TJ's Sand-Rail Build- Starting Completely from Scratch

clemsonkid1993

Hi, I have been lurking for about a month now and I have decided to finally contribute to this immense base of knowledge. For a high school "senior project" a friend and I have decided to purchase and old VW bug, weld our own frame, and have a sick rail-car to drive to our graduation. Very Happy

We're both fairly well versed in motors and metal fabrication because we've grown up around the stuff, so plain ability is not a problem.

The weekend before Christmas we purchased our starter car from a user on this site, poman. An interesting aside: as you can tell, our trailer was much too small. However, seeing that we were three hours from home we made due, resulting in the scariest haul of our live. Four hours of bending axles and groaning trailers will make a man out of anyone.
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We are the proud owners of a 1969 Volkswagen Bug, much to our parent's dismay.

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Since then we have been busy gutting the interior and hauling away scrap to the local scrap yard to make cash. Yesterday I finally removed the body from the pan.
This is the barn we are working out of, along with the car before I lifted the body off.
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Using a four-wheeler with a utility winch and pulley I lifted the body straight into the air.

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Finally I turned the body out the barn door.

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My question is this: what now? What would be the next logical thing to remove/clean up/save to help us on the buggy build?

kbwakesk8 · Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 1:50 pm Post subject:

http://www.theworldinmymind.com/the_build.html

i have a lot of pics on there how big do you want to go
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clemsonkid1993 · Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:18 am Post subject:

That's an awesome build. I am welding my own frame from top to bottom though because the pan under the bug I bought is shot to hell. What about transmission problems and what to look for? The transmission spins freely and the clutch seems to be working, but I am unsure of the internal gears? What can I do to check/rehab the tranny?

[email protected] · Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 3:18 pm Post subject:

This book was in my library: http://www.amazon.com/Build-Dune-Buggy-Motorbooks-International/dp/1880524260

It is a good start for a checklist of what you need to build a rail.
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1974 Standard Beetle to Baja Bug
http://picasaweb.google.com/fvee1234/BajaBug02#

clemsonkid1993 · Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 7:51 pm Post subject:

I just picked up this 1300 SP engine and I have a few questions. I heard it crank and run, and I revved it and it sounded normal, no loping or anything. I need to know what these little outlet pipes are for? I circled them in green:
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These pipes are not connected to anything, and the PO claimed that they were blocked and only important on dual port motors? I also am having trouble figuring out what size belt to run between the generator and the crankshaft? I am also wondering if there are any benefits to changing from a generator to an alternator? Thanks.
_________________
'01 Jeep TJ
'76 Chevrolet C-10 with rebuilt 350
'69 Bug- Soon to be rail car

clemsonkid1993 · Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 8:27 pm Post subject:

I promise I'm not trying to top-post, but I forgot one of my questions. The distributor currently on the motor does not have a place to attach vacuum lines, but the carb has a port for them? Do I need to just plug the hole on the carb and forget about it or do I need a different carb?
_________________
'01 Jeep TJ
'76 Chevrolet C-10 with rebuilt 350
'69 Bug- Soon to be rail car

retterath · Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 8:34 pm Post subject:

The tubes circled are for the heat risers. They warm the carb in cold weather.
The distributor is likely a 009, the basic performance replacement unit. It is not the correct one for the carb, but if it runs good, don't sweat it. If there's a hesitation just above idle, the 009 could be your culprit.

I would just install it and see what happens. You might be fine.

clemsonkid1993 · Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 11:09 am Post subject:

I am finally ready to begin welding my frame! I have about $800 worth of steel DOM tubing and it's time to start welding!
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I am also removing my transmission from my current donor vehicle and I have run into a few problems. Namely the 12 point bolts on the drive end of the axle have stripped out, and I am left with a bolt on each side of the tranny that has an entirely stripped head. What is the best way to remove these final bolts?
_________________
'01 Jeep TJ
'76 Chevrolet C-10 with rebuilt 350
'69 Bug- Soon to be rail car

forkzilla · Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 11:32 am Post subject:

I had the same problem. I used a new 6" pipe wrench to loosen them. That worked fine.

clemsonkid1993 · Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 11:54 am Post subject:

The pipe wrench worked even on the round heads?
_________________
'01 Jeep TJ
'76 Chevrolet C-10 with rebuilt 350
'69 Bug- Soon to be rail car

[email protected] · Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 1:19 pm Post subject:

A pipe wrench, vise grips, or cut a slot and use a regular screwdriver bit

also just cut the head off the bolt
_________________
1974 Standard Beetle to Baja Bug
http://picasaweb.google.com/fvee1234/BajaBug02#

clemsonkid1993 · Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 8:13 pm Post subject:

I finally got my transmission out! It seems like there wasn't a clear thread on how to remove a transmission for a bug, so heres my crack at it. I know it seems like a simple task but dumb people like me prefer pictures.

