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Driving our Kombi through mexico, central america and beyond
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dangerbus
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

drum definitely seemed loose to me...i got it off with only a wrench (granted an 18" wrench but it didnt take so much as a grunt)...

but that's not all that's going on as the brakes were covered in oil...
im opening things back up and hoping the guys show up soon for another set of eyes.

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Clara Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

could you tell where the oil was seeping out of?

plug behind RGB?
RGB case half?
under the seal holder?

over the face of the seal?


FWIW, you do need to torque the axle nut down properly to get the center seal to seal. If you did not need to stand on that 18" wrench to take it off it was probably not snug enough.
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 9:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clara wrote:
could you tell where the oil was seeping out of?

plug behind RGB?
RGB case half?
under the seal holder?

over the face of the seal?


FWIW, you do need to torque the axle nut down properly to get the center seal to seal. If you did not need to stand on that 18" wrench to take it off it was probably not snug enough.


That was my first thought. It never got torqued down all the way, and that caused the leak.
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dangerbus
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clara wrote:
could you tell where the oil was seeping out of?

plug behind RGB?
RGB case half?
under the seal holder?

over the face of the seal?


FWIW, you do need to torque the axle nut down properly to get the center seal to seal. If you did not need to stand on that 18" wrench to take it off it was probably not snug enough.


right out from under the stub axle
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does that mean we shouldnt be pounding the stub axle out again, we should just be tightening the drum down?? Shocked
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dangerbus wrote:
Clara wrote:
you do need to torque the axle nut down properly to get the center seal to seal. If you did not need to stand on that 18" wrench to take it off it was probably not snug enough.



does that mean we shouldnt be pounding the stub axle out again, we should just be tightening the drum down?? Shocked



I would try this first and see if that fixes it before stripping it down again.
I had this exact same issue when i first had my bus, drove me nuts when i realized all i needed to do was tighten up the drum

oh and make sure the drain hole on the bottom of the bearing cover is clear so if it does leak it will go out the back of the backing plate and not all over on the inside.
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 9:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dangerbus wrote:


does that mean we shouldn't be pounding the stub axle out again, we should just be tightening the drum down?? Shocked


Yes. At the very least, try that first.
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dangerbus
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 9:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

holy #$&%!!
only here...

We're lying under the bus trying to work the stub axle (dont worry, now aborting mission because your idea sounds WAY easier)...
and we have the back hatch open for access to tools-

another vehicle backs up directly into the hatch (rather than the other 30' available behind the bus) and almost pushes the bus off the blocks.
Seriously?? Shocked

luckily, it was blocked well rather than just the jack (thanks to last weeks lesson) and nobody was hurt-
other than the hinges to the rear hatch which obviously no longer close.

i guess thats our next project. argh. Confused
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow! That sounds a little too close for comfort. Hope you can tweak that hatch back into shape. It needs to seal properly to keep exhaust fumes out of the cabin.
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Ian
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shit!!!

I would recommend finding a "cheater pipe" it's a piece of tubing that you can slip over your current mechanical device which will give you more leverage.
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dangerbus
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ian wrote:
Shit!!!

I would recommend finding a "cheater pipe" it's a piece of tubing that you can slip over your current mechanical device which will give you more leverage.


Already laying beside the bus. Of course, the only one they had at the hostel we're working at is about 7' long...so it might be a tad over the top... Laughing
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big bus mike
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 9:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure the axle seal is installed correctly:

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dangerbus
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 10:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

big bus mike wrote:
Make sure the axle seal is installed correctly:

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The outer spacer 8 can actually slide on either before or after the bearing cover (right past 9, 10, 11 on the stub axle/shaft)...

is that normal/okay? seems different than what the diagram shows.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, that's fine. I think that diagram is for small nut 36mm RGB because of the angled brake adjuster holder and oil slinger washer.

Your version shouldn't use a metal washer at all on the axle.
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big bus mike
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dangerbus wrote:

The outer spacer 8 can actually slide on either before or after the bearing cover (right past 9, 10, 11 on the stub axle/shaft)...

is that normal/okay? seems different than what the diagram shows.


