Zac's 2332cc engine build.

[zac_atac44]

Hey Mark thanks for the heads up. I checked that clearance between the rockers and the head studs. They all are closer than normal but still have plenty of room.

Installed pressure plate and clutch today.

[bugguy1967]

I'm guessing that you told CB your deck height, cam, and ccs and they recommended the chamber volume to you then. Correct? Otherwise, you should know your compression before the heads go on.

[zac_atac44]

[bugguy1967]

I don't see where you posted what kind of cam you went with.

I think many would agree that 8.6 is low for most anything besides a W100 cam.

8.6 isn't horribly low, but your engine could be a lot more efficient if the compression was matched to your cam specs, and still run on pump gas.

Since I don't know your cam, I'll list my preferred static settings for the Engle cams I use:

W100 - 8.3-8.6
W110 - 8.8-9.0
W120 - 9.2-9.5
FK8 - 9.4-9.8

[zac_atac44]

https://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=2240

https://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1575

This is the cam and rockers that I purchased.

Do yall think that I should go with the 0.40 head gasket?

[esde]

[zac_atac44]

[bugguy1967]

Looks like you're using a high lift 1:1 cam with 1.3 rockers. Will it work? Sure. How long? Idk.

How much lift at the valve with that combo? Have you figured it out yet?

[zac_atac44]

[bugguy1967]

Sorry. Didn't mean to. I just don't understand how you went about your parts selection. I usually notice that build threads have a lot of comments that steer the builder in the right direction. I can only guess since you haven't been including specs, the members haven't had much to comment on.

I believe you'll be lifting around .560" with that cam and 1.3s. The 2240 is like a 130 with less duration, so it lifts just as high, but up a steeper ramp. It probably makes power to about 6500 RPM. It's a cam that will be harder on the valvetrain for sure. I'd set aside the 1.3s for now and use some 1.1:1s OR swap the cam for a friendlier one that is designed for ratio rockers.

I remember building the same way you're doing. I was in the home stretch and just wanted to close it all up. It never was ideal for me in the end. The best way to build an engine is to have a well thought-out and compatible parts list compiled before any purchasing is done. Have your power goals, RPM goals, and longevity goals all sorted. If you're blending used with new, make sure the new will compliment the old so nothing is choking down anything else.

I can say that you made a great head choice for a 6500 RPM 2332. Not too big or small. Weber 44s or Dell 45s with 38 vents will be just about perfect for this build. If you need help with real German tins or thermostat parts for the engine, hit me up.

[zac_atac44]

What ratio rocker do you recomend me getting to get good performance?

[bugguy1967]

Rockers cost more than a cam. It might be wiser to just choose a 6500 RPM ratio rocker cam.

That cam is meant only for 1.1 rockers. You could use what you have, but may only get 25,000 out of it before headwork is needed.

[vince1]

Throw your gaskets an run .04" deck.
_________________
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Click here for my full pix detailed 2165 engine build with beehive valvetrain.

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[mark tucker]

I would choose another cam. and keep the 1.3 rockers, and change to a .040 head gadget,remove .040 worth of cylinder shims. I run the cb 2250 cam with 1.33 rocker,10.4cr on pump gass, every day well almost, but it's my only car other than race car& unfinished 356. I would shoot for 9.5~10 cr. with less lift on cam. that cam is for 1.1 rockers.

[mark tucker]

my 2332 had the 2250 cam& 1.33 rockers,pulled oh so sweet everywhere [email protected] cr, that cam is now in my 2028(about 3-4 years)not quite the same pull but still hard running. if I was building a 2332 again to be like that one I would use fk8 with 1.4 rocker.a lot less lobe lift+a few degrees more2 or 4 degrees.

[zac_atac44]

Ok lets talk about the performance and reliability trade offs that come with keeping the 1.3:1 rockers or changing my set up to 1:1 rockers. I now understand that my cam is designed for 1:1 rockers. What kind of strain would my valve train undergo if I stayed with my 1.3:1 rockers (Specificly)? I want a good reliable engine that puts out some hefty power without having to rebuild my engnie every weekend. I understand that the rockers are a more expensive buy but I would MUCH rather buy some 1:1 rockers and install them at this point than tear my engine down, unless the 1:1 rockers are going to totally make my engine a pussy.

What about insted of installing 1.3:1 rockers I downsized my rockers to 1.1:1? Same problem? I dont know.

With all that said, I really appreciate all of your input.

[mark tucker]

your throwing away a lot of spring pressure witch is rpm& valve job if they start fluttering/bouncing due to loosing about 100lbs of open pressure and still throwing the lifter& pushrod the same distance.split it & put in another cam with less lobe lift.& I would up the duration to around 256~262 [email protected] use either 1.3 or 1.4 witch ever works with what you want or get. my 2250 cb cam has over 70000 miles with 1.33 ratio rockers. ( around .555 lift) idles smooth& runs great. it runs about the same as the old fk8 I had with this crank/head combo 10 years ago.but thats just butt dyno figures

[zac_atac44]

[mark tucker]

yup it does, your wasting a great upgrade that that cam will never be able to take addvantage of.... a little lower lobe& a little more duration and you will heve a fun ride.and it should be very reliable.

[zac_atac44]

Well, it has been a while since I have posted any progress on my build. Truth is, I have had some set backs (Learning opportunities). First, in a discussion with Mark Tucker I learned that the cam that I had installed was not ideal for my particular build. So, I swapped out my 2240 cam for a 2250. This means that I had to undo all of my hard work and break open my case. It took me a while to do this, I was pretty bummed out about it.
Finally got my case opend back up and started the clean up process. If I can give anyone advice on a sealant not to use it would be HondaBond!!!! Its not that it is a bad sealant its that it is SUPER hard to clean off. It took me forever to get my case cleaned up and back to assembly quality. I am sure that it is a good sealant but it is not worth the trouble to clean up when you break open your case and do some maintenance.
So,I finally got to reassembling my shortblock and began the process of bolting my case back together. Got to torquing the case down and the case halves would not fully go back together.

Later on I learned about shuffle pins. Turns out you dont have to put o-rings on your main studs if you have shuffle pins.
So I had to break open my case again!! This is when I found the o-rings shoved down into the slot where the shuffle pins were supposed to go. No damage done to the case though (Thank goodness).
So, I began the cleanup process again, which was much easier because I used Loctite 518.

So far I am very pleased with the Loctite 518.

Once I got everything cleaned back up I reassembled my short block.

Then sealed everything up.

Then torqued up. Its amazing how easy things went without those o-rings in the way.

Here is where I made some changes to my build for the better.
1. I replaced my oil pump with a full flow oil pump
2. purchased a front main seal installer (worth every penny)
3. set my endplay at 0.006

Much happier with this setup.

Yesterday, I mounted my engine on the transaxle.