Fixing up this rail I just picked up.

Neogenesis · Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 8:13 pm Post subject:

I think there is enough left of the stud to weld to, I'll have to give that a shot.

You are correct about Harbor Freight. If it's tools I'm going to use often, I'll spend the money and buy the good stuff. But for something I will only use a handful of times in my life time, Harbor Freight it is.

And on to my work tonight.

Things got off to a rough start straight away. After I got the flat oil cooler off, I realized the bolts were put in backwards, and there was no way to remove them with cutting them off. The first picture speaks for itself, then out came the dremel and I cut the bolts in half.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Next I bolted up the upright cooler.

Then the genny mount.

Now comes the questions.

I've got a aftermarket pulley to go on the crank, and it looks as if there is nothing stopping it from bottoming out. So...question is, is the end of the crank tapered so that it'll pull tight and stop?

Only other question is how does the generator mount to the stand? Not seeing any other parts to go with it at this point. So....what's the most common way to do it?

And the last shot is just a top down....I sat the intakes into place to see how everything was lining up.

tdonaldson · Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2012 4:26 am Post subject:

Metal strap goes around the genny to the stand.

I go through the HB welding gloves like crazy. Use them for everything. And their fluxcore wire isn't bad either.

I'm always iffy about cheap sockets. One minute my herculean force is being applied to the rachet, the next it's being used to apply my knuckles to the side of something.

But to be fair none of the stuff I've got from HB has turned out bad. If you can give it a little feel in the store you can kinda tell whats going on with it.
_________________
"If you had a beer can in your hand the beer would have stopped it, alcohol is a natural force of good that keeps you from getting hurt, unless you're city people...."

Neogenesis · Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 4:23 pm Post subject:

Ok....progress is still being made....after a day of chasing a bad starter and then a bad ignition....I can now turn the engine over and test compression. I then hit another bump in the road.

This time I'm possibly facing a incompatibility with the fan shroud?

I've got the vertical oil cooler installer, shroud bolted up to genny, but I can't get it to sit down far enough to let the generator sit in it's stand. The carb is also hitting the shroud, and the throttle cable sits too low.

Anyone have any ideas? Take a look at the pics and let me know what you think. These parts all came off the old engine however, so that's why I'm stumped as to what I'm missing.

Thanks,

Scott

pafree · Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 5:27 pm Post subject:

ZARJDR · Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 6:11 pm Post subject:

Two things, there are two types of oil coolers, old style, like you have,
and dog house, which offsets toward front of car, and uses the "dog house"
fan shroud, which has a blister or doghouse on its backside to match with the offset oil cooler(this was to eliminate the overheating of cyl #3 caused by oil cooler obstruction). Second, there are generator stands, and there are alternator stands, you have a generator, and you may have stand for
an alternator, which is larger diameter. Hope this helps.
_________________
2006 RAM 1500 HEMI 4X4 92 LT250
06 Raptor DP1776 Sandrail
02 HONDA 400EX
03 YAMAHA WR450F 74 BAJA

Neogenesis · Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 7:36 pm Post subject:

All these parts from the "upper" end came from the PO's engine which he blew. So....I would think it would all work together......or he was a terrible mechanic and it was just "mashed" together.

The genny stand does fit the generator perfectly, so I would think it's the right one.

The main tin does not have a bump in it, so not a dog house style and I'm using the correct cooler right?

I did not have the cyl tins on at the time of trying to make this fit.

I will take a harder look later tomorrow. I've got a buddy getting deployed in a few days and we are heading over there to wish him safe travels.

Thanks again guys for all the help.

Scott

dustymojave · Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 10:15 pm Post subject:

@ZARJDR:
He has a generator stand. A generator can be mounted on an alternator stand just fine. The diameter of the generator and that of the alternator are the same where they fit into the arc of the stand. But the alternator body gets fatter near the pulley end, so alternator stands are cut away for clearance for that part.

Gen stand:

Alt stand:

You need a generator/alternator strap to hold the generator. It is a metal strap with the ends turned 90* out with a bolt through those ends. IT will go around the generator at the flywheel side of the generator stand and clamp around that portion of the stand which sticks forward of the vertical portion.

