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DJ's Oct '58 Coupe - Motor '57
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djway3474
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 2:14 pm    Post subject: DJ's Oct '58 Coupe - Motor '57 Reply with quote

Well after I asked a question about a month ago if I should attempt heater channels on the 71, most said with my skills no, I finally was able to get this car. I had been trying to get her for over a year and the owner finally agreed.

It has a 36 horse, have not looked at the trans yet nor checked the numbers. The car left the factory OCT 19, 1958 which was only a few months from when I was mfg in 1958, which is why I wanted it. The majority of parts appear to be there. have not found much more than surface rust except for the rear lower portion of the passenger fender, but I have not had time to get all over it. Needs a nasty patch removed in the battery area and all that replaced and buttoned up. A little work on the drivers door. Another bad patch on passenger side rear lower front fender. The biggest amount of work I see so far is the head lights. Both are bondo up to the bucket lips that stick out. Most of the bondo in the area has been cleaned out so once I get that last little bit out I will know more. Small lil depression on drivers C pillar but the pillar looks ok.

I am looking for picts of the parts that mount headlight to the body and how it is done as whats in there are metal screws into the surrounding sheet metal, which I am guessing is not correct.

Found the ingnition switch wired up in the motor compartment. Looks convenientt for a rainy day LOL. Found an old Mr Gasket fuse board under the hood. Missing the vertical chrome in front of the quarter windows and the over riders. Steering wheel looks restorable I just need the filler part that fits inside the horn ring. typical exterior chorme needed. Also may need a few replacement swithces but have not got in there yet with no power. Not even sure of the voltage yet. Need passenger front signal set up, dome light, radio cover, new rear lens'.

Not to bad of a parts list. Then strip her down and start back up.
At least its not heater channels. Which I still may do after this one is done Rolling Eyes

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Last edited by djway3474 on Wed Sep 12, 2012 12:39 am; edited 1 time in total
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djway3474
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 1:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scored a ton of parts I needed today. Hopin they are good enough to save. I am finding a lot of reproduction parts. T

The only old stuff I currently know of that I need is:

Sheet metal behind the motor where the latch bolts on HELP Sad

Horn button for 59 HELP AGAIN Confused

Drivers rear over rider tube

rear middle over rider tube

rear quarter behind tire on passenger side patch

door panel chrome

then it is on to the zillions of new things.

Just orderd the Birth Cert but I am pretty sure I know the color. In a few recessed corners I think I see Bambo and the cloth I found on the seats match what the books say should be the color.
Next item is to see if she will fire up


Last edited by djway3474 on Fri Sep 28, 2012 7:50 pm; edited 3 times in total
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djway3474
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Discovered the body # today. 942
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ghiarossa
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like you are having fun with yours.

If its Bamboo then I think your top should be a dark Amazon Green.
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1958 VW Karmann Ghia coupe
1971 VW Karmann Ghia cabriolet
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djway3474
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ghiarossa wrote:
Looks like you are having fun with yours.

If its Bamboo then I think your top should be a dark Amazon Green.

I have found traces of the green also and the bamboo and even some of the original fabric.
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retrowagen
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By the time your Coupe was assembled, the body number was almost meaningless. Yours was not the 942nd karmann-Ghia made; rather, a 3-digit number meant just to keep lids and doors with the body they were prepared for (fitted to) through the prep and paint process. Once Karmann made it through 999, the number cycled back to 001.
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djway3474
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

retrowagen wrote:
By the time your Coupe was assembled, the body number was almost meaningless. Yours was not the 942nd karmann-Ghia made; rather, a 3-digit number meant just to keep lids and doors with the body they were prepared for (fitted to) through the prep and paint process. Once Karmann made it through 999, the number cycled back to 001.


