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Subaru EJ22 in the Flatback Bug...
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Quintus
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm actually curious how this will end up (mainly because of the beetle Laughing)..
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JasonBaker
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How about an estimated cost of parts with out parting out a whole car just for the engine. And just buy the harness instead of harvesting it out of the donor??????

Like buying an engine from a junkyard.

Engine=$500
Rebuilt cost=500
Kennedy adapter=600
Wiring harnes= 600
Misc. Fabrication cost=500

I just dont want to have to part out the rest of the car and have it sitting on my property. And deal with peckerheads that want their money back for a used trans that was good when I sold it to them. What relays, electronic, ECU and etc.... will a person need for the conversion...

I know those numbers are fake, I made them up. But can anyone give a real estimate????????????
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could just buy the donor, get the parts you need from it, then call the junkyard to haul it away. Around here they are giving $200 for a car, and they come pick it up.
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madness726
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JasonBaker wrote:
How about an estimated cost of parts with out parting out a whole car just for the engine. And just buy the harness instead of harvesting it out of the donor??????

Like buying an engine from a junkyard.

Engine=$500
Rebuilt cost=500
Kennedy adapter=600
Wiring harnes= 600
Misc. Fabrication cost=500

I just dont want to have to part out the rest of the car and have it sitting on my property. And deal with peckerheads that want their money back for a used trans that was good when I sold it to them. What relays, electronic, ECU and etc.... will a person need for the conversion...

I know those numbers are fake, I made them up. But can anyone give a real estimate????????????


engine Varies but 300-1500+......
dont buy one you need to rebuild.. but if so rebuild 1200+
adapter 475
You cannot buy just a harness that will use the stock ecu. You would have to get it from a donor, with all the sensors it is connected to in the engine compartment, plus the ECU and then pay someone to cut down the wiring harness or do it yourself... But you can buy a stand alone front Outfront motorsports
which is damn near plug and play.. But they still want you to send them all the connectors. 1500 for the stinger ECU with custom harness. (it can aslo run turbo)

Radiator 100+
Fuel pump high volume 100+
fuel pump low volume 60
surge tank 100
shorten sump 300+
and then about 1000 for misc fab stuff.

Most are a close estimate to what I have spent so far.. also estimates are in US dollars.
best way to go if you have a little budget is to get a donor. Plus you can here it run and drive it first..


Also I am not done with my swap yet.. as you can see in the link below..
But every swap varies. depends on what you want to do yourself and how much you are willing to spend.

but I would say a ruff estimate ... it could be done for around $3250 (starting from scratch)
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Joel
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 12:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its hard to put a $$ figure on as no two conversions are the same and there is just too many variables.
I reckon if I did one again I could have it up and running for around $2k as long as I pick up a running donor car for $500 or less which isn't hard but work on atleast $3k if you are doing most of it yourself.
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OTO X58
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 12:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joel wrote:
Its hard to put a $$ figure on as no two conversions are the same and there is just too many variables.
I reckon if I did one again I could have it up and running for around $2k as long as I pick up a running donor car for $500 or less which isn't hard but work on atleast $3k if you are doing most of it yourself.


I don't think I have that much in mine, pre-turbo...

$500 adapter/flywheel
$550 Megasquirt and harness
$150 stainless tubing/ muffler
$150 engine (three times now. LOL)
$150 Radiator
$100 Walbro fuel pump
$100 long rubber coolant hoses
$100 trigger wheel and sensors
$50 fuel line parts / fittings
$50 wiring/relays/fuse block
$0 shortened sump
$0 clutch
$0 gauges
$0
$500 endless other stuff

$2400 TOTAL
Holy crap. That's more than I thought.
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Oakley Diesel
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A donor car is definatly cheaper.
EJ20T 960 shipped
water to air cooler 475
Adapter and clutch 600
Fuel pump and fittings 160
flexable coolant lines and couplers 160
gauges 360
Stinger ecu w/ harness 1500
high torque starter 140
3 inch exhaust w/muffler and resonator 200
electric fans 60 radiator was free
total 4615 Holy crap what did you get me into Joel Very Happy I hope my wife doesnot see this!