@neogenesis:
You're using the correct oil cooler for the fan shroud you have. When you get deeper into this, it would be good to switch to a later style "Doghouse" oil cooler and shroud. and/or an external oil cooler and filter with a "full-flow" oil system. Don't worry about that now.

You will need an oil filler tube and cap. I don't see one in what you show. It will probably be easiest to get an aluminum tube one from a VW shop or the classifieds on here.

I hope you got the oil deflector tin in place under the generator stand correctly. If it's wrong, the cam gear will sling oil straight at the underside of the filler cap and will leak a lot of oil from the breather vent hose and cap. The deflector plate can go in 8 different ways. The correct way is with the louvers angling down and open toward the right side. You may be able to see down the oil filler opening in the stand.

You will need to remove the lower end of the T3 oil filler neck from the lower part of the block and install a block-off plate. Then an oil dipstick is an issue as this block has no dipstick tube.. So making your own adaptation from a block-off plate may be necessary. I've seen them before, but they are not common.

I also hope you put new intake manifold gaskets under the manifold end castings. That spot has a substantial potential for vacuum leaks.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

Neogenesis · Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2012 6:05 am Post subject:

dustymojave,

Thanks for the excellent reply.

I have been cleaning up and using new seals on anything I've removed, so I should be ok there. I also do plan to change to a external cooler, just not sure when yet. The oil deflector tin in interesting. It appears mine will only fit in one way. The louvers are facing down, however mine opens to the front "pulley" side of the engine. That's the way it was upon disassemble, and I pulled the genny stand to double check, and that's the only way it will fit so I put it back together that way. As for the oil dipstick, that doesn't sound like a whole lot of fun to sort out, but that will come soon.

Now for the good news.......I got the main tin to fit. What was hanging me up was a clearance issue between the tall stud coming out of the block for the oil cooler. I believe these studs were different between the upright and dog house coolers, but I wasn't about to try and pull it at this point. So....I used some spacers to get things tightened down. #1 my spacers were a little to large around, and they were hitting a internal baffle in the tin. I changed out the spacers to some smaller ones, and put a small notch in the baffle, and it's now all bolted up.

Then I realized that I didn't put on the head tins, so it have to take things back apart again to get them on.

And one quick question, is there some bracket that is supposed to help steady the carb when it's mounted? There is a lot of "spring" in the intake after I bolt the carb up. It looks like it's coming from the seals the go between the intake manifold and the intake tubes. Thoughts as I haven't been able to find a pic or a piece in my box o parts to verify this?

Thanks,

Scott

Neogenesis · Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 5:01 pm Post subject:

Well....

Just when I think I may be getting close to trying to get this thing running, another issue. I went to install the plugs.....seem the PO pulled the spark plug thread out of one of the holes. So....off comes the cyl head to send it to the machine shop to get a helicoil. Once I got the cyl head off, I can see without trying to hard that the rings are worn on one of the pistons, so my thought it just swap cyls and pistons while I'm at it.

Question is, what are the chances that the bearings in the block are still good? I would hate to redo the cyl, pistons, and get the heads fixed up just to have to tear it all back again.

Thoughts?

Also started looking at piston and cyl sets on aircooled.net, so many to choose from. What would you recommend?

Thanks,

Scott

pafree · Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 5:36 pm Post subject:

Neogenesis · Posted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 7:00 am Post subject:

Well.....it's been a while since I've posted, things have slowed down with coaching football and work getting busier with the students returning to campus. Good news is that I got the damaged head repaired, helicoil installed and broken exhaust stud extracted, and have started the replacement process of the jugs and pistons. There was no visible damage internally from water or anything like that. The oil drained clean, so there doesn't appear to be any H2O internal. I went with a standard size rebuild, wanted to keep it simple and just get it back on the road. Things are progressing, just slower than normal. Hopefully next time I post it will be running.

Neogenesis · Posted: Sat Jun 22, 2013 9:31 am Post subject:

Hey everyone.....I'm back after a hiatus from this project. Life got in the way....but I'm determined to get this done.

So....I've run into a little problem again, and your advice would be appreciated.

