Skogen, The Tristar Syncro, 3-day conversion live at Busfest

[SyncroGhia]

While I was working on the propshaft, I noticed that one of the rear CV boots was split.

After a further look, it turns out that 3 of the 4 CV boots had split! So I've spent this afternoon/evening going through the CV joints and boots stock.

After 2 replaced CV joints and 3 CV boots, I have a good set of rear driveshafts all bolted back on.

I also removed the spacers from the front differential rear mounting brackets and fitted them to the gearbox mounts instead.

I could only get a 20mm spacer in due to the length of the bolts.

With the 20mm spacers in, I now have a 2.1 degree angle on the gearbox flange. Not 4 degrees but closer. The propshaft is now running at 1 degree nose down in relation to the van.

If things are improved, I'll get some longer bolts and go further with this.

I also fitted the propshaft with the rubber coupling at the back.

With all of this changed, I took it for a test drive.

The results are good!

Driving now has a slight vibration which is always there but it livable with.

Obviously the engine is sitting a lot lower than I thought. Even with a 20mm spacer, I've only managed to get to 1.5 degrees back so I think that with a 50mm spacer, I'll probably be where I need to be (4 degrees) and I will have actually lowered the engine/gearbox 50mm without having to touch the engine bar.

The other work done today has been replacing the 'check-valve' in the fuel pump.

Ever since I converted it to Syncro, the fuel pump has needed priming after the van has sat for more than 5 minutes and sometimes it can take 2 minutes of priming before the fuel system has enough pressure to fire up the engine.

I pulled out a spare pump and swapped the valve over. So far it's fixed the issue and it now starts on the first turn.

MG
_________________
T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
T3 Tristar Syncro RHD SOLD

[SyncroGhia]

POST!

A HUGE thanks to Ian Mcgilvary for these Tristar Syncro decals

Now I just need some measurements as to exactly where it fits on the front panel.

Does anyone reading have a Tristar Syncro (untouched) that they could take some measurements and photos of please so that I can fit it in the right position?

MG
_________________
T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
T3 Tristar Syncro RHD SOLD

[vw4wd]

Michael,
as you know, I don't have a Tristar but a I do have an original brochure. Photo below created by scanning the brochure. Also, an original, full resolution, scan emailed direct to you.

It looks like the right side of the sticker aligns with the wiper hub and the bottom edge of the 'y' in syncro is above the panel bottom edge by it's own height.

I hope this helps.
_________________
Garyd

1990 Transporter syncro camper with 2 litre AGG 'GTi' engine

[Zeitgeist 13]

If it's a Tri-Star, then why are there four colored sails(?) making up the A?
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[SyncroGhia]

Thanks Gary.

I have been trawling the net for photos of Tristar Syncros with the decal from straight ahead.

Because of the design of the front panel, the only accurate way of viewing where the decal is positioned is from straight ahead.

These vans I believe have original paint and decals as position by VW.

These photos I think are of vans that have been repainted and therefore has had a new decal fitted.

Obviously I owned an original Tristar Syncro RHD a number of years ago and have photos stored away somewhere... I don't remember taking a photo of the decal though.

MG
_________________
T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
T3 Tristar Syncro RHD SOLD

[SyncroGhia]

[SyncroGhia]

After a rubbish day with other things... I decided to cheer myself up and do some bits and pieces on the van.

Off with the 'Syncro' decal and on with the 'Tristar Syncro' decal.

The colours are wrong but I'm not complaining as the decals were free (Thanks again Ian!).

I decided to line up the tops of the sales with the wiper spindle panel shape and equal spacing from the top and bottom of the decal to the angles of the front panel.

Next, I picked up a set of clear opening 1/4s a while ago and threw them in.

Last was a little bit of work on the lights. My fog lights (both front and rear) had decided to not work recently and now that we're getting fog and mist on a regular basis, I need them.

It turned out to be a bad contact on the feed into the switch so nice and simple

MG
_________________
T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
T3 Tristar Syncro RHD SOLD

[bene ben ben]

Looks wicked buddy...
Do you still want me to measure the one round the corner from my parents house?
Will get a couple of picks anyway.
cheers

[SyncroGhia]

Thanks Ben,

Yes please. At some point, I would like to get the bodywork and paint done and will need accurate measurements and photos for fitting the next one.

