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911 Carrera RallyCross Project
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BRAID
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Today I did more research, separated the syncros on 1st and 2nd, inspected the rest of the components and drew up a parts list.

The first thing I have decided today is that 1st gear is not worn out. I don't think it is pristine but at $2500 it better fall out of the car and onto the road if it wants replacing. I looked at pictures on line of others and they do look very similar so it stays. Get used to it.

So I managed to disassemble the syncro rings on 1st and 2nd. Those snap rings are pretty tough. You can see the carnage on 1st, 2nd doesn't look too bad.

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...3336nu0mrj

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...5336nu0mrj

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...7336nu0mrj

I'm going to replace everything associated with these two gears, except the gears themselves. I just need a tool to get the dog teeth rings off.


I then looked over the main shaft gears. I've decided to leave these alone as, in my opinion they look pretty good and I've never had any issues shifting 3 to 5,

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...3336nu0mrj

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...4336nu0mrj

So here is the parts list so far. Did I miss anything?

1st gear brake band (37)
1st gear dog teeth
1st gear synchro ring (39)
1st/2nd shift hub (41)
1st/2nd shift sleeve (42)
2nd gear brake band (37)
2nd gear dog teeth
2nd gear synchro ring (39)
accelerator pivot bushing (13)
Main shaft lock nut
Pinion shaft lock nut
Transmission Cover O-Ring
Transmission Gasket Set
dog tooth ring tool

There's also a few engine pieces to replace and add a new cutch cable and helper spring. I still have to decide if I'm upgrading the clutch and whether or not to install an LSD. Running out of time not to mention money.
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BRAID Wheels USA________www.BRAIDUSA.com

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BRAID
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2015 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just dropped over $2000 in exchange for some snazzy transmission parts.



For the first time in months I have a free weekend but alas, parts won't be here till Monday Sad These cars move a lot quicker when they're not in pieces.
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gears
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2015 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are some issues with replacing your own engagement teeth on earlier Porsche gears.

First of all, replacement teeth do not have a fully cut 9* angle, which properly holds the synchro ring to operational dimension. This tiny angle is cut by the factory AFTER the teeth have been installed on the gear, so that this angle is perfectly concentric with the bore of the gear. (The "splines" that are machined on teeth and gear can't be relied upon to install together perfectly concentric.)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Gerry Woods and others have set ups to grind this 9* angle on replaced gear teeth.

Secondly .. after installing the teeth, the factory swages the ends of the splines with a special 50-ton press, to hold those teeth in place. Removing the old teeth will disrupt this factory swaging to some degree, as will installing the new teeth. The result can be teeth that slowly pull off the gear (not always, but quite often). A spot welder with special tip can be utilized to electronically swage every third spline end, to approximate the factory swage. This is not a weld, but rather a subtle deforming of the spline(s). Doing this to only one-third of the splines allows for one or two future rebuilds. This is most critical with 3rd & 4th gears, least critical with 1st and 5th.

If chancing this job without a special spot welder, the best way is to dremel cut the teeth before removal, relieving pressure so that the factory swage isn't flattened out too bad. (The removal tool is still useful for easier removal.) When installing the new teeth, heat them in an oven first (200*F), while sticking the gear itself in the freezer.

Guard Transmission and others have the special spot welder.

The shift sleeve's teeth can be "race prepped", which is merely the removal of all sharp edges. This prolongs smooth operation because it gives displaced material somewhere to go.

Build-up in this one spot on each tooth makes it progressively harder to engage a gear:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Race prepping a sleeve:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


3rd & 4th gears can be expected to begin exhibiting shifting problems in a transaxle that has this many miles on it. You may wish to consider doing 3rd & 4th as well. The real hot ticket is installing 930 engagement teeth and related parts on 915 3rd & 4th gears. This eliminates the threat of popped-off snap ring, not uncommon in raced 915 transaxles.
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'90 Syncro Westy SVX
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BRAID
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Parts have begun to show up Smile

Kitty thought there was a bird in here.

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...7336nu0mrj


Maybe one of these magnets will work in my speedo ring.

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...7336nu0mrj


Still need Dog tooth rings before we can proceed. Due here tomorrow so a busy weekend ahead. I wonder if I can get the transmission all back together before Monday.
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gears
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 3:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul, some of your photos are clickable, but most aren't (so, I for one, can't see them) .. but I have seen your speedo ring photos on the other forum.

Personally, I wouldn't trust the epoxy holding your other magnets in place. Something's caused the epoxy to shrink and pull away from the aluminum.

I don't recall which Porsche speedo ring I photographed, but as you can see, Porsche seems to think the polarity is important, as they've marked which way to place them.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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9.36 @ 146 in '86 Hot & Sticky
'90 Syncro Westy SVX
'87 Syncro GL 2.5
https://guardtransaxle.com
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BRAID
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Removed the dog tooth rings from first and second with the Porsche took. Started to clean parts and reassemble the pinion shaft.

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...A336nu0mrj

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...2336nu0mrj

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...4336nu0mrj


Hope to have the box back together tomorrow.
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BRAID
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the new dogs pressed on at Auto Europe.

