Pulling the engine to replace cylinder heads

[Ghia Hubby]

What preventative maintenance (PM) should I be prepared for while I have the engine out and the heads off? 1600 DP, dual carbs, but pretty stock.

I'll be doing this at an auto skills center on Ft. Meade in MD and I'd like to have all of my parts/supplies on hand, especially since parts suppliers are mostly west coast so it's time and/or money to get something once I have things torn down.

Anything I should be ready for parts wise or give a good inspection of once I have things pulled? I am experienced with auto mechanics (mostly vintage Land Cruisers) but this will be my first pull of an aircooled engine.

I did a few searches and looked for sticky technical articles but didn't find anything.

TIA for your help!

[Busdriver79]

Try using eVWparts.com......they are in Maryland and sell top shelf items and deliver quickly.....change the clutch when the engine is out.

[early]

i might recommend doing a compression test before pulling the engine out of the bug. that might help you decide the health of engine beforehand.

you might end up re-ringing or replacing pistons & cylinders or more.
_________________
early-
Barnfind westy project
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...highlight=
my 73 sports bug project build
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=497088
Current Projects :
73 Sport Bug - L13M gone now
67 Westfalia
57 oval window ragtop - sold june 2021
61 sedan
68 Corvette Roadster - Small Block, 4 Speed
86 GMC Sierra Classic- 4x4, Shortbed
94 Harley Flstn

[mtdorajohn]

get a seal kit and replace as many seals as you can... pull the push rod tubes, expand them again, clean them and replace the seals on the ends. you can also paint the push rod tubes if they have signs of rust...

[Max Welton]

Sometimes those tubes break when you try to re-expand them. New one are inexpensive. I would just replace them.

Max
_________________
1967 Type-3 Fastback
Under the Knife https://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=151582
Home Stretch https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=767836

[bugguy1967]

Where are you getting the heads from? Do you know how many ccs they have? Changing the compression may be for the worst on your old engine.
Check all chamber ccs and modify them as necessary.

I'd suggest buying new rings, getting the barrels honed, buying pushrod tubes, and a gasket kit.

Along with changing the clutch, remember you must recondition the flywheel. As long as you're taking it off, you might want to check endplay and replace the flywheel seal.
_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[andk5591]

Agreed on pretty much all that is said.

Leakdown test before you pull the heads. Now would be the time for new pistons/cylinders or hone and rings if its needed.

Get yourself a set of stainless pushrod tubes, an Erling (sp?)engine gasket kit (this has all the seals and gaskets you will need except crank seal), quality (German) main crank seal. Don't forget that you need to replace the small O-ring in the flywheel if it has one. And watch the end of the crank so that there arent any burrs or anything on the crank that could pinch and cut the O-ring.

If its been a while since the engine may have been rebuilt or anything, not a bad idea to replace the oil cooler seals. Anytime I didnt do that when I had the shroud off, I ended up having to replace them within a year or two. And speaking of oil cooler, look up "hoover bit" if you have a doghouse oil cooler. If you dont have one, there are places on here that have a drawing so you can make one pretty easily.

Make sure you have a grommet in the front tin for the fuel line. And check the fuel line where it goes through the tin. My neighbor had a really huge gas leak from the fuel line getting worn through. And while you are at it - you should have a grommet for the oil vent that goes through the crank pulley tin (if you have that tube) and it should have a split rubber cap on the end of the tube.

Something else - if there is a bunch of crud somewhere, you probably have an oil leak there.

I guess the bottom line is this is the perfect time to give it a good looking over and fix/replace anything that needs done.
_________________
D-Dubya Manx clone - 63 Short pan,1914.
Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
"John's car" 64 VW woodie - The first ever
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Cindy's daily driver.
Max - 73 standard Beetle hearse project - For sale
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
There's more, but not keeping them...

[mondshine]

Also, check the condition of the rubber seals between the engine tin and the body.
Look at the rear transmission mounts while the engine is out. If they get oil soaked, they can turn to mush.

