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Getting the 1986 "Westy" back into shape!
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djkeev
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PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2015 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's been a mighty long time since I removed my dash!
It is stunning how long so little takes to do!

It is a very good thing that I put hardware into labeled baggies as they were removed.

Finished hooking up my air box, along with the ability to shut off forced outside air and recirculate cabin air, I also modified the box to deliver warm air to the dash vents. I had to manufacture new hoses and connections to enable this new air path. It came out really well!
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Took a few hours but it is all installed and the Dash is back in the Van.
I still have a heap of switches and wires to finish up but progress!
I put in washer nozzles and new washer fluid hose. I also put in a new Hirshman antenna as well.

I ran new Wires from the new Heater Blower Resistor to the Heater Fan Switch location. I labeled them to avoid confusion. The Factory color scheme is history!
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I removed my ground trees, they were corroded and nasty. I sanded the body connection point to assure a good connection.
To clean the trees I plopped them into a cup of Muriatic Acid. They fizzed and bubbled and smoked. Acid turned Pee Yellow but look at my cleaned Tree!

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I dipped the wire ends as well, here's a before shot. They came out looking new! I had to replace three ends, they were loose and cracked, they did not grip the trees tightly.

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Dash back on, installed my Brickworks gauge cluster too.......
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2015 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The muriatic acid treatment removed the zinc plating. I'm not so sure that's a good thing. The trees will now rust very easily.
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PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2015 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^ Very likely. Grease 'em up, Dave!
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djkeev
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PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2015 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andrew A. Libby wrote:
The muriatic acid treatment removed the zinc plating. I'm not so sure that's a good thing. The trees will now rust very easily.


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Eh! Nothing Rusts in the Northeast!

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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2015 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

While putting the dash together I pulled out the Glove box light and remembered that it was broken.
The copper rivet holding the +12v terminal together had given up.

Drilled out the copper rivet, found a 4mm screw and nut.....
VIOLA'!!!! Fixed!

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Even though I bagged all of the dash screws together..... Its been a process of discovery figuring out where they all get reinstalled to!

Installed the Glove box but because of my modification that vents warm air from the side dash vents, i need to modify my Glove box door a smidgen and make new swing down limiters as shown in this post......

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=626772&highlight=glove

Dave
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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2015 2:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

During the Winter I had picked up an inline heater shut off valve from TK.
I simply want a stone cold heater core during the Summer to maximize the AC's efficiency.

The dash is about done so I figured let's install this valve before there is coolant in the hoses.



Actually a stupid simple operation, just cut and clamp.
I chose to put it in the return line back to the engine (hose exits floor closest to Right Side) it hangs low and has a straight run that is easily cut out.

I Had installed all of the dash cover bits to allow me to gauge accessibility without removing trim bits.

Anyway here it is installed......
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Here the covers are installed and you can see how easy it is to reach the shut off lever. ........ (VW's consistent Brown plastic color control is AWESOME!!!!!! Rolling Eyes )
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Thanks TK!
A great inexpensive mod!

It does help to have the proper tools.
For years I Cut small hoses with a utility knife, I always worried about taking a piece of my finger and the cuts I made were always crooked and ragged.
I picked up this tool awhile back...... Fantastic! It is simply a utility knife blade held into a pair of pliers and a cutting anvil. One sqeeze and you've got a perfect cut! ..........
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TK also sent me standard worm drive clamps with the valve, Adequate ......... but I really dislike them and chose to use an ABA clamp that has the worm on the outside, no cut outs and chamfered edges on the clamp to not cut the hose......
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All in all......... an excellent product, very pleased.

Dave
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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2015 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Next Project while the cooling system is empty, the spare tire is gone and the radiator and fan are out...... A new Heater control Valve.

Now I've read the horror stories about how bad the replacement VW proper valves are, they leak in short order and the control cables are said to be near to impossible to clip on and adjust!

Someone mentioned a Ford Valve at some point.
My parts guy had this, fits older ford Pickup Trucks.......

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It is flow direction noted but the control bracket unscrews and can flip 180* as needed.

The VW valve stops water from flowing into the heater core. It is in the feed line from the cylinder head.
The flow arrow will point to the heater core.

This valve also "pushes" to stop the flow and "pulls" to turn on the flow like VW's valve does.

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djkeev
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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2015 11:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I removed the VW Heater Valve.....
God I HATE those spring hose clamps in tight quarters!

I pulled the operating cable up into the Van and modified the end to fit the Ford Valve. I Had to make a few tight coils.......

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I then hooked up the valve to the cable and made adjustments to enable full shut off and on with the proper lever travel.

I wrapped a piece of tape around the cable to make the clamp location on the cable housing and shoved it back through the grommet. I hooked up the cable and adjusted it according to my tape mark.

Once hooked up to the cable it was obvious that I had to lose a bend in the hose that had accommodated the VW Valve.
I Snipped off the last 90* and clamped the now straight hose onto the valve.
The lower outlet port of the Valve simply slips onto the heater hose coming in from the Head.

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And a view of the new Valve in place with the operating cable attached......

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Dave[/b]
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djkeev
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 2:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wired in the 52mm Tachometer and Oil Pressue gauge.

They are both mounted in Brickwerks Ash tray gauge pod (also being sold by T3 ).

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=627857

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Hooked up the replacement Dash lighter socket, used a Generic off the shelf FLAPS unit. It has an amber lens instead of green but I'm not illumimating it so not big deal.

