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Shoddy cams or just bad batches?
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jfats808
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:07 pm    Post subject: Shoddy cams or just bad batches? Reply with quote

Whats going on with cams today? C45 cam thats 8 degrees advanced at the cam and today a 2241 thats 8 degrees retarded... Engle out of the three ive used to date has been the only one close at 1 degree retarded out of the 8 or so Engles ive built with. The 1904 I short blocked a few weeks ago with an Engle 100 was on spot where it was supposed to be. And that one I used a normal aluminum cam gear. WTF. Maybe Im late or something but I just heard yesterday about Empi line of cams in the Engle 100/110/ and 120 versions that are identical lift/duration/opening/ and closing valve timing. And they Im being told are dialing out correct. WTF!
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You might as well put 10 year build in your bullshit sig, as it will NEVER run. Also your a dick

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miniman82
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sure it's not the gears to blame?
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jfats808
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I suppose if the adjustable gear zero washer is off then yea its probably off. But Ive been using lots of CB straight cuts and like I said only the Engles have degreed out correctly- or shall I say close enough for the degree washers to compensate.
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2276 IDA's 86C 11-1 DD !
2017 48 Trijet DRLA's W125

Rockstar Suzuki wrote:

You might as well put 10 year build in your bullshit sig, as it will NEVER run. Also your a dick

You can always learn something new, even from a fool.
Check your oil levels routinely!
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Boolean
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 4:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You found the fault. The only important thing is to measure EVERYTHING before assembly. Don't ever trust stuff that comes home without checking. And that goes for stock parts as well. If it can be fixed, just do it.
I have seen after market heads that were milled on the gasket side half way. That is with a step between the middle cylinders. Crate engines assembled with no lubrication whatsoever - and the sump full of metal shavings.
Balanced cranks out of balance more than 100 grams/inch, unhardened rockers, undrilled oil passages - you name it.
Just buying parts and assembling without looking at them MAY work, but why take that risk?
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esde
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 7:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So what is the procedure to make sure that a new cam is to "spec" when assembling a case? Besides an adjustable cam gear, how do you fix it if it's off?
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jfats808
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its always a question of how much money and time do you have to buy another cam, hope its within spec, and build it. The adjustable washers are included in straight cut sets to "reset" adjust your timing back to zero on your cam. With a cam thats 8 degrees off the best hope is use the +4 or flip the washer to get you back closer. -4 retard is getting a bit high imo but it will still run fine. Ive heard of people drilling out their washers more to attain cam dial in. I wont do it. You really cant fix a cam thats off that much with adjustable straight cuts when they only come with a max +/- 4 washer.

Lots of first time builders ( and even some old timers) dont even know about the adjustable washers and have been for many years just installing the cam straight up with the Zero washers, finding TDC and just cutting their PRs to fit. I know of someone personally too. Whats funny is his car has been running for over 12 years of non daily use and sounds and runs fine.
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2276 IDA's 86C 11-1 DD !
2017 48 Trijet DRLA's W125

Rockstar Suzuki wrote:

You might as well put 10 year build in your bullshit sig, as it will NEVER run. Also your a dick

You can always learn something new, even from a fool.
Check your oil levels routinely!
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 10:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

try another gear set ,it could be a little of this a little of that and dont forget the crank keway can also be off, Ive had one 5 degrees off and the pully was another 3 in the same direction!!!!some times it's a stack up some times it it's 1 part, some times all parts are out but total is zero.makes you wonder about all this new fangled computer ploting &cnc stuff.al it takes is an old wore out machine,hungover operator,power surge,peice of debries or what ever to throw it out. thus the reason to check everything 3 times then do it again after you think you have it all corrected.never assume you have it right.if it's 4 degrees out and you put in a 4 degree bush/key & assemble you dont know what you have.
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