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HastaAlaska
Samba Member
Joined: November 22, 2012
Posts: 1420
Location: Off Grid
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haashim
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2013
Posts: 1
Location: south africa
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 Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 3:04 am Post subject: more videos |
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| hey Ben when we seeing more videos? |
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webwalker 
Samba Member
Joined: January 26, 2006
Posts: 2803
Location: Mount Laurel, NJ
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| Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 7:12 am Post subject: |
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| HastaAlaska wrote: |
New battery, only 6 months old and the battery tester says it is dead already! HOW? You know this Bus accounts for 75% of my travel budget  |
Ben,
A few days ago you mentioned that you were having frequent problems with your Alternator. Now, two weeks later, you're saying that your recently new battery is kaput. I think I see a 'how', eh?
Using your Bentley, have you tested your Alternator? What was the data you got from the battery tester? Volts? Amps? What type of battery?
If you have been running with the Alternator lamp on for any period of time, leaning heavily on the battery, there may have been damage to the battery.
How far North have you managed to make it? Haven't heard an update in a while, and was starting to worry.
Marshall
_________________
"Consistent maintenance with quality products is the cheapest warranty you'll ever need."
1977 CE1 Transporter Deluxe, Subaru EJ22, Skills Cooling, Steedle HD 091 w/ GuardT .82 4th
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HastaAlaska
Samba Member
Joined: November 22, 2012
Posts: 1420
Location: Off Grid
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| Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 1:49 pm Post subject: |
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| webwalker wrote: |
A few days ago you mentioned that you were having frequent problems with your Alternator. Now, two weeks later, you're saying that your recently new battery is kaput. I think I see a 'how', eh?
Using your Bentley, have you tested your Alternator? What was the data you got from the battery tester? Volts? Amps? What type of battery?
If you have been running with the Alternator lamp on for any period of time, leaning heavily on the battery, there may have been damage to the battery.
How far North have you managed to make it? Haven't heard an update in a while, and was starting to worry.
Marshall |
Well the alternator says it is putting out 14v. I haven't tested how many amps that is. The electro guy here says they earth cable was bad... perhaps the battery wasn't charging well and it got ruined that way?
It was charged on a run from flat (like 11.8v) to 12.6 in a 45 minute drive, then tested and the tester showed it "bad"... i.e the power drained in 20 seconds of using the tester.
Perhaps it wasn't charged properly on this 45 minute run?
I'm still in Oaxaca, thus not much internet and not too many updates. States in August 
PS - NEW EPISODE JUST OUT... http://kombilife.com/guatemala-videos-2/
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Around The World in a VW - Follow the Docuseries
2011 - PRESENT
Hasta Alaska Series - https://kombilife.com/hasta-alaska/
World Overland Series - https://kombilife.com/world-overland-travel-series/
Latest Adventures - https://www.youtube.com/@kombilife |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50347
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| Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 3:08 pm Post subject: |
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Only 12.6 volts after more than a minute or two of running would indicate the battery was not getting much of any voltage-current from the alternator. With the engine running, what voltage do you see when you hook one lead on your meter to the 12+ on the alternator and the other lead to the 12+ terminal on your battery.
Last edited by Wildthings on Thu Jun 19, 2014 5:11 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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webwalker
Samba Member
Joined: January 26, 2006
Posts: 2803
Location: Mount Laurel, NJ
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| Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 4:04 pm Post subject: |
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| Wildthings wrote: |
| 12.6 volts after more than a minute or two of running would indicate the battery was not getting much of any voltage-current from the alternator. With the engine running, what voltage do you see when you hook one lead on your meter to the 12+ on the alternator and the other lead to the 12+ terminal on your battery. |
Beat me to it, WT. Just because the Alternator is putting out 14.5v @ the terminal doesn't mean that is what the battery is seeing at the other end of the cable. I'm going to assume that near Oaxaca, the only battery type available is a Flooded Lead Acid battery (FLA) and that's what you're running, rather than a sealed battery. (FLA have caps that can come off for distilled water inspection & replacement.) Did the electricista check the water level in any of the cells?
Marshall
_________________
"Consistent maintenance with quality products is the cheapest warranty you'll ever need."
1977 CE1 Transporter Deluxe, Subaru EJ22, Skills Cooling, Steedle HD 091 w/ GuardT .82 4th
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HastaAlaska
Samba Member
Joined: November 22, 2012
Posts: 1420
Location: Off Grid
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 10:29 am Post subject: |
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I thought that 12.6vs was a fully charged battery?
well when the the engine was running the alternator terminal produces around 13.2v at idle and 14.0 at some revs that translates to something like 13.6v on the battery terminal.
After the 45 minute drive (with the engine off) the battery had charged up to 12.6v which I had thought was fully charged. But the tester managed to drain that charge pretty quickly indicating that the new battery was now bad.
