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obfuscurity
Samba Member
Joined: December 01, 2012
Posts: 320
Location: Westminster, MD, USA
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 Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2012 1:27 pm Post subject: |
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| Aynthm wrote: |
| I've got a few hundred photos of my '66 restoration on the two links below. Might give you some ideas. You got a nice looking car there. |
Awesome pics! Did you custom fabricate that speaker enclosure under the dash? |
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Aynthm
Samba Member
Joined: July 07, 2010
Posts: 1315
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
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| Posted: Sun Dec 23, 2012 5:00 am Post subject: |
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| Yeah, easy, 4" elbows from HDepot, some brackets and foam inside center. |
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obfuscurity
Samba Member
Joined: December 01, 2012
Posts: 320
Location: Westminster, MD, USA
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| Posted: Sun Dec 23, 2012 3:37 pm Post subject: |
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Today was probably our last "warm" day of the winter so we took advantage of the weather and gave the bug her (we've decided her name is Ramona) a bath. I was really hoping to get the fuel line fixed so I could just drive her into the driveway but I knew time was short so we pushed her back and forth. Now that she's pretty clean I plan to take the buffing compound to try and clean off some of the oxidation.
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Aynthm
Samba Member
Joined: July 07, 2010
Posts: 1315
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
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| Posted: Sun Dec 23, 2012 4:24 pm Post subject: |
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| Stock height, love it. |
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jays58s
Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2004
Posts: 2133
Location: Nor-Cal
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| Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 1:04 am Post subject: |
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| obfuscurity wrote: |
| 61SNRF wrote: |
The generic replacement TMI panels like mine (I'm okay with that) do not look anything like them, and the original chrome trim will not fit right either...
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Did you see these repro door panels from WCC? They're not cheap ($450) but they look like the real deal.
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The WCC panels and seat covers aren't even close to the interior of a '66 and not worth the $. I have a '66 as well and mine still has the original interior that I'm going to try and save. I think there is a guy in AUS that makes the exact style of heat seamed interior panels that '66's are supposed to have, I'll see if I can dig up the info on here or maybe someone else can chime in. As far as the steering wheel, I've only seen the half moon style horn rings so the one you have is most likely a replacement horn ring from a 64-65 since that's what they used and then they went back to the other style in '66. I'd try to keep your car as original as possible, that thing is awesome just as it is! |
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obfuscurity
Samba Member
Joined: December 01, 2012
Posts: 320
Location: Westminster, MD, USA
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| Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 6:05 am Post subject: |
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| jays58s wrote: |
| The WCC panels and seat covers aren't even close to the interior of a '66 and not worth the $. I have a '66 as well and mine still has the original interior that I'm going to try and save. I think there is a guy in AUS that makes the exact style of heat seamed interior panels that '66's are supposed to have, I'll see if I can dig up the info on here or maybe someone else can chime in. As far as the steering wheel, I've only seen the half moon style horn rings so the one you have is most likely a replacement horn ring from a 64-65 since that's what they used and then they went back to the other style in '66. I'd try to keep your car as original as possible, that thing is awesome just as it is! |
The horn ring was originally a half-moon that broke and was filed back to look like a 65 straight line version. I just replaced it last night with a new one from WW.
_________________
66 Sedan L456 "Ramona" |
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jays58s
Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2004
Posts: 2133
Location: Nor-Cal
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| Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 10:37 am Post subject: |
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| obfuscurity wrote: |
| jays58s wrote: |
| The WCC panels and seat covers aren't even close to the interior of a '66 and not worth the $. I have a '66 as well and mine still has the original interior that I'm going to try and save. I think there is a guy in AUS that makes the exact style of heat seamed interior panels that '66's are supposed to have, I'll see if I can dig up the info on here or maybe someone else can chime in. As far as the steering wheel, I've only seen the half moon style horn rings so the one you have is most likely a replacement horn ring from a 64-65 since that's what they used and then they went back to the other style in '66. I'd try to keep your car as original as possible, that thing is awesome just as it is! |
The horn ring was originally a half-moon that broke and was filed back to look like a 65 straight line version. I just replaced it last night with a new one from WW. |
Nice! I need to find a whole new wheel, the original one that was in my current '66 went into my last '66 that got sold. lol |
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drscope
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 15273
Location: Baltimore, Maryland USA
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| Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 1:37 pm Post subject: |
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Years ago we built a race car out of a chalky red junk yard car. SCCA had these crazy rules that the cars had to be pretty.
We used a product called Nu Finish. In an orange bottle. They had TV commercials at the time that said they ran this junk yard car through 100 car washes and it still came out shiney.
We used that on that faded chalky red car and it came out looking brand new! We raced that car for about 4 years until one of the drivers who was a painter painted it yellow. But after that first application of Nu Finish, it looked great and stayed that way!