This could be done way cheaper without the turbo but I would regret it later,
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Joel
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would have liked a turbo engine but I didn't want to do any bodywork mods and a gearbox that could handle the power so I didnt have to drive it like a nanny was gonna cost more than the whole conversion.

Mine was up and running on $3100 and that included buying a $500 1992 Legacy.

COuld have done it alot cheaper, I paid over $600 for my custom Veedub sump and $250 to get the loom prepped, both stuff I could have done on my own for nothing and save nearly $900 but it was money well spent.
THe sump holds more than stock subi but is nearly 4" shorter, critical on my car which is lowered and travels shit roads and the electrical takes a good 18 or so hours to strip down, all i had to do was connect a couple of wires and it behaves exactly like in a stock subaru with all the original features active.
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Nepenthe88
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 1:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spring's finally arrived... and that means it's time to get back to working on the VW's! I'm really excited to cram the Subee in the back of the Dumass Bug-truck, but first thing's first:

I figure that before I pull the old Aircooled engine, I'd kinda like to see if I could get her running. I'd tried one chilly day last fall and FAILED due to a gum'd up fuel pump. I had plans on replacing it and trying again, but the snows came and that put an end to all my fun. Regardless, I stumbled onto a band new fuel pump today, so I quick bolted it on and.... IT"S ALIVE!!

I probably should have waited for a second pair of hands to join me and work the throttle (the return spring on the carb is missing so I can't control anything up front) but oh well... I don't have any use for the aircooled engine, so I'm just gonna put it on CL after I unbolt her.


Link

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Nepenthe88
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also spent a quick couple minutes in Photoshop playing with the overall design of the thing. I think I'm going to do the following:

--paint it white on top with black bedliner on the bottom (sorry, no more birds I had to look at them out the back window all winter already, and that's plenty!)
--black Sunbug Sport rims (cause I have them and don't want to get too fancy)
--Roof rack with some Hella's
--some home-made Baja-style mirrors
--a wooden bed with simple side rails made from galvanized conduit... I'm considering hinging the bed so I have easy access to what would be the back seat of the bug. There's a lot of wasted space under there. I dunno about that though.
--I'll put disk brakes on the thing front and rear (same as what's on my Red Bug)
--I assume I'll make another custom dash (and sell the one that's in the bug truck currently. It's in great shape, I just hate the way it looks)
--And finally, I'll find another pair of heated, black leather Recaro's to cram in the "cab"

All that with a Subee powerplant should make for a fun little project. Stay tuned!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Ghia Nut
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 5:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Was wondering where the hell this thread went.
Sweet deal man.
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Beetlebaum
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking forward to seeing what goes on with the truck! Very Happy
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Nepenthe88
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slow going over here, I know... I graduated a month ago and I'm studying for my certification exam which I'm scheduled to take in 10 days. BUT! After that, I'll have some free time to put everything together. Regardless, today I bought a RADIATOR!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Joel's Gold standard Alfa 33 rad measures in at: 12" x 20" x 1.25"
My cheap-o 1996 Dodge Neon rad comes in at: 11-3/4" x 23-3/4" x 5/8"

