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brake light switch failure, no brakes!
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cefalu
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 8:32 am    Post subject: brake light switch failure, no brakes! Reply with quote

My '74 westy had been sitting for 22 years with a frozen engine. I doubt that that sitting for 22 years can be beneficial for brake system rubber and hydraulics, so I just replaced every single part in my brake system with new parts. I am regretting that.

One of the new brake pressure switches I bought from Bus Depot (a $6 part) has failed. Failed in a scary way. Brake fluid is coming out of the electrical connection. I found that out when I was driving down the 101 grade going north into Ventura. Long steep grade, hit the brakes, and nothing, pump, pump, pump, nada. Down shift into 3rd slow down, pull on the ebrake, crawl under the bus and sure enough, brake fluid pouring out of the switch. The seal between the spade connector and the plastic dome of the switch had opened up and was allowing fluid to pour out.

Now to locate another switch so I can make my way home. Pissing me off how a $6 chinese part can cause so much aggravation.

Moral, $6 for a switch is obviously too cheap to make a quality part. locate a quality part and spend a little extra
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merlinj79
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those new switches suck. They fail (electrically) every few years and I have noticed fluid seepage too.

I have two on the shelf that I need to install this weekend. If catastrophic failure is a potential option, then maybe I'll but in NPT plugs and just wire a switch to the pedal to run the lights. I actually have a working brake warning module I was going to install, which requires the stock sensors, but the sensors themselves maybe more of a safety hazard.


I would be interested in knowing if anyone knows of an alternative product...
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cefalu
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

interesting, i didn't think they would use NPT threads. Looks like an 1/8" thread to me.
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merlinj79
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cefalu wrote:
interesting, i didn't think they would use NPT threads. Looks like an 1/8" thread to me.


Well, I split a master cyclinder years ago by torque-ing a sensor so I assumed NPT.
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kreemoweet
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 9:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

1. Please do not keep the brand/make of that switch a secret. We all need to know about this.

2. Be sure to inform Bus Depot about the deadly item they sold you.

3. You'd best try and find out why the heck your other brake circuit failed also. Just having one circuit knocked out by a blown-out
brake lite switch should have left you with effective, althought diminished, braking from the other circuit.

4. Are you quite sure you did not mis-wire that switch in a way that caused a short/huge current draw, thus melting the plastic bit
and causing the leak?
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Mobiltune
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

NEW, by popular demand! Genuine ATE or FTE. Late master cylinder takes 2


http://www.airheadparts.com/vintage-vw-parts/vanag...13945515-g

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This is not an endorsement for airhead parts, it is an illustration of a quality part. for an insight to my opinion on china parts see the gallery.
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merlinj79
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just put a straight-edge on one. Looks NPT.
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merlinj79
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The new ones I have are Meyle
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

merlinj79 wrote:
I just put a straight-edge on one. Looks NPT.


10MMX1.0
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kreemoweet
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
merlinj79 wrote:
I just put a straight-edge on one. Looks NPT.


10MMX1.0


Aircooled VW's were made in Europe where, as in just about anywhere in the
world except the backward USA, the metric system of measurement is used.
There are no NPT threads anywhere on any VW. The brake light switch, just
like the oil pressure switch, has a tapered M10x1.0 thread. The corresponding
female threads in the engine case and master cylinder are not tapered.
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cefalu
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, I found a "duralast" brand switch at autozone in Ventura. $12.99. It's installed and the brakes are bled. Working great again. Duralast is "hecho in mexico". Better than China I suppose.

The switch that failed was a Meyle, it was 1 month old. Bus Depot supplied it.

The switch that failed was the rear one, which monitors the front brake circuit. 80% of braking is done by the front brakes. I agree the rear brake circuit should have provided some braking, but it didn't help at all. When the brakes failed, I did get a tiny bit of resistance when I pushed all the way to the floor, but not enough to stop. When I bled the system I didn't get any air out of the rear brakes so they seem to have not failed.

No, I have not had any wiring issues, where the wires could have melted the switch. I am sure I would have blown a fuse anyway.

maybe the pressure modulator is bad and not supplying enough pressure to the rear circuit. Dunno.
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merlinj79
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 12:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, that makes sense. I KNEW they were tapered though.

kreemoweet wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
merlinj79 wrote:
I just put a straight-edge on one. Looks NPT.


