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Randomly wont run
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zombiebug
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 10:04 am    Post subject: Randomly wont run Reply with quote

let me start with the info we know. 68 standard. 1600 DP in the car with dual kardons. 009 set to 7.5 BTDC idle (before you jump read on)

My friends car was tuned by a shop a few months ago. Lately it started over heating but he drove it anyway. he did stop and let it cool down though. it started running rough but a tune up was scheduled with me.

Couple days later I showed up to give it a tune up, and the car wont start. It ran fine the previous night. We adjusted valves to .006. Reset dwell to 50 degrees with .016 feeler gauge. Still wouldnt start. SO we adjusted timing to 7.5 BTDC. Still wont start. We checked volts at the coil with ignition on, and starting its all good. We checked power to the dizzy, and checked the spark plugs made sure they were sparking. everything good. Check compression all around 120. still wouldnt start. So my friend pop started it down a hill it ran!

But it only starts if you pop start it. Starter can turn it all day long and never get it to catch. It gets close but wont start. But a hill does the trick. Whats your suggestions? Wiring? All fuses are good.
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When starting how much voltage at the coil?

How much voltage at the battery with everything off?

How much voltage at coil with everything off, except ignition switch turned to "Run" position?
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Cusser
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 12:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric's guessing, and so am I, that the starter isn't spinning the engine fast enough to start it.

And are you sure that the starter gear is actually engaging the flywheel when you try to start up, and that the starter gear isn't just spinning without engaging anything? You should be able to tell that just by watching the engine while cranking.
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zombiebug
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok so after a short break from getting to the car im stumped. Put my meter on the coil and nothing. Didnt get a reading from the ignition on or the car turning over. Changed the coil to a spare in the car. same thing. Changed the coil to another spare in the car. Same thing. Timing was static timed to first notch cut into the crank pulley. He onlu has two notches side by side. no dent, no nothing just those two notches. Ive heard those were 7.5 and 10 BTDC so we static timed it to the first one. She still wont run.

ANy other suggestions?
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wayne1230cars
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 9:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

zombiebug wrote:
Ok so after a short break from getting to the car im stumped. Put my meter on the coil and nothing. Didnt get a reading from the ignition on or the car turning over. Changed the coil to a spare in the car. same thing. Changed the coil to another spare in the car. Same thing. Timing was static timed to first notch cut into the crank pulley. He onlu has two notches side by side. no dent, no nothing just those two notches. Ive heard those were 7.5 and 10 BTDC so we static timed it to the first one. She still wont run.

ANy other suggestions?


You mentioned in your first post that you did have power at the coil and dizzy. Something has changed. If you mean that with the key turned on, you now have no power to the +terminal (15) on the coil then that wiring needs to be traced to figure out why. You could run a temporary hot jumper wire to the #15 coil connection and see if it will start then.
As far as the pulley markings go, sometimes pulleys got changed or extra notches were added. A quick test would be to measure the distance between the two notches. If it measures to about 4 mm, then they likely are 7.5 & 10 degreees BTDC. The measurement between a 0 degree mark and 7.5 would be more like 12 mm.
Again this would be on a factory pulley.
Your first priority though is to figure out what is happening at the coil. Be methodical and one change at a time.
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zombiebug
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wayne1230cars wrote:


You mentioned in your first post that you did have power at the coil and dizzy. Something has changed. If you mean that with the key turned on, you now have no power to the +terminal (15) on the coil then that wiring needs to be traced to figure out why. You could run a temporary hot jumper wire to the #15 coil connection and see if it will start then.
As far as the pulley markings go, sometimes pulleys got changed or extra notches were added. A quick test would be to measure the distance between the two notches. If it measures to about 4 mm, then they likely are 7.5 & 10 degreees BTDC. The measurement between a 0 degree mark and 7.5 would be more like 12 mm.
Again this would be on a factory pulley.
Your first priority though is to figure out what is happening at the coil. Be methodical and one change at a time.


Yes something has changed here. not sure what so im looking into it. Originally we did have power now I couldnt get my needle to move at all. Ill have to follow the wiring back through. See if there is a break in the wires somewhere. Id say the battery could be dead but the motor was able to turn over perfectly fine.