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obfuscurity
Samba Member
Joined: December 01, 2012
Posts: 320
Location: Westminster, MD, USA
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| Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 2:48 pm Post subject: |
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| drscope wrote: |
Years ago we built a race car out of a chalky red junk yard car. SCCA had these crazy rules that the cars had to be pretty.
We used a product called Nu Finish. In an orange bottle. They had TV commercials at the time that said they ran this junk yard car through 100 car washes and it still came out shiney.
We used that on that faded chalky red car and it came out looking brand new! We raced that car for about 4 years until one of the drivers who was a painter painted it yellow. But after that first application of Nu Finish, it looked great and stayed that way! |
I remember those ads. They still carry it at the store but I went ahead and grabbed rubbing compound, polishing compound, and wax. I don't know if it'll make much of a difference but I thought this would be the best start. Now if only it would warm up enough to go work in the garage.
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66 Sedan L456 "Ramona" |
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dcheek
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007
Posts: 511
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| Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 4:42 pm Post subject: |
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Congrats on your selection of the 1966 Beetle. While the you didn't get the '64, there are plenty of "unique" features for the '66. To name just a few:
- one year only 1300 engine
- one year only seat vinyl pattern- waffle/smooth
- slotted wheels for brake cooling
- first year ball joint front end
- last year 6 volt
- first year flat hubcaps with pressure fit (no clips)
- engine displacement "1300" on engine lid
For more information, there is a dedicated web site for the 66 Beetle, aptly called www.1966vwbeetle.com.
Since it sounds like you are going to drive your car regularly, I would suggest, as others have, to replace all the soft fuel lines on the car. Use the german braided hoses, as they fit the best and give it the original look. Also, the filter issue can't be stressed enough; move it out of the engine compartment.
As far as brakes, my adage is, "It is more important to be able to stop than to go". With that said, with any new purchase of an old car I usually replace the entire brake system. With a Beetle, this is relatively cheap. At a bare minimum you should replace all the flexible brake hoses, wheel cylinders and shoes. This will give you a base line as to how the car will stop with everything new. Also, check the master cylinder for leaks and change if necessary. The last thing you want to happen is fix all the cosmetic issues then have a brake failure ruin your baby.
I'm also glad to hear you want to keep it stock. I would recommend trying to repair the interior rather than replace with aftermarket pieces. Nothing in the aftermarket will look/feel or smell like the original. Have an auto upholsterer remove the seat covers, re-sew the seams and put back on the frames using new original seat pads from Wolfsburg West. DO NOT USE FOAM RUBBER! They will look too puffy. Make sure you tell the upholsterer that the seat ares supposed to look flat. They only guy I know that does them exactly right (I've seen them in person) is Lenny Copp in CA. Short of sending them to him, you have to explain to who every is doing the work about how they should look.
If the vinyl will not clean up, you have an option of dyeing with a product called SURFLEX. It can be sprayed or brushed on and they can match exactly the color or your interior. All you do is send a sample and they mix the product to match. I know what you're thinking "Brush/Spray on paint for vinyl?" I'm telling you, you will not believe the results! I've seen fellow members of the Porsche Club "paint" whole interiors from blue to black with astounding results. I also have seen a white interior on an old 914 look like it was brand new. It works! Just Google the company name, COLOR PLUS. for more information.
I own a bone stock, original 41,000 mile '66. I would be happy to help you with any questions you have getting your car back on the road. Keep us posted.
Dave
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1961 Bug
1965 Bug
1966 Sunroof Bug
1966 Westy
1976 914 2.0
1989 911 Carrera
1981 Diesel Rabbit Pick Up
1982 Diesel Vanagon
2014 Golf (last year German mfr for NA)
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obfuscurity
Samba Member
Joined: December 01, 2012
Posts: 320
Location: Westminster, MD, USA
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| Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 5:53 pm Post subject: |
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| dcheek wrote: |
Congrats on your selection of the 1966 Beetle. While the you didn't get the '64, there are plenty of "unique" features for the '66. To name just a few:
- one year only 1300 engine
- one year only seat vinyl pattern- waffle/smooth
- slotted wheels for brake cooling
- first year ball joint front end
- last year 6 volt
- first year flat hubcaps with pressure fit (no clips)
- engine displacement "1300" on engine lid |
Agreed, I'm happy with the 66 model year. Some of the one-year stuff makes it a little more challenging, but it seems to be a relatively popular year. I think the emergency flasher relay has been the most difficult item to get my hands on so far.
| dcheek wrote: |
| For more information, there is a dedicated web site for the 66 Beetle, aptly called www.1966vwbeetle.com. |
I have an account over there as well. Good resource.
