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mukluk Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2012 Posts: 7028 Location: Clyde, TX
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Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2012 3:09 pm Post subject: |
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What you see here is the total area where some unknown repair shop had applied bondo to fix a dented fender... in some areas it was over one inch thick. I knocked the thick stuff off pretty quick by smacking the other side with a hammer and got it very roughly back in shape. This is going to take a lot of time to smooth out.
Put in about six hours of work today... finished the roof and right rear quarter, finished cleaning the ragtop rails, partially stripped the right front fender, and finally came to agreeable terms with the dozen or so bees that wanted to hang out and watch what I was doing.
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mukluk Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2012 Posts: 7028 Location: Clyde, TX
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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 5:00 pm Post subject: |
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Another minor victory today, got the new turn signal switch installed and connected, also got the tail lights mounted up and working. One step at a time...
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flyboat Samba Member
Joined: April 21, 2010 Posts: 2752 Location: Bath NC
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Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2012 3:32 pm Post subject: |
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Nice Project
Google Wray Scheln. He is a metal worker that sells a dvd on metal repair not using body filler. He also sells the shrinking disc. His disc and dvd will help you put that fender back good as new. It worth a look. I bought it and it was well worth the cash You can find his stuff on ebay
Here is a youtube of how the disc can work. Its not Schelns video but it'll give you an idea. If you already know all this, then forgive this post.
cheers
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8cruauERmI _________________ 79 super Vert
62 Ragtop Bug
66 tintop Westy
Porsche 914
09 Z06 Vette track car |
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bobnorman Samba Newfoundlander
Joined: August 09, 2010 Posts: 1389 Location: Newfoundland
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mukluk Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2012 Posts: 7028 Location: Clyde, TX
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Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 6:20 pm Post subject: |
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I appreciate the help with body work tips, I've never really been any good at it in my opinion but I do what I can.
In other news, I'm getting closer to having the bug road worthy. My original plan was to install dual filament sockets and bulbs up in the headlight buckets for combo running lights and turn signals, I've since taken a slightly different tack and ended up rewiring things utilizing some DPDT relays in addition to the six wire turn signal switch.... so now I have tail/turn/brake lights with the snowflake tail lights as well as flashing semaphores . As an added bonus, I still have the option of adding a seperate switch to have four-way emergency flashers if I choose to do so.
Next on the list, fix the horn, pull the engine to clean/repaint, replace the exhaust, replace a leaky rear wheel cylinder, install new rear axle seals... |
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gitchesum Samba Member
Joined: November 10, 2003 Posts: 513 Location: North Cali
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Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 6:48 pm Post subject: |
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Flashing semaphores....you mean they stay up and flash while up ? Like a turn signal ? _________________ Looking for SP Kadron manifolds...please !!
57 SC
61 rag w/356B brakes
61 356B
Honda XLR 250, 69 Z50, Yamaha 100 Enduro...and others.
GMC SLT 4x4 Dmax
Kubota L3710, not enuf attachments.
And various VW's that come and go... |
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mukluk Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2012 Posts: 7028 Location: Clyde, TX
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Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 7:25 pm Post subject: |
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gitchesum wrote: |
Flashing semaphores....you mean they stay up and flash while up ? Like a turn signal ? |
Yes, exactly like that. I desoldered the semaphore's bulb wire from the power wire/lower terminal and resoldered it to the upper terminal; at the other end I have the semaphore receiving switched power from the turn signal switch while the blue signal/bulb wire is attached to a flasher relay which gets its power from the turn signal switch as well... end result is when you flip the turn signal switch the semaphore arm gets solid power to extend while the bulb gets cycling on/off power from the flasher. |
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DKO Samba Member
Joined: October 10, 2008 Posts: 54 Location: Indiana
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Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 7:38 pm Post subject: |
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Nice work! Keep at it. |
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62 Dave Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2012 Posts: 124 Location: SoCal
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Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 8:01 pm Post subject: |
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Nice project and outstanding work so far! You've come a long ways since the first pics you posted. Those semaphores are awesome. _________________ Dave
62 Type 1 sunroof
64 Ghia hardtop
69 Type 1, 68 Type 1, 73 914 2.0, 76 911S Targa....all gone but not forgotten |
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zoofish Samba Member
Joined: March 20, 2010 Posts: 74 Location: Sydney, Australia
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Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 5:37 pm Post subject: |
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Hi and Welcome!
