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1971 baywindow vapor locking problem
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aircooled4me
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 9:18 pm    Post subject: 1971 baywindow vapor locking problem Reply with quote

I have a 1971 vw camper van that vapor locks when it is hot out. I felt the engine and it doesnt seem to feel to hot but when i look at the gas filter there are bubbles in the filter i dont know what to do any help would be helpful
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One of the little cheap $1.50 clear plastic filters? They usually have air in them and it's no problem. Where is it located? Not wise to have it between the pump and carb. We usually put them right after the tank outlet.
I've never heard of a early bay t-1 engine with the old traditional vapor lock. Mine are driven where it does get hot and never a concern with that type of problem.

Why do you say it has the vapor lock? It won't run? When it's in that condition look down the carb barrel, pull the throttle and see if the accelerator pump is squirting gas. If so then the carb is getting gas.

Do you have a stock fuel pump and carb? If no fuel I'd think your pump is faulty or the carb needs cleaning, a kit, and adjustment. Or the filter screen inside the tank is clogged.

Maybe a coil conking out. Check for spark at the plug wires when and if you have a problem.
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The best thing that anyone can do for their Bay is get the Volkswagen of America Official Service Manual published by Robert Bentley. Without it the bus is pretty much doomed.
73kombi wrote:
when that red light goes on, you have to make a choice.
Amskeptic wrote:
I am not answering that.
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aircooled4me
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 3:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The fuel filter is between the pump and carb and it is full when it happens but i can see air bubbles rising up from the fuel pump wich is brand new i also took it apart to make sure that there was nothing in the pump its self and there was nothing in it. I also took the tank out and had it cleaned and but a liner in it so that is all good too. the carb is brand new 34pict 3 and is adjusted per the official vw repair manuel
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Why do you say it has the vapor lock? It won't run?


I've never come across a VW with vapor lock. But plenty of VW's that had a fuel pump or carb problem. Bubbles don't mean gas isn't getting to the carb.

Maybe a picture to show us you fuel line routing? A filter in the pressure line between the pump and carb is not the good thing for potential fire problems. You might want to read the Fire sticky at the top of the Bay forum page.
_________________
The best thing that anyone can do for their Bay is get the Volkswagen of America Official Service Manual published by Robert Bentley. Without it the bus is pretty much doomed.
73kombi wrote:
when that red light goes on, you have to make a choice.
Amskeptic wrote:
I am not answering that.
Respectfully,
GoBuyABentley

71 Superbug
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telford dorr
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 11:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vapor lock, or heat flooding? When hot, does it start with the pedal floored?
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SGKent
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 11:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

try burning premium in the summer when it is hot. It is less prone to heat flooding / percolation.
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westy66
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 7:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i had this happen to a stroker i built years ago... never did figure it out, so i built another motor and the stroker is sitting in the garage. it was REALLY frustrating. after a highway cruise or when it was 85+ degrees it would die and i would have to wait 20-30 minutes for cool down and then i could drive it again.

ive never heard of "heat flooding" before.... but i did get the little bubbles in the fuel line filter. i put mine in the engine bay between the tank and the pump. i change it twice a year and change the fuel lines every 3 years.
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SGKent
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the fuel in the carb gets so hot after a shut down that it boils into the manifold. The tank gravity feeds and it does it again. One way that car manufactures prevented it was to supply a return line with a restrictor in it back to the tank. That kept the fuel circulating cooler which a few degrees helped. Also make sure that all your cooling tin is in place so the engine does not suck heated air back into the engine bay from underneath. you want cool air from the side vents only being pulled in.
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aircooled4me
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is a new motor with 1,000 miles on it and all of the engine tins are in place. I am running a 36 hp dog housing fan shroud because i plan on running dual carbs one day on my motor it gives more clearance for adjusting the carbs. I am going to try to move the gas filter today and check the timing. It does start with the pedal to the floor when it is hot out but wont start any other way when the motor is hot. I also have the choke on the carb disabled so it doesnt come on at all
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Set your float level and adjust the carb exactly per the service manual. It sounds like a carb issue.

But be sure the timing is good and keep looking for any other problems that might cause overheating. Your problem might be agraviated by heat but heat isn't the problem.
_________________
The best thing that anyone can do for their Bay is get the Volkswagen of America Official Service Manual published by Robert Bentley. Without it the bus is pretty much doomed.
73kombi wrote:
when that red light goes on, you have to make a choice.
Amskeptic wrote:
I am not answering that.
Respectfully,
GoBuyABentley

71 Superbug
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aircooled4me
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 10:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i checked the timing and it was way off i reset it to 8 degrees btdc i am running a 009 dizzy it seams it made it run very good. I set the idle at 900 rpm and the air mixture screw out 2.5 turns. I havent taking it out on any long drives yet to see if it is still going to vapor lock on me or not. The fuel lines are the german cloth covered rubber gas line it goes to the steel line that screws into the inlet side of the fuel pump it leaves the fuel pump and is the german cloth covered rubber gas line into the carb with a fuel filter between the carb and fuel pump.
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

aircooled4me wrote:
i checked the timing and it was way off i reset it to 8 degrees btdc i am running a 009 dizzy .........I set the idle at 900 rpm and the air mixture screw out 2.5 turns. ........... with a fuel filter between the carb and fuel pump.


That's not the way you time an 009. You time them to 28-30 BTDC at max. advance. So rev it up to around 3K and set it. The only concern about checking timing at idle is checking to see if the advance actually functions. Don't set it at idle. Next question- Do you have an aftermarket degree pulley? If not how do you know where TDC is or where 28-30 would be?
2-1/2 turns might be good but was it per the proceedure in the service manual?
You want to get that filter out of the line between the pump and the carb. Please read the fire sticky at the top of the Bay forum page.
_________________
The best thing that anyone can do for their Bay is get the Volkswagen of America Official Service Manual published by Robert Bentley. Without it the bus is pretty much doomed.
73kombi wrote:
when that red light goes on, you have to make a choice.
Amskeptic wrote:
I am not answering that.
Respectfully,
GoBuyABentley

71 Superbug
71 Westy
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aircooled4me
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do have a degree pulley on my motor I will set it that way tonight and keep u posted on how it went thanks for all the advise u have givin me
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