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To much bend in the Bowden tube?
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streetbuggy8804
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 8:54 am    Post subject: To much bend in the Bowden tube? Reply with quote

Is it possible to have too much bend in the Bowden tube? Got the shorter from CMA and installed it. Have pressure but tried to adjust out the clutch last night while the motor was running. It's currently at the point where the clutch lever arm in no longer straight up and down but it is still not disengaging. I'm thinking the Bowden tube has a large degree of bend in it. Could this at least be part of my problem?
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jhoefer
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 9:37 am    Post subject: Re: To much bend in the Biden tube? Reply with quote

streetbuggy8804 wrote:
Is it possible to have too much bend in the Bowden tube? Got the shorter from CMA and installed it. Have pressure but tried to adjust out the clutch last night while the motor was running. It's currently at the point where the clutch lever arm in no longer straight up and down but it is still not disengaging. I'm thinking the Bowden tube has a large degree of bend in it. Could this at least be part of my problem?


Yes, having too much bend in the bowden tube effectively reduces the clutch cable length that protrudes past the transmission bracket. But too much bend itself won't hurt anything if you have a cable long enough to compensate.

My guess is if your having such a problem, either the bowden tube isn't correct for the car/trans (too long) and I'm assuming you don't have spacers installed on the bowden tube or your clutch cable length is wrong for your chassis (too short). This assumes the cable isn't damaged and hanging up somewhere along the way.

Any pics?
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streetbuggy8804
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 10:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will have to take some pics of the bowden tube. The difference now is that I went from a bug tranny to a bus tranny to accommodate my ej25. I'm thinking that maybe there is a shorter Bowden tube used for a bus tranny. The bend to me look a little extreme. I have enough adjustment in the cma shortner deal to be alright though. At least I think so.
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thinking that the bow is suppsed to be around 1/2". I had an issue with the current prioject where the bowden tube didnt fit through the retainer at the tranny far enough (couldnt even get the boot on). Cable seemed too short and the clutch efforts was high. Replaced the tube and all is right with the world. Something that you probably already know, but I didnt until a few months ago was to have the cable inside the tube before you install it to prevent kinking the tube.
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streetbuggy8804
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

well I am hoping that is the fix as that is a simple one. Here is a pic of the adjuster (I have this one on hand). I know the pic is kind of cocked, but you can see that the arm is not in a verticle position and still not engaging.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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jspbtown
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't see a bowden tube. Am I missing something?
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streetbuggy8804
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah that's what I said in my earlier post. I don't have a boden tube pic on hand. All I had was the clutch cable to pic which shows the semi moved position of the clutch. Bowden tube pic will be taken tonight when I get home from work.
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MOON BUGGY
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 12:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not sure what you have there but it doesn't look right.
Here is What a bowden tube should look like.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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streetbuggy8804
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seems to be a lot of "skimmers" here. That is not a pic of my Bowden tube. It's a pic showing the position of my clutch lever. The stain steel braided line is my throttle cable guide tube.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

streetbuggy8804 wrote:
well I am hoping that is the fix as that is a simple one. Here is a pic of the adjuster (I have this one on hand). I know the pic is kind of cocked, but you can see that the arm is not in a verticle position and still not engaging.


Maybe I misinterpreted your original post. Is the problem that you press on the clutch pedal but the engine still turns the transmission or that you release the clutch pedal but the engine will not turn the transmission?
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jhoefer wrote:
streetbuggy8804 wrote:
well I am hoping that is the fix as that is a simple one. Here is a pic of the adjuster (I have this one on hand). I know the pic is kind of cocked, but you can see that the arm is not in a verticle position and still not engaging.


Maybe I misinterpreted your original post. Is the problem that you press on the clutch pedal but the engine still turns the transmission or that you release the clutch pedal but the engine will not turn the transmission?


I too am confused. Please define the problem.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

andk5591 wrote:
Thinking that the bow is suppsed to be around 1/2".


The bend/deflection should be 1" to 1 3/4" (25 - 45mm) from an imaginary straight line.

The clutch lever pulled back and the clutch not engaging looks like its operating normally. If you release the lever and the clutch doesn't engage, then you have a problem


Last edited by BL3Manx on Thu Jan 24, 2013 3:25 pm; edited 1 time in total
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streetbuggy8804
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Engine turns. I push clutch in. Can not put in gear. Motor is not running. No problem putting in gear. Clutch lever at tranny is already adjusted to the point that it is not completely vertice when clutch is not depressed (pic.). Do not currently have a pic of the Bowden tub but the bend it more than what looks normal. I will try and mess with the Bowden tube tonight.
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doesn't sound like a Bowden tube problem. If the clutch isn't disengaging when you pull back the lever, you might have the wrong throwout bearing for your pressure plate, or your throwout bearing may have come off the throwout fork.

Your clutch guide tube may have also broke free in the tunnel. If its not securely mounted, it wil just flex around and not disengage the clutch.


Last edited by BL3Manx on Thu Jan 24, 2013 3:32 pm; edited 1 time in total
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Engine turns. I push clutch in. Can not put in gear. Motor is not running. No problem putting in gear.


You can shift into all of the gears with the shifter when the engine is off and the peddle released?

Once you press the peddle, with engine off, you can no longer shift into any gear with the shifter?

Is the what you are describing?


Do not worry about the lever arm not being verticle. Sometimes depending on combination it is not verticle.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No I can shift into gear with engine off and clutch depressed. Once engine runs and clutch pedal is depressed I can not shift into gear. In addition if I am trying to shift into first for example and I'm pressing the shifter twords that gear, with the clutch pedal depressed ( and engine running), the car starts to creep forward as if it was in gear and I was riding the point between letting off the clutch and pushing on the gas. Hope this makes sense. Clearly the clutch is not fully disengaging the spinning motor. Also just to clarify. I am clearly ( by feel) not in the gear.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 3:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What year 3 rib trans did you install? Did you do anything to the input shaft on the 3 rib?
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 3:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK - So starting at the top. How much free play in your clutch pedal before you start to feel resistance? How far from the firewall is the top of the clutch pedal?

You can have your pedal set up so there is not enough travel. You can also have too long (or a stretched) clutch cable if you cant adjust it far enough.

Is this new or you are just getting things put together. Its important to get this right - obviously you dont want to be grinding gears, but also you dont want to kill your throwout bearing.
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Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
"John's car" 64 VW woodie - The first ever
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Cindy's daily driver.
Max - 73 standard Beetle hearse project - For sale
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another thing to check is that the clutch disk can move fully in and out freely on the splines of the trans input shaft. If it binds it can prevent the clutch from releasing. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=476770

Or the pilot bearing in the gland nut hasn't been lubed properly and siezed up making the input shaft turn regardless of what you do with the clutch.

Could also be from someone putting on a clutch release arm that is too long.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is not a VW engine. What adapter plate, pressure plate and clutch disc are you running? Did you buy it all together in a kit form or piece it together?

You simply may be so far apart on the TO Bearing and the pressure plate that it is not depressing the pressure plate enough to free the disc.
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Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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