I am loving your build/resurrection thread already. Stick with it because it is all worth it to bring another '60 Ragtop back to the street. 3 years to get mine back on the road, so hopefully it inspires you to keep on
Before:
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mukluk Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2012 Posts: 7028 Location: Clyde, TX
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 5:32 pm Post subject: |
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New update for anybody that might be following along...
Pulled the fuel tank out and finally managed to remove what appeared to be a large filthy lump of JB weld with a fuel line bolted to the bottom, after some exploratory surgery with a screwdriver I managed to find the fuel tap inside said lump. Got the tap disassembled and cleaned up, replaced both pickup tubes, and rebuilt the tap with a kit from Wolfsburg West.
Moved on to the fuel tank, other than a buildup of what can only be described as mud inside, it was actually pretty clean. Of course then I discovered that at some time previously, the outside of the upper half had been painted over after building up a rather healthy layer of surface rust... a few hours of stripping, sanding, and priming/painting later, the tank is about ready to go back in.
And last up, I still have a hole in my roof... but I can close it now
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mukluk Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2012 Posts: 7028 Location: Clyde, TX
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Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 6:25 pm Post subject: |
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Finished cleaning and painting the engine, got it reinstalled along with new soft fuel lines and a few other items. Amazing how quiet it is now with a stock exhaust versus the four-tip setup that was on previously.
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Eric&Barb Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004 Posts: 24765 Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 7:24 pm Post subject: |
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Get some hose clamps on both ends of both fresh air tubes. Otherwise when they pop off the head on that side can fry. _________________ In Stereo, Where Available! |
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gondiwindi Samba Member
Joined: December 12, 2006 Posts: 1195 Location: Tampa Bay, FL
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Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 7:36 pm Post subject: |
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A quick question. Is the etch primer from a rattle can? Are you using a grit to sand it down after spraying? I am doing some bodywork on my '63 ragtop and I am looking for a good pre-paint primer. |
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mukluk Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2012 Posts: 7028 Location: Clyde, TX
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Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 1:32 am Post subject: |
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gondiwindi wrote: |
A quick question. Is the etch primer from a rattle can? Are you using a grit to sand it down after spraying? I am doing some bodywork on my '63 ragtop and I am looking for a good pre-paint primer. |
Yep, it's a rattle can primer from Duplicolour. I'm not sanding it down after spraying just yet, my focus at the moment is stripping the old paint, taking care of rust, and making the car roadworthy. |
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gondiwindi Samba Member
Joined: December 12, 2006 Posts: 1195 Location: Tampa Bay, FL
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Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 6:26 pm Post subject: |
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Are you taking it all down to bare metal before applying the etch primer?
Nice job by the way! |
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mukluk Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2012 Posts: 7028 Location: Clyde, TX
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Posted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 4:18 am Post subject: |
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Roger that, stripping it down to bare metal before cleaning/degreasing then spraying on the etch primer.
Had a pretty good high point on the rebuild yesterday, after sorting the brakes out I took it for a short two mile drive... couldn't wipe the grin off my face for over an hour after that |
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mukluk Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2012 Posts: 7028 Location: Clyde, TX
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Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 10:47 am Post subject: |
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Knocked out the first real road test today, brakes need readdressed since they pull slightly to the right and the right valve cover is seeping a bit of oil, other than that things went rather well.
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mukluk Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2012 Posts: 7028 Location: Clyde, TX
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Posted: Sat Feb 23, 2013 6:46 pm Post subject: |
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Since the first test drive I've done:
- master cylinder
- hard & soft brake lines
- strip & prime left front fender
- new Boge shocks all around
- shift lock
- installed driver side seat belt
As of right now it's just about ready for an inspection, new tires are standing by in the garage waiting on an adapter so I can get them mounted and balanced. Other than that, just waiting on the weather to warm up so I can pick back up on the body work.
I did take it for a bit of a drive today though, keep the interest up and all you know.
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Rome Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2004 Posts: 9654 Location: Pearl River, NY
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Posted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 11:27 am Post subject: |
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Way to go with the '60 running and driving!
Did you install the engine with the heater boxes on? If so, did you encounter clearance problems with the top of the HB with the lower edge of the engine firewall?
When my '60 was finally running (in 1975!) and registered, almost each major body part was a different color. That fall it was painted a 1973 SuperBeetle yellow. Are you planning to ever paint yours?
Now that you have it running, what's the next bit of work on it (after the tires)? |
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