When turning over the engine without any plugs in it, it sounds smooth, no knocks, as I would expect. However after I install the spark plugs, I get a hell of a racket coming from the engine, and you can hear a ringing after the engine stops cranking. I've removed, inspected, and reinstalled the new pistons and jugs....and I don't see any damage on them. I'm stumped as to what it could be. I'm looking for thoughts on the issue before I send it off to a engine shop and have them work on it......or just trade it in on a refurb longblock.

So.....the vids.......I took the vid with plugs before the one without....which I stripped all the accessories for.

Engine with no plugs:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiBtD9fMiio

Engine with plugs:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lnJFcB6E9pM

Thanks everyone!!!

Scott

BoomerDC · Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 10:22 am Post subject:

if I had to fathom a guess, I would guess lifters are not pumping up being there is no valve cover on there and I dont see a drop of oil coming from anywhere.
and how can you hear anything over that open head exhaust?

just an observation?

Neogenesis · Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 11:37 am Post subject:

I figured a quick spin wouldn't hurt anything before I refilled it with oil and buttoned everything else back up. That's when I discovered the knock that can be heard in the vid. I was just a little confused as to why it wouldn't be there when the spark plugs are not installed, versus when they are. That's why I posted the vid and asked for help. If you feel this is normal, I'll continue buttoned things up, and give it another try.

-Scott

BoomerDC · Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 11:52 am Post subject:

it only takes about 3 seconds of running with zero oil to destroy an engine.

just rolling over is fine, but to start up and run with no oil.... bad!

RailGuy · Posted: Mon Jun 24, 2013 3:48 am Post subject:

yeah what i think you are hearing is the open heads firing/or blowing compressed air out. if you Really want to be sure, throw the exhaust on and try again. With valve covers and oil.

Neogenesis · Posted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 1:13 pm Post subject:

Now that my summer projects at work are starting to slow down I've been back at this project, and the issues that I've posted about before only seem to get worse. I ended up taking the engine to a machine shop and according to them, who specialize in air cooled engines, the crank and fly wheel need to be replaced, something about they weren't torqued correctly when the last owner installed them, however he seems uninterested in working on it. So....I've been trying to source parts myself, however I'm unsure on what crank my block needs.

Can anyone help me identify what I might need for this?

Engine has a U0 code, which according to the web is a Type 3 68-73 1600 fuel injected case, or a Type 3 1970 dual-relief case.

My manual transmission has a 113 301 103L code.

I'm starting to get frustrated with this engine, I'm not sure it's even worth fixing at this point.

Thanks for all your advice in advance.

Neogenesis · Posted: Thu May 22, 2014 8:46 am Post subject:

Wow....it's been a while since I've updated this thread...time to get back on it. While I've not made much headway on the build.....mostly life and work getting in the way, I have managed to figure out what was making all the noise. The PO did something wrong, and broke the locating pins on the crank, and the flywheel was loose. So...the engine needs a new crank and flywheel. I found a pretty decent deal on a new fully balanced crank and lightened flywheel, finally found a local builder which I trust......so it's heading to the shop to get built soon.

dustymojave · Posted: Thu May 22, 2014 10:36 pm Post subject:

Good luck. It's been a long time since I wondered what happened with this project.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

Neogenesis · Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 10:13 am Post subject:

Well.....

The engine is set to go in the shop a week from today. WooHoo!!! It's about time!!!

Anyway, so I tore into the rear brakes, as there were some missing and broken studs. So, it looks like I need to replace the drums and possibly the 5 lug Chevy adapters as well, as they are missing hardware. Does anyone know if there is a reproduction drum that would directly fit Chevy rims? I'm not finding much but my VW-fu isn't as strong as some of those on here.

The drums that are on the car.
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C24-113-501-615-JGR

Thanks,

Scott


Hello! Log in or Register \| Help \| Donate \| Buy Shirts	See all banner ads \| Advertise on TheSamba.com

Fixing up this rail I just picked up.
Page: Previous 1, 2, 3 Next

	Forum Index -> HBB Off-Road	All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time Page: Previous 1, 2, 3 Next
Page 2 of 3