I have a 1960 parts car that is number 7472
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sparkleplenty
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 5:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have body #4355 on my 56'....The doors, hood and engine lid all have #355 stamped in them.
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djway3474
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 4:29 pm    Post subject: Received my Birth Certificate Today I have questions ??? Reply with quote

Here is the information listed in the package.
Color L 241 Bamboo with roof L 316 Deep Green
Built October 9, 1958 in Osnabrueck
Left factory on October 14
Went to St. Louis
Options -
M128 White walls
M 355 US equipment which includes
MPH Speedometer
Sealed beams
Hazard warning system without flashers ???What is that???
Laminated windscreen
Ram protection ???what is that???
Reversing light ??? what would that look like???
6volt system (standard)
6volt system (US equipment) ???what is extra for US 6volt???

It also had a letter included stating that my engine is not the one that came with the car but does not list the correct number

Any answers to the above questions would be appreciated
Thanks to all
DJ
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ghiarossa
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 10:14 pm    Post subject: Codes Reply with quote

Ram protection is what they call the overrider towel bars on your bumpers. About 500 cars after mine, US Type 143s got them.

The rest would be guessing. Might want to check other birth certificates.
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1958 VW Karmann Ghia coupe
1971 VW Karmann Ghia cabriolet
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djway3474
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 05, 2012 12:08 pm    Post subject: more information on the included options Reply with quote

Ok more information on the two options of Reverser light and the hazard warning non flashing
Reverser light was an attachment to the back of the speedo that would turn on a clear light on the rear bumper when the car backed up. I believe the clear light would be on the passenger side rear bumper.
The hazard warning light is a switch under the dash that went to another light on the rear bumper but on the side the driver was on ie left vs right hand drive. The purpose of the light was to turn on in bad weather conditions as an aid to be seen from the rear of the car. The lens in this unit was red.

If anyone has a picture of the underdash switch so I can try to find the correct looking item, that would be greatly appreciated
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2012 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rebuilt the carb yesterday and was able to get the lil gal running. Ran pretty smooth with the choke on full. Still some issues and I think many of them are from haveing an electric fuel pump that I think is overwhelming the carb.
I pulled the stock fuel pump off the block and discoverd the pump rod is missing. Ok another thing to search for. They don't seem to be that easy to find. Rebuild kits luckily are all over the place.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2012 2:31 pm    Post subject: Clock to Tachometer build Reply with quote

I purchase the decal available here on the Samba from a nice fellow. I went to Pomona and picked up a 914 tach for $15 and I had a clock out of the parts car that did not work. I tried to figure out how to put the tach guts inside the clock body and seal it all up but it was beyond my abilities. So, I decided to convert the tach body to fit the dash like the clock would. The chrome on the clock was pretty bad so I found some jewelers rouge and a dremel and polished the chrome. The parts that do shine are so bright that they glare over the bad spots. Depending on how the rest of the car comes out I will eventually find a better ring or rechrome this one.
Next step was to make the tach body accept the clock chrome ring. I marked the tach body and then filed it off. If you have something better than a hand file use it as it took a long time to file everything but eventually it fit. See the black marks below for how much had to be filed, it does not show real well sorry-
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Next I cut the mounting tabs off the clock body with the dremel and attached them with JB Weld
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I completly filed the lip off in the areas the mounts were to attach.
Next I had to deconstruct the clock face and drill new holes for the screws to attache the guts of the tach. I had to remove the collar in the middle. I then filled in the old holes, smoothed it out and painted with a hobby paint by Tamiya called Light Gun Metal. I used a dark gray primer to deepen the color.
Here is a picture of the test fitting with the new holes to mount the tach workings to the clock face
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Next was the part I was dreading. Application of the decal. I have been a scale modeler for many years and decals can be tricky when they are water slide varity but this is sticky vinyl and you cant move it around. So I centered the face over the decal and marked the decal with a perm marker and the cut around that. I gave myself a little extra material to allow the decal to move down around the curves on the clock face. I then removed the vinyl backing and marked the decals backside with reference marks at 12 and 6. Then I placed the decal face down, sticky up and dropped the old clock face over it. I then started applying pressure on the flat surface where the numbers are and worked my way to both compound curved areas. After gentle working, I cut off the outer excess and the middle section where the chrome trim went back in. Next is to take an exacto blade and start making fine cuts over every little air bubble that I could not work out untill they were all popped and everything sat as flat as possible.
Now at this point due to the shinny decal it still looked pretty bad but luckily I known an old modelers trick. I coated the surface with some hobby Tamiya flat clear. Suddenly all the little imperfections go away and it looks great.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Now on my clock face the stamping is far from symetrical but the method I used centered the art work circles on the inner raised surface. The outer bevel is uneven at best.
Next I decided that in the 50s tach needles were probably not dayglow red but i still wanted red so it would stand out. I used a bright red paint and sprayed just the needle portion.
I then used the glass from the 914 tach and the front flat black ring from the clock that I resprayed flat and remounted the chrome front ring with its internal gasket in place. And there you have it. I nice looking tach for the old Ghia for around $60 invested.
Here is the finished tach
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Cool
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djway3474
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 6:57 pm    Post subject: Opening Pandoras Box Reply with quote