10MMX1.0


Aircooled VW's were made in Europe where, as in just about anywhere in the
world except the backward USA, the metric system of measurement is used.
There are no NPT threads anywhere on any VW. The brake light switch, just
like the oil pressure switch, has a tapered M10x1.0 thread. The corresponding
female threads in the engine case and master cylinder are not tapered.

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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a very fortunate thing the switch failed. Otherwise you might not have realized that your brakes are screwed up. With front system failure the rear braking should have been very substantial. You've got it assembled wrong, or not properly bled, or shoes not adjusted. Can't blame that one on the regulating valve. Without any front end dip the rears would have been receiving full pressure.
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kreemoweet
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 6:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Desertbusman wrote:
... Without any front end dip...


Well, he sed he was headed down a hill, so there's some front end dip for ya. Also, it's my impression that VW got a lot of complaints from
owners of disk-brake-equipped busses about the lack of rear brake action, and put out a service bulletin outlining mods to make to
the rear brakes that might make them work harder.
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dwill49965
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 6:37 pm    Post subject: Brake Light Switch Tech Tip Reply with quote

Ever seen this site?
Brake Light Switch Tech
http://www.huelsmann.us/bugman/brake_light_switch_tech.htm

Some interesting information here on brake light switch problems.
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Lastly, you just referred to US citizens as 'Americans'. Exactly what kind of Canadian are you? From what continent?
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cefalu
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 10:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I made it 400 miles home safely, but now I don't have any confidence with the master cylinder, since it was suggested here that the rear brakes should have provided "substantial" stopping power.

The master cylinder was a new TRW Brazilian unit. I have let Bus Depot know and we'll see how they respond.

I replaced only a month ago the rear wheel cylinders, hardware, hoses and shoes. They are correctly adjusted as well. I also replaced the front calipers, rotors, pads, hardware, and hoses. The only part of the brake system I re-used was the booster and rear drums.
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cefalu
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 8:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

To close this thread out, and maybe help the next guy who wants to renew his braking system, I am posting my final experience. They credited me $10, the value of the switches I bought from them towards new ones. Bus Depot was not particularly helpful. The sales guy even went to far as to say he thought I didn't screw the switch into the MC far enough. It's pathetic how vendors always assume that since their parts are new that if they fail prematurely it could never be their fault. Time to man up and accept responsibility.

I opted to buy a new Ate MC since a poster here suggested my BRAND NEW brazillian MC made by TRW that I bought from Bus Depot was not functioning correctly. I was surprised to see that the Ate Master cylinders come with brand new switches already installed, and new rubber grommets for the reservoir.

The MC was made in the Czech republic. The switches don't have any markings besides waht is shown in the pic's.

Here's some pics:


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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1974 Volkswagen P27 Westfalia Camper
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2005 Toyota 4Runner V8 Sport
2008 Mercedes E350 Wagon
2018 Lexus GX460
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kreemoweet
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the update. I was interested to see the authentication info on the ATE package. This is good: these days, you
never really know what you're getting in the way of parts, what with the huge amount of counterfeiting going on, and the
refusal of our authorities to take any effective steps to stop it. I take it you did not try to get a refund for your failed master
cylinder from Bus Depot? Not that you would succeed, though. It's unfortunately all too rare for any VW parts supplier to take
any responsibility for the junk and defective parts they are shipping, while at the same time they blather BS about only selling
the finest parts available.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 11:27 am    Post subject: Meyle Brake Switch Failure Reply with quote

Another Meyle brake switch failure. Lost all brakes on my '73 vw bug when the end of this switch blew out. Luckily, I was in my driveway. I just installed a new master cylinder, wheel cylinders and brake linings. I used this switch I purchased from a local import parts store about 3 months ago. There is a spring now protruding out the center of the plastic connection where all the brake fluid ran out.
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I looked on the Bus Depot for an ATE cylinder to see if they also sell them but it didn't come up. I'll contact Ron tonight because I got my ATE through them. I also got some switches through them - they were some other brand made in the EU but that was 3 years ago. Ron really needs to know because they will not want to sell something like that which could fail.
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