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New rebuild and no oil pressure.
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velo96
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 6:12 pm    Post subject: New rebuild and no oil pressure. Reply with quote

I am trying to get some oil pressure using the starter and can get a drop out of the sender hole or loose filter. Crankcase has an extra quart of oil, i have pured/forced about a half a quart in the sender hole. I've done 4 or 5 30 second starter bursts and nothing. I have searched and read for an hour or so and some say you can get pressure with the starter but others say you can't. I feel like you should be able to get some pressure. I have a modified type 1 pump. Engine is a 79 2.0L FI. This is my first rebuild. Any Thoughts?
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VWDruid
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

did you pack the pump with grease?
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just don't start it until after you get pressure using the starter.

Did you pack the pump when you put it together?
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velo96
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did not pack the pump. Does that help prime the pump?
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VWDruid
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

very much.
I have used petroleum jelly.
oil in the filter will help also.
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velo96
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 6:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you think I can just rotate the engine longer or do I need to pack the pump? Filter is full. The engine is installed already and I would hate to have to get a bunch of new exhaust gaskets.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pour a half quart of oil down the sender hole (this should take a while) and then start her up and and run her up to ~2000 rpm. If still no oil pressure after 5-8 seconds, shut her down.

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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 10:48 pm    Post subject: Re: New rebuild and no oil pressure. Reply with quote

velo96 wrote:
This is my first rebuild. Any Thoughts?


What did you use as a rebuild guide? Tom Wilson's engine rebuilding book hopefully. But he would have instructed you to pack the pump.

So really it's probably a good thing you havn't gotten pressure yet and started it up yet. What startup procedure are you going to follow? It's a serious make it or break it issue. the very first breath of life most likely determines it's future.
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The best thing that anyone can do for their Bay is get the Volkswagen of America Official Service Manual published by Robert Bentley. Without it the bus is pretty much doomed.
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when that red light goes on, you have to make a choice.
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I am not answering that.
Respectfully,
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Ochie
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 7:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I usually crank it over with the spark plugs removed. The starter spins faster easier and I can let it spin for a longer time to get the OP up. After that I reinstall plugs and start it up.
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velo96
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 7:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I only have the bentley manual. It doesn't mention packing the pump. I followed all tolerance and torque specs. My plan is to first see some oil pressure then start it up and run it at 2000 rpm for 20mins to breakin the new cam and lifters. Wildthings I'm scared to start it even with the pre lube without seeing pressurized oil first. I forced about a half a quart into the sender hole two days ago, is that sufficient? I am rotating with plugs out.
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Chris_914
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 8:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If need be put some more oil in the sump until the level is half way above the bottom of the pump. DO NOT start it this way, only spin the engine with the starter for prelube. The extra oil will replace the air in the pump and allow it to prime. After you get pressure, drain the oil to the correct level or change it all together. Removing the sender will allow the air to purge faster from the passages and cooler. Replace it when you see oil.
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You said that you're using a modified Type 1 pump. I've never heard of that before but hey, there's a lot of things I've never heard of before. One question though... are you sure that the pump drive tang is engaging into the end of the cam shaft? Maybe your pump is not campatible with your engine? As far as I know there are flat cam gears and dished cam gears. You must have the correct pump for each type.
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velo96
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 10:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The modified type 1 pump is machined to fit the type 4 engine and the cam gear is machined to fit the modified type1 pump. The pump drive shaft is definitely engaged in the cam gear. I turned over the engine by hand with the pump cover off when i installed it. I did read a post where some one said they had a new shaft break though. Its a schadeck 30mm.
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How hard is it to remove the cover now?
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you relying on the idiot light to tell you if you have pressure ?
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

modified t-1 pump... hey.. did you check to see if the pump has the inlet hole plugged??or the outlet.. I can't remember which one gets plugged for a t-1 full flow system..
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telford dorr
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Outlet. And you'd know it if it was plugged - something would break.
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velo96
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would have to remove the exhaust,fan,fan shroud,aft tin, and alt. I am unaware of needing to plug one of the ports on the modified pump. I thought it was plug and play once it was modified. Although nothing else on this build has been so who knows. I'm going to try adding more oil and cranking for a longer period of time. Hope the assembly lube and cam lube keep up. I'm not relying on the idiot light for pressure. just trying to get oil to squirt out of the sender hole.
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 1:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does the engine crank pretty fast with the plugs out? I had a long block a few months ago that was bound up and I think the cam was bent. It would barely spin with the starter.
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

too busy to read this all the way thru carefully but here is what I would like you to do. Pull the coil wire and plugs if you already haven't. Take the oil sender out. Put a towell up there to catch oil. Have someone watch it while you crank it or use a remote starter. In about 3 or 4 seconds you will have oil pressure. Then put the sender back in and you will be good to go.
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