Author |
Message |
zach1779 Samba Member
Joined: November 25, 2011 Posts: 6 Location: Chandler, AZ
|
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 2:01 am Post subject: So I was adjusting my valves and.... |
|
|
Let me start by saying I'm no stranger to a wrench, but am new to engines. and even newer to aircooled.
I have a Scat 1915 w/ forged 4340 crank. Scat C25 cam. Dual Dellorto DRLA 40mm carbs. 009 distributer. External oil filter.
Or at least that's the recites the PO gave me when I purchased the mostly stock '67 street baja. It gets used as a daily driver.
Anyway, I was adjusting my valves to .005 as was recommended to me for the hot AZ summer. (please let me know if you disagree with the number)
So I found that the #1 cylinder (exhaust?) valve had a different adjustment mechanism than the rest of my valves, including the other valve for cylinder #1. It had an allen head rather than flathead, it also had a different 'endpiece'? that touched the valve spring on it compared to the rest of the valves.
Is this just some kind of mickey mouse nonsense? or should I just leave it be?
And then on the opposite side of the engine, the 'spacer'? that sits between the valves of 3 and 4 was very loose. So much so that I could wiggle it back and fourth with my finger.
Now when I got the bug, the PO said he had just 'build' the engine. He also seemed rather novice so I don't know how 'jerry rigged' things might be.
The same part on the #1/2 side had no movement. Is this something that can be adjusted? is it even a bad thing? or can it just chill like it is?
Please let me know if you need any other specifics to help me out. And thanks for your help
---Zach |
|
Back to top |
|
|
krusher Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2002 Posts: 7652 Location: europe
|
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 2:15 am Post subject: |
|
|
Looks like he just had one bad adjuster and made it work with that missmatched one.
I would be checking that engine for end play. _________________ (06:31:07) RoachGhia: "i drink dick way too fast" |
|
Back to top |
|
|
zach1779 Samba Member
Joined: November 25, 2011 Posts: 6 Location: Chandler, AZ
|
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 2:25 am Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks for your quick reply.
so you think the adjuster is ok?
And I'll do a search for the term, but could you describe 'endplay'? like I said, i'm new to engines, and even newer to aircooled everything. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
zach1779 Samba Member
Joined: November 25, 2011 Posts: 6 Location: Chandler, AZ
|
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 2:37 am Post subject: |
|
|
while I'm at it, I might as well as a few other questions.
The PO put a oil temp and pressure gauge on the car. when hot, the pressure idols around 20psi, and hits 40-50 when on the freeway @ 3100rpm.
Also, I have yet to see the oil temp even hit 180.
I'm gonna take a guess and assume that this is the location of both sender units, if that makes any difference.
I've read about the 10psi per 1k-rpm. is my numbers off due to sensor location? or should I be worried about the health of my engine? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Randy in Maine Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2003 Posts: 34890 Location: The Beach
|
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 5:06 am Post subject: |
|
|
THe OP sender is in the right place, but the OT sender is not. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
zach1779 Samba Member
Joined: November 25, 2011 Posts: 6 Location: Chandler, AZ
|
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 5:18 am Post subject: |
|
|
Which is witch? If I was gonna guess, the plug like thing on the end is the temp sender, while the 'doodad' with the large cylinder attachment is the pressure sender.
And where should the oil temp sender be relocated to?? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Boolean Samba Member
Joined: January 19, 2012 Posts: 1712 Location: Stockholm
|
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 6:06 am Post subject: |
|
|
Anywhere that has a flow of oil around it. The place in the picture isn't that bad if the temp sender was alone there and protruding slightly into the flowing oil.
The flow is important because stagnant oil will become cooler (or hotter depending on where it is) than the bulk of oil.
Right under the oil pickup would have good flow, but may put the sender at some risk of being damaged. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Dale M. Samba Member
Joined: April 12, 2006 Posts: 20380 Location: Just a tiny bit west of Yosemite Valley
|
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 6:27 am Post subject: |
|
|
The rocker arm adjuster is a "fix" for a problem only PO knows what went wrong... Probable ok for now, but probably should find a "match" to other adjusters....
The sleeve "spacer" on rocker shaft should have a little bit of end play, and can be adjusted by either shaving off some of the sleeve if it is too tight or adding shims if to loose...
The unit with the single push on connector is the temp sender and yes it is placed poorly as it is NOT in actual oil flow but off to side... It should be in head or in oil sump.... Where is it is bathed in up to temperature oil...
Round silver can unit is pressure switch and yes 20 psi is good at idle and 40+ is good at about 3500-4000 rpm...
Dale _________________ “Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.
"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
slalombuggy Samba Member
Joined: July 17, 2010 Posts: 9147 Location: Canada
|
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 7:24 am Post subject: |
|
|
The center spacer should have about .010 side play in it since it's a floating style on solid shafts you want about .005 - .007 side play in between the rockers and shaft of pedastal. Your oil tems and pressures are fine like Dale said.
Swivel foot adjusters have a bad habbit of falling apart so the PO probably just found one and stuck it in. If you know the size of the thead in the rocker arm, you can simply buy a set of adjusting screws and replace them, no need for new arms or anything.
brad |
|
Back to top |
|
|
HRVW Samba Member
Joined: May 01, 2011 Posts: 2531 Location: Rosarito, Mexico
|
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 9:53 am Post subject: |
|
|
# 1 exhaust is the Elephant foot adjuster.....have a set on my Turbo 1776cc engine with hydro lifters. They work nicely but may need a spacer or two under the rocker arm support (2) studs. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mark tucker Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2009 Posts: 23937 Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
|
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 10:02 am Post subject: |
|
|
looks like the elefant foot is being over stroked(too much lift for it) I would replase it with a ball type swivel foot like what is on the others.might want to check the geo also.(no not the chevy) |
|
Back to top |
|
|
It's a play thing Samba Member
Joined: November 19, 2009 Posts: 575 Location: Dayton, Nevada
|
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 10:03 am Post subject: |
|
|
When the adjusters are all the way out like that they cant swivel and they bind and sometimes break, you may need shims under the rocker shaft to get the clearance you need. and steel push rods "0" clearance, alum 4-6 . _________________ It's not the size of your shop, it's what comes out of it that counts.
I've been playing with my thing ever since I got it... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|