Kyle TX, 63 Ragtop project

[dschup]

1 YEAR UPDATE!!

I just realized I started this thread one year ago....and it is time for an update anyway.

Awhile back I thought it might be a cool idea to make my own interior panels. I went to the fabric store and found this on sale.

Looks good so I got a sheet of 1/8" masonite and cut some out.

Then I cut out a backing material for the fabric and ironed it to the cloth.

Then I prepped the panels with tacky glue. The coins are there temporarily while gluing. When I remove the coins, there is no glue on that small area so I can insert the clips easier when I install the panels.

That's as far as I've gotten with the panels. I have to trim and glue the cloth to the back and cut the areas for the seat bolts, door, and window handles. I think they will turn out well. I plan on buying original grey ones later anyway.

I also added a quick shift kit and a roller pedal, one of the unique parts reinforced ones.

Also rebuilt the steering box, news seals 16x24x7 (inner diameter x outer diameter x depth) and 24x37x7 (ID x OD x D) in case anyone needs the info.

big difference from this.... (Yes its the same one)

painted it with a black hammerite.

The engine compartment is getting ready for the new engine! Rebuilt 67/68 transmission with my 63 axles. Wanted the 4.12 R&P for better highway. Thank you buggy warehouse for the transmission. It was funn putting the axles on..still some things to do.

And now, the engine. I had bought a "running" 1600 which is now going to be a spare. Hello 1915 shortblock!! counterweighted crank, full flow, and an Engle cam!!!

Special thanks to my friend Randy Larsen who is putting this together for me!! This is much better than I ever expected to put in this car, so I cannot wait.

Still lots to do to get it driveable. I'll be posting more updates in the future, comments welcome. Thanks for looking!

[sportin-wood]

Looking good! The door panels are looking awesome! Can I ask where you got your steering box seals? How hard was it to rebuild it? Keep up the awesome work!
_________________
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Paused 66 project bug
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"Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman. He's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it." --- Jeff Spicoli

[VW Habit]

Same question here - where did you get the seals?

[dschup]

Bohls bearing in Austin special ordered the seals for me. $15 for both w/tax. You can also order them on ebay for about the same price, just search the term "seal" and the size you need. They ordered two of each, so they might have one set left.

The sizes are written on the seal. I brought the seals and parts of the steering box just in case I needed them for measurement. Any bearing supply store should be able to order the seals.

Ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metric-Oil-Shaft-Seal-16-x...2326be5b59

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metric-Oil-Shaft-Seal-24-x...255d1a3a54

My 63 needed: 16x24x7 and 24x37x7

As far as rebuilding the steering box, it wasn't too bad. Here are a few pointers if you are going to try it.

The part that the pitman arm attaches too goes through a brass bushing inside the box. Be sure to thoroughly clean it before pushing it up through the box. If you have to use a hammer, its not clean enough, you WILL damage the bushing. Damage to the bushing will affect the smoothness of your steering.Clean dirt and sand down any rust before pushing the part through the box. Be careful around the area near the seal

Clean the part that couples to the steering column as well in the same manner.

To remove the top of the steering box, you will have to remove the nut around the adjusting bolt. Then you have to tighten the adjusting bolt while holding the top in place. This will force the top up. (Remove the four top bolts prior to doing this)

The large nut on the front was a pain. I didn't have anything large enough to loosen it. I ended up putting it in my bench vise and using a prybar to turn the steering box and loosen the large nut. Your mileage may vary, but it will have to come off. I had the prybar between the pitman arm and the box.

There are two bearings inside the steering box, do not lose them or remember which way they go in.

I had to also make my own gasket for the top, this was relatively easy with a piece of 1/64" gasket paper from O'Reilly.

For $20 I was able to rebuild the steering box, it did take a few hours of disassembly, cleaning, painting, 0000 steel wool, and assembly.

I did use Hondabond (liquid gasket) on the paper gasket and around the edges of the seals to ensure no leaks. I used a thin layer of grease on the inside edge of the seals during installation.

If you have the time and the inclination, do it yourself, for another $60 you could probably just buy a new one. I like figuring out how things work on my VW and now I am just that much more familiar with the car and have a sense of accomplishment from trying. Besides, it was in bad shape when I started so I couldnt have used it as is anyway. I realize this is a hard description to follow without pictures, if I find any of the process, I will post them.

