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DJ's Oct '58 Coupe - Motor '57
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djway3474
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 3:02 pm    Post subject: Stone Beige Reply with quote

Went to the paint shop today to get singe stage urethane to do the seat frames steering column etcetera.
Found a 50s Studebaker color called Old Ivory. I have a section on the steering column where the paint looked new we used for comparison. Even though the color looked darn close to me the guy darkened the color slightly and it exactly matched the paint we were looking at.
So if you need to have some mixed that is a good place to start.
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djway3474
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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First time in a long time did some actual hands on with the lil gal.
Test fitted all my bumper parts to see if the body reconstruction is all lined up.
Im Back Baby Cool
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oldbusboy
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 10:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

looking awesome!

Trevor
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c21darrel
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smells like Progress. Take advantage of the cooler weather!
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djway3474
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

c21darrel wrote:
Smells like Progress. Take advantage of the cooler weather!

That cool left around 11. Now it feels like the South LOL. But it is a dry humidity Wink
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djway3474
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 10:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The antenna hole is now where I want it and I can use a hideaway antenna.
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Put a new outer body on the ignition switch to take care of the missing mounting tab.
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Purchased some new lower door panel molding and I have been working on a way to put the mounting strip in. My solution is to put two pieces of wood in a vice and clamp the molding down as the opening is too wide to grasp the mounting strip. Came out great.
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Clatter
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

An excellent build thread, thanks for sharing...

A body/paint guy recently laughed at me for wanting to use my old paint guns.

The newer HVLP guns do not leave over-spray everywhere like old guns,
And,
With paint costs what they are,
Would possibly pay for themselves after painting only one car, due to the paint that didn't fly away.

While there are certainly bad painters around,
A friend recently showed me his car, done correctly.
Straight from the gun, it was so perfect, that I would have sworn it was cut and buffed.

Auto paint and products have come a long way lately.
The desire for people to do proper work, not so much....
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djway3474
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 12:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clatter wrote:
An excellent build thread, thanks for sharing...

A body/paint guy recently laughed at me for wanting to use my old paint guns.

The newer HVLP guns do not leave over-spray everywhere like old guns,
And,
With paint costs what they are,
Would possibly pay for themselves after painting only one car, due to the paint that didn't fly away.

While there are certainly bad painters around,
A friend recently showed me his car, done correctly.
Straight from the gun, it was so perfect, that I would have sworn it was cut and buffed.

Auto paint and products have come a long way lately.
The desire for people to do proper work, not so much....


Do you know the paint brand your friend uses. How it is reduced and what gun he sprays with?
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Clatter
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been lurking different paint shops trying to find the right one.
There are a couple here in Santa Cruz that I can tell from personal experience are NOT the right one.

Three different shops have stood out.
The one I mention was the paint from NAPA, called Martin Senior, something like that, made by Sherwin Williams.
Cheap stuff, compared to others. looked like it was cut/buffed. No surface anything. Not even dust nibs. Apparently a HEPA filtered booth???

Spent some time staring at PPG and Sikkens that were beautiful too.
Those cost more, but can be made so perfect....

My Oval was shot in DuPont a few (8?) hears ago, and it as held up very well, despite some spotty prep.

Sorry I don't have more detail on the guns used.
A local place that shoots the Sikkens uses an Iwata gun that cost like $700 unfortunately. Some other guys tell me that the $100 HVLP guns can do as well for a while, if set up correctly.

My inclination on this current car was to do underneath the heater channels, inside the doors, etc. and practice.
If it lays down beautifully, or can be made to lay down beautifully, then I will continue, otherwise, it will go to the pros...
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djway3474
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will practice on the under side and under the hoods but I am only going to use a single stage there. The outside will be two stage in case I need to cut n buff as it is a metallic and metallics don't like cutting
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All the tabs were broken off of the proper year rear deck release so I fabricated some new tabs
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fabricated new tabs to replace the broken on the seat back and even welded two springs
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test fit the radio in the new metal on the dash
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found these two screw mounts on both doors. My guess is that they help hold the rubber down. Anyone have pictures of them in good condition. I just found them buried under what I think is silicone adhesive.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 12:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Modified the seat back mounts to accept a nut. This type of seat design was know to collapse during an accident. The seat would just pop apart. The mod should stop that. I need to find a good cap nut.

Also swapped out the 6v wiper armature for a 12v unit. That was easy Very Happy
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 1:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This might help you.
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I had to crop them from a wider shot so not as sharp as I'd like to share, however you can see the shape. You might try KGPR in case these are available. They wouldn't be expensive I should think.

Cheers
Nicholas
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 2:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you Nicholas.
Did I guess correctly that they are for the door seal?
They appear to be a thin brass and could easily be shaped if needed, I hope Confused
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 2:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

djway3474 wrote:
Did I guess correctly that they are for the door seal?
They appear to be a thin brass and could easily be shaped if needed, I hope Confused

Yes , the edge of the seal is held in by the clip. The idea is to stop the seal curling in the crease behind the accent lines.

I'm not sure if these are brass. Yours wouldn't have corroded if so. Instead, Nickel plated steel I would think. Like I said, try KGPR.

Nicholas
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sputnick60 wrote:
djway3474 wrote:
Did I guess correctly that they are for the door seal?
They appear to be a thin brass and could easily be shaped if needed, I hope Confused

Yes , the edge of the seal is held in by the clip. The idea is to stop the seal curling in the crease behind the accent lines.

I'm not sure if these are brass. Yours wouldn't have corroded if so. Instead, Nickel plated steel I would think. Like I said, try KGPR.

Nicholas


KGPR does not even show them on the exploded diagram. That is why I was surprised to find them. They do show a similar looking piece on the bottom of the door but not listed as an available part. I will go give the bottom of the door a look.
That is not corrosion you see. That appears to be layer upon layer of various glues and I use color enhancement on the digital camera to spot things I may not see in person (neat trick). I only have 3 of them and one appears to be broken for being worked too much. The brass unit may have been someone's attempt to re create it as not all 3 are shaped the same.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 10:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Over the years larger screws had been used for the rear tail light lens's. I filled the holes with JB weld and then re drilled the hole and tapped them for the proper screw.
Lets see if that stuff is as strong as they say.
I had a spare link pin front end so I took that apart. I am going to attempt to put in my own adjusters and maybe even narrow 2 inches.
I have had this idea that to remove the stock sway bar brackets, if I used a C clamp to take the pressure off of the clasp that it should be easier to get them off. It was. Only took a few minutes to remove all 4 clasp and they can be reused.
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Running out of small jobs to do.

I have got to get this thing blasted Evil or Very Mad
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Went to a place called McFadden Dale today. Got all my bumper bolts, nuts and washers for the bumpers plus all the little screws a low light needs for the chrome around the windows and weather seals and interior bits. All stainless.
All for around 20 bucks Very Happy
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2014 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
All for around 20 bucks

Smart man.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a tail light mounting question. What is the correct way to secure them to the car? Screw the lens to the bulb holder, then install the rubber gasket and then mount the whole assembly to the fender with the wing nut? My screw holes are stripped too. I was think of using a flat speed nut behind the stripped hole. Please post if the JB Weld holds.
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