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...7336nu0mrj

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...6336nu0mrj

Beginning to look like a gearbox again.

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...A336nu0mrj

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...B336nu0mrj

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...2336nu0mrj

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...3336nu0mrj

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...4336nu0mrj
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BRAID
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it's safe to say this is now a gear box again.

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...2336nu0mrj

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...3336nu0mrj

I even put new bushings in the throttle link rod thingy.
http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...4336nu0mrj


Now I just need the new clutch kit to arrive.
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BRAID
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 5:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I picked up some Castrol transmission oil. Thought we'd give it a try.

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...8336nu0mrj


and the new clutch arrived from Pelican.

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...9336nu0mrj

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...A336nu0mrj


No, we didn't forget to install the ring gear.

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...B336nu0mrj


Offered it up to the engine which accepted it graciously.

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...2336nu0mrj


And slapped it all back in the car.

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...3336nu0mrj


I hope to drive it home tonight Smile
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BRAID
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 5:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And after I installed this new cutch spring I drove it home Smile

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...A336nu0mrj

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...B336nu0mrj

Transmission seemed to work fine. Clutch still needs adjusting though. Blows my mind that I can single handedly put back the engine and transmission but it needs two people to adjust the clutch! The speedo doesn't work, probably because I forgot to connect the wires in the transmission tunnel; and the oil gauge is pegged at 5 despite a new sender. Should all be easy fixes. Think I'll drag it up to the Sno*Drift Rally tomorrow.
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BRAID
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 16, 2015 1:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Was going to update then got bombarded with wheel sales. I bet you're all holding your breath right? Well, I did drive it home that night and I did take it to Sno*Drift. We decided though not to run it as green light as we didn't feel we'd put enough miles on it to risk it. Well, we have now! The car ran like a champ and was a huge hit where ever it went. People were gathering round it like flies round sh...well, you get the picture. Speaking of which, here's a few I found on Facebook, mostly.

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...A336nu0mrj

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...3336nu0mrj

Love this one
http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...4336nu0mrj

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...4336nu0mrj


Not sure what's next for the car. maybe some ice racing.
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BRAID
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2015 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just installed the first production 17" BRAID classic wheels on our RallyCross car. 17x8 and 17x9 with 225 and 255 BFG Rivals.

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...%3A9ot1lsi

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...3cg5ot1lsi

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...3d7got1lsi

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...3B99ot1lsi
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BRAID
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2015 1:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are a few iPhone snaps I took during a recent photo shoot in Detroit. Proper pictures to follow. Yes, 17" replica wheels!

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...A6d3ot1lsi

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...44e7ot1lsi

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...B877ot1lsi

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...84fdot1lsi

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...e76eot1lsi

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...956eot1lsi

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...A26eot1lsi

More here: http://www2.snapfish.com/snapfish/fe/c=snapfish/l=...s%22%7D%7D
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BRAID
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 11:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

While the cars racing career is on hold we got it some new numbers to wear so it can help promote the new 17" BZ wheels.

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...A746ot1lsi



They also fit on the RALIVAN quite nicely

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...5gg3ot1lsi
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BRAID
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2015 4:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No exciting modifications or racing exploits to report sorry. The wheel business is keeping me close to my desk. We did get chance to take the car to a German car show recently in Frankenmuth, Michigan called Northernworthersee and won BEST PORSCHE! Our friend Tim's Group B Audi Quattro won BEST EVERYTHING ELSE including BEST OF SHOW. The event was very well attended and included some interesting German specimens along with the usual mix of lowered Golfs and slammed Audis. Here are some pictures and a video at the end.

http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0746/2755/files/1...2375452220
http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0746/2755/files/1...2375452220

http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0746/2755/files/1...2375452220
http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0746/2755/files/1...2375452220

http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0746/2755/files/1...2375452220

https://scontent-sjc2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfl1/...e=567AF400


Link

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BRAID
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Because it's only 70f out we decided it was time for winter tires LOL

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...%3A9ot1lsi

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...he39ot1lsi

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...4ef8ot1lsi

During the process we discovered this rather worrying damp patch. Could it be the flexible line? Found out one of the mounts is broken too. How much trouble are we in?

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...3Be7ot1lsi

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...he9dot1lsi
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So to troubleshoot the damp patch we cleaned up the area as best we could. It's not very accessible on the front side and our UR Quattro has squatters rights on the hoist till it's done but we did our best with a floor jack and a flashlight. While doing this we discovered that the outer line was loose where it connects to the oil cooler. We, of course, tightened it up but, not wanting to jump to conclusions and looking for an excuse to test drive the car took it to visit Oakland University's Formula SAE team as they need some wheels for next year's car.

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...%3Bcot1lsi

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...g84eot1lsi

During the "test drive" the oil never got hot enough to open the thermostat to the front oil cooler so that didn't tell us much. We had to let it idle in the showroom for ten minutes more to open it up but we were still not sure if we still have a leak or not. The suspect line is still soaked with oil so we can't tell if it is getting more soaked and the front of the cooler is still caked in dirt and oil and we can't see it. The only hint of a leak was from around the ferrules at each end of the suspect line but we think that was brake cleaner boiling off as oil would just seep and this was bubbling.