Thoughts?
PS the battery I have in maintenance free, no place to top up water.
_________________
Around The World in a VW - Follow the Docuseries
2011 - PRESENT
Hasta Alaska Series - https://kombilife.com/hasta-alaska/
World Overland Series - https://kombilife.com/world-overland-travel-series/
Latest Adventures - https://www.youtube.com/@kombilife |
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Danwvw
Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2012
Posts: 8892
Location: Oregon Coast
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 10:35 am Post subject: |
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Yes I think heat and constant use has ruined your battery. Probably was a marginal quality battery. Try a better quality battery.
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths! |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50347
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 11:11 am Post subject: |
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12.6 volts would be what you would expect to see after the battery has been charged for a while and then let sit for 15 minutes or so. What voltage are you seeing at the battery when the engine is still running and has been charging the battery for at least several minutes?
Yes, a badly sulfated battery will show good voltage while being charged or even after sitting of a short while, but then not be able to start the engine. A shorted battery or one with otherwise failing plates will typically not show normal voltage within a very short time after the charge is removed. |
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HastaAlaska
Samba Member
Joined: November 22, 2012
Posts: 1420
Location: Off Grid
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| Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 1:56 pm Post subject: |
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I had to get another battery in the end. I think it set me back about $80 - or about a weeks travel, bloody kombi 
all seems to be well, I'm about to drive as far in the next 3-4 weeks as I have in the past year so FML this is going to be a serious challenge!!!
Wish me luck. See you in the States in August....hopefully
PS - A couple of new episodes have just gone up on the YouTube Channel.
PPS - You guys are already too good to me, but if any of you happened to just win the lottery, feel free to chip in on a tank of gas, lord knows I could use the help
http://www.kombilife.com/how-you-can-help/
_________________
Around The World in a VW - Follow the Docuseries
2011 - PRESENT
Hasta Alaska Series - https://kombilife.com/hasta-alaska/
World Overland Series - https://kombilife.com/world-overland-travel-series/
Latest Adventures - https://www.youtube.com/@kombilife |
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HastaAlaska
Samba Member
Joined: November 22, 2012
Posts: 1420
Location: Off Grid
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soissisc
Samba Member
Joined: April 04, 2007
Posts: 634
Location: Western Pennsylvania
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 10:30 am Post subject: |
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I just bought (2) of these - picked up at the store and mounted balanced at my local shop. They were $95 a piece and $40 to mount / balance both.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Hankook-Radial-RA08-Tire-185R14-8/17792669
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Mark
68 Westy
92 Jetta (oh it is retired)
99 Eurovan
05 NBC
06 Audi A3
72 Westy (I am going to fix it up) |
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webwalker
Samba Member
Joined: January 26, 2006
Posts: 2803
Location: Mount Laurel, NJ
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 10:34 am Post subject: |
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| HastaAlaska wrote: |
| Can anyone give me a rough idea of what 4 new tires for the Bus will cost me in the States? I'm just trying to work out if it is cheaper here in Mexico. |
It depends on what you want:
"The cheapest thing that fits" will save you a little (not a lot) of money.
The tire that is correct for the vehicle will cost a little more, but will get you where you need to go, improve your handling substantially, and last a lot longer.
You are probably running some variation of a 185R14. If I know the life this bus has had, it is probably a passenger tire. The Bus had always used a 'C' rated, commercial tire with a load rated sidewall, much more appropriate the a Bus with a heavy load of people in it. The Hankook tire noted above is an excellent option for a good price that meets those requirements.
M
_________________
"Consistent maintenance with quality products is the cheapest warranty you'll ever need."
1977 CE1 Transporter Deluxe, Subaru EJ22, Skills Cooling, Steedle HD 091 w/ GuardT .82 4th
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moxnix
Samba Member
Joined: September 11, 2003
Posts: 667
Location: Mpls Minn.
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 10:39 am Post subject: |
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$450+/-
If you ever see Minneapolis for some reason - I have a set of near new load rated bias ply bus tires you can have FOC. Would need to be taken off the wide-5 rims and remounted.
Safe travels.
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ron3865
Samba Member
Joined: December 15, 2011
Posts: 152
Location: usa
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 10:43 am Post subject: |
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| Your not going to want to go "cheap" on tires. Just make sure you get some that are L/T rated. Probably cost you in the $125 range. |
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airschooled
Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012
Posts: 12722
Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 11:45 am Post subject: |
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It's awkward to discuss money, but let's face it- we have to. How much do you want to spend? How far do you need to go? How much will be in the snow/mud/sand? I have found the Hankooks to be VERY reliable in mud, decent in snow, and mediocre in sand. They're better aired down if you have a compressor. Of course, the tire sticky tells all this, but it's more concerned with load rating than usage. I might suggest the General Grabbers for you, since we know your fondness for nature vs. urban dwelling. They've been reported better off-pavement.