I also installed the Heater Control cover plate and slide levers.

All works well except one levers rubber head is loose and Wonky, I see replacements can be had from Van Cafe for $14...... but the worst part is the Plastic along the levers is cracked and broken.
Does anyone know of a heater control plate replacement source?
See above the Blue Fresh Air Line? A brown Piece is Long Gone!.....
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Now to neaten the wiring for my gauges and slip in the radio.

I wasn,t going to order a new fuel tank, just clean up the one in the Van but really? I've gone so far, why trip at the finish line?
Besides, the Po had serious venting problems and the tank is severely collapsed from it. i was going to pressurize it and all but.......
Just ordered the Spectea Canadian fuel tank based on this thread......
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6...mp;start=0

$150 ...... KaChing!
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the exception of the instrument Cluster being plugged in, the Dash is back together!

Checked the operation of the Neutral Start Switch, everything is plugged in and buttoned up.
All the control cables work freely as well.
The only Dash Task left is to lace up my Leather Wheelskin steering wheel cover!

I also need to locate an Automatic Shift Knob. Mine is BADLY sun damaged!

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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Moving to the Engine Compartment I am reinstalling the Body Electric Harness.
I had removed it to clean the Rust and repaint the entire engine and tail light recess area.
Once this is back in I can hook up a battery to test my recently finished dash without fear of catastrophic electrical shorts!

Having been Delivered in Connecticut, spent it's first four years there and then Relocated to Cape May NJ in 1990 where it grew up until I brought it North in 2003, there is surprisingly little rust on this Van.

But Oh! OH! Look at this ignition coil......

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I wasn't hopeful at all but removed the nuts to clean this mess up and just as I thought........ One doesn't break loose. Doesn't break off but spins within the molded coil top...... Crying or Very sad

Oh well....... I really wanted a new coil anyway!

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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 2:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Brickwerks Ashtray Gauge Pod has two studs glued to the bottom of the plastic unit.
They send two wing nuts (useless) and two fender washers to hold it to the dash.

I have an 86 so the Steel early model dash is overlaid with a foam padded dash.

There is a substantial gap between the two dash units and the fender washers squeeze the gauge pod tight.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Problem is the fender washers would tilt at a crazy angle and simply not fit right.

I solved this by bending the fender washers, gauge pod fastens much better.....
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Now with how the pod is designed you cannot firmly fasten the gauges into it.
There is zero room for the VDO mounting "Nut". You use Zip Ties around the gauge.
Problem is the Gauge bodies are White and the White peeks out at the gauge pod.
Solution?
Black Marker!
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Quite pleased.

Dave
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2015 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I purchased that Van back in 2013 I purchased a new battery in anticipation of using it....... NOT!!!!!

So I've got a Battery built in July 2012 that has not yet left the Driveway!
The warranty is done and the battery has sat..... And sat....... And sat....... I've kept it charged but not much use.

I did hook it up today and test my Dash electrics after the dash area rebuild. All is good! A few bulbs burned out but Fan works, wiper works, turn signals work, etc. The Battery is finally being called into service!

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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 3:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another casualty of the Northeasts love of Deicers......

The license plate light bulb holders........
So badly corroded that not even I will/can fix them, they just crumble

I see GoWesty has new ones though..... $15 each.
http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details.php?id=19041&category_id=293&category_parent_id=

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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brake Day!!!

Jacked up the front tire to renew the brakes.

How to tell that you've been a lazy no good for way too long?

Your Van sinks into the Asphalt!
Level across depression.

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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If any of you have wondered about the joys of a "barn find" or "field find" that has sat for years........

Last driven in 2002, 10 years in South Jersey, 3 years in NW Jersey.....

TraDa!! Pretty isn't it?

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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mixing in Some Italian Steel!

BREMBO

Not sure of what quality it is but I'll take Italian over Chinese any day!

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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The last task today was to pull the gas tank.

I had considered reusing it but decided the heck with it! Replace it!
Ordered a Spectra Tank.

It was quite easy to remove, the rubber grommets were sticky black Goo.

While it is out, tomorrow
I will feed some new Wires with the main harness front to rear for future unknown electrical use.

I will install the Bus Depot Power Steering hoses above the tank.
I will remove the rusty rotted metal PS pipes.

I will replace the 29 year old heater hoses front to rear.

Touch up the many spots of rust on the frame above the fuel tank.

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The entire bottom of the tank is imploded. The rusty corner is badly creased from poor tank venting.

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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I was testing, cleaning and Adjusting the Neutral Start Switch / Back Up Light Switch I noticed that the shift indicator light ground wire had been cut off by the PO and reconnected to the metal shift mechanism,

Obviously the ground wire had been compromised at some point. I didn't think much about it, just accepted it.

Now I drop the fuel tank and find a ground screw! Who knew? It grounds the Fuel Gauge sender AND THE SHIFT INDICATOR LIGHTS!!

Obviously the shift indicator wire isn't grounded! .......mthe ground screw looks suspect too!.....

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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, the day id half done!

I fixed the garage door spring which went "SPRONG!!!!!" Last night.

I was on the Phone FOREVER with US Air arranging for travel of small children adding them to my youngest daughters flight out of Denver to Philly.... Thank you Charlotte on the phone! Well done.

Now todays planned project......
New Heater Hose,
New PS hose,
Add front to rear wire while the gas tank is out..... Just because! No need right now but there is always tomorrows modification.
Two strands of 10gauge and a four pack of trailer wire.

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