Getting body to fit frame

[gtrplyr]

Finally getting to mount the body for test fit before paint. There was a gap on both sides of just under 1.75" and it took some heat a few big clamps. Weather was nice yesterday so I took advantage of that. My questions, how long should I leave the clamps on so the body stays flat, and is it a good idea to make some plates to cover the lip instead of just bolting it down? I was thinking of a 1.5" plate, full length, with carriage bolts from the bottom with cap (acorn) nuts on the top. Any suggestions? It only took two years, one month and two days to get to this point.

[wythac]

I used some aluminum to make sill plates. I didn't like the wobbly look I see on many body installations where the sill puckers around where the bolts go thru.

[didget69]

My vintage buggy body had warps & twists in it. I did similarly to your method, but also applied heat. As it was Summertime when I was working on the body, I parked the clamped body in the sun & also covered it with thick sheet back plastic - like trashcan liners - and made an 'oven'.

bnc
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I never found the need to impress people with any mechanic certifications, trophies or track wins... unless it was for Mom to post on the refrigerator door.

[didget69]

Will you be installing a rollbar or cage?
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I never found the need to impress people with any mechanic certifications, trophies or track wins... unless it was for Mom to post on the refrigerator door.

[bigfatloser]

I added a plate to mine.

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[jspbtown]

Since you look like you have some fab skills why not make up some plates with either hidden bolts or maybe something counter sunk into the plate itself for a nice smooth look.

Those are the details that can set your buggy build off from the rest of the crowd.

[bigfatloser]

I plan on replacing the standard hex head bolts with button head allen bolts.
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[gtrplyr]

There is a roll bar that attaches into the upright tubes at the front. You can see the bolts sticking into the nuts welded at the top of the tubes. Not very good pictures, sorry. The rear of the roll bar has plates that bolt thru the fiberglass and then thru the frame. In one of the pictures you can see a torpedo heater used to warm the 'glass a bit. I got it up to about 120 degrees without any adverse effects. I was mainly concerned about the time-frame of leaving it clamped so it doesn't try to resort back to its original shape. I appreciate all the info, you guys are great.