It will fit that way on a big-nut rear end. That diagram is for "small nut" setup, but it was the only one I could find off hand.
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dangerbus
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

big bus mike wrote:
dangerbus wrote:

The outer spacer 8 can actually slide on either before or after the bearing cover (right past 9, 10, 11 on the stub axle/shaft)...

is that normal/okay? seems different than what the diagram shows.


It will fit that way on a big-nut rear end. That diagram is for "small nut" setup, but it was the only one I could find off hand.


just checking... all new to me!
thanks
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay.
So we're back together and the tapping noise is gone.

there is a bit of a low humming noise however that maybe could be tire noise but certainly doesnt sound familiar to us (but were also on high alert for noise from that wheel).

Any chance the small corners broken off the teeth could would cause this noise??

It certainly feels good/right- but i dont want to take any chances before crossing the border.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dude, your journey is epic, loving the video on page 1. Itīs given me so much inspiration for my journey into North America. Canīt wait for that.

I canīt believe we are both in Nicaragua and we have missed each other, if only I knew before I would have come and met you for sure, I was in your currently location San Juan Del Sur a week ago Surprised

If for any reason I come down there again chasing waves I will let you know for sure. If you start heading north you have to let me know so we can meet up for a beer, I am travelling quite slowly!
But if I was you I would cross into South America, it is amazing! If you need any advice on getting across to Colombia let me know, if you need any inspiration to go there, check out my videos on YT http://www.youtube.com/user/kombilife

Happy travels and keep living the dream!

Ben
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dangerbus wrote:
there is a bit of a low humming noise however that maybe could be tire noise but certainly doesnt sound familiar to us (but were also on high alert for noise from that wheel).

Any chance the small corners broken off the teeth could would cause this noise??



When the bearing on the rear of the stub axle began to fail it allowed the gears to be positioned in an orientation other than that which they were machined for. As the failure progressed, the misalignment was worse. The tolerances for those gears is pretty tight and by them operating in a way that the machined teeth were not in perfect aligment, the teeth were in essence, "remachined". Now that everything is back to normal, the gears, which, most likely, were subtley "remachined" are now clashing. Straight cut gears are noisy when everything is perfect. I think you are hearing the result of the abuse they were subjected too. Well, that and your newly attuned ears are more sensitive to the noise.

I would wager that some of the noise will disappear shortly as the gears get reacquainted. But keep checking things, especially the temp of the axle nut. That has always been the way I assess the health of the RGBs.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

HastaAlaska wrote:
Dude, your journey is epic, loving the video on page 1. Itīs given me so much inspiration for my journey into North America. Canīt wait for that.

I canīt believe we are both in Nicaragua and we have missed each other, if only I knew before I would have come and met you for sure, I was in your currently location San Juan Del Sur a week ago Surprised

If for any reason I come down there again chasing waves I will let you know for sure. If you start heading north you have to let me know so we can meet up for a beer, I am travelling quite slowly!
But if I was you I would cross into South America, it is amazing! If you need any advice on getting across to Colombia let me know, if you need any inspiration to go there, check out my videos on YT http://www.youtube.com/user/kombilife

Happy travels and keep living the dream!

Ben


sadly ben, were heading south instead of north but if things change ill let you know (and please do the same)!
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dangerbus
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cru62 wrote:


When the bearing on the rear of the stub axle began to fail it allowed the gears to be positioned in an orientation other than that which they were machined for. As the failure progressed, the misalignment was worse. The tolerances for those gears is pretty tight and by them operating in a way that the machined teeth were not in perfect aligment, the teeth were in essence, "remachined". Now that everything is back to normal, the gears, which, most likely, were subtley "remachined" are now clashing. Straight cut gears are noisy when everything is perfect. I think you are hearing the result of the abuse they were subjected too. Well, that and your newly attuned ears are more sensitive to the noise.

I would wager that some of the noise will disappear shortly as the gears get reacquainted. But keep checking things, especially the temp of the axle nut. That has always been the way I assess the health of the RGBs.


Sounds like good news, but we'll take it easy for a while and check often.

lets hope our second departure turns out a bit better than the first =)
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