MG
_________________
T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
T3 Tristar Syncro RHD SOLD

[SyncroGhia]

Mental note to self... Max height of Skogen is 2105mm. That's to top of the canopy.

A bit of welding done today in readiness for the MOT.

When I removed the breather reservoirs for the fuel tank (as part of the Syncro conversion) two holes presented themselves to me

The van has been getting damp as a result with all the water being thrown up from the tyres.

MG
_________________
T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
T3 Tristar Syncro RHD SOLD

[vw4wd]

[SyncroGhia]

[vw4wd]

You missed my point about your dimensional error, Michael.

2105cm = 21m = 69ft!!

However,
2105mm = 2.1m = 6.9ft which I would think is rather nearer the figure? Just a few (6?) inches taller than me.

Yes? No?
_________________
Garyd

1990 Transporter syncro camper with 2 litre AGG 'GTi' engine

[SyncroGhia]

[SyncroGhia]

Update on propshaft angle mods.

I picked up some 50mm blocks and M10 x 1.5 x 150mm cap head 12.9 bolts. Drilled the blocks and fitted them this morning.

Just checking the current angle again before I removed the 20mm spacers.

This was just a reference figure for comparison and not accurate as the van wasn't level.

With the spacers in place, I've managed to gain my last 2 degrees...

I was in a rush this morning otherwise I would've got the van levelled up and double and triple checked the results. I'll try to do that over the weekend once the weather has cleared up.

What's interesting is that despite the 4o angle, the gearbox flange is now lower than the front diff flange... as such the front and rear UJ angles are not equal and the propshaft is running around 1o up in relation to the van.

I've still got propshaft vibrations... not surprisingley.

More work to be done... but I am getting there.

MG
_________________
T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
T3 Tristar Syncro RHD SOLD

[SyncroGhia]

A good day today

I spent most of the day (when not packing up parts that I'd sold) finally getting to the bottom of this propshaft UJ angle issue.

Rather than just trying to work it out on a gut instinct, I sat myself down (after having taking lots of measurements) and worked out the UJ angles properly.

The reason that it took most of the day is that everything takes a little while to settle once you've made adjustments and what seems to the answer one minute and then after a quick test drive, not only is it easy to feel (that seat of the pants testing) that it's not quite right but upon measuring again, everything has changed!

This time, I decided to measure the angles end on with the inclinometer... making it easier to read.

Front

Rear

Then I tried to take readings from the end caps.

As you can see, it's not as easy to get accurate readings.

The propshaft was running at .15o

Putting these figures into a little diagram helped me work out what was going on.

So an angle of 5.5o and an angle of 2.9o is why my propshaft vibrates! Not surprising really.

I worked out that by running a 4.0o front angle and a 3.0o rear angle, I'd cancel out the UJ angles getting them back to 0.

The 50mm spacers are too much so they have come out and by swapping out different width spacers, I managed to work out that I needed around 40mm spacers to get 3.0o.

At the front, I fitted a 4mm spacer which got me back to 4.0o.

The propshaft then sat at 0.07o.

With these spacers in, I took the van for a test drive.

The intial drive was good with almost no vibration felt at a constant speed but as soon as you accelerated hard, the vibration came back slightly.

Back home and check it again.

Before pulling it apart, I grabbed a friendly neighbour (VW Mechanic who lives over the road, thanks Scott!) to just comfirm that when the torque was applied in a forward gear, the engine dropped and the gearbox lifted. It's good to see it with your own eyes

By this time, I'd given up with trying to take measurements from the UJ end caps. Just sitting the inclinometer on top or holding it underneath the propshaft gave me an accurate measurement and I was able to slide it along several times just to check it.

I also ddn't spent any time levelling the van up as these measurements are only being compared to each other.

I also didn't take any more photos... sorry!

So the propshaft angle measured in at 0.02o facing up towards the front diff.

Two minutes of undoing bolts and the propshaft was off again.