Good luck, Mondshine

[jlex]

Fun project....
Before I did mine, I made a nifty checklist to make sure I did the job right... Thought you may want to mentally walk yourself through it. Others may want to chime in with additional steps they think you should take...

Checklist: Head Removal & Replacement


· remove oil and thermostat from car before removing engine
· remove carburetor
· place engine on engine stand
· spray nuts w/ PB Blaster
· remove muffler clamps
· remove bottom & top tins
· remove heater boxes & muffler
· remove generator clamp & undo wires to generator
· remove tin screws for shroud
· lift shroud off
· remove valve covers & remove rocker arms
· remove, clean & examine push rods
· keep pushrods in order by cylinder number
· loosen all head stud bolts; check to see if any are pulling out
· pull out heads (may require a rubber hammer to loosen)
· after heads are off, mark cylinders w/ file & mark pistons to match up upon reassembly
· remove air deflectors under the cylinders
· clean & repaint engine tin
· take cylinders off (use rubber hammer)
· check cylinders for unevenness at top & bottom: 220 wet/dry sandpaper
· lap tops of cylinders to heads. mark new heads to match upon reassembly
· examine & clean push rods
· place gaskets on push rod tubes
· examine, clean & oil studs
· clean up shoulder of cylinders & seating area of pistons w/ brake cleaner
· oil inside of cylinders & rings w/ oil/STP prior to reassembly
· check rings: oil ring gap on top; other two rings at 4 - 8 o’clock
· partially reassemble cylinders to pistons using ring compressor; leave enough room for sealant to be applied
· apply sealant to base of cylinders (use Permatex Ultra Gray), then seat them into case; take a quick measurement w/ straight edge to make sure they’re even
· install air deflectors at this time (before pushrod tubes go on)
· align head on studs; insert push rods (oil them first) and push rod tubes (smaller end to heads) Make sure seams of push rod tubes are facing up
· Guide push rod tubes into engine & head when seating head onto cylinders
· Twist tubes to make sure they’re seated
· push heads & cylinders on the rest of the way, then apply sealant (use Permatex Aviation 3H) to head nuts inside valve covers; put on all nuts & washers finger tight
· tighten middle nuts first @7 lbs
· check book for tightening sequence; 15lbs to start; 23 lbs to finish
· place silicone washer over rocker studs, then install rocker arms making sure push rods are seated
· seat rocker arms onto studs at 18 lb torque
· make sure heat riser on intake manifold is clear
· replace intake manifold using new gasket… finger tight only on intake manifold for now
· replace tin
· replace shroud guiding thermostat rod in between cylinders
· replace heater boxes; new gaskets, leaving nuts loose
· replace tin pieces that go on front of cylinders
· place anti-seize on all muffler nuts and hand tighten
· put rings & gaskets on heater pipe before putting muffler on!
· tighten up intake manifold, heater box/head connections, heat risers & muffler connections
· check linkage and spring on back of shroud for proper operation
· put on tin piece that fuel line goes through
· adjust valves to start at .007; adjust to .006 after 300 miles
· insert new spark plugs
· inspect clutch, main seal; put grease on gland nut
· after engine is reinstalled, fill with oil
_________________
jlex.
'70 std. "Elsie"
'88 Carrera

[HRVW]

With all the KNOW IT ALL answers not one person mentioned pulling the rods to inspect the bearings or the rods itself.

Replacing the top end on a high mileage engine is asking for a rod KNOCK in a short time as the bearings already have much wear on them.

Another thing NOT mentioned was to check the flywheel with a heavy duty scrfewdriver for a UP and DOWN movement which would mean WORN Main Bearings anf the top end work would be a TOTAL waste.

I have seen too many engines that the TOP end was done only to fail and end up at my shop for a COMPLETE REBUILD (aliegn bore and all).

