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karu Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2008 Posts: 229 Location: Cross Lanes, WV
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Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 11:46 am Post subject: karu's buggy build |
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Hi folks,
I bought a boss buggy (I am assuming!) body few years back and kept it in storage and occasionally worked on patching up cuts and holes. Bought it on ebay from someone in Long Island and dragged it home to Charleston, WV. At the time, I have never seen a buggy except on online photos. However, I really wanted to have one.
After few years, finally I decided to seriously start building it.
As a side note, I have been reading almost everything on samba kit car and performance forums. I have learned a great deal and thanks for all of you who contributed.
This is the beginning of a super slow buggy build. Since this is my first build, I want to do it right and take my time.
I got this chassis from Mike (Forkzilla) who is a really nice guy and it is a great chassis with no significant rust at all. Thanks Mike!
Here are some pictures of what I have been doing.
Chassis.
Disassembling chassis. Used a cheap turnbuckle (rated to 800 lbs) from Harbor Freight to release spring plates. Worked out pretty easy.
Took about a week to measure, measure again and again ..., cut the chassis. After all that, I still forgot about the emergency brake tubes and cut right through them!!!
Here is the welded chassis. After sandblasting, I washed it. It started rusting immediately within minutes. Used kbs rustblast hoping it will preserve the body till I paint it. Streaks are the residues from rustblast and rust.
Here is my sanding setup.
I wanted to trace the shape of the chassis exactly. Took a piece of wire, wrapped it tightly around the pen and used it to trace the shape on to the tube on three sides.
Seems like it works.
This is rear of the perimeter I am planning on building. I like the chassis to be as stiff as possible. Nothing welded yet.
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wvbowtieman Samba Member
Joined: September 16, 2010 Posts: 195
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Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 1:28 pm Post subject: |
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Looking good.....but they are all super slow buggy builds. |
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karu Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2008 Posts: 229 Location: Cross Lanes, WV
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Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 2:30 pm Post subject: |
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wvbowtieman wrote: |
Looking good.....but they are all super slow buggy builds. |
Thanks!!!
They sure are!!!!!
I am following your build. Really good workmanship. Looking forward to seeing it all finished. |
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sbussard Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2011 Posts: 432 Location: Pittsburgh, PA (near enough)
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Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 6:49 pm Post subject: |
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Looking good. I really like the turnbuckle idea for the spring plates. It looks like you'd be in complete control.
Any pics of the boss buggy you have?
Scott |
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joescoolcustoms Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2006 Posts: 9054 Location: West By God Virginia
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Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 5:51 am Post subject: |
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I have been wondering how you have been doing on the build. I like the approach with the box tubing.
They do take a lot of time and effort, but are so fun to drive once completed. Keep working at it and it will get done.
The only good tip I can give is to totally build the buggy up to putting fluids in it without painting the major items, pull it apart, perform your final paint then put it together for the final time. This will avoid re-do's when you change you mind on something or slip and scratch it.
Also, give a shout out if you need a hand on something that is difficult/heavy to do by yourself, I am not that far away. _________________ Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race
Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.
Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone |
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karu Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2008 Posts: 229 Location: Cross Lanes, WV
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Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 7:03 am Post subject: |
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joescoolcustoms wrote: |
I have been wondering how you have been doing on the build. I like the approach with the box tubing.
They do take a lot of time and effort, but are so fun to drive once completed. Keep working at it and it will get done.
The only good tip I can give is to totally build the buggy up to putting fluids in it without painting the major items, pull it apart, perform your final paint then put it together for the final time. This will avoid re-do's when you change you mind on something or slip and scratch it.
Also, give a shout out if you need a hand on something that is difficult/heavy to do by yourself, I am not that far away. |
Thanks so much Joe. Down the road I think I will have to take on your offer for help.
It takes lots of time, specially for someone like me with zero fabrication experience. 70% of the time is spent sitting down and thinking about the best way to do something. Then to start it and see that it may not work.
As for painting, I will wait till the buggy is done entirely, then disassemble it and paint.
You guys seem to have fun at wagonfolks meetings. One of these days, I will join you.