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Marleybus
Samba Member
Joined: January 05, 2013
Posts: 314
Location: Oro Station, Ontario, Canada
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 2:15 pm Post subject: |
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Ben, I just got 4 General grabbers AT2. They are beefy and great for highways and off road. Cost about 100$ Canadian or about $90 US well worth it and raised the bus about 3 inches from the previous passenger tires.
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1972 VW Westy (Hit by dumptruck)
1963 VW Beetle (RIP)
1974 VW Beetle (RIP)
1981 Vanagon Westfalia (Sold)
1969 VW Beetle Convertible (Wifes)
1977 VW Westy 2.0L FI Chrome Yellow
1978 VW Westy 2.0L FI (Under Restoration)
1973 VW Westy 1.7L Tourist Delivery Orange
Check out my thread!!http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=556709 |
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Cptn. Calzone
Samba Member
Joined: June 27, 2007
Posts: 1855
Location: S>E>Alabama
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 5:23 pm Post subject: tires |
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Having both sets of tires Hankooks on a westy and the Grabbers on my Sc I can personally attest to the ir quality and do agree that the Grabber AT will work better for Ben in his offroad excursions and penchant for surf camping.The Hankooks are excellent on highway and the Grabbers are a bit noisy with the aggressive ytread Cannot go wrong with either set.
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67 912 Porsche Quintilla
67 Single Cab aka my work horse |
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HastaAlaska
Samba Member
Joined: November 22, 2012
Posts: 1420
Location: Off Grid
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 9:44 pm Post subject: |
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Hey guys,
Thanks for all the great info.
I think I have finally found a real VW mecca in Mexico. I am in Acupulco and all the taxis are beetles. VW Parts everywhere. This would have been a good place to do a rebuild.
Had some VW fun today, the exhaust has been backfiring and I noticed that the top bolt to the #4 exhaust was a bit black so I tried to tighten it and it snapped off. I took it to an exhaust specialist because I have no welding equipment and he manged to break the rest of the stud off.
So then I had to find a machine shop which involved me driving around a very busy very hot city with the exhaust half hanging off and no back apron...needless to say I was nervous about the engine overheating!
I managed to convince the machine shop guys that the thread could be repaired without taking out the engine. At first they wouldn't fix it unless I took the head off but I managed to talk them around.
All well and good now though only lost a few hours (not a few months this time  ) and it only cost about $25 for everything.
Heading north tomorrow, brakes spongy as hell, think there is air in the master cylinder... Oh the joys of owning a VW
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Around The World in a VW - Follow the Docuseries
2011 - PRESENT
Hasta Alaska Series - https://kombilife.com/hasta-alaska/
World Overland Series - https://kombilife.com/world-overland-travel-series/
Latest Adventures - https://www.youtube.com/@kombilife |
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airschooled
Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012
Posts: 12722
Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 9:58 pm Post subject: |
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Surely you could find a helper to push the pedal while you bleed the brakes? If you have recently bled the wheel cylinder areas, you could try just bleeding the master cylinder. Many people "bench bleed" them before installing, but frankly that's messy and tricky. Of course, you should probably bleed the wheel cylinders after the MC too. It's easily done in the car with a helper:
| amskeptic wrote: |
| Bleed the master cylinder connection furthest from the booster first. Then you may bleed the line closest to the booster. You will be able to build up pressure more effectively this way. It is very important that your assistant obey you. Nice time for an Authority Power Trip. Your assistant may never release the brake pedal without your express permission. You may never grant express permission to release the brake pedal until you have re-secured your brake line. Sort of goes like this, " pump. . . HOLD. . . . OK, release." While your assistant is slowly and firmly pumping the pedal, the line is closed. When you holler out HOLD, then you crack open the line and allow the fluid to squirt out into a rag while your assistant panics because the pedal is dropping and they release the brake without your permission. Re-Educate Them. Hold means hold. Only when you have the line re-secured can you then OK release. When your fluid soaked wrench falls to the ground before you got the line tight, you can scream, " you better be holding that brake pedal down!" as you fish for it and get the line tightened. Never release the brake pedal with a loose line, it can suck in air. You can hear air in the fluid. It is a unique sound, so go ahead and have a good-size towel around your hand and the line you are working on to mop up as you bleed. The calipers and wheel cylinders, you can be neat with by using a hose and a bottle filled with 1/2" of fluid. Stick the hose down into the fluid and you can see the bubbles you are eradicating. Don't worry about being wasteful, it is a good flush to over-do the bleeding at the wheels. |
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