(VW mechanic/engine builder/parts house owner of 28yrs)

[Max Welton]

[andk5591]

[Eric&Barb]

Retorque all engine case fasteners just as you would for assembling. Amazing how loose they get.

Agreed, doing a top end rebuild on an old or unknown milage engine is asking for all too soon toasted rod bearings.
Better to do a proper full rebuild. After all if you find out the bottom end is in perfect condition and all it needs is a new set of bearing, then you can drive with the knowledge that all is correct and not just be waiting to get stuck somewhere....
_________________
In Stereo, Where Available!

[jlex]

I did just my heads because of abnormal valve guide wear. The engine had just been rebuilt 3 years prior, so I wasn't concerned about the bottom. Unfortunately, the rebuilder used cheap replacement heads as part of the build. I was able to find new VW single port heads...
_________________
jlex.
'70 std. "Elsie"
'88 Carrera

[Eric&Barb]

As the old saying goes, "It's not the years, but the miles..", three years could be 300 miles or 60,000 miles. Plus of course how hard it is run..... Most anything with more than 30,000 miles even if driven carefully is probably not worth it. On the other hand if it has full flow oil filter then an inspection of the rod bearings will tell all.

Make sure the valve geometry is correct or you can have premature valve guides failure. Halfway through pushing each valve open the valve adjusting screw and valve stem must be parallel. If not you are going to have to either shim the rockers and/or shorter/longer push rods.
_________________
In Stereo, Where Available!

[HRVW]

Just sayin ......if I need Medical advice I speak with a MD and NOT a 1st yr Medical student that lacks the knowledge to practice medicine.

I show my credentials and not what kind of bike I had etc which has zilch to do with a VW.

A.... BA...MA...PHd after a name shows history/background/experience....

as does my signiture that I can back up with proof....just sayin

[Ghia Hubby]

What fantastic and detailed responses. I really appreciate it. Here's what I've done for prep and a little more background:

Prep - I ordered a seal/gasket set and new push rod tubes. I'll also run over to the auto skills center and do a leakdown test and a general inspection. I'm not going to run it over today as it's snowing here. I didn't mention it, but my car (my wife's) is a 1970 Ghia Vert. She bought it in southern CA when she was stationed at Monterey and it then lived in Hawaii for 5 years when she was stationed there. Bottom line - no heat/plumbing is installed. That is on the list to do.

Background - she bought this car from a Navy officer near San Diego who was apprenticing at a VW engine rebuilder shop (that's as much as I know, I never met or talked with him). He had rebuilt the 1600 DP under the eye of the shop. It's always run a little hot and has always had a rough idle. I had a VW guy look at it in Hawaii and he pointed to valves as the issue, thus the new cylinder heads (have L3 heads from aircooled.net ready to install).

The Ghia only has about 700 miles on it in the past 6 years. We lived about 3 miles from work in Hawaii and she didn't drive it on rainy days. Also, I did tons of projects on it - rewired the entire car, new dual carbs (Solex), body work, replaced the rag top... So miles after rebuild isn't the issue, of course the quality of the work on the rebuild itself would be a major unknown.

Thanks again.

[Eric&Barb]

Check that the cooling fan is correct width for dog house cooling system, and that you have all tins and seals for DH. Too thin of fan or any missing tins/seals can cause lots of over heating problem.
_________________
In Stereo, Where Available!

[AirDirect]

Be sure to replace all four oil cooler seals. Cheap and very easy with engine removed.

[Rex lucy]

HRVW is correct. If you want to rebuild again and again keep doing top ends and do nothing about thrust, main bearing and rod bearings. I'm not a vw mechanic but i've owned several ,rebuilt several and have learned some things over the past 40 years. Ole hrvw has probably seen several prople return for lower parts about 3 mos after doing a top end repair. besides if all is in spec the cost of doing the lower end is less than a 100. if its not in spec a person would need to know that too.

cheating your vw is like cheating death . no win