| dcheek wrote: |
| Since it sounds like you are going to drive your car regularly, I would suggest, as others have, to replace all the soft fuel lines on the car. Use the german braided hoses, as they fit the best and give it the original look. Also, the filter issue can't be stressed enough; move it out of the engine compartment. |
Getting the fuel line replaced has been a priority for me. Unfortunately the last couple weeks have brought on really cold temps out here in Maryland. I'm looking for one decent (40F+) day to get out and change those lines. I'm not brave (stupid?) enough to try running a space heater in the garage while I'm working on the fuel system.
| dcheek wrote: |
| As far as brakes, my adage is, "It is more important to be able to stop than to go". With that said, with any new purchase of an old car I usually replace the entire brake system. With a Beetle, this is relatively cheap. At a bare minimum you should replace all the flexible brake hoses, wheel cylinders and shoes. This will give you a base line as to how the car will stop with everything new. Also, check the master cylinder for leaks and change if necessary. The last thing you want to happen is fix all the cosmetic issues then have a brake failure ruin your baby. |
I absolutely concur. However, repairing the fuel line has been a priority over brakes for one practical reason; I'd like to be able to idle the car weekly for winterization's sake.
| dcheek wrote: |
I'm also glad to hear you want to keep it stock. I would recommend trying to repair the interior rather than replace with aftermarket pieces. Nothing in the aftermarket will look/feel or smell like the original. Have an auto upholsterer remove the seat covers, re-sew the seams and put back on the frames using new original seat pads from Wolfsburg West. DO NOT USE FOAM RUBBER! They will look too puffy. Make sure you tell the upholsterer that the seat ares supposed to look flat. They only guy I know that does them exactly right (I've seen them in person) is Lenny Copp in CA. Short of sending them to him, you have to explain to who every is doing the work about how they should look.
If the vinyl will not clean up, you have an option of dyeing with a product called SURFLEX. It can be sprayed or brushed on and they can match exactly the color or your interior. All you do is send a sample and they mix the product to match. I know what you're thinking "Brush/Spray on paint for vinyl?" I'm telling you, you will not believe the results! I've seen fellow members of the Porsche Club "paint" whole interiors from blue to black with astounding results. I also have seen a white interior on an old 914 look like it was brand new. It works! Just Google the company name, COLOR PLUS. for more information. |
I would definitely like to keep the stock interior materials and just have them cleaned up. Thanks for the tip on COLOR PLUS.
| dcheek wrote: |
| I own a bone stock, original 41,000 mile '66. I would be happy to help you with any questions you have getting your car back on the road. Keep us posted. |
Fantastic post, this one's going in my bookmarks. 
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obfuscurity
Samba Member
Joined: December 01, 2012
Posts: 320
Location: Westminster, MD, USA
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| Posted: Mon Dec 31, 2012 9:54 am Post subject: |
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I know I have bigger fish to fry but I couldn't help myself. Ordered Ramona's birth certificate.
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Duder
Samba Member
Joined: July 14, 2009
Posts: 39
Location: Torrance, CA
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| Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 1:34 pm Post subject: |
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Just found your thread and I must say that your '66 is a really impressive survivor. I also have a ruby red '66 but the original interior was gutted long ago, and it has 2 paint jobs over the OE ruby. It's a cliche, but "it's only original once"...and in my opinion your best option is to keep it that way (as much as possible). The paint should come back nicely with a careful rub/buff & wax job. If it buffs through to the primer a bit, it will just add character.
And I second the comments about the interior. It's extremely hard to find decent '66 panels and seat covers. I managed to score a set of useable door cards that looked much worse than yours when I got them. Cleaning with simple green and a soft toothbrush was the first step and made a huge difference. They were rippled and coming unglued from the backing board also, which I fixed with gentle heat from a hair dyer to get the vinyl pliable, then DAP Weldwood contact cement to stick them down again, working out the wrinkles as I went. The drivers door card looks almost new now apart from some minor color fading. I can post up some pics if you're interested.
I am thinking of making some new backing boards to replace the couple that are in sad shape - they have cracks and pulled-out clips. Definitely use a trim popper tool to remove them from the car, with gentle pressure on either side of each clip, working your way around one by one. The boards tear easily. Replacing the plastic sheet moisture barriers is a good idea too. I think you can get the "dum dum" sticky butyl stuff from Eastwood to ensure a good seal.
Have fun with the car!
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-Chris / CFlo / Duder
1966 Beetle | 1973 BMW 2002 | 1975 Volvo 245 | 1981 Volvo 242 | 1993 Miata | 1964 Ford Viccup P71 |
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obfuscurity
Samba Member
Joined: December 01, 2012
Posts: 320
Location: Westminster, MD, USA
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| Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 9:34 pm Post subject: |
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| Rodicus wrote: |
Just found your thread and I must say that your '66 is a really impressive survivor. I also have a ruby red '66 but the original interior was gutted long ago, and it has 2 paint jobs over the OE ruby. It's a cliche, but "it's only original once"...and in my opinion your best option is to keep it that way (as much as possible). The paint should come back nicely with a careful rub/buff & wax job. If it buffs through to the primer a bit, it will just add character.
