might be a simple fix that shouldn't give any new problems. I mean the last thing you want to do is slice the harness open, splice in a new end section, and have a faulty splice cause a problem.  Remember Tram, not everyone has one those really good high tech crimping tools to make a really good crimp.
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| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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