Now if I could, I'd gladly buy the tried and tested Alfa Radiator, but unfortunately the good ol USofA hasn't seen an Alfa drive on her potholed streets in forever, which means there's no stockpile of Alfa rads hanging out in parts warehouses waiting for placement in SuperBeetles. Sadly. You can find them of course-- in the UK or the continent country-- but paying for trans-ocean freight sent the cost to the clouds. Nuts to that! I'm poor and getting poor-er. So, instead I found a "similarly sized" rad at 1/9th the price, and got it shipped for less than it costs to buy myself a sub at the grocery store. Now, the dimensions are slightly askance as the tanks on the Neon rad are top and bottom (not ideal), but I'm tossing about the idea of fabricating a small fairing at the bottom to scoop up some air, and as that would have hung down below the radiator anyway, I don't see this design as a huge net loss. The other major difference is the thickness of each rad. Alfa looks to be double pass, Neon is definitely single pass. So.. it might be true that the neon rad is HALF as large as the gold standard in terms of cooling potential. But whatever! I can't cut the front of the car up and install a radiator without..a RADIATOR, so this gives me some skin in the game and pushes fabrication in the forward direction. I figure the $54.99 I spent (including shipping) will work well enough for temporary (and potentially permanently), and even if it doesn't quite cool the engine well enough in all circumstances, it gives us -- as a community of subee swappers here in the states -- more information to go off of when searching for and installing radiators.

http://www.genesisautoparts.com/product/rad12538X2362a.htm
RADIATOR - 2362A - Dodge Neon RADIATOR (Qty=1, Price=$43.95)

Subtotal: $43.95
Shipping and Handling: $7.19
Coupon Amount: $0.00
Tax: $3.85
Total: $54.99
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Nepenthe88
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2014 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, I'm out $50 bucks, oh well... I scrapped the Neon radiator idea. Thing just wasn't thick enough and I hated the idea of plastic tanks. Soooo... I bought another, different radiator that I think should work a little better. It comes from a "68-73 NISSAN/DATSUN 510 KA24DE MANUAL TRANSMISSION." I bought it here for $125 free shipping:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291113193727?item=29111319...mp;vxp=mtr

It's the same width as the stock subee radiator, but it's like 6" shorter.
Acutal dimensions are:
28.75" wide x 13.25" tall x 2" thick
the alfa rad is:
20" wide x 12" tall x 1.25" thick... so this should more than do the job.

Here's a pic of it in front of the stock subaru "racing" radiator I'm putting in the bus:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Note that it has a rad cap and filler neck which should roughly be the top of the system (even if I have to jack the front of the car up, dammit!!).
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DTA
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nepenthe88 wrote:
So, I'm out $50 bucks, oh well... I scrapped the Neon radiator idea. Thing just wasn't thick enough and I hated the idea of plastic tanks. Soooo... I bought another, different radiator that I think should work a little better. It comes from a "68-73 NISSAN/DATSUN 510 KA24DE MANUAL TRANSMISSION." I bought it here for $125 free shipping:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291113193727?item=29111319...mp;vxp=mtr

It's the same width as the stock subee radiator, but it's like 6" shorter.
Acutal dimensions are:
28.75" wide x 13.25" tall x 2" thick
the alfa rad is:
20" wide x 12" tall x 1.25" thick... so this should more than do the job.

Here's a pic of it in front of the stock subaru "racing" radiator I'm putting in the bus:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Note that it has a rad cap and filler neck which should roughly be the top of the system (even if I have to jack the front of the car up, dammit!!).


You're putting a suby in a bus?
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Nepenthe88
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DTA wrote:
You're putting a suby in a bus?


Thats why i stopped updating this thread... I got sidetracked with the baywindow su-bus-a-roo- project. Very Happy The bus runs and drives but still needs tinkered with. Heres a quick preview:

The engine and temporary exhaust:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


My first trial run (sans muffler)


Link


first road trip:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Followed by my first break-down on the way home:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


and a pic of her today all painted up fancy with some big ol 215/70r16's mounted

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Check the link in my sig for the full 13 page build thread...I'm gonna finish the bus and then do the bug. I'm hoping to be done with both by Sept 17th
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Smurf
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Please share your wiring diagram (ECU/Fuse Block/Relay board) with me Cool

It looks so nice. I want to tidy mine up a bit.
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Keith
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have to ask because I don't remember seeing an answer, what is a "flatback bug" ????
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keith wrote:
I have to ask because I don't remember seeing an answer, what is a "flatback bug" ????


The Domus Flatback kit.

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Keith
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DOH ! I didn't go back a few pages and I had this build confused with a different one. Makes sense now !
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