Got one of those 3m wheels today and decided that dig in to some of the bondo.
Found a patch like this on both fronts.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Underneath I found this
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the bottom of the A pillar support is gone behind the wire loom tube. I think I feel a small problem on the back of the loo tube also.

They just welded these big panels over the holes and rust.
Looks like I have some work to do here.

Also found this on the upper corners on the body above the rear deck lid. I found a wavy pattern that almost looked like a crack but when I hit it with the wheel it looked like lead underneath. It is very soft and I can scratch it with my finger nail and it partially ground out.
Not sure if you can see it but here is a pict of one corner It is the crescent shape going around the corner
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Any one have any idea what is going on here???
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Loren
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 8:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The factory used lead in various places to fill low spots. You will find some around the front hood, around the decklid, door jambs, window frames, etc. If you look at my project you can see lead in these areas too:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=403985
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djway3474
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 10:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Loren wrote:
The factory used lead in various places to fill low spots. You will find some around the front hood, around the decklid, door jambs, window frames, etc. If you look at my project you can see lead in these areas too:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=403985

Thanks Loren
That was my thought but it reminded me of the look of some of the stress fractures on the nose.
Question, are only the lower rear section of the front wheel wells shaped differnt than later years or are the rears different than the later year patch panels too? I have only found one small area in the rear that looks mildy rusty so far.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2012 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

got the mirror torn all the way down
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took out the bad metal in the motor compartement. Used the drill bit and paint scraper method.
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Once I got all the bad metal it was very easy to relax the panels back into position.
This bottom corner gap was quite wide before
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on this side the deck lid overlapped the body
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just waiting for new metal
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Hosted on Fotki
I am going to try and save the bottom valance as the new metal has exhaust dimples and that would probably be just as hard to fix.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 3:11 am    Post subject: Re: Clock to Tachometer build Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

That looks good, you must be pleased Very Happy
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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 12:28 am    Post subject: novice metal worker rebuilding what is gone Reply with quote

Well with about 10 practice spot welds I decided to go for it. I filled in a bunch of holes at the rear of the car, which went well, so I decided to go for some harder stuff. The nose ridge. I made the tool Greg demonstrated in his youtube videos and roughed the nose into shape. I then used that tool to bend a piece of copper into the shape. I could then clamp that behind the big hole where prior persons had ground the nose ridge away. Top to botton the ridge is missing metal.
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here is the copper backing plate and starting to build in the metal. Think of the work as a really slow 3d printer LOL
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I then ground rough shape with a small cutting wheel and then went to hand files.
Following are the two largest holes roughed back in. Fine metal work will come later. Metal is much thicker and stronger now Cool
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Onward goes the battle Very Happy
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oldbusboy
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 8:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking great! The tach turned out really nicely!
Keep it up.

Trevor
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