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...6245ot1lsi


So what to do?

a) One idea is "nothing". The car is probably not going to get hot enough to open the oil cooler thermostat till next June and we did find a loose connector which is a pretty obvious red flag.
b) Take the oil cooler out, clean up the connectors and replace one or all of the mounts.
c) Same as above but replace the lines too.

For now I think we will go with b) Agreed?
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BRAID
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2015 3:22 pm    Post subject: Re: 911 Carrera RallyCross Project Reply with quote

So we went with b) Take the oil cooler out, clean up the connectors and replace one or all of the mounts.

The lines were a bit tight. Well, one of them was. Had to use a heat wrench on it but it freed up. The bottom mount that wasn't broken broke so we only had to unscrew the top mount then the cooler came out easily. This left us with a damp oil cooler with two broken mounts. The top mount that was was still attached to the cooler refused to budge; the nut was so rusted as to not resemble a nut at all. So then we had three broken mounts to try to remove. Fun!

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...e6f4ot1lsi

The two bottom mounts we drilled out on the drill press. The top mount we hack-sawed off. Then we cleaned out RallyCross debris from between the tubes and we were ready for our new mounts we got from Pelican. Only about $5 each. Some parts for these cars are very inexpensive. Some aren't.

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...3A43ot1lsi

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...i%3Aot1lsi

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...7445ot1lsi


Before re-installing our cooler we wrapped it in cardboard as we wanted to see if it had any effect on oil temperature as we experience what we consider very low oil temperature in the winter. Unfortunately our phone died so we have no pictures. Once the outside temperatures head south our 911 barley gets out of the first notch on the temperature gauge. We were always taught that gauges are designed to read straight up or level when at the ideal temperature or pressure or whatever so you can just glance at them and know everything is OK. So just above that first bar (ours is like on the left) always felt low to us but without numbers on the gauge we never really knew what the temperature was. Then we found this face-plate picture which gave us some clues.

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...4336nu0mrj

So we were getting around 140F on the coldest days in Michigan when it can be -20F outside. That's actually not as bad as we thought. Then we remembered that the engine thermostat is designed to open at around 185F which means that's the operating temperature Porsche expect the engine to stabilize at. If you look on the face-plates that's not that high up. If it can't manage that it opens the external thermostat and sends oil to the front oil cooerl too; the one we just blanked off. A test drive at 50F resulted in our gauge indicating around 180 with the front oil cooler lines still cold, suggesting that the engine oil cooler was doing its job and our attempts to raise the oil temperature by wrapping the front cooler were both unnecessary and futile as it's not even in play.

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...g2ifot1lsi

This temperature was verified by an infra red thermometer aimed at various parts of the engine. However, when it's really cold out the temperature often never even gets out of the first segment so something else must be keeping it cold.

The first winter we ran the car we don't remember it struggling to make heat. This only started the second winter after the engine had been out and a few "while you are in theres" attended to. We always wondered if we'd accidentally improved the cooling while we were in there but recently realized one other thing we had done to the car since the first winter: added a whale tail. It is now our theory that that scoop is a lot more effective at ramming cold air through the deck lid to the fan and is preventing the oil from reaching proper operating temperature during very cold weather. Therefore our next project is to take off the cladding from the front oil cooler and rig up some sort of restrictor for the deck lid and test in lower temperatures that are surely on their way.

Does all this sound plausible?
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BRAID Wheels USA________www.BRAIDUSA.com

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BRAID
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2015 5:15 pm    Post subject: Re: 911 Carrera RallyCross Project Reply with quote

So, the first attempt (after thinking about it) to add some oil temperature in the winter: block off the engine (primary) oil cooler airflow to some degree, after removing the front (secondary) oil cooler cover we made the other day of course. Here's the bottom of the primary oil cooler. Air from the big fan blows down through this and around the cylinders.

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...64hcot1lsi

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...Af66ot1lsi


The piece of card we cut to block off most of that flow:

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...3A87ot1lsi


Installed:

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3E...C245ot1lsi

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...hhdhot1lsi


And the result after 20 minute sprited driving in ~40F outside temperatures:

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...674fot1lsi


Looks like about 170F so not very conclusive but we don't exactly have data on what it normally does when it's 40F outside. At least it didn't overheat. In fact it didn't even open the secondary thermostat.

Next we try it in colder temperatures (excpected over the weekend and/or remove the rear whale tail.
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BRAID
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2015 7:25 pm    Post subject: Re: 911 Carrera RallyCross Project Reply with quote

Went tailless today in an effort to see if the whale tail is contributing to keeping the oil temperatures a bit low in colder weather. It's clear to see how much less restrictive the whale tail and open deck lid combination might be when compared to the deck lid grill.

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...f%3Bot1lsi

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...7f82ot1lsi

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...3f93ot1lsi

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...%3C3ot1lsi

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp93232%3E...Bh3cot1lsi


Now for some cold weather testing just as it's warming up again Sad
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Paul Eddleston

BRAID Wheels USA________www.BRAIDUSA.com

Proud sponsor of PCA and Porsche Parade. See you there.
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