And I second the comments about the interior. It's extremely hard to find decent '66 panels and seat covers. I managed to score a set of useable door cards that looked much worse than yours when I got them. Cleaning with simple green and a soft toothbrush was the first step and made a huge difference. They were rippled and coming unglued from the backing board also, which I fixed with gentle heat from a hair dyer to get the vinyl pliable, then DAP Weldwood contact cement to stick them down again, working out the wrinkles as I went. The drivers door card looks almost new now apart from some minor color fading. I can post up some pics if you're interested. |
I definitely intend to pull the panels out and see how well they can be cleaned up and repaired. That would actually make a nice project while the weather is so cold in the garage. Yeah, I'd love to see your pics.
| Rodicus wrote: |
I am thinking of making some new backing boards to replace the couple that are in sad shape - they have cracks and pulled-out clips. Definitely use a trim popper tool to remove them from the car, with gentle pressure on either side of each clip, working your way around one by one. The boards tear easily. Replacing the plastic sheet moisture barriers is a good idea too. I think you can get the "dum dum" sticky butyl stuff from Eastwood to ensure a good seal.
Have fun with the car! |
Good stuff, thanks!
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drscope
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 15273
Location: Baltimore, Maryland USA
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| Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 8:16 am Post subject: |
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Just a thought on your paint, if you use the rubbing compound and polishing compound, both of those products are going to remove paint.
That Nu Finish stuff will also remove paint, as a lot of it ends up on your applicator rag, but you won't get the abrasive scratches in the paint that you get with other polishing type of compounds.
I ain't a paint expert, but I do know that stuff worked really well for us on that old red race car and I'm still impressed with the results today. I don't know if polishing type abrasion is better in the long run or that Nu Finish type of abrasion, but it just seems a little less harsh.
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Mother Nature is a Mean Evil Bitch! |
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obfuscurity
Samba Member
Joined: December 01, 2012
Posts: 320
Location: Westminster, MD, USA
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| Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 5:25 pm Post subject: |
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| drscope wrote: |
Just a thought on your paint, if you use the rubbing compound and polishing compound, both of those products are going to remove paint.
That Nu Finish stuff will also remove paint, as a lot of it ends up on your applicator rag, but you won't get the abrasive scratches in the paint that you get with other polishing type of compounds.
I ain't a paint expert, but I do know that stuff worked really well for us on that old red race car and I'm still impressed with the results today. I don't know if polishing type abrasion is better in the long run or that Nu Finish type of abrasion, but it just seems a little less harsh. |
Indeed. I'm planning to try a small spot on the license plate light housing first and then proceed (or adapt) as necessary. If the combination of rubbing + polishing compounds are too rough I'll try out the Nu Finish product instead.
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obfuscurity
Samba Member
Joined: December 01, 2012
Posts: 320
Location: Westminster, MD, USA
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| Posted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 9:49 pm Post subject: |
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Still waiting for the weather to warm up a bit before I resume work on the fuel line and buffing the paint. In preparation for a "warm front" (highs near 40F) next week I started removing the chrome molding to polish it up a bit and also help clean and buff where the molding is usually mounted. I was surprised to see only one of the clips had the rubber seal in place. Ordered new sets of molding seals, door panel clip seals and a new single-mount chrome antenna from WW.
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drscope
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 15273
Location: Baltimore, Maryland USA
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| Posted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 10:13 am Post subject: |
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BE REALLY careful polishing that trim! Its easy to burn through the chrome! then it looks crappy forever.
You may even want to price replacement sets of trim. Shiney trim really sets things off.
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Mother Nature is a Mean Evil Bitch! |
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obfuscurity
Samba Member
Joined: December 01, 2012
Posts: 320
Location: Westminster, MD, USA
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| Posted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 11:58 am Post subject: |
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| drscope wrote: |
BE REALLY careful polishing that trim! Its easy to burn through the chrome! then it looks crappy forever.
You may even want to price replacement sets of trim. Shiney trim really sets things off. |
I've been using Wenol which so far has been really mild on the trim. I've considered getting a new set because of a few dings but it's low on my list right now. The old trim looks pretty good otherwise.
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mukluk
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Joined: October 18, 2012
Posts: 7028
Location: Clyde, TX
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| Posted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 3:21 pm Post subject: |
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I'd recommend Nu Finish as well, I used it on my old '68 and it did an outstanding job. Before I started the paint had been so oxidized that it almost looked like orange velvet, it was a lot better afterwards. 
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