The rear flange measured in at 3.6o and the front flange measure in at 3.2o.

I removed the 4mm spacers that I'd fitted under the front diff mounting bracket and that dropped the front diff back down to 3.6o.

That's 3.6o front and 3.6o rear and the propshaft (bolted back in place) measure at 0o

To confirm that I was on the right track, I took it out for another test drive.

I now have a smooth driving van with no propshaft vibrations

I'll continue to drive it and feel for vibrations etc before having the 50mm spacers down to 40mm just in case things settle differently.

It has also occured to me that when I'm fitting the Audi V8 engine, I may have to change this all again

MG
_________________
T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
T3 Tristar Syncro RHD SOLD

[SyncroGhia]

As it's MOT time again... I've been working my way through the list of things that need attending to.

Left over from the Syncro conversion was a small but important item to fix.

The front brake pipes come through to the suspension in a different position, 2WD to Syncro.

On a 2WD, the brake pipe (hard line) meets up with the flexi at the back of the area surrounding the top suspension arm and the bracket is welded to the body.

On a Syncro, the brake pipe meets up with the flexi at the front of the area surrounding the top suspension arm and passed through a metal bracket that bolts to the chassis.

On the previous Syncro conversions, I've managed to use the 2WD fitting and just run the flexi pipe around to it.

At Busfest, I had decided to use a set of 312mm brakes already fitted to a pair of Syncro uprights which I'd previously run on Limey.

I had spent some time working out which flexible hoses to use with them that would work with the stock Syncro bracket location.

I discovered at Busfest that they would not stretch across to the 2WD location. I can only think that I've used the 2WD flexi hoses on my previous Syncro conversions... I wish I had a better memory!

So... as both hardlines refused to leg go of the flexi pipes I had to make up new hard lines at the show and they would have to go to the stock Syncro location. However, I didn't have the Syncro brackets so they have been floating around a little since.

I ordered some stainless brackets and went about fitting them.

A couple of 5.5mm holes later along with bleeding the brakes (again!) and I had the brackets fitted ready for the MOT

The last thing on the list is to free off the headlight adjusting screws.

With the van sitting a fair bit higher than the last MOT, I know that the headlights will now fall into the 'truck' headlight height category and they'll need adjusting down.

I hope that they want to move after many years of sitting in the same position!

MG
_________________
T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
T3 Tristar Syncro RHD SOLD

[SyncroGhia]

The Tristar flew through the MOT

Lightening Machining https://www.facebook.com/LightningMachiningLtd in Banbury have done a great job of adding the crank sensor timing ring (60-2) to the Audi V8 flywheel that I picked up from ebay.de

Pete has been hit hard by both Marussia and Caterham Formula 1 teams both going into Administration as they carried out endless amounts of machining for them. Both teams owe Lightening Machining (and many other companies) tens of thousands. On the up side, Pete has enough work from other sources (and other F1 teams) that the business is still going strong.

I removed the ring gear (they're only pressed on) and asked Pete at Lightening Machining to remove the 60-2 timing gear from the flex plate and machine the flywheel for it.

They also removed a small amount of material so that the crank sensor would be able to sit 0.5-1.0mm away from the timing gear without hitting the rest of the flywheel.

I've just got to tack weld the ring gear in place and refit the ring gear and it'll be ready to bolt onto the engine.

Unfortunately, it looks like the clutch pressure plate that I picked up cheap isn't the correct one for the flywheel.

This is also the first time that I've had the flywheel back and will be able to check if the 240mm friction disc that a fellow Syncro owner (thanks Andy) sent over.

That said... we exchanged contracts on the house yesterday and move on Friday so I think that this is going to have to wait now.

MG
_________________
T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
T3 Tristar Syncro RHD SOLD

[SyncroGhia]

I'm not sure what I was thinking but the clutch pressure plate fits fine.

The friction plate however needs machining before I can use it.

I may end up looking for another friction plate...

MG
_________________
T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
T3 Tristar Syncro RHD SOLD

[SyncroGhia]

Hello John
_________________
T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
T3 Tristar Syncro RHD SOLD