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what is the difference?
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schultzy77
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 10:43 am    Post subject: what is the difference? Reply with quote

i am looking to rebuild my 1600dp. i really want to split the cases and install a new performance crankshaft and a cam new lifters the whole thing but i just can not find what would work with the 88mm x 69-76mm Hypereutectic Slip-In Piston & Cylinder Set, AA Brand, Type 1. any info will help.. thanks

BTW whats is the difference between these: 88mm x 69-76mm Hypereutectic Slip-In Piston & Cylinder Set, AA Brand, Type 1 and 1003 Big Bore Kits - 87mm High Performance from CB performance? any info will help

thanks first time builder.
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 10:45 am    Post subject: Re: what is the difference? Reply with quote

schultzy77 wrote:
BTW whats is the difference between these: 88mm x 69-76mm Hypereutectic Slip-In Piston & Cylinder Set, AA Brand, Type 1 and 1003 Big Bore Kits - 87mm High Performance from CB performance? any info will help

thanks first time builder.

88mm is 1mm larger than 87mm.
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schultzy77
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

witch is better to buy?
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not a fan of slip in 88s due to the thin walls.
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 11:43 am    Post subject: Re: what is the difference? Reply with quote

schultzy77 wrote:
thanks first time builder.


You need to do some serious reading Shultzy. You can't, or shouldn't, just dive into an engine build. I suggest you take full advantage of the tech articles John has written on his web site AirCooled.Net. There are also tech articles available on CalLook.Com. You should also read Tom Wilson's Rebuilding Your VW Engine book and, of course, you should have the appropriate VW Bentley Manual for your year VW.

If you ask here, without having some background knowledge on VW engine combos, all you'll get are 1,000 different opinions (many good suggestions) but you won't know which way to go. The more you read and learn, the more apparent it will become that there are certain combos which are more common than others. You'll know which ones to avoid and which ones "work".
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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schultzy77
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 2:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have all those books and have been doing alot of reading thanks just wondering if anyone has anymore info on what a good bottom end (cam/crankshaft size rod size) would be for this type of build (if any at all) and also why is there a big price difference in- CB's 87mm"High Performance" Big Bore Kit and aircooled.net 88 kit?
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, if you are building, say, an 1849 - you didn't say what you are considering - then I'd choose a DPR 76mm crank and flywheel, 5.325" H beam rods, a set of machine in 88's or a set of the AC.N turned down 88's. They are machine in 88's with the cylinder bases turned down to fit the 85.5 holes. I'd run an Engle W110 or Web 163 cam.

I wouldn't even consider 87's with the availability of the turned down 88's.
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Darth,

sounds like he wants a "no machine" build so the 88s are no good since you have to machine the heads.
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schultzy77
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 2:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

trying to build a no machine build
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dang, and I had my sledge hammer out getting ready to beat some sense into him. Crying or Very sad

OK, at a list price of $340, the CB 87's sound like they are forged pistons although it doesn't actually say that in the ad. That's about the difference between forged vs. cast or hypereutectic pistons.
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing


Last edited by DarthWeber on Sun Nov 18, 2012 3:00 pm; edited 1 time in total
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schultzy77
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

would like to build as much power/torque with out machining anything any ideas
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NJ John
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

85.5 p/c
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 3:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why are you against machining?
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Turbo

Get a job hippie Laughing
ok, first off you can't re-build an engine without machine work, unless there is nothing major wrong with it to begin with.

When you re-build one of these things USUALLY you re-surface the heads and case anyway, because the cylinders SINK into them. If you get a new case it's a shame to bore it out right off the bat but you know what? the decks aren't even on a lot of them!

SLIP IN CYLINDERS are a waste of time. I'd rather throw a 74 stroke crank in there, you'll FEEL that!
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schultzy77
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

its not me the guy that owns the machine shop around here hates vw's so he charges a lot of money he wants $850 to machine my cases i told him i could buy new ones for that price he said i know
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schultzy77
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 3:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

only rebuilding because i want more power. by the sounds of things i should just buy new cases and build a bigger engine thanks for all the info guys
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modok
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whoa, that is crazy. Check the classifieds, I bet you can buy a decent engine case ready to go for half that.
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ONEBADBUG
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

schultzy77 wrote:
its not me the guy that owns the machine shop around here hates vw's so he charges a lot of money he wants $850 to machine my cases i told him i could buy new ones for that price he said i know

You could ship your parts to a good machine shop. The odds of your old case needing no work is slim.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

IF you are buying new heads, you can order them bored to 92mm, allowing you to use the thick wall 88s usable without machining the case. It all depends on what parts you are going to re-use.
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schultzy77
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks John, looking forward to talking to someone a aircooled.net i will be ordering new heads
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