[VW Habit]

That's great info. Thanks!

[dschup]

BIG UPDATE!

1915 engine is in and running!! well out of a can, but it's running!!
Wheels are all on the ground, now I just have to do all the little stuff before it's driveable... like heat exchanger tubes.

Seems to sit right where I wanted it in the back, 1 outer spline.

Electrical progress little by little.

[mykidsbug]

sweat!

[benchracer1]

What type of grease or oil do you refill the box with? I have one that needs a rebuild....Steve

[roy63]

cool build love me some 63 ragtop action!
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Some day when the rust is gone, I will at last found inner peace... (Peace has Been Found)

"Wide awake, and keeping distance from my soul"

[dschup]

[Madd Maxx]

[dschup]

I cut the threads off the bottom of the pipe bowl. It screwed into a metal mouthpiece? Don't know what to call it other than that. I cut up a broken OG shift knob and glued the threaded part (basically the core) inside the pipe bowl so it would screw onto my shifter like normal. I will take a picture of it tomorrow if possible.

[philheese]

Hey, great build. I also have a 63 rag and the floorpans and heater channels have been done. It is running and driving and stopping. Now I'm putting fenders on it and after that my body guy can squeeze it in for paint, hopefully. I can't wait to see it with new paint.
Keep up the good work!

[dschup]

APRIL 2014 UPDATE

Finishing up the drivers seat, it needed a new spring on the backrest. I scored a beat up ghia seat back that looked like it might work. A bit different, but the spring fit well. (Black towards bottom)

Should have the seat done this week, then I can sit in it again...

New Carbs: 40mm Dellorto DRLA's much better than the 34 pict 3 on it now

[nvrgvupjw]

Any more progress/pictures to post on your '63 ragtop project? How is the 1915 running? How did you jet the dual Dells (mains, idles, airs, etc.)?

My daily driver '63 non-ragtop is a mild performance 1600CC, but I intend to go to a 1915 or larger. My '63 ragtop project will be over 2000CCs.

Thanks for your posts!

[dschup]

Wow, I need to get with the program. Just reinstalled the engine after way too long. It was running but had a clutch problem. I put on a new pressure plate and that seems to have solved the issue. I don't have it running but it rolls while in gear with the clutch pedal depressed. One change has led to another and I've mainly been gaining pieces here and there.

Engine in, 36hp style shroud,now to add carbs and connect everything (fingers crossed)

New wheels, OG vert decklid in the background - its tweaked a bit so if anyone knows how to straighten one, please enlighten me...

Also bought more bumpers, an 019 screamer, and a roof rack. Need time more than anything.

Thanks for looking, I'm still here.

[grandpa pete]

[dschup]

Thanks for the compliments! I seem to be doing this backwards, collecting all the goodies, then moving on to bodywork. The only problem with the panels, they are too thick for the panel clips. I'm still trying to sort that out, I seem to re-tackle the problem every six months.

[dschup]

So tonight I started working on my roof rack clamps. One turnbuckle was ok, the other had the reverse threaded piece stuck in it. I decided to order new M8x1.25 turnbuckles, reverse thread M8x1.25 studs and Left Hand M8 nuts. I'm still waiting on a few pieces of hardware, but decided to try making the hook part. The first try isn't to bad. My main problem is heating the correct portion of the 3/16" rod and getting the bends correct. Once again, if anyone has tried this, please give me some pointers.

Close, but the lengths are off and the round portions aren't the same on both hooks. Try some more experimenting tomorrow.

[dschup]

Still going, working on a rebuilt 1600 longblock. It has a couple small issues where the crank pulley tin and sled tins attach. I'm attempting to fix the issues with QuikSteel.

For the crank pulley, half of the threads were missing but I could just get a screw tight on the last thread or two. I decided to cut the head off a longer screw and will use it as a stud with a nut on the end. I added QuikSteel after tightening the new "stud" and am hoping for the best. The new stud is the correct length and will not touch the crank pulley.

For the sled tins, I'm adding material then threading the QuikSteel with an M6x1.00 tap. If I don't feel comfortable with the threads, I'll just run a bolt all the way through and put a nut on the other side.

And the 1600 engine. I still have the 1915, but its got some leaks and I want to drive this year

Found some good stuff at the 2017 Texas VW classic, great view from up here!