Here are some more pics. Red lines are ones I need to fabricate. Plan is to do only one pair and do the welding (tacking), then add the rest of the pieces.
Plan for the front end is to extend it to beams and use beam clamps (yellow lines).
I am also planning on running a pair of 1"X1" tubes right underneath the tunnel and weld some cross members to tie it up with the rest o the tubing.
I possibly am overbuilding. My wife tells me like in cartoons, tunnel will come off at the weld joint and I will be driving only the front half of the car. Pretty hard to shake the image off my head. .
I remember you said I will need at least one inch of body lift. I used 2X2 tubing which gives me exactly that much. Thanks for the tip.
Last edited by karu on Fri Jun 15, 2012 9:07 am; edited 1 time in total |
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karu Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2008 Posts: 229 Location: Cross Lanes, WV
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Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 7:19 am Post subject: |
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sbussard wrote: |
Looking good. I really like the turnbuckle idea for the spring plates. It looks like you'd be in complete control.
Any pics of the boss buggy you have?
Scott |
Hi Scott,
I picked the turnbuckle idea from an online posting. Haven't tried any other method but this worked really well for me.
Here are some photos of the body. The person I bought it from is a buggy enthusiast. He got the body from someone else who really mutilated the body. We we wondering why on earth you need to drill zillion holes in the body, cut off one side of the headlamp mount, well!!!!! I can go on and on.
Luckily for me, except for deliberate hacking, there is no other damage.
These photos are after I spent considerable time doing repairs. Still there is some work to be done.
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joescoolcustoms Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2006 Posts: 9054 Location: West By God Virginia
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Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 7:24 am Post subject: |
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As I just found out myself, no two "old" buggy bodies are the same. Before final welding, test fit your body several times to ensure the body matches the perimeter box tubing frame you are fabricating. Since you are fabricating purely from scratch, you can make the perimeter frame fit the contour of the old body perfectly with little gaps or misalignment.
I have one complete pan that one of my bodies fit perfectly, but the other body does not even come close to fitting. David had to widen his fiberglass body to fit his pan.
I think your approach will be very strong, and safe. _________________ Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race
Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.
Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone |
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karu Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2008 Posts: 229 Location: Cross Lanes, WV
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Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 11:23 am Post subject: |
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joescoolcustoms wrote: |
As I just found out myself, no two "old" buggy bodies are the same. Before final welding, test fit your body several times to ensure the body matches the perimeter box tubing frame you are fabricating. Since you are fabricating purely from scratch, you can make the perimeter frame fit the contour of the old body perfectly with little gaps or misalignment.
I have one complete pan that one of my bodies fit perfectly, but the other body does not even come close to fitting. David had to widen his fiberglass body to fit his pan.
I think your approach will be very strong, and safe. |
Thanks for the tip Joe. I will check it before I complete the welds. I am using measurements from the body for the width of the perimeter. Hopefully I should not be off by too much.
Upali |
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manxbuggy Samba Member
Joined: August 29, 2006 Posts: 131 Location: Seattle, Wa
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Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 11:33 am Post subject: |
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For someone with “zero fabrication experience” you look to be doing a great job on your buggy! I like the way you scribed the frame rail to the chassis backbone, and the headlight mount fiberglass repair!
Another thing you might want to consider before you put the metal cutting and welding equipment away, is to mock-up your seating position & controls. I wound up relocating my shifter and e-brake rearward in order to not have to reach for 1st & 3rd gear.
Keep up the great work & post lots of pictures please!
Rob |
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karu Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2008 Posts: 229 Location: Cross Lanes, WV
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Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 7:05 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the complements Rob.
I will mock up the seating and pedals to get a feel for it. I am not very confident that I can relocate the shifter or the ebrake lever. Well! if it is really needed, guess I will have to do it. Thanks for the heads up. |
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karu Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2008 Posts: 229 Location: Cross Lanes, WV
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Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 12:14 pm Post subject: |
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I have a quick question. Bentley manual says what I have marked in the following diagram is wheel lock stop.
