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ATV/Motorcycle a Jack for engine removal question
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TheDon
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 16, 2015 6:06 pm    Post subject: ATV/Motorcycle a Jack for engine removal question Reply with quote

So I bought the harbor freight atv jack to install my engine and I ran into a snag. The exhaust tips catch on the safety catch and with them removed the exhaust nubs now still sometimes catch.

I need to make a patented grandpa pete engine removal adapter plate for my jack.

I noticed if I remove the bar that joins the catches it works ok


Anyone here have any mods they did to the harbor freight jack so it works better? The other jacks I've seen here have a narrower lift mechanism/safety is inside the rails
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 16, 2015 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

remove the exhaust? mine works fine I did make 2 diferent plates for it so the engine sits good and wont fall offt. the other is for pulling the motor and trans at the same time. it's longer. I also have a transmission jack, but havent used it on vw. the angle adjustment might be easyer but the 4 wheeler jack is handy.
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Cusser
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2015 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a cheap Harbor Freight transmission jack, goes higher than my full-sized floor jack. So I may try that instead of the floor jack next time I do a pull.
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swavananda
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2015 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not that this will help you at all , but to others thinking about getting a ATV jack.The yellow craftsman version is way better than standard style. It costs a bit more but is way more practical.As well as great for dropping engines, you can lift the car front from the beam and the rear from the frame horns,(same width apart!) and folds flat for better storage.HF now makes a version as well, But this jack is one thing in along time craftsman got right.


http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-professional-15...0950191000
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TheDon
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2015 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cusser wrote:
I have a cheap Harbor Freight transmission jack, goes higher than my full-sized floor jack. So I may try that instead of the floor jack next time I do a pull.


I have the same jack and when it's at it's lowest position the car can't get high enough for me to roll the engine out.
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TheDon
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2015 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

swavananda wrote:
Not that this will help you at all , but to others thinking about getting a ATV jack.The yellow craftsman version is way better than standard style. It costs a bit more but is way more practical.As well as great for dropping engines, you can lift the car front from the beam and the rear from the frame horns,(same width apart!) and folds flat for better storage.HF now makes a version as well, But this jack is one thing in along time craftsman got right.


http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-professional-15...0950191000


I considered it but I got the $70 version which is what I've seen others get. What I might do is just use this one then sell it and save up for the aluminum version because that one I can Hang from my wall if I mount a hanger for it with some toggle bolts.
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2015 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I added some 5"or 6" swivel wheels to mine(hf 4whr/quad std). works great.
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TheDon
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm running into an issue of the generator getting stuck as I raise it. I saw some videos of people using floor jacks and it seems tilting it forward is key while lifting.
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VW_Buggsy
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2015 6:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the same issue with my atv/cycle jack, a standard black and red craftsman model. I simply removed the entire safety catch mechanism. I wasn't using it as designed anyway and for the motor work I just didn't see it as required. This has actually made it easier to use because I don't have the catch falling into place at inopportune times. Without the catch, it seems to stay at the level I put it anyway.

While I do have an engine stand, most of the time I find myself working on the engine just on this jack. It's stable, and when jacked up puts the motor at a good (& variable) height to work on it from a seated position in a folding chair.

The yella one y'all posted looks better, but I got mine before those were available. The one I have works fine for me. I put a square piece of 3/4 plywood across the rails because the two rails didn't fall exactly where I wanted on the motor. Now I also use it as a work platform/step stool sometimes.

I made a 4x4 trolley piece for my normal floor jack for lifting the rear of the car just before the trans front mount, and this gives me just the right amount of lift & clearance (a couple inches) to slide the engine out on the atv jack. Once you do it a few times you'll get the hang of tilting the engine at the right point for the generator to clear the apron.
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2015 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

VW_Buggsy wrote:
I put a square piece of 3/4 plywood across the rails because the two rails didn't fall exactly where I wanted on the motor.


In case you missed it, here is a link to a nice design for that plywood piece:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=516802

I made a similar piece and can't wait to try it out.
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Dr OnHolliday
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2015 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just bought the HF scissors/screw non-hydraulic transmission jack (on purpose, not some over-sight). The 4 wheels are all on swivels.

I'm (obviously) pretty sure it will work great, and no more balancing act on a floor jack
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Last edited by Dr OnHolliday on Wed Oct 21, 2015 8:08 pm; edited 2 times in total
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VW_Buggsy
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2015 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I had not seen that adapter. Looks nice. I had considered making a hole for the oil plate, and I don't mind the idea of putting in the support pads that might support the sump a little more ideally. Though, that would also add height making it hard to get it low enough to slide out under the car. The tilt mechanism seems over doing it to me.

I've actually found the tilt of the trans vs the engine being flat to be helpful. I line up the motor just a tick higher than the trans input shaft, then a good push at the top of the shroud angles the engine a bit and it sides/falls right down onto the input shaft.

Anyway, love the atv jack for this purpose and would happily recommend it to anyone! I love the idea of replacing the straight wheels with swivels, I might have to look into that.
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