First off remove the eight bolts from the transmission side of the drive axle, they are 8 mm triple square or twelve point, either will work. There are eight on each axle.
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Then remove the two bolts on the front, under side of the transmission. They are 17 mm I believe. Also remove the ground strap on driver side bolt.
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Then open the small service hatch found in the middle of the bug under the back seat. Remove the small self tapping screw found holding the shift rod to the transmission. I dont remember the size, just use a crescent wrench, its only hand tightened.
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Finally put a jack under back end of the transmission, with a 2x4 or something to support the weight of the tranny. They only weigh like eighty pounds but your life will be easier if you take the weight off of those bolts. There are two ways to disconnect the back end of the transmission. You can unbolt the two large bolts that connect the bracket to the frame, or you can remove the bracket from the transmission. The large carrier bolts are 27 mm hex bolts that have been torqued to hell and back, so a breaker bar is required. Alternatively, you can just remove the 13 mm bolts on each side, and the two bolts found on the extreme underside of the bracket. These bolts disconnect the rubber bushings from the carrier bracket and completely free the transmission.
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The bolts circled in red are the ones I would suggest removing. Finally unscrew the wing nut that attaches the clutch cable to the clutch and unhook the remaining electrical connections. Also, remove the starter motor (I don't have pictures because I previously removed mine for repairs). Just pull the transmission towards the rear of the car and it should come free.
_________________
'01 Jeep TJ
'76 Chevrolet C-10 with rebuilt 350
'69 Bug- Soon to be rail car

acoupleofwildandcrazyguys · Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 8:45 pm Post subject:

nice looking write-up. Cool

_________________
-Lee-
1969 Beetle & 1500 single port -----> budget sand rail

clemsonkid1993 · Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:09 pm Post subject:

Can anyone help me on identifying which transmission I have? It is an IRS from a 1969.
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_________________
'01 Jeep TJ
'76 Chevrolet C-10 with rebuilt 350
'69 Bug- Soon to be rail car

joescoolcustoms · Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:12 pm Post subject:

The "AH" code identifies it as a 4.12:1 ratio ring and pinion, double side cover transaxle. It matches up correctly to your year.
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The early bird might get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone

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clemsonkid1993 · Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:34 pm Post subject:

Thanks. What steps would you suggest I take in order to rehab this transmission? I plan to flush and change the fluid, as well as replacing all the rings and seals. Is there anything else to do short of cracking the case open and polishing it up?
_________________
'01 Jeep TJ
'76 Chevrolet C-10 with rebuilt 350
'69 Bug- Soon to be rail car

joescoolcustoms · Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 10:16 pm Post subject:

clemsonkid1993 · Posted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:31 am Post subject:

How does this kit look as far as replacing seals and gaskets go?
http://www.evwparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc? Does it look like it has all the seals I would need? What about rehabbing the CV joints? I know I am going to need to replace the boots but are there any other parts I need to replace?
_________________
'01 Jeep TJ
'76 Chevrolet C-10 with rebuilt 350
'69 Bug- Soon to be rail car

joescoolcustoms · Posted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 9:23 am Post subject:

The link you supplied just goes to their website, not a gasket kit.

There site does not offer much for tranny parts. But, cip1 does.
http://www2.cip1.com/searchresults.asp?cat=1003

2 of part number VWC-113-517-289-A for the flange cup seals.
2 of part number VWC-113-301-189-F for the axle flange seals.
1 of part number VWC-113-311-113-A for the input shaft seal.
4 of part number C13-86-1084-D for the CV grease and boots.

You will have to take the CV's apart to clean and inspect them to see if any hard parts are needed. Only use CV grease on CV's.
_________________
The early bird might get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone

Member of Wagenfolks
http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/870707.jpg
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=479740

clemsonkid1993 · Posted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 10:54 am Post subject:

I'm sorry, I posted the wrong link.
http://www.evwparts.com/vwparts/BugIRSTrans/111398005A.html
This kit seems to have the input shaft seals and such. Are the tranny gaskets worth changing?
_________________
'01 Jeep TJ
'76 Chevrolet C-10 with rebuilt 350
'69 Bug- Soon to be rail car

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