1. Is it to limit the amount of wheel turn?
2. Can I remove it as it interferes with the beam clamps I am planning on adding?
Yesterday I removed the mill scale from tubes using muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid at 30% concentration diluted to 10%) and after cleaning and neutralizing the left over acid, sprayed inside with a weld through primer.
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gr8cobbler Samba Member
Joined: May 04, 2006 Posts: 916 Location: Midlife Crisis, Midwest
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Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 3:13 pm Post subject: |
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yep, its a steering stop and you can remove it with no ill effects. Most sand rails require they be removed, I removed mine when I made a custom frame head. Your joints look nicely fitted, that will make the welding easier and end up with stronger joints. I'm not much of a welder which has helped me be a great grinder.... _________________ Gary
Being a cheap old fart is just a front for my actual lack of money. |
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karu Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2008 Posts: 229 Location: Cross Lanes, WV
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Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 5:29 pm Post subject: |
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gr8cobbler wrote: |
yep, its a steering stop and you can remove it with no ill effects. Most sand rails require they be removed, I removed mine when I made a custom frame head. Your joints look nicely fitted, that will make the welding easier and end up with stronger joints. I'm not much of a welder which has helped me be a great grinder.... |
Thanks for the help and the complements cobbler. I am not much of a welder either. Started it about a year ago and been practicing ever since.
I like your signature line. Quite funny. |
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73SpeedBuggy Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2006 Posts: 874 Location: Warminster, PA
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Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 8:54 am Post subject: |
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Depending on your wheels and tires, if you remove the steering stop you'll need to be careful at full turn. You may rub your tires on your fiberglass body . _________________ Manxter #39 on a 1971 Pan
Turbo-charged Subaru EJ25D (DOHC)
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3923620/1971-volkswagen-beetle#
-Adam |
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karu Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2008 Posts: 229 Location: Cross Lanes, WV
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Posted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 2:52 pm Post subject: |
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My front wheels are going to be 7X16. Guess I will have to mock up and see if wheels rub against the body. |
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karu Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2008 Posts: 229 Location: Cross Lanes, WV
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 8:01 am Post subject: |
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Here are some more pictures of the chassis.
I got this template of the body on paper at the very beginning which made taking measurements much easier.
Here is a shot of the chassis tack welded. I still have to tie up the front end.
Rest of the photos are with body on the chassis. I am very happy with the fit. I also have about 1" of body lift as planned.
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joescoolcustoms Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2006 Posts: 9054 Location: West By God Virginia
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 8:18 am Post subject: |
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While the body is sitting on the chassis, install the passenger side trailing arm without the torsion bar. This will allow you to cycle the suspension by hand up and down to make sure the battery well clears the trailing arm.
Mine has to be modified to fit of the arm will hit the body. The 1 inch body lift may be enough, but better to check now than after all welding is complete.
Here is mine, if you look closely you can see how much the body has to be raised to clear.
_________________ Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race
Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.
Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone |
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scooby223 Samba Member
Joined: May 31, 2012 Posts: 106 Location: Beaver Falls Pa
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 8:25 am Post subject: |
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looks good I am a step behind you I just shortened my tunnel yesterday. Why do you need the 1" body lift I was going to use 1x2 tube like others have used on here. I just want to make sure I am not forgetting something then my body hits at a later point. looking good I've been following a few builds on here to get ideas for my build I'm glad I found this site or I'd be lost. |
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joescoolcustoms Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2006 Posts: 9054 Location: West By God Virginia
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 8:46 am Post subject: |
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scooby223 wrote: |
looks good I am a step behind you I just shortened my tunnel yesterday. Why do you need the 1" body lift I was going to use 1x2 tube like others have used on here. I just want to make sure I am not forgetting something then my body hits at a later point. looking good I've been following a few builds on here to get ideas for my build I'm glad I found this site or I'd be lost. |
The battery well that Karu and my buggy body has was made for swing axle chassis. The battery well will hit the IRS trailing arm on the passenger side.
Either the body has to be modified (like some have recently done on this section of the forums) or the body has to be lifted to clear the trailing arm. _________________ Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race
Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.
Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone |
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