Nose Cone Seal replacement

Red Fau Veh · Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 11:10 pm Post subject:

Well I am going to sand the nose cone some more with a 80 grit and than polish it again with the 200. I had a deep gouge and I think alittle more sanding will make up the difference, thanks!

Red Fau Veh · Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 9:49 am Post subject:

I got my new steel ball goody and the fit on the end of the hockey stick is really tight. It won't slide on, it will go on with force but is it supposed to be SO tight? I am not sure I can smack it on the hockey stick when reassembling the nose cone, it will be ver hard to remove if I get it on there I'm certain. Is this a concern and is there a different ball size I need?
_________________
1971 Deluxe Sunroof Bay 1905 stroker, dual idf40's, 74mm Scat forged crank, engle 110 cam. CB 044 heads, AutoCraft rockers, chromoly push rods
1973 Orange transporter stock type 4 with dual 40 Dellortos and Empi single quiet pack
1969 Adventurewagen blue whale Gene Berg 1776 built by Dave Kawell dual 36 DRLA's, Vintage Speed exhaust, Bosch 019 screamer
1961 Swivel Seat camper, L345 grey

bigbore · Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 3:18 pm Post subject:

It should just slide on so you may need to do file work look it over you may have a burr or something on the hockey stick.
_________________
where its cold and snowy

Red Fau Veh · Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 4:40 pm Post subject:

I sanded the hockey stick with wet dry and it made the difference. I have it all back together now with new seals front and rear as well as that bearing retaining plate and the new steel ball. Now I need to fill it with proper lube and that is a concern. GL5 is not available in large bottles here, what oil are you folks using and liking best? Also, what amount should I purchase for a complete fill? Yes I did read the Bently, but I want to hear more.
_________________
1971 Deluxe Sunroof Bay 1905 stroker, dual idf40's, 74mm Scat forged crank, engle 110 cam. CB 044 heads, AutoCraft rockers, chromoly push rods
1973 Orange transporter stock type 4 with dual 40 Dellortos and Empi single quiet pack
1969 Adventurewagen blue whale Gene Berg 1776 built by Dave Kawell dual 36 DRLA's, Vintage Speed exhaust, Bosch 019 screamer
1961 Swivel Seat camper, L345 grey

cdennisg · Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 4:52 pm Post subject:

Gear oil is a very hot topic amongst VW folks. Some say to only use GL4 rated oil, some say GL5 is fine. I have used GL5 from NAPA for years with no issues. I have also used some from a local supplier that is available at our CO-OP.

I cannot imagine that you can't buy a gallon jug of gear oil in Prescott. Keep looking.

As I recall, the tranny takes 2.5-3 quarts to fill. I like to use one of the pumps that fits onto the gallon jug to fill the trans.
_________________
nothing

Red Fau Veh · Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 9:32 pm Post subject:

Well the GL5 at napa here is Sta-Lube and I used to buy it in the big bottle, now all they have is little bottles for over 12 dollars per! I think I need 7 of them lol! GL4 is not available as far a s I know, didn't GL5 encompase that grade like 35 years ago? Laughing

Anyways thanks to everyone here, my trans has never looked better. Very Happy

_________________
1971 Deluxe Sunroof Bay 1905 stroker, dual idf40's, 74mm Scat forged crank, engle 110 cam. CB 044 heads, AutoCraft rockers, chromoly push rods
1973 Orange transporter stock type 4 with dual 40 Dellortos and Empi single quiet pack
1969 Adventurewagen blue whale Gene Berg 1776 built by Dave Kawell dual 36 DRLA's, Vintage Speed exhaust, Bosch 019 screamer
1961 Swivel Seat camper, L345 grey

cdennisg · Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 9:45 pm Post subject:

bigbore · Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 11:51 pm Post subject:

Yep 3 will more then fill it and as for the debate on GL4-GL5 the only place I have been able to find GL4 is a car quest up here in Alaska if you look on the back of the jug most say covers requirements for GL4/GL5 but that isn't good enough for the purist as for me I have ran both with no problems but if I have it at hand I run the GL4.
_________________
where its cold and snowy

Red Fau Veh · Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 12:03 am Post subject:

Yea I am well aware that some transmission oil says that it is good enough for replacing GL5, however ime, that is just not true. The soft metals in transmissions are very sensitive to what oil is used and for certain it matters what you use in these fine machines, I will be very carefull to choose wisely thank you all.
_________________
1971 Deluxe Sunroof Bay 1905 stroker, dual idf40's, 74mm Scat forged crank, engle 110 cam. CB 044 heads, AutoCraft rockers, chromoly push rods
1973 Orange transporter stock type 4 with dual 40 Dellortos and Empi single quiet pack
1969 Adventurewagen blue whale Gene Berg 1776 built by Dave Kawell dual 36 DRLA's, Vintage Speed exhaust, Bosch 019 screamer
1961 Swivel Seat camper, L345 grey

Rippers · Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 9:31 am Post subject:

Just a quick question for when I have my nose cone machined for the wear.
Does just the bearing part need to be flattened or the whole of the mating surface of the nose cone need to match.

cdennisg · Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 9:38 am Post subject:

FNGRUVN · Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 9:54 am Post subject:

cdennisg · Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 10:09 am Post subject:

^^^ Yes, that is the plate. Its purpose is to keep the main shaft bearing from plowing a groove into the nose cone. There are photos earlier in the thread that illustrate this situation.

thanks for that photo.
_________________
nothing

FNGRUVN · Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 10:41 am Post subject:

Tcash · Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 10:43 am Post subject:

SGKent · Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 11:24 am Post subject:

FNGRUVN · Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 11:33 am Post subject:

cdennisg · Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 3:00 pm Post subject:

Not sure why it would be necessary to sand down the surface enough to remove the groove, other than the possibility that it makes room for the plate. As mentioned earlier, it is recommended to remove .045" from the surface to make up for the plate thickness. I did not do that, and mine works fine.
_________________
nothing

busdaddy · Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 3:56 pm Post subject:

I can't imagine much happening if you didn't remove the equivalent thickness, it may prevent the selector rod from fully depressing the reverse light switch and it could cause a corroded area on the hockey stick to ride in the seal causing a leak (if the end of the stick was rough). If the coupler is long it could bottom out on the seal in 1st and 3rd but I seem to recall a pretty subtantial gap there already and .045" wouldn't use it all up.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

Tcash · Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 8:39 pm Post subject:


Hello! Log in or Register \| Help \| Donate \| Buy Shirts	See all banner ads \| Advertise on TheSamba.com

Nose Cone Seal replacement
Page: Previous 1, 2, 3, 4 Next

	Forum Index -> Bay Window Bus	All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time Page: Previous 1, 2, 3, 4 Next
Page 3 of 4