Pulley doesnt have any TDC mark. Just those two notches cut into the pulley that look stock. Its got no dent, no line nothing. Ill post a pic next time I pass the car.
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R32VWBeetle
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you might be running the wrong coil, what coils do you have you need to get a 3ohm coil, not the bosch blue ones unless you have an external ballast resistor
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zombiebug
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2012 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The coil he had was a blue one (he ran it for a year no issues) but we found the issue. He needed a new coil (I just grabbed a GM 12 Volt coil from Advanced Auto parts for now German on the way) He needed new points and condesor and rotor. After all that the timing mark was dancing like a fish out of water. He dizzy was bad. Now the car starts and purrs like a kitten.

Does anyone know this timing Question? Ive had mixed reactions. Even read the timing thread. He has a German crank pulley and only two notches in the pulley. They are side by side only about 3 MM apart. No dent of nothing. For starting purposes we set that as 0 and measured out 7 degrees from that first notch.

Somewhere along the line of sitting for so long the clutch doesnt work and the only way to get it to drive is speed shift. Were going to start pulling stuff back apart soon and check whats really wrong.
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zombiebug
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 6:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Even after we changed: Coil, dizzy (my old used 009), cap, rotor, points, wires, spark plugs.

The car will run ok at idle untill warmed up. he has a pair of Solex kadrons. If you rev the engine the car will stutter and back fire randomly. its low on power and not happy. We can disconnect a plug wire from the dizzy and it will take 10 seconds before the car starts to die. However cylinder 2 is not firing at all. We took the plug out and turned the car over, and saw plenty of spark. However we can unplug it from dizzy and motor does not change.

We assumed that the carbs were plugged as its been sitting a while. we put some gas stabilizer in the tank, then later some sea foam. Car still runs like crap.

What else can we do? We both have no idea how to tune these kadrons and the car isnt going anywhere as we dont have a trailer.

any advice?
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 7:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Putting in gas stabilizer now is like trying to lock up the barn after it has burned down.

Rebuild the carbs. Get a carb balancer, and start reading up on how to adjust them.

Would also help to have a air/fuel gauge.

Or just install stock single carb which is more newbie friendly.
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zombiebug
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Putting in gas stabilizer now is like trying to lock up the barn after it has burned down.

Would also help to have a air/fuel gauge.

Or just install stock single carb which is more newbie friendly.


Hahaha I love that analogy.

Ill look into that AFR meter.

What carb would be a good idea for a 1600 Single port?

Would the carb be causing the #2 cylinder to not fire at all?

Thank you for the help.
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

30 PICT-1 is the easiest, original German is best.

Not without knocking #1 out also.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 8:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gotcha, were in the process of finding a decent used German 30 Pic 1 that has a 130 main jet to be used with a 1600 SP.

We checked cylinder 1 and that one makes the engine stumble if we remove that plug wire. Were going to be looking at valves later.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

stock don't run (lies)

205T dizzy + 30Pict2,, amazing how well stock runs,,,,, huh?
the 205t makes for huge low end torque too. i promise you will like it.

here is the play
put it back to stock then break it, then you know who did it , why and how you did it wrong.....
find a base line. (the above is an old joke but is also true)

my 68 runs perfect with 30PICT2 , it's stock and runs perfect.
no need to go to the older pict at all.
ORDER counts: unless you like lost cash and head to palm plants.

    Good motor (compression and lash ) 1st not last...!!
    no intake leaks 2nd , not last.
    205T dizzy the vacuum advance works (test it) 3rd never last)
    the 30pict2 clean, kitted and jets right.


my 30 is here.
every detail to the finest. check it out and pm me if not clear.

http://ac-vw.com/At_Wits_End/Carbs-Suck/carbs-suck1.html


im running 120main
at 500 feet ( what is yours?)
1600cc
SP
TriMill GTX exhaust.

runs like a cat on a hot tin roof.... like new, and yes, owned one NEw.
My first was 70
My best friend had square back 70 , we traded on weekends for fun.
sis has my 70 now and my B in law a 66 1300 stocker, that i help .

try stock and be happy, most are over 17yo
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