| Author |
Message |
airschooled
Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012
Posts: 12721
Location: on a bike ride somewhere
|
 Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 2:24 pm Post subject: |
 |
|
So the starter cranked right over, during pressure building and final cranking. Bless that three-year-old Costco battery that ran my lights, sat for two months, and performend flawlessly. While atatching the remote starter, I noticed my ground strap was disconnected... Oops... I didn't notice any difference in cranking speed with it. Sorry, clutch cable.
I apparently suck at static timing, because I timed it 45* behind, and couldn't figure out why it wasn't starting. (Well, after realizing I left the coil wire in the box in the dumpster.........)
During cam break in!
Link
_________________
Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Jalabert
Samba Member
Joined: December 06, 2005
Posts: 631
Location: On the coast in NZ, somewhere...
|
| Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 2:41 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Good work!
_________________
http://thickrubber.blogspot.com/ Writing, Surfing, and Exploring NZ's deep south by VW...
'73 westy, 1700 type 4 with 34icts |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
richparker
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2011
Posts: 6980
Location: Durango, CO
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
wcfvw69 
Samba Purist
Joined: June 10, 2004
Posts: 13389
Location: Arizona
|
| Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 3:34 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Nice!
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc
Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.
**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours** |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Wasted youth
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2012
Posts: 5134
Location: California's Hot and Smoggy Central Valley
|
| Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 5:32 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Well, it sounds great! I bet you're walking around pretty high right now. 
Also got lost on some of your other YouTube stuff...  |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
TomWesty
Samba Member
Joined: November 23, 2007
Posts: 3482
Location: Wyoming,USA
|
| Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 11:52 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Sounds good to me!
_________________
If you haven't bled on them, you haven't worked on them.
Visit: www.tomcoryell.com and check out my music! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Tcash
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
|
| Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 8:36 am Post subject: |
|
|
That thing sounds great, even on audio.
A couple of things to check that can ruin your day.
Drain plug.
Fuel hoses tight and not rubbing.
Good going
Tcash |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Brian
Samba Moderator
Joined: May 28, 2012
Posts: 8340
Location: Oceanside
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
scrivyscriv
Samba Electrician
Joined: October 04, 2011
Posts: 2922
Location: Memphis
|
| Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 8:02 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Way to go man.
Also, you suck, I went out and bought a record player and have been SEARCHING every thrift store in town hoping to find that album, thanks to your obnoxious photo of that dumb record! Lol. I must have one.
_________________
Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
eche_bus
Samba Member
Joined: October 07, 2007
Posts: 1318
|
| Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 8:30 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Very big congrats on the successful rebuild, install, and break-in. Gorgeous engine, too! Much to be proud of to be certain! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Terriers 2121
Samba Member
Joined: September 09, 2014
Posts: 53
Location: Alberta
|
| Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 8:33 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| asiab3 wrote: |
| Stuartzickefoose wrote: |
Weight reduction.
|
I cleaned at least 10 pounds of mud out of the engine compartment and off the body above the transaxle. 
| Quote: |
Engage vtec sooner.
|
Hopefully my rev-limiting rotor will kick in before that.
| Quote: |
Looking great robbie, keep up the awesome work  |
Thanks my man!
I BBQ'd my tailpipe, damper pipe, damper bracket, and heat exchangers today too! I just forgot the photo, so here is my Filet Leistritz from two years ago. Those parts literally look the same after two years and 25,000 miles of poundage. The new ones are a more correct stock blue-grey, though it was too dark to take any pictures. Muffler and intake manifold come this weekend when I have to go visit my folks to use their giant BBQ!
|
Hey man, love your thread, learning a fair bit from it. I'm new to the scene and was wondering if you could tell me your process on the heat exchangers with the barbecue? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
airschooled
Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012
Posts: 12721
Location: on a bike ride somewhere
|
| Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 1:07 am Post subject: |
|
|
| scrivyscriv wrote: |
Way to go man.
Also, you suck, I went out and bought a record player and have been SEARCHING every thrift store in town hoping to find that album, thanks to your obnoxious photo of that dumb record! Lol. I must have one. |
I'm thinking about ripping it and sharing it with folks who donate to a charity or something. I'm happy to do it, but I want my lawbreaking to be for a good cause. 
Eche, thank you for the comments! I've seen your thread, and I know that's high praise.
Terriers2121, I use VHT "FlameProof" ceramic/silica coating in a can. As with ANY paint/spray product, reading the instructions will give you the best results. Start with a GOOD deep/professional sandblast to bare metal. No rust, no paint, no gunk allowed. Then use the VHT FP primer within half an hour. Do it quicker if you live in a humid climate. I drop my parts off at the sandblaster, and when the weather is supposed to be warm and dry I tell them to have it done at noon. I show up at 11:45 and do the first coat in the alley behind the shop. It's something like ten-thirty minutes between coats, so I take it home for the second and third coat. After the primer, I go straight to the topcoat with no change in recoat times. As on the can, I do two light coats and one medium coat. I make my medium coat extra thick around flanges and joints. I Do Not Want Rust There. Who cares if I have a run on the front of my heat exchanger? I won't even see it, and it will prevent the flange from weakening. Now we let the parts dry for seven days. (This is optional, but I've always done it anyway.) Then we follow the baking instructions on the can, and bake off the car! (I couldn't bake on the car anyway, since on-car baking involves copious idling, but breaking in an engine requires fast revs for too much time.) So bake on the BBQ for 30 minutes and rest for 30 minutes. Once at about 300, 400, and 600 degrees. (I may be off on my temps, check the can!) I used my Dakota Digital head temp gauge to monitor my BBQ temp. The propane grill struggled to hit 600, but my gas grill accidentally baked them around 800 for the last round. Don't do this. It essentially made tan spots out of anywhere my skin oil touched it from my fingertips. You can see them in the "engine installed" picture earlier in this thread. I would also be cautious about baking the intake manifold for the third go-around. I had some nasty separating between the two sections, so I JB-Welded the seem as a hopeful "hi temp bondo" that has help up well so far. I VHT FP covered the JBW, but I didn't bake it again. Shhh. 
With the VHT paints, I had around 8k-10k miles on an Ernst muffler last year. Except for where oil dripped on it from my leaky rattle-box engine, it looked brand new and the was no rust around the flanges. T4 folks have more flanges than we do, and they will rust out first because it's hard to get sandpaper in the to get the rust out. That's why we sandblast for best results.
A better option is a Jet-Hot treatment, which may be able to get a better color to stock. Westfabulous has a thread where he tried the VHT primer and topcoat at the same time spraying, and he got a much closer color. He was told by VHT support that the primer works fine as a topcoat, but I do not trust phone support personnel who make blatant claims like that without trying it myself. Perhaps on someone else car I'll do it.
TL;DR? VHT FlameProof paints, follow the directions.
Robbie
_________________
Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
airschooled
Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012
Posts: 12721
Location: on a bike ride somewhere
|
| Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 1:10 am Post subject: |
|
|
Tomorrow morning is the first (and probably only show) I'll do with this engine. I'm bummed that my real dark grey heater hose didn't arrive in time, but I got my 1970 shift enhancer hooked up and functioning today. I've started making my own gaskets for stuff like this. It's more fun, and maybe a little faster/cheaper than running to the local buggy shop every time I need to drop a dollar. I know that's not a big deal for all of the readership here, but most of my people my age call AAA to put their spare tire on.
Terriers 2121, see the fingerprints on the intake? Baking too hot…
Not only does the throttle positioner reduce emissions, but it slows the return of RPMS during the long 2-3 upshift. AND not only does it do both of those, but the tightness of a new engine slows down to idle MUCH quicker than a 100% broken-in engine, so the shift enhancement really is nice for drivability.
I had my engine hatch open at one other show I went to, right after the Lost Coast trip. It went over well with those who drive their buses, but it was scoffed at by the trailer queens:
Robbie
_________________
Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
richparker
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2011
Posts: 6980
Location: Durango, CO
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
RocketSurgeon
Samba Member
Joined: May 26, 2005
Posts: 442
Location: Roseville, CA
|
| Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 8:30 am Post subject: |
|
|
Beautiful work Robbie!
_________________
69 Westy |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Terriers 2121
Samba Member
Joined: September 09, 2014
Posts: 53
Location: Alberta
|
| Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 8:27 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| asiab3 wrote: |
| scrivyscriv wrote: |
Way to go man.
Also, you suck, I went out and bought a record player and have been SEARCHING every thrift store in town hoping to find that album, thanks to your obnoxious photo of that dumb record! Lol. I must have one. |
I'm thinking about ripping it and sharing it with folks who donate to a charity or something. I'm happy to do it, but I want my lawbreaking to be for a good cause.
Eche, thank you for the comments! I've seen your thread, and I know that's high praise.
Terriers2121, I use VHT "FlameProof" ceramic/silica coating in a can. As with ANY paint/spray product, reading the instructions will give you the best results. Start with a GOOD deep/professional sandblast to bare metal. No rust, no paint, no gunk allowed. Then use the VHT FP primer within half an hour. Do it quicker if you live in a humid climate. I drop my parts off at the sandblaster, and when the weather is supposed to be warm and dry I tell them to have it done at noon. I show up at 11:45 and do the first coat in the alley behind the shop. It's something like ten-thirty minutes between coats, so I take it home for the second and third coat. After the primer, I go straight to the topcoat with no change in recoat times. As on the can, I do two light coats and one medium coat. I make my medium coat extra thick around flanges and joints. I Do Not Want Rust There. Who cares if I have a run on the front of my heat exchanger? I won't even see it, and it will prevent the flange from weakening. Now we let the parts dry for seven days. (This is optional, but I've always done it anyway.) Then we follow the baking instructions on the can, and bake off the car! (I couldn't bake on the car anyway, since on-car baking involves copious idling, but breaking in an engine requires fast revs for too much time.) So bake on the BBQ for 30 minutes and rest for 30 minutes. Once at about 300, 400, and 600 degrees. (I may be off on my temps, check the can!) I used my Dakota Digital head temp gauge to monitor my BBQ temp. The propane grill struggled to hit 600, but my gas grill accidentally baked them around 800 for the last round. Don't do this. It essentially made tan spots out of anywhere my skin oil touched it from my fingertips. You can see them in the "engine installed" picture earlier in this thread. I would also be cautious about baking the intake manifold for the third go-around. I had some nasty separating between the two sections, so I JB-Welded the seem as a hopeful "hi temp bondo" that has help up well so far. I VHT FP covered the JBW, but I didn't bake it again. Shhh.
With the VHT paints, I had around 8k-10k miles on an Ernst muffler last year. Except for where oil dripped on it from my leaky rattle-box engine, it looked brand new and the was no rust around the flanges. T4 folks have more flanges than we do, and they will rust out first because it's hard to get sandpaper in the to get the rust out. That's why we sandblast for best results.
A better option is a Jet-Hot treatment, which may be able to get a better color to stock. Westfabulous has a thread where he tried the VHT primer and topcoat at the same time spraying, and he got a much closer color. He was told by VHT support that the primer works fine as a topcoat, but I do not trust phone support personnel who make blatant claims like that without trying it myself. Perhaps on someone else car I'll do it.
TL;DR? VHT FlameProof paints, follow the directions.
That's awesome thanks for the follow up on that.
Robbie |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Brian
Samba Moderator
Joined: May 28, 2012
Posts: 8340
Location: Oceanside
|
| Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 8:35 pm Post subject: |
|
|
so I get shit for it so, why no clamps on the fuel pump? I have some extra FI clamps if you need.
_________________
Wash your hands
'69 Bug
'68 Baja Truck
'71 Bug
'68 Camper
Only losers litter |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Wasted youth
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2012
Posts: 5134
Location: California's Hot and Smoggy Central Valley
|
| Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 8:51 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Confused... what were the Trailer Queens crying on you about? General roughness appearance? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
airschooled
Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012
Posts: 12721
Location: on a bike ride somewhere
|
| Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 8:57 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Brian wrote: |
| so I get shit for it so, why no clamps on the fuel pump? I have some extra FI clamps if you need. |
I get shit for balancing my pistons too carefully. I get shit for running emissions devices. I get shit for wearing blue shirts on Thursday. Such is life, I guess. But I digress…
The German braided line does not require clamps. In fact, I have found the ends to fray more quickly with an experimental clamp I had two summers ago. Ever used a Chinese finger trap? That's what the braiding is. So we don't need the clamps for pressure. I run my fuel pressure on the lower end of spec so I get less boil-over on a hot start. It's a HUGE difference from 5psi to 3psi. (30pict carbs want 3.5psi MAX. 34pict carbs want 3-5psi.) New engine is at 2.8psi right now, and hot starts are a flick just like cold starts. This saves wear on the rings over time, just like the old anti-percolate fuel pumps did. I think the pressure is a little low and could cause a lean condition, so I'll take out a gasket next week when I do some engine work.
If you use the rubber line that is getting pretty common, YES! you need clamps, but then I'm picky. I do not like:
- one time use clamps
- clamps with sharp edges
-clamps that require a dedicated tool to install
- clamps that give less than 100% circumference grip
- flathead screw clamps
At this point in the day I've gone to four FLAPS and still haven't found a clamp I like, I give up and make people buy braided line when I work on their cars, unless the whole system is 1/4" like some of the more thorough engines are. (Aeromech does a nice job with a Gates Barricade setup on the engines he does. All matching fittings with good line support to eliminate chafing and vibration.)
That being said, the stock system has no problems, IF you have a good grommet through the firewall metal line, and you buy one of the two known good lines on the market. (I also like to use a longer metal line through the firewall to get the rubber line and junction away from the #3 exhaust manifold on a T1 engine.) There is a black braided 5mm line with a white VW/Audi logo that I use. There is also a dark grey braided line with red or orange lettering that I have had good success with as well. I cut open a piece of my line every year and post pictures in the fuel line thread. I can't find my pictures from this year, but I'll upload them when I do. The ends must not fray, and cross sections must not show any micro-cracks when squeezed and manipulated. So far both types have passed with flying colors and no clamps.
Now, the carb fitting is a different story. Many people/gorillas who don't know how to properly remove braided fuel line yank at the line until it comes off. WONG! Take a screwdriver or narrow pliers, and push it off. (Chinese finger trap, remember?) This neglect causes the fittings to work loose over time with engine vibration. It is not a design flaw, it is a maintenance flaw, but it is still best fixed with a barbed and threaded fitting like the one Volkzbitz puts on his carbs. I'm trying to acquire the tooling to do it myself for my cars and family/friends' cars.
TL;DR? No clamps on good braided line for me.
Robbie
_________________
Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
TwistedGray
Samba Member
Joined: September 10, 2014
Posts: 41
Location: Monterey Bay, California
|
| Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 11:30 am Post subject: |
|
|
| This thread not only didn't put me asleep last night like I anticipated but it kept me up all night